@@ChemTrailSkate Definitely requires a different form / stance. Even some of the better freeriders here struggle to not highside when they first jump on my weighted board.
This video told me NOTHING about the weight. And the few things you said don't make any sense. If the weight is in the middle it's doing NOTHING to pull you back to center. It would have to be on the other side or it wouldn't pull the other way, if anythign if it's tilted one way the center of gravity is on the side you're leaning to, not the other side. You're really bad at this.
Saw this video yesterday. Put a 3lbs weight on my board today. Can't wait to try it out. If I don't like it, it's an $8 harbor freight hammer. No biggie.
Interesting experience, been curious about weights as well. The new Zealous trucks have a recessed kingpin, which gives a ton of clearance for small wheels as well. It also servers as a soft stop to lock out slides on. So you can add them to the small list of slalom trucks you can run smaller wheels on.
I skate 130 valks at 45/20 on a 21” wb with no weight and can slide alphas standup without much difficulty. I think the weight can help but isn’t necessary for that kind of “small board free riding”, just gotta lean into it and get used to the grip. But valks are definitely not the grippiest of the skinny-ish precisions so that’s something to think about as well.
Yeah I feel like trucks have more of an effect on the set up than a weight does and it also mostly comes down to the style/form of your skating like you said.
I think my weight is super helpful on my setup (2.5lb,135-145 cast ronins, 20in wb). I find it helps with slide initiation since the trucks are so leany, I can kinda just twist with my hips instead of having to load the rails and max out the lean of the truck. This also give me more control of my slide angle.
@@ChemTrailSkate 45°/35°, 92/94 in the front and 94/98 in the back(shr). I'm always running a 1/4" riser in the back to kinda enhance the directional feel.
@@tyson_J I suppose your hangerwidth a little closer or over 150mm? just because I weigh 140-145lb & on my cRonin I run 93/93 icectea rear 25° & 88/90 up front on 47.5° plate. The weight made me loosen the KP nut a turn up front ... maybe personal preference but seems a little high duro on front for a weight ( just reread you've got 1/4" risers= leverage probably means you can ride firmer up front, my bad . I have 1/16" soft Loaded riserpad mostly for vibration control on mine)
top video topic ( I am at same exp, added scuba 2lb to my smol racesetup last week!) , boss AF hoodie & I wanted to add; those robot trucks ( 'been 👀 their IG profile) are dank. That's the exact spec widths I got RT to chop my cRonin katana hangers to & it's a great spec . keep the pertinent content comin, mate 👊🏻💛🛹💨
Love this vid, and now got to give this weighted board thing a try. Also, the challenge accepted to find more ground clearance for that rear as I have had a few ideas floating around as more clearance is always a good thing.
The trucks feel great for what they are actually designed to do. It would interesting to compare the ground clearance between them and other "normal" geometry 20 plates.
great vid man! i skate 125mm valks on a 18inch wheelbase and a 9.12 inch wide deck and honetly it feels amazing! 45/15 splite on the trucks, some times a 30 to core wheels. i have a 1.5kg weight and love it! i recon it just makes my board slide like a big board.
The largest difference I found in adding a weight to my setup was that it was more forgiving when holding out slides. I think the position of the center of mass is really important, I have a 3lb hammer head under my deck. The center of mass of that is much lower than your weights would have. This would give the weight more of an impact on the lean as it has more leverage. I have heard placement of the weight fore and aft on your board is important, farther forwards should feel more sharp like how you are describing it (like a race board), whereas farther back helps to counteract the center of turning being really far forwards on big splits when you kick out slides. I am not sure how much I personally feel that though. My main takeaway from adding a weight is that the wheels are much less prone to highsiding me on uneven pavement. It gave me a lot of confidence in holding out longer faster slides on my board, especially toesides. So I guess I have the opposite experience to you. I found it greatly reduced the lippyness of my setup. The extra momentum of the weight just carries the wheels over chunder as opposed to having them dig in on you.
I am running 130-140 mk3 slalom valks on a rayne mitty pro. With the weight I can happily freeride, without it is much harder, especially with softer bushings. Soft bushings for going fast and tuck leaning, harder for freeride. Just seems to work better.
Super insightful thanks! This deck felt great for gripping corners or taking race drift style lines with soft bushing. It sounds like I need to try harder bushings if I want to freeride a set up like this and adjust my form to suit the style. Something to consider next time I try it.
this has been my complete experience w 2lbs slung under my front heel on a 32x9x22"wb setup on 47.5°|20° split. My race wheels became able to slide wheels ,mostly.
Did you try taking the weight off the new board so you only change one variable? In the video it sounds like you just set up a brand new board with weights and compared it to an old setup. If that's what you did then it's too many changes all at once to tell what the weights were actually doing.
@@ChemTrailSkate if you only tried those hardware washers you probably only added like 1lb total which isn't that much. I recently tried coated dive weights which are lead and the feeling was immediately noticeable. The board felt like it had more road dampening to it. Depending on how far back the weight was - on/behind my heel vs more underfoot - made a notable difference. Further back felt nicer mid slide, like there was less chunder on the road but kickouts were too easy . Closer to underfoot felt like the board carved with more stability. Not quite like going from cast to precisions but the carve def felt smoother and less jerky. You should try 2-4lb at the very least. Also lower the weight closer to the ground so it opposes your input more by swinging further in the opposite direction of your lean. It's part of the reason why turns feel smoother. If your board is feeling more responsive then the weight is too high up and it increases your center of gravity vs lowering it. This can just add to your speed wobbles vs reduce it if the weight is lower than your pivot cup. Weights done properly are supposed to make twitchy smol bords feel more manageable. I don't fully know the physics of it, just echoing my findings and teachings of a local weight board specialist. Hope you go back and try it again. It's fun to experiment just wish I could mod my setup faster on the hill.
Not sure? If the weight effects turning/center point that would probably feel a lil different but if its mainly just for grip/slideyness it might not make a difference. Would be interesting to try.
Amazing insights considering the variables. It really made sense. I think Skoot Mano uses weights who as you know holds out toesides at speed like he’s not actually human. I’d be really interested in your next video on this especially since Rocket has weights now. If you could add weights to your race board and see if you can hold out the slides longer - I dunno I guess I’m saying to limit the variables. Love your videos bru.
Yeah I want to revisit this soon (once I have the time) and I think using a familiar set up and just adding weight to start with would be more practical to figuring out more
