One thing you guys forgot to mention was that you'll lose your brake light functionality and the motor cut out. I know a lot of people hate the latter. But there's a number of us who have street versions and would like to keep the stock brake light functionality.
You can add the sensor back easily by just zip tying it onto handle and a magnet where the brake lever depresses and you now have working brake light and motor cut out again and takes less than 2 min I’ve done it to my trps and regen throttle
I use the bronze mavens! The difference is the adjustment. The power is the same across the levels, but some titanium in the ultimate. Huge recommend 🙂
Amazing video, thanks guys! I'm still running stock brakes on my Sting R and I really need an upgrade. I will choose between Sram Maven and the Trp DHR Evo. However, in Europe where I live, Hope Tech has great reputation so it's not easy to choose
I loved the video although I don't think I'm to a point "yet" where I want to upgrade my brakes, however I have a question I am hoping you can help me with. I have an E-ride Pro SS and my front brake line got a little kink in it at the spot where it is zip tied to the fork protector from the factory. I thought it was a good spot and also added my own zip ties and thought I was good. Now after the getting the kink, the front brake slips a little and also is not consistent, meaning I can pull it 3 times and it'll apply stopping power 1/3 times. I think one or more pistons may be sticking, since when braking force is pplkied, it lingers after I let go of the brake lever. My actual question is what type of brake line or hose do I need to replace it? I know it's probably covered under warranty but I don't think it'd be a hard fix, plus replacements are on backorder through e-ride, I already have a bleed kit, I just have no idea what to search for, my lever is fine, the disc and caliper is fine, I just need to replace the hose/line. Any help would be much appreciated!
Awesome video guys! But I was just wandering if you could do a in depth headlight install on the Talaria XXX. I really want the s2 Pro but I’m 15 and not certified for any installment for a headlight I would have to cut wire and connect. Please consider this and keep up the content.
I’m 14 and have never dealt with anything electrical other than a few small solders. all you have to do is connect the wires and twist them not even solder/crimp. there is many diagrams on fb and the s2 comes with a diagram you’ll be able to figure it out.
@talariaboys Hey guys was curious what should i do I bought the heavy Hitter conversion kit with rotor the p32 brembos and magura 167 can you tell me how this compares as I'm not supercrazy driver but would like better than stock do you recommend i sell my set ang get one of these? Also i have a talaria mx4 i do mostly lighter riding but i do hit hills small jumps etc but in any case can you guys tell me your experience with the ones i bought if you have any. Also dos this affects the regen? No right since that's built into motor? I sorry for dumb questions send thanks
Love your videos keep up the good work on my last comment you suggested that I should get a e ride pro ss and I will can you tell me the best upgrades not money limit I also have a 3d printer can you suggest some stuff that I could print
Hey guys was curious what should i do I bought the heavy Hitter conversion kit with rotor the p32 brembos and magura 167 can you tell me how this compares as I'm not supercrazy driver but would like better than stock do you recommend i sell my set ang get one of these? Also i have a talaria mx4 i do mostly lighter riding but i do hit hills small jumps etc but in any case can you guys tell me your experience with the ones i bought if you have any. Also dos this affects the regen? No right since that's built into motor? I sorry for dumb questions send thanks
Another awesome video. Thank you for the infjim. Then the next video I would like you guys to do is a headlight test cause I'm thinking of buying a new headlight. I want the best one I do a lot of single track trails in thick trees at night. I need to see. Thanks guys rob from vancouver canada❤
It was the first upgrade on my MX4, I went with the warp 9 high output headlight. I had to order it from the USA (I'm in ontario canaduh), but I absolutely love it. The stock dual lens is perfect, one is long distance away, and one is short and wide. Combined its just a really great and full illumination. The "off" setting is this blue pilot glow, this is subtlety visible but doesn't "shine" at all. Its very slick. And best of all is just the shape and aesthetic of it. Its very similar in size to the stock light. I prefer its size and shape over the gritshift blinder or whatever. I never see anyone with this headlight (maybe its new?) but the boys got it on their bikes in this video. I just bought it on a whim hoping I would like it, and I honestly love it. My first warp 9 purchase and its a definite winner.
Man, I’m surprised we don’t have some sort of electrical brake. Like regen but dump the power into a resister. Also, been meaning to ask you what position you run the pegs in an eride Pro SS? I’m about your height and I feel like I want them fully forward.
