I bought an attachment to turn my pressure washer into a sandblaster. This is my initial impression of it. Disclaimer- This is an affiliate link. Using the link helps support my channel. pressure washer sandblaster- amzn.to/3ekqlUu
Any updates on this video after a year? Seems like maybe using the aluminum oxide media might work a little better. Maybe try upgrading the pressure washer to a higher pressure one and see what results you get. I would suggest buying a 4000psi one and just keep the receipt. If it doesn’t do what you’re looking for then return it, or I guess just return it even if it does if you don’t want to spend the money. Return policies allow for being dissatisfied with the product even if it works.
I'd love to see another video or 5 more for that matter. I heard Walnut or Pecan shells ground up are supposed to be amazing, I've also heard glass but I admit, I'm clueless. I have a 1984 Z28 Camaro that I want so something like this on. I don't know want my dad killing himself for 3 months sanding it if I can do something like this. Please respond with newer videos if you have any good ones... Thanks in advance.
I just tried mine out, got one just like this one but mine didn't come with an attachment adapter so I had to remove my tip to make it work. My pressure washer is 2300lb pressure @ 2gpm. I bought 70 grit aluminum oxide media from Harbor freight. Let me tell you it worked like a charm, I immediately got that shiny bare metal you were looking for. The play sand you used is too smooth and rounded if you look at it through a microscope, the abrasive media under the same scope would be sharp jagged edges that's what makes the difference. If all you're looking for is to remove the bulk of the flaky paint or rust chips then sure go ahead and use the cheap sand it'll probably even make the tip last longer.
I totally agree with you on an agreesive sand.If your going to paint after you need a tecture on the metal for the paint to stick.Black magic sand cuts really good with a rough finish and the paint will not peel off.
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust ru-vid.comUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
this came up in my video suggestions. Good video warts and all! The budget DIY kits will work but you need to take a much steadier approach with them. If you are using sand you'll need a helluva lot of it! Also you need to work along and down the item one width of the jet at a time in a very slow steady manner. Also if you want a more aggressive strip go for recycled crushed glass grit. medium fine is about as large as you can go on these and still work without them constantly clogging up (< 1mm grit). Also when you release the trigger always have the jet pointing down toward the ground that way the water doesn't siphon into the sand pick up tube. get a lid for your bucket and put a small hole in it for the tube, then tape an umbrella to the side of the tub! wet sand don't suck! If you use glass put a large tarp under your item, sweep it up and set it aside to dry out then use it again! I just subscribed to your channel it looks like the kind of content I appreciate, good luck, Bill
Love diy crowd, vibes are wholesome. Came here from regular internet. Just a guy at work and people cheering on and giving advice. I had to remove some rust from underside of my FJ Cruiser, took half a day with wire brush. If I only new what sandblasting was :)
@@Prokastrynator I'm restoring my 1980 K10 this ny winter. I wire wheeled and used them paint grinder discs for almost an entirely week straight and didn't get to far. I went the sand blasting route for the last 3/4 of the truck, bought a harbor freight blaster and rented out of em big ass compressors and It was hell but the trucks frame and undercarriage is clean and ready for some por-15. Some advice if you ever do any sand blasting. Get a blasting hood for yourself but ditch the windows in em and wear a mask and safety goggles not glasses, goggles. I had a hell of a time tryna see because either the safety glasses/windows were getting scratched to shit or the glasses were fogging up. Due to my time restraints and not living anywheres near a store I couldn't just go out and pick up some goggles and not I'm paying for it because I removed the face mask to prevent fogging and I'm hacking the shit up lol. Learn from experience I guess! Goodluck
For future testing.. I would consider hanging the bucket and maybe using some kind of attachment on the bottom of it or put a hole so you can run the hose through and the pick up can sit in the bucket so it’s being fed by gravity as well as vacuum. It’ll also help you keep from getting water in it. Put it on a pole.
In order to obtain the proper venturi effect (for sucking up the sand) you'll need to have: 1) a minimum of 3+ gallons per minute of water flow... PSI not that important. 2) Your sand should always be sifted in a dirt sifter (pretty cheap) first. Avoid playground sand as it's consistency is not correct for this application. Ask your supplier for proper sand. 3) Use a tarp to collect your sand and reuse it over and over and over again. Spread it out after usage to dry it in the sun coolest it and keep it in a 5 gal bucket lid closed. 4) Keep sand bucket behind you, as far as your tubing allows, mind the wind direction and adjust the workpiece accordingly. 5) Orient your tip inlet above the the nozzle (don't let the angled tubing hang down) this avoid water clogs. Advise coming from much personal experience... follow those steps for wet sandblasting and you'll get to bare metal all the time economically..
