This is why Jake is my favorite car RU-vidr. All the problems that crop up just doing basic maintenance? Clamps on the wrong way? Finding rigged fixes just to make it work for now? Breaking bolts and struggling for a week to get your daily back on the road? I'd order the parts now but i don't have the money? Yup, yup, yup..... Completely relatable.
I can 100% relate when working on my own stuff, and for family, both cars, and computers/electronics (I have crates of salvaged parts/backups) when you gotta get it back up and running ASAP, and living in a somewhat rural area, waiting on parts to be shipped can be a pain when you need your car to get to work the next day, or your nephew's SSD dies in his laptop at 7pm, and he has a report due the next day. 😅
Most of my repairs ends up being a lot harder than expected, but last month the opposite happended! Changed the voltage regulator on the alternator which i's usually a real hassle, belt off and alternator out. But just this once it was a walk in the park! Swapped the regulator with the alternator still in place! Should've bought a lottery ticket too...
My wife 2006 escape had the same issue with the abs ring. O'Reillys sold a replacement ring for $12, axle was still good. Just had to clean the axle end and heat up the new ring to put it on. Good luck
Nice to see your 100PercentJake continuing, where else am I going to vent my frustrations to all the world and personal problems. Interesting seeing you wheel over a chair. Working in Dentistry, no unlike mechanics, you learn about ergonomics so your back is not aching at 45-50. Great place to bring a BMW for daily repair, Wizard LOVES BMWs
As the owner of a 2011 e90, I can relate, and I've done all these jobs on my car. 1. My rear wheel speed sensor connector box has no cover, either, and I wondered whether that's factory because it's shielded behind the rear fender liner (though in your video there do seem to be locking tabs for a cover) On my front, I did have the cover still but when I opened it, the plastic box was completely packed with sandy road grit, so it didn't do much good and def isn't watertight. 2. My thermostat hose was definitely factory and was installed with the clamp screw facing up like you wish you found yours. That makes me think your water pump may have been done already (because when reinstalling that hose after water pump/tstat replacement, you'd be working from below and orienting the clamp that way would be easiest). The water pump has is a round manfacture date code with arrows stamped into the aluminum housing. (this video shows how to find it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4v1HeHRA6_U.html) Find that date code and see whether it's in line with the manufacture date of your car or years later, which would buy you some time. As you said, the pumps suddenly fail electronically, so there's going to be no visual sign that failure is imminent. But I bet yours has been done once. If you really are on the original pump, I'd replace pre-emptively (along with thermostat, which is all the same assembly/disassembly). Of course FCP Euro has OE parts for semi-reasonable price. Also, can you come over and give me a hand with my radiator (which I've had new on the shelf in the garage for a year and will probably install once the plastic tank to the upper hose breaks 200 miles from home)?
What? Tyler hiding from us? And you should already know those cars are always "thirsty' in one way, shape, or form. Be glad it's just washer fluid by the gallon here. Was wondering why you didn't have the lift up more when you were under it, bending to unbolt undercarriage covers? 100% lol. Enjoyed it as usual.
If you go to flash the FRM in your car, make sure you have good battery voltage and keep the car hooked up to a good charger. I think people recommend against using battery tenders for this, saying that they aren't strong enough to maintain voltage when coding. I managed to corrupt mine just by clearing codes with low battery voltage, though, so if you're going to be messing with the module itself I'd recommend being very careful. If it does get corrupted, the windows won't work and the headlights will be stuck in DRL with no turn signals (not a problem on a BMW, I know lol), or brake lights.
These are extremely fragile. Most scan tools say "DO NOT CODE FRM" as they brick so easily. My e90 had to have the FRM replaced at 95K miles, and my 2011 Mini Cooper S just had to have it at 116K just from having the battery disconnected and reconnected for a clutch replacement. So I'd try everything except coding the FRM first.
Nice clean engine bay for sure! Not sure if your gen is susceptible like my F15, - the orange washer fluid caused my washer fluid level sensor to fail. (coffee pot cleaner poured in for 30 minutes solves the error)
I've been looking for something similar in the UK and they are crazy expensive and mostly poorly serviced or abused / ruined by our weather + road salt! I still want one though!
At 10:28 you can see Mrs Wizard's BMW Z3 up on the lift with the hood up and the front wheels off, just wondering what Mr Wizard will be saying about that, will have to check both of their channels. The issue I had with my 2001 BMW X5 was that the left rear brake light would not work even after replacing the globes light housing and everything else to do with it, so I ran a wire across from the right light under the tailgate and it works fine now but I get an error message that my brake lights don't work every time it is started.
Jake and Tyler: where I live, 3 series BMWs of that vintage can sometimes still be found with pretty low miles and even occasionally with “SULEV” warranties which are still in effect. But they’re pretty much all automatics. Are these “just cars” (which will be more expensive/annoying to maintain than Accords, Camrys, etc.), or do they still have qualities that make them worth considering?
BMWs are (were?) made with higher tolerances than an Accord or Camry and are thus less tolerant of parts wearing out, and when they wear out it is far more apparent. Autos also have their own special quirks. For someone wanting "an car", I always push for Camry, Civic, Corolla or 4cyl Accord. For a dash of spice, used Civic Sis are always a bundle of fun and typically don't have any real reliability pitfalls that I am aware of.