The Volar Sport kit brings 3mm thick floating rotors, thats why its more expensive... The other kits are just rotors (is that correct?)... Besides the price its more than just "moto stye brakes". They are the only purpose build brakes for these bikes (130lb vs 30lb MTB). They are the only brake that does not overheat when ridden hard... If you have an upgraded bike and ride/brake hard all the other brakes will fail/fade.
What brakes would you guys recommend for all around riding (a bit more trail style riding through woods) for an ERIDE PRO SS? seems like a lot of comparability issues on my bike
I’d get the TRP DHR Evo for the E ride pro, that’s what we ended up putting on our hike after that video was filmed when we took the Lewis tech off. And I am loving them!
I think the Hope Tech4 V4’s are a little under represented in this review just simply because they don’t have much time on the brakes but a few key points. They can use a 220mmx3.3mm vented rotor, they can be had with braided lines, they can run upgraded DOT 5.1 fluid, and they have multiple brake pad variations. I think they are the best of the best when talking about mtb brakes.
With the Lewis LH4s, could the brake line be expanding? Do you have a braided cable you can switch out to test? I can't think of what else would allow that to happen. There's no leaking oil, no air in the line, that fluid is going somewhere. Maybe the lines are just junk??
@@Austinpattyy Hmmm... I wonder what is going on with their set. It's good to know that you have some good ones, especially if they stand behind their product and replace any with their issues. I'm just really curious about what is happening. There's gotta be some movement in there somewhere.
@@BrassStacks It's as @sunspot-19 said above: the fluid is bypassing. When you don't have external leaks but the lever keeps coming to the bar (and it's not due to air) then the fluid inside the master cylinder is leaking past the compression piston back into the reservoir. Basically the seal on the end of the piston isn't doing it's job, either due to a fault in the seal or due to excessive tolerances between the seal and its bore.
@@Talariaboys Thanks for the videos. Yes please do a install vid using two rear mavens, seems likely you will have to cut the hose for the front to fit and maybe bleed them ?? Do the break levers have the emblem on BOTH side ?? Thanks again
Group question please.. Has anyone replaced front and rear wheel hub bearings, Do we need to ? and what did you find to be the best if so ... Thanks all
You should replace them if your wheels have play or slop back and forth when your axles are all the way tight. We sell them at our online store and have a old video from our channel installing them. Ill link both below,ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rArpImSmSag.html tbelectricmoto.com/products/dirtybike-bearing-kit-front-wheel-surron-lbx-talaria-sting?_pos=1&_sid=3359fc4c2&_ss=r tbelectricmoto.com/products/dirtybike-bearing-kit-rear-wheel-surron-lbx-talaria-sting?_pos=3&_sid=3359fc4c2&_ss=r
Hey man if you haven't bought a battery yet we don't recommend the EBMX or Ewatt batteries if you are using the TC1000, Torp just released a statement that for now they are not compatible together, we helped them realize this as we were having lots of issues. They will get it fixed but it will take time. If you have already ordered one shoot us an email to support@tbelectricmoto.com and we will help you figure out what is best
Please review a Gucci Surron vs stock Landmoto Ohio made E-Moto. You can register with the DOT. Rip it off road too, I would love to see it. Kitted out online it was 9k and that seems fair given all these Gucci Surrons are typically ~10k. Relevancy: it comes with Moto style breaks instead of dinky bike breaks and you wont need to upgrade it. Edit: I understand that these cycle style ebikes are lighter and can have some advantages in that regard. The Landmoto weighs over 200lbs so I do understand it won't be as "nimble" but I would still be extremely curious.
One thing I feel it wasn’t touched on is with the volar sport you get thick rotors not you have to have or use the rotors because that’s an advantage not running thin rotors. They are going to be coming out with a rotor for the rear that’s 228mm and Works with the older warp nine wheels, warp nine now has dual drilled hubs So you can run the rear surron rotors. Also, if you add rotors and brackets to every single one of those other brakes set ups, and then compare the braking to the volar sport nothing can compare. And you’re not much off on price. Pub the pivot point on the lever will stop the squeak
The issue with Hayes Dominions is not that they are made for 1.8mm rotors. Hayes D Series rotors (their latest made for use with the Dominion) are 1.95mm. I even have Dominions working o.k. on my XXX with 2.3mm rotors. The problem is that the Dominions have a very high hydraulic ratio (size difference between the master cylinder piston and the caliper pistons, the bigger the difference the greater the ratio). This means that it takes a lot of pull to move the pistons, and hence pad clearance is minimal. Therefore, the same minimal pad clearance issue exists even with mtb rotors that are thinner. Which I experienced on my mtb running 2mm rotors when I had the Dominions on there before I transferred them to the XXX. Again, the issue is not the rotor thickness. Yes, the Dominions are not going to work with rotors thicker than 2.3mm, so there's that. Besides the minimal pad clearance another issue with the Dominions is that they come with a tiny 1-finger lever. They're strong but could be a lot stronger with a better lever that gives a greater mechanical ratio. As it is, they work great for mountain bikes, but they are dainty for emotos.