I have the same sand-blaster and get great results with regular beach sand. Some tips: Put your sand bucket on a stool so it doesn't have to be sucked up against gravity. Take it slow. It's not like pressure washing. Bump the tip on the work now and then if the sand stops flowing. Keep the sand feed tube on top, so that water doesn't drip into it. Wet sand won't flow Do the job on a concrete surface. Leave the wet sand to dry. Sweep it up, sieve it and reuse it.
The latest video on my channel is using the sandblaster with a revised process. Thanks for the suggestion on setting the bucket on something. I could maybe put a tarp down to try to catch some of the media.
Pretreat (keep wet) the rust aereas with citrus acid water for 20-30 min.. Then try keep a 90 degres angle against the surface and keep nossle close and slowly
Hey Roger, you are not gonna believe this, but I bought one very similar to that one on Amazon for my pressure washer two weeks ago. I had pretty good luck with it until the overspray got a little too much into the sand bucket. But as long as the sand stayed dry it worked quite well for what it is. Next time I'm going to drop it through a hole in a lid to shed the overspray. A more direct angle to the workpiece (90*) will help get to bare metal as well as a closer distance. I wasn't super satisfied with it, but for a small project and the low investment it was not too bad. I use Silica sand because one of the largest Silica sand mines in the US is here where I live. I buy it on pallets in 80# bags by the ton for my big sandblaster I use on large projects. I am editing a video of my large blaster currently. Good video and good review as well.
That is about when I got mine. I thought about getting a lid and cutting a hole in it too! I experimented with the angles and I agree 90* works best. There is a sand mine here too. I don't know if they sell bags of sand. I autocross with a guy that works there, I could ask him if the governor ever reopens things so we can autox.
Oh yes, one more thing. slow down your passes on your sweeping motion, and let the media do its job. spit up your working surface into 1 square foot incraments, and allow for a thourough concentration of blast media to focused in each zone.
I'm not sure, but it looked like you had another straight extension after the handle. If so, remove that and make it shorter. You will get an increase in pressure. Straighten out the hose form the bucket too and that ill decrease effort to pull sand through hose. I would also drill a hole in bottom side of the bucket and push hose in to ensure you are pulling in sand as easy as possible. You could even hang it higher to make that even easier.
Just hit the spots where it works like the bottom. The tight rust is actually protecting the metal - that is why bluing is used on firearms. Go ahead and pressure wash it and let it dry. Now, paint it with aluminum paint. I like to brush it on because you can see it creep int all the nooks and crannies. If you want it to look purdy, wait a day or so and paint it whatever color you like. Use oil based paint. I have used aluminum paint on mower decks, truck beds and farm equipment for years. Even without top coats, it will protect better than anything else I have tried plus, if any rust should start again, you can see it immediately. My neighbor watched my experiments back in the 80's and he used it to prime his wood frame windows before painting. That was almost 40 years ago and he still hasn't had to repaint.
@@TractorTech - Actually, I use whatever is cheapest. The ones I use seem to have a turpentine smell to them. Really nothing more than tiny bits of aluminum suspended in a binder. Roof paint generally has asphalt in it and is a poor product to use for this application because it can trap moisture and hide any rust that forms. Spoke to a paint tech at a trade show years ago and he said he wished they could produce it in colors. It works so good because the aluminum is in flakes which overlap each other and because they are reflective, they prevent UV damage. Other pigments are like little balls and can't do as good a job.
It is best to use a hose with a PTFE or teflon liner. Regular web hoses made of vinyl are sticky to the media and will heat it up as it swirls around and cause clogs. Garnet is a good media along with Aluminum oxide. Ideally it is better to pressure feed the media rather than rely on suction. Harbor Freight sells pressure pots for blasting that can be used at lower pressures to feed this. The ratio of media to water is critical if you want to get it down faster.
Good job on the video Roger looks like a pretty neat tool. I guess the results were pretty good for a cheaper alternative to the real thing. I just hate the thought of sand blasting brings back memories of a job I had as a teenager working on my uncles farm. Hot sweaty and sand in all the wrong places. Take care brother
Great video, I plan to purchase this tool today. Also, my dad taught me to preserve metal with boiled linseed oil, an old farmer hack. I coat all my bare metal with it: shovels, steel fence, and most tool metal. Just reapply as needed for maintenance and it does the preservation job and prevents rust.
I use ground bottle glass that comes from recycling, it is cheaper and you can get different sizes, you might need to use 500 micron (0,5 mm) for that tractor scoop, but it can depend on the feed nozzle size that you have on the gun.