Like Jake, I consider my n52 e9X (e90 in my case) the best car (of many) I've ever owned. And weirdly, that's after eight years of driving the 5 series of this same generation. With good tires and fresh struts and generally sorted, the feel of the car just going down the road to drop my daughter at daycare is really something special (smooth, abundant power delivered to the rear wheels, precise steering with just the right amount of feedback, communicative suspension). So yeah, when its dialed in, you're getting a drive that's much more special than a Camry (which my wife drives, which is a great transportation appliance but feels vague, floaty and shrill). Therefore all the extra BMW things are totally worth it to me (but wouldn't be to her).
Jake, it's a BMW, nothing is easy on there cars. But they sure look nice. Great you can use the Wizard's shop when needed. Happy Halloween. How's the Corvette doing?
Somehow when cars are ten years old owners seem to believe basic maintenance isn't required anymore. Hence all the comments about European cars are junk...
@@100PercentJake I see your point... 😄 My '98 Volvo was pretty happy when I bought it. Or so I thought until I checked the spark plugs. They were beyond bad, all five were rusty, still the car ran fine. Or at least acceptable... With new plugs the car ran great! A new car wouldn't even start.
@@allworldmusic8270 My old Volvo has never failed me, but that's probably thanks to me being very serious about maintenance. Older cars need a little bit more TLC, no surprise really. Wear and age removes all the tolerances they had as new.
It's very common in VW's to have that same problem when the rear wheel bearing starts going out. Mine didn't have play, but it was starting to chew into the sensor as it seemed to have "settled" over time. I understand that's apples and porcupines, but the design is similar.
Hello Jake I like your videos and things you do. I have a question for you. I have a 2008 Ford expedition with a 5.4 . It has the death rattle after it warms up. I know it needs the timing chain guides to be replaced. But after you take off and drive, the motor runs like raped ape. I was wondering if you would replace the timing chain. The motor has 345,365 miles on it
This is why lights should NOT be controlled by a computer. After all, Citroen had swivel headlamps 60 years ago with no computer. Ford had automatic headlamps in the 70s. GM had auto highbeams in the 50s, and again no computer. The big issue with all these new cars is that Bosch is following the wrong KISS rule. They are keeping it stupid.
10,000 miles is WAAAAAAYYYY too much on one batch of engine oil. Rub the old oil between your fingertips and feel the lube properties...there are NONE left!. Now rub the new oil between your fingertips...ooooh...it feels MUCH more slippery and lube-like. Simple test.
Blackstone has plenty of oil analysis data on N52 engines that proves that a 10-15k mile oil change interval (BMWs recommendation is 15-18k miles) is perfectly fine. Many people with 200k+ miles on their engines with 10k oil changes, some people stretch it to 20k with no issues. Quality oil and good maintenance habits for the win; it's not the 70s any more.
You'll feel a difference between brand new oil fresh out of the can and after 1000 miles too. Doesn't mean the lubrication and cooling quality has deteriorated beyond the specifications. 10000 miles/16000 km's is not a problem with modern engine oil in a healthy modern engine.
I'm commenting way too much on this thread, but yeah, I did Blackstone oil analyses on my e60 N52 after ~13K intervals (which I owned from 55K-155K) and still had plenty of oil life left every time (and I sold it because of exterior cosmetic issues; engine was just fine). And they didn't just rub it between their fingers there in the lab. You do have to use the Euro LL-01/04 actual full synth stuff for these longer intervals, though.
I don't get all the hate for BMW mechanical things generally. Yes, the later M cars have main and rod bearings that should be good for the life of the car (most of them probably are okay with proper maintenance and 5W-40 or 5W-50 instead of the stool-water "long-life" 5w-20 california-spec emissions-masturbation "oil") that don't last the way the probably should. The big thing with newer (Bangle-butt and up, so, okay, 20 years ago and newer) BMWs here in Europe at least is mostly electronics modules going bad. BMW does dig their own grave when it comes to reputation and being too expensive because they REFUSE to price their electronics and other unique spare-parts reasonably. Maintenance stuff is actually no more expensive than other brands generally, unless it's for M cars or similar. They really do shoot themselves in the foot with keeping spare parts expensive... It hurts to see where the fuck BMW have placed themselves. Yeah, i get it, it was expensive to engineer that particular BCM or any other electronics module in 2004, but it's 2023 and that module is now $29.39 plus shipping and sales tax for you and you'd make money selling it for $59.99. People love your cars and you'd have a HELL of a lot more actual enthusiasts wanting to buy your NEW stuff in 10 years when they remember how it was actually a good time loving your old cars, even though they require some actual love and attention.
It's just sad... E32, E34, E36, E38, E39, E46 were all SOLID platforms with mostly VERY reliable engineering. Yes, the more exotic versions were way more expensive and complicated to maintain and repair, but the six-cylinder versions were generally SOLID. Even the M60 V8s very VERY reliable as long as you adressed the slight tendency of oil-pump bolts to loosen over time. Even that was a high-mileage thing. OKAY, YES, in North America and wherever else used high-sulfur corrosive gasoline there were big issues with the NiCaSiL-cylinder liners in the M60 V8s, but MAN was that a long time ago. AFAIK that was something BMW took care of, although grudgingly, but that was the early 90s ffs.
Impressed you've gone 20K without any real problems. Shows you're good at picking them. As to tempting fate, not sure the axles aren't the answer to that missive.
