I Tried Running a 3950X and RTX 2080 Ti on a 450 WATT Power Supply... 

Yesterday's video wasn't working on some peoples high end phones :(

@@techyescity, yeah I didn't get sound on your ninja mouse video....

@@techyescity Bloody RU-vid! I say try a Xeon. It solves everything.

Yes... but can run crysis on your potato?

Tech YES City I can’t watch it on my ipad

Lol

I guess but if u win that u better work ur ass off to buy a decent motheboard an PSU. Or just sell them n get some money .n make a build u can actually take advantage off

Lmao

@@NeVErseeNMeLikEDis sell 3950X for 700$, sell RTX 2080 ti for 1000$ build a 3700X + 2080 Super + B450 Tomahawk + RM650X + 16GB 3600/CL16 + 1TB SSD + 1440p/144hz monitor with that money

i can relate lmao XD

sadly its the truth, for some reason f1 games have this bad habit of crashing for no reason

When I play in fullscreen I have crashes, but when I play in window mode I don't have any problem.

if i put my 4gb evga 10150ti in nvidia controle panel on balance mode, wy csgo is crashing, if i change it, csgo works fine.

Codemasters are shit. I gave up with their games.

i just made a account for eve online online and the game runs bad with full screen mode and fast with windowed mode and its the only game i know that does that

Yeah but if you wanna upgrade future GPUs are gonna use more power. Especially if you wanna do Nvidia cards in the future the 4080 and 4090 use at least 500-666W at normal use. Not saying you want those GPUs but since the PSU is gonna last longer than a lot of your PC Parts you can save money over time paying more for a high wattage PSU. I was using my 750W PSU for 7 years before upgrading my monitor and GPU. I noticed that I was getting random restarts and crashes and just changed to my 1000W PSU and it’s a lot better than I thought. I will soon be grabbing a 1200W PSU for a separate server build

Even just in career or gp this happens, on a ryzen 7 3700x and rtx 2060 with 650w like low settings its stupid lmao

I second this.

PUBG: Hold My CTD

Yeah that's right i have f1 2015 and it has the same problem xd when i run 2019 its the same

Comanso he should retest with other game

BREAKING

He attempted to make an impossible experiment and his Power supply just blew up.

She Blinded Me, ...WITH SCIENCE!! Thomas Dolby LIVES!

@@dropdead234 Thomas Dolby does live. He is currently 61.

@@Safetytrousers Went right over your head, didn't it?

huh

Hold my watts

Yes you can but should you?

@Nuno Filipe i am running a 2060 super+ 3600 on 450w.

That doesn't make any sense. Try again...

I wish that were always true, but it isnt. Quality PSUs are rated continuous, and can generally far exceed their rating, cheap PSUs are often just rated max

It's true they're usually rated to work up to 110% DC output wattage before OPP shut down. During all this, it would draw a lot more than 450W from the wall due to the way efficiency is calculated (450W DCout @ 90% Eff = 500W at the wall). But that's also only its maximum rated output within a very narrow temperature range. Once they exceed say 40°C (for my PSU at least) operating temperature, output capability starts to drop, making 500W peak a risky thing yet again. There's a lot of factors to consider if you're approaching the limits of your unit.

@@lejac4916 There's the reason I forgot for why you need a fair bit of headroom. You need to be certain for the entire range of temps and humidity it will be exposed to.