Hey, I ordered a talaria xxx throttle extension from you and plugged it in and I’m just getting error code 37… I’ve unplugged it and plugged it back in made sure it was lined up and still same thing…
Edit: so I just watched your install video and I’m gonna try and cut a little slit opposite the arrow and push it in farther because I might not have pushed it in enough
So glad i got my Lewis tech early only spend 400 for the set and they work awsome wonder why yours suck that’s too bad haven’t had any heat issues and was able to get hope e4 pads work great on them
Is it because the EP8 and EP6 come with resin pads? If you own the smaller Lewis EP4/LH4 caliper, it probably came with good sintered/metallic pads, slightly better than the ones that come with stock Surron brakes (Shiamno H03C is a good example to good pads that people upgraded to) most Surron owners eventually realize this and they tend to use only the best pads with their Maguras/Hope/Trps/stock brakes/whatever they're using. This could explain the difference and the problem he described in the video. Example: The difference between Magura 8.S (sport) pads and Magura 8.P (performance) pads is YOU hitting a car or not. The sport pads can lock the rotor and the performance pads just slide around the rotor no matter how hard you press when the force of the bike going forward exceeds the grip of the pads (when you brake hard) So, the most important thing for Surrons is to use the right brake pad that can bite/grip the rotor the most, the more you press your brakes.
Please, please please keep a recommending full face helmet to kids. You guys provide some of the best information on the Internet regarding bikes like this. And I love it. But all the kids out there look up to you guys so much . I guess it’s not your responsibility to push these things. But the kids look up to you. Start pushing more full face helmets for every child on a dirtbike or even a regular electric bike Make sure they know that gloves with sliders are important Keep up the good work I love the content
I crashed head first into a wash wall at 15MPH on my MX3 after the stock brakes had faded and if I hadn't been wearing a Klim F3 full-face, I'd still be in the hospital with a wired jaw and broken neck.
Lewis brake may have a fault in the MC. Sounds like it is bypassing. That leads to a slow drop of the lever til you run out of lever. I am amazed that bicycle brakes are up to the task of stopping these E Moto's effectively and safely.
Ya they have issues that's for sure! These bicycle brakes are pretty much too powerful for mountain bikes, I came from that type of riding and never had brakes this powerful and never even came close to wanting them even riding hard downhil and enduro trails on long travel bikes.
@@Talariaboys Towing package brakes aren't for everyone! Being from a trials background, the saying goes, if the brakes don't throw you through the windshield, they simply don't work.
Have u guys ever gotten introubled driving the talarias I was recently given and impound warning riding my talaria on the road and the cop said that if he ever caught me again he would impound it ever happened to u guys are cops in Utah getting stricter?
Have any of you guys ridden an ultra bee? The brakes on that thing are amazing and it cost about $80 for a caliper. Now I would spend $500 for front AND rear brakes that stopped like Ultra bee brakes. Well, the market charging $1,000 for an equivalent brake system is ridiculous, the real crime here is the fact that these bikes have the shittiest stock braking system ever.
I watched the channel non-stop last month, I wanted so so much to buy a Surron. Today I went to a testing camp to test one. Right after 5 minutes I slipped on wet grass. My knee is out, surgery coming, 5 months of bed and therapy estimated. Good luck you boys, hope you will not loose your arms, feet or worse. These are NOT toys. Praying for your safety 🙏
Actually lots of people are spending $500 on something that could save their life and stops them going 50 plus mph. Sorry the deeps weren’t on the list, we haven’t reviewed them and don’t really take the budget route on brakes.
Spending $500+ on brakes is mind boggling if you consider that you can buy motorcycle brakes for much less. Hopefully someone comes up with a way to mount light weight moto brakes to these bikes, the mountain bike brake market is out of control lol.