I believe for about 95% of the time you were pressure-washing, no sand was being siphoned. At 5:20 and briefly thereafter, we could see some white-metal areas appearing, but for the most part, it was just water-blasting. You kinda need to keep eyes on both the work and the siphon-hose to monitor how the sand is moving. I had a similar experience with my similar setup, which I set aside, but hope springs eternal. I needed a helper to keep an eye on the sand, to keep moving the siphon-wand around and be sure it wasn't clogged or 'sucking air,' that overspray wasn't getting in the bucket (but was working alone)...but mostly what I was fighting with was water backwashing into the sand-hose from the nozzle...boom: shut it down until you can get that hose clean/dry. The holy grail of this method would be a system that can work with wet sand. I messed around with that a little, only to the point where it became obvious that a wet-sand slurry, when added to the pressure-washing stream, took all the needed velocity out of it.
It was sucking sand but the siphon hose did not have a full stream. Shortly after I did this video this pressure washer died. I am going to try it again on my other pressure washer.
Get an old lpg/ propane bottle, and cut the bottom out, then invert it so it will be a funnel for the sand. Attach the feed hose to the gas fitting, for continuous sand feed. Make some legs for it and you are ready.
@Jack Blakeney Take a look at what some people are doing in the realm of 'vapor honing.' It's close to what I was hoping to do, but won't be fast enough for what I need to do typically, according to one of the most prolific posters. They're doing what amounts to wet sandblasting, but in cabinets. Problem for me is that it's not so much for heavy rust removal, though GREAT for cleanup of finer oxidation and paint from smaller-scale parts like engine or carburetor components. Anyway, the basis for getting the sand into a suspension in their supply water is just an average-sized submersible pump that recirculates water within a common 5-gal bucket that's got the sand in it as well, placed below the cabinet. A portion of the pump output is redirected to blow the sand up from the bottom of the bucket, thus achieving the suspension. The guns they use siphon up that suspension. There's a LOT of water in the blasted mix, to the point where they have to use windshield-wipers and such to keep a clear view of what's being cleaned. If I were doing nothing but small-part restoration, I'd go this route for sure.
@Jack Blakeney I went a lot further than that, and had dismal results. Adding a heavy water/sand mix to the pressure-washer stream had the same effect as running a car into deep mud: the stream has nowhere near enough energy to clean once the two collide. It apparently works with compressed air vs pressurized water as the driving force, though (eg vapor honing).
I think what you've got there is a paintable surface, which is what you wanted. If it were a show tractor it probably wouldn't win best in show. If you are just looking to maintain your equipment and not look like you were a refugee from the junk yard, you are right where you need to be.
When your using the sandblaster if you have the sand input hose on the top it works better if the hose is on the bottom it let's water go down and is gets the sand wet
If you knock off the loose rust and paint you can use a rust converter primer and paint it, should be good as new then. I work on heavy machinery for a living and that's how we do it, and the paint job lasts a long time afterwards.
If you read the manual, it does tell you to keep the abrasive feed coming in from above, to stop water wetting the sand in the tube and reducing the flow.. you started with it at the bottom, then from the side.. never from above
The benefit of play sand as I understand it is the fact that you can basically keep re using it just dry it out and filter out the dust It’s not intended to get better results than human engineered aggregates it’s intended to be the most economical But you can use better aggregate for a better finish and do the same by throwing down tarps and hanging them over the backdrop Just spread it out in the sand after and filter like the play sand
It's the sand bubs. "Play Sand" is called that because it's smooth/round particles and isn't used in construction for that reason; it's also a little safer for kids eyes. The type of sand used in concrete and mortar is more jagged/sharp and is used in construction because it will interlock/pack to a degree. This is the sand you want for blasting. It's in the same area in Home Depot as the Play Sand and probably a little cheaper. Pretty much guarantee you'll get a better result with it.
I'm going to try this with my 3400 psi washer. I live in west Texas where we have very fine sharp sand that will strip tungsten carbide coated ditcher chain off in a few hours. I think it will work great. Thanks much!
I took a set of antique wrought iron rails that was completely covered with rust to a car paint shop simply to have it sandblasted. The price they quoted for both was only $300. I saved much time, money and heartache trying different products or techniques that likely would have failed.
I have the same. blasting gun. the sand feed tube is a) too long = more resistance to suction b) coiled (sand goes down, then has to be lifted, repeat), big resistance c) wet or just humid sand won't flow well, if at all. Must be super dry. so that adds up a lot of resistance for the suction to