I Think This Engine Is Stuck 

I'll save you guys some time: 1) It's a Cadillac 390 Ca 1960. 2) The trans does not slip off the TC. 3) He primarily wants parts from behind the engine.

I would have pressure washed the whole thing before I started work on an engine like that. Makes life so much easier.

"Great engine, ran when parked, just needs a little TLC. No lowballers"

Are you sure that wasn’t a lost engine from the titanic lol

Send it to mustie1. He'll get it running in 2 maybe 3 videos. Lol

Amazing how clean the heads were inside but that block , omg.

Send it over to Mustie, he'll throw it in the ultrasonic cleaner, he's heating it up now,

I tore down a 1965 industrial 318 polysphere that was abused in an excavator. It looked as bad as that caddy engine, the intake ports were full of rust completely, cylinders were all full of crud as well, 3 bent connecting rods, the machine had sat outside for 30 years.

If that was parked in the 70's then the "silver" you are playing with is lead from the gas. Good times guys, good times.

For a guy who doesn't really understand what all the parts really do it was fun to watch. I'm learnin something the easy way. Thanks for sharing. great that you can salvage some parts of that drive train.

I'm amazed the block wasn't ruined with all the crap in the chambers. Looks like there might have been a broken head gasket on the passenger side. Would be a treat if the cylinder walls were in good enough shape to have the engine rebuilt. Thanks for sharing, have a great weekend.

I have a 58 Cadillac with the 365 v8. Basically same as this, 390. Mine purrs like a kitten, my parents bought it in 1960. Good luck with this .

WOW! That reminds me of my first car, a '52 Chevy 6 cylinder. All 6 of the exhaust valves were eaten away, none would come close to sealing, and the number 1 and number 6 valves were more than half burned away. I replaced all the exhaust valves, reground the intakes, and should have pulled the oil pan and replaced the rings. It still burned a quart of oil about every 50 miles, but at least it ran fairly well, till I blew a rod bearing after going three days without adding oil.

You sir, are determined! I bet beating those pistons out was a REAL chore.

The axe makes me smile! Not actually needed one myself on an engine strip down yet,but never say never!

Rear distributor means it is 1959-62? 1963 and later had distributor at the front. Engine might be salvageable. Depends on whether block is cracked. Crank doesn't look too bad. The block should be fairly thick walled so it might clean up with a large overbore. Those early blocks were built stout, not like the thin wall later stuff.

Put some marvel mystery oil in it she’ll be good as new lol

Just the way you talk , you are a great at what you do, keep up the good work. This is just an observation.

I thought the couple engines I tore down after setting years in the weather were bad but your engine takes the cake for sure. My grandpa always said use a hammer and if that hammer doesnt work you get a bigger hammer lol..... he is right

I like your video's , Motor is toast .

Great video

This guys optimism is god-tier. "A set of new rings and a dingleberry hone 'n she'll be runnin' by the weekend"

The hideousness of that engine will forever haunt my dreams lol

Would it not have been easier to torch the end off the crank?

sweet boat anchor dude hahaha

I have seen blown engines come back to life this one worth it

Good work.

pull bell housing bolts, with crank pins freed and mains removed, lift crank free of the block, now you can get to every bolt.

Thats a damn fine boat anchor ya got there lmao

The Cadillac has a Taurus not a flex plate ! I have done the same thing. The bell housing and Taurus can be used without the transmission to start the engine with after it is rebuilt. Stock they are 325 HP a real nice engines!

I know this video is a little old but a little 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone does wonders

Just a question, couldnt the transmission be unmounted from the block and the converter still attached?

Thr passion of a mechanic is remember when u were younger and u played with ur old pops tools and when u helped ur pops or family loved one help fix the car but u wouldnt know what to do until u knew what was it and fix it ** thats the magiv fixing all this whips *" good buisness will be fix every sold mechanical special car offered on FB or else where and get a prophete

I have been a heavy diesel mechanic for almost sixty years and the first thing that I was taught was to clean it down before starting to dismantle any engine or transmission. I am always pissed off when I see people pulling things apart with grease and shit covering everything, makes the job easier and you can see what you are confronted with.

Although I do not see any chance of this engine running again, I think it would be a cool project to tear it completely down and restore it to running order just to find out what you would have to do to accomplish that. Of course, such a project would be totally impractical from a time and cost point of view. But, still, it would be interesting just to see it done.

The purpose from spare parts is that you can use them when you need too...

That is some hell of a oil leak my car looks the same way except the Caked Up oil is on the exhaust lower engine and firewall!

Will you do a full repair to this engine? I mean machine the cylinders etc.?

Use the tune up in a Bottle stuff, works for me every time

i had a nightmare of a time with a Cadillac 390 a few years ago. stripped a bolt trying to put a thermostat in then broke a bolt off in the head trying pull the cross over tube off so i could fix it, was able to drill and tap it but i told the owner if he wanted me to do any work under the hood on it again it'd be to swap in an LS.

I'm interested to know if that crank could be cleaned and Polish enough to run again lol

I thought it was a amc327/bw12 with that oil filter adapter, valley pan, rear distributor, and rocker arm asembley. Untill I saw the front timing cover

What was all the crap in the cylinder bores? Oxidation?

There's nothing a large enough hammer can't accomplish :)

Yeah I'd agree with your diagnosis

Just unbolt the bell housing and remove the transmission. It will leak transmission fluid but, it can be disassembled without engine rotation.