My HX1200i passed over 1350w on 12v output for over 24 hour test (fans barely had to spin at 400-600 rpm, silent, not even warm while running out of spec like this and running 90% efficient. Wall power was obviously higher at 1550w) My SuperNova 1300 can push a bit higher (never OCP yet even on estimated 1.5kw output), but it’s loud even at idle and blows realistically hot (not like some, but it’s pushing some heat at full and above rated spec loads). The good ones exceed specs, the cheap ones like Rosewill blow up your SSD and won’t replace it (1000w Hive blew up at 830w wall power, so like 700w output max ever). I’ve also popped OCP on their Glacier 1000 at 630w (so like 500w output), and the cables are thin and crappy aluminum (you can tell which cable is to what set by picking it up, same gauge but apparently the copper weighs twice as much on premium units). I’ve also blown another but it was near spec for a couple years and failed softly just dieing out gradually and safe (no $250 SSD fried on it, so no complaints). Also note the SuperNova 1300 (fully modular and exceeds spec) was like $25 more than the crappy Rosewill Hive (semi-modular, epic fail and parts blown below 70% spec). So I wouldn’t call the Rosewill cheap, they are right next to the high end super high power models, you don’t get what you pay for on that Rosewill brand!

also dont forget they're only efficient up to a percentage of that number. IE. bronze-plat rating

time for gigawatt PSU

I bought a hp elitedesk and the oem psu in it is 80+ platinum

Already tripped the aliexpress banger lol.

Tech YES City bruh good luck with that lmaoo

@@techyescity 450W, 80 minus wood certified

Make sure it doesn't come with the certain recent virus

IT IS a sexual Thing for Sure.

1000w? No, but I'd say 850 watt is probably the sweet spot for a high-end single-GPU system that might see some overclocking. There are two areas you need to look at when sizing a GPU. First is your expected worst-case power draw (with some headroom to make sure you're not redlining it, which this video never did as the GPU and CPU were never stressed simultaneously), but the second is the noise and efficiency curves of a PSU. Power supplies are rarely at their most efficient when they're pushed to their limits, and a 600 watt load on an 850 watt power supply will probably be quite a lot quieter than a 600 watt load on a 650 watt power supply. Good power supply vendors will publish both the efficiency and noise curves for their power supplies, letting you see how loud your expected loud will be.

I know I didn't need a high wattage power supply, but I got a good deal on a SeaSonic X1250, and I was concerned ab noise and it had a passive mode. I got it for $140, and expect it to last a long long time, and generally don't hear the fan turn on.

cazablocki cinder block head confirmed 🤡

@@maoteddy5879 Some people value silence. If you compare a 450W and 1250W PSU that both have passive modes (meaning the fan doesn't spin up until a certain power draw), I think you'll find the 1250W unit can push far more power before the fan is required.

@@LucasFerreira-gx9yh I'm using 400w from the wall, meaning about 360W of actual power use... you're drinking the over-buying PSU cool aid.

@@LucasFerreira-gx9yh Efficiency comes first, wattage second. Efficiency signals that it's going to consistently deliver its true rating which means you don't have to overbuy...and because it's efficient it makes less heat which is good for longevity and means that your build can use a smaller cooling solution! My experience is that the OEM power supplies are built to just barely do the job and will give out in a few months if loaded continuously, even if the system is in factory configuration; I would always buy at least an 80+ rating PSU if you intend for the system to last. Every power supply does age, but that's just the nature of capacitors. Plan to replace it when you change motherboards and you should be fine.

you are crazy bro

@@narwin2477 it's doing totally fine... 360w is really not too hard for a 550w psu...

@@BL-hj7hi yeah bitch now check how much performance you're losing because of your components undervolting themselves... probably can be seen on cinebench

i have the masterwatt , the one step high range model, the sleeving sucks, the glue that stick the heat shrink to the 24 pin came out easily, i also had another unit that had the 24 pin clip broken while new in box

@@lansiman It could be bad unit man?Idk, I never had a problem and the cables are decently sleeved even tho they're the "Ketchup and mustard" ones.

@@thatsoomohit it could be just my bad unit,but i'm talking about 3 out of 4 unit here,i do build for people and i ordered 2 unit,both had workmanship defect,i exchange for another 2,one still had it and one ok,i even do unboxing video for fear that dealer might blame user error for it

@@lansiman As far as I know Masterwatt is lower quality than MWE. Unless you mean Masterwatt Maker which is extremely rare.

Corsair V is better because of better topology

Yeah once I turned on my PC and a cloud of black smoke came out of my trusty old Thermaltake generic PSU that came with the 40 dollar case. Still ran fine for months afterwards

Did it take your parts with it?

I used to have a 550 B3 from EVGA in my main PC with an R5-2600 and a GTX 970(at the time, it has a Vega 56 now) I had it since 2017 and one day it turned off while I was playing a game, then it wouldn’t turn back on. It eventually turned back on and made a loud pop and started spewing smoke out the back. Thankfully nothing was damaged.

@@rundown132 fortunately it did not take my parts

Yeah, PSU should be expensive, and you'll be fine. I learned this from a cheap one either. FSP is amazing.

That was good information about the amps on a single rail. A multi-rail psu may not be able to provide enough power to the gpu.

citizenguy thanks for the info!

But for a RTX 2080 TI with a CPU which can fuel IT wholeworthy i would Take a 850 80+ Platinum or Gold psu Minimum. The Card can get "Spulenfiepen".

@@8iosatlost209 what

Don't do it bro, obey the 80%

I suppose you have charged him for warranty service? Or nothing got damage permanently?

He's got a 1030 lmao, there are few PSUs I wouldn't trust with that

With a GT 1030 he no need more then 450w 80+ white and even this is OVERKILL.

@@strohhuttv8848 already told him that. Even a 300watts on a OEM can run that card. You don't argue with customers though. I keep all record and contracts because there will always be that one customer that will either try to rip you off or don't listen but don't want to pay either because they made their research but have you repair it.

@@jay22alco Indeed today most customers doesn't listen and do what they want.

Well something like a 1070 will need them

@@markomclane475 no

@@markomclane475 it might have them for some reason but it will never need them. GTX 1070 is a 150W card even one 8 pin is overkill actually.

Christopher Coonan true fan x2

@@venganzadechuky just a fan.

Doesn't always hapoen,in my country 450 psu's are atleaat 4 times cheaper than 550 or 600.

But cons the more expensive 450w psu are fully or semi-modular, also bronze, golden, platinum ratings has bit diffrence at energy-wasting bronze is 85%~, gold 90%~, platinum 93%~. So expensive 450w might be gold, fully modular, premium materials. Same price 600w might was basic or bronze non-modular. Basic is 80%~

nice does it still work good if you're still using it?

Let them buy what they want

It's not really your business to tell them what they don't need.

@@MrCrazyjoe259 Sounds very close to ripping off some customers that may not return.

@ev fn It might be the moral thing to do, but as a sales associate, it is not always in the company's best interest to be saving people money. It's definitely a shitty thing, but many walk-in stores are struggling to get sales in the first place due to this pandemic. Employees can even get in trouble for doing things like this too often. Running a business isn't particularly about being virtuous. Sales is sales. If the customer comes in asking specifically about power supplies, then yeah, you can inform them that you probably don't need a 1000w unit, but if they came in believing that's what they need and intend to buy without asking the associate questions about it, then you should probably let them buy what they want. They are there to sell products and answer questions. The customer might get ripped off, but if they didn't do research before-hand or ask questions, it's kinda their own fault.

Here's my hot take: If the customer wants a power supply that can safeguard their computer from damage or malfunction, then why would op try to argue that customers are wasting money on power supplies when clearly they are still receiving higher product utility than they would on the 450-watt supply?

Needless to say don't do that. 12V is what mainly powers CPU and GPU, pulling other rails can "overwhelm" the power supply and result in your computer celebrating new year's eve early. An example would be Gigabyte's infamous excuse for a PSU.