This video and his voice makes me think of the Red Green show

Cut the crank shaft with Sawzall it had blow head gaskets tryed stop leak is the silver stuff

I run Pennzoil and use Fram filters cause that's what my dad used

Still in a better condition than the ones in all my past cars.

Maybe someone asked before but...why didn't you just undo the bellhousing and lift it out together with the crankshaft once you had disconnected al the rods? It could have saved you two days of hammering.

@10:25 Do not mushroom your tools. The cap is very weak and small bits can fly off at high speed causing injury, especially in the eyes. As soon as the mushrooming starts, grind away the cap to prevent this.

"Oh yeah, it's fine, totally normal" -My car dealer

I wonder if the silver residue is lead deposits.

They really need to make the bastards who design these things work on them and see all the design problems that they create.

THANK YOU FOR VIDEO

but you can bore it out .125, and be like..... "SHE'S REAL FINE MY 409, 409, 409!!!"

preblown done by dumping some stuff down the carb to seize the engine

That motor is done!

evapo rust . would be awe for this project.

Under what dirt pile did you find the engine buried?

i mean, just drop the oil pan and take the main caps and rod caps off, no? or would the guide pins for the transmission not come out? because i would just do that and then of the engine was in fact toast, use a thin cut off wheel to cut the dowels, since they usually are part of the engine, in fact, you could even just cut the crank and only undo the rear cap if you didn't even care about salvaging parts

That's pretty brutal.

1:59 What kind of flashlight mod is that?

Should have just poured a little Marvel Mystery Oil in and run it. 😳 🤣🤣

If you had the crank loose, you could have removed the bell housing bolts and the crank and trans would have been easier to separate.

Oh So nice engine 😂 Thank u gr8 vid

Wow! That is no fun, and a dirty job, but your efforts have paid off. I would replace the front seal if I were you. It is not really that hard at this point. I did many back in the 1970's, and it was something I would always do, if I had to pull one of these. Heavy transmissions....

I only watched to see how you took the pistons out tbh I'm trynna see if I can rebuild my 318 for my truck (it's not in this bad of condition but its stuck)

It's fine Sunday driver only hardly used.

This looks like one of the blocks they use in the rebuild montage videos

You just need to pull the engine and trans, flip them upside down, remove engine oil pan, remove rod nuts and caps, remove crank bearing caps and there you go, you can rotate the crank, you may have to take the trans bolts out and separate it with the crank hanging on but that is alot easier than going through the top of the engine to free it up. LOL I shouldn't have wasted my time, later I see thats what thou didest.

Honestly, that block doesn't look too bad. A can of degreaser, You might be able to salvage it and make some bucks off that as well.

this is what the 360 looks like in my 75 f250 except theres water still in the cylinders

That's a HORRID engine, I do think they blew it up though. It'd be a neat thing if the engine block was salvageable though.

are you sure that wasn't fill pre blown one of the byback cars

That axe handle looks like it is ready to explode too. Be careful with that.

Never seen a caddie 390. Thought it looked weird for a Ford!

Hello. The engine block is very corroded. The engine block will be sandblasted? I'm sorry, I'm using a google translator. Witam. Blok silnika jest bardzo skorodowany. Blok silnika będzie poddany piaskowaniu ? Przepraszam, korzystam z tłumacza google.

What car was it from

I'm pretty sure he could have dropped the block off the crank while it's still in the transmission pulled torque converter bolts and pulled crank from torque converter I could be wrong but it would have been worth a try lol

What ice learned when it comes to spare parts 1 is nun 2 is 1 and 3 is comfort

how bout pressure washing the dirt from it , just for the sake of clean working and useing a vacuumcleaner to clean out the exhaust , the cylinders and the cooling paths

ACE certified in axe assisted transmission removal

I think it’s safe to say the head gaskets were seepin a bit...

That is the grungiest engine I ever seen.

Some degreeser good as new

8:08 Oh how I very much would like to have been there .

This feels like death by a thousand cuts

Good grief, what the heck happened? 😕

Just cram the whole thing in a gallon of Berryman’s Chem Dip....carbon and rust problem solved😉🥴. Wish it was that easy😆

Watch yourself with that punch (steel rod or whatever it is) That mushroomed tip can fly off like a bullet and get lodged under your skin, or worse, take out an eye! My cousin was helping me one time and a piece went into his knee.

Caustic dip and and pressure wash see what your really working with check for cracks in the cylinder walls if so it may be salvageable with a good port and polish and sleveing, looks like tons of calcium build up from water build up you see the same hard scale build up on engines that run just water in the radiator instead of coolant and distilled water.

what did you do to this poor beast???

Just use a little KY it'll get it movin again

Craigslist be like "ran good when last parked, 500 OBO"

STEAM CLEAN before dismantle ... much nicer experience!

I'm pretty sure it's never a good thing when oil pans have high and low tide water marks,that is unless its a marine engine.heh heh. hopefully you'll salvage a good amount of parts. no worries about using it for a mooring anchor, that's for sure. lol! ▪☆☆☆▪

Probably just needs a good tune up.

That's the c4 type transmission . Instead of going through all the trouble of freeing up the engine , you could have easily disconnected the transmission from the block and separated it leaving the torque converter attached to the flex plate , then proceeded removing the converter from the flex plate with very little difficulty , that's if you even wanted to converter in the first place