@@Silvahhhhhhhhhh i think you completely misunderstood... You can always check the values listed on the sticker, what I'm saying is the labeling difference making one 250W PSU actually more powerful than another 500W PSU

Ironic the company name is Codemasters

@@remyb2154 yeah thats the running gag for me

lmao. My Dirt game crashes on PC almost like on the 3rd or 4th day ( no BSOD). Also suprisingly it also crashes ( F1 2017) on my ps4 quite often though its downloaded on an HDD and not read from the Bluray disk

@NICULL Same

yeah my psu exploded when i was playing a game i have a weak ass psu

@DARKDAYZGAMESDDG It won't change the performance and it's not really something that matters since it's not pulling that much power anyway, but a higher efficiency would mean less power wasted and less heat output from the power supply. Not really something that matters at the low end where power draw is generally pretty low (excluding old parts that are power hungry but low end for today's standards), but something that does matter at the high end where power draw is much higher and where a few percentage will mean a bigger number!

nah 850w psu is overkill 750w-650w best overall.

Mine says 540w is enough for an rtx 2080 super and i pick 8 hours/day. And i have a 600w psu.

No

Yes

Modern PSUs don't have a curve like that. Corsair has moved towards near peak efficiency regardless of load for all but the lowest end of their lineup. JohnnyGuru references itnis his PC world psu myths video.

@@eila2088 The efficiency curve of (current) higher tier PSUs is almost flat these days but running at ~50% load most of the time still prolongs their lifespan and is still better for the system long term. I generalized to include even budget oriented (80+ rated) PSUs and it won't hurt higher tier PSUs either. It's sound advice no matter how much you are spending on your PSU. The only argument against it would be if you are planning to upgrade (your system not the PSU) down the line in which case tailor your purchase to that power envelope not your current one. Common sense really.

@@Xaltar_ I believe you reminding my own experiences. And another Aspekt ist that Many people Plan their expensive Upgrade arround a 500 Watt psu which they bought bevore. There can be used even 2 psu's in one system. I have Made very good experiences with Overlocking using a psu for mobo& CPu&RAM&storage and one for the Graphik Card!! And they can get weaker psu's can get weaker that ist true!!!!!

The same bell curve, both extremes of the same misunderstanding

This is true on older/cheaper electrical designs, but modern tech has flattened the efficiency curve considerably. Whether the fan is running or not depends more on the specific design of the unit rather than just its efficiency curve, e.g. if the designer has used smaller/cheaper heat dissipating components that require more air flow.

@@BruceLeedar Look at any power supply, even the highest end one's efficiency curves and you will see for yourself that this is still the case, it's physics. They for sure have wider efficiency bands than earlier designs though.

@@BruceLeedar There are efficiency curves on the PSU manufacturers website (if its a reputable brand like Seasonic), too bad he didn't mention the reason it is actually recommended to get about a 40% bigger PSU rating for your system unless you dont really care about power consumption and your components

@Ghost-squad I changed my graphic card with 1 year of warranty left in that power supply it died the next day the warranty expired with 2060.

@Ghost-squad I had cooler master 450w power supply which I was using for 2 years I bought 2060 and used it with the same power supply and it died after the end of 3 year 1 day. Cooler master gives 3 years of warranty. Hence I posted my first comment

You probably didnt have your hearing help too

That a workstation not a PC my youngling

I was just about to post the same timestamp and question. That thing bounces of the table from impact lol

Then runs it in 1080p T_T

@@Meklon It doesn't matter since it's pretty much uncapped fps

I hate these types of people, calling an RTX 2080 “decent” or some shit, irritates the hell out of me

Alper Duman why bother watching then?

@@alperduman9294 Yeah I consider my 1660 super decent and anything higher then that high end.

Archmage when?

Also to the defense of "high wattage", longevity... 12 years ago, I bought a 800W PSU with intention of a crossfire setup.. I never did. That PSU probably never saw 500W+ utilisation, and looked like a waste of money back then.... However, 12 years later, I still daily use that PSU after 4 GPU and 4 Motherboard upgrades... My 400 and 550W PSUs on my other PCs didn't last half as long. On the long run, it ended up far cheaper than a 550W I could have bought back then..

Thank you for this info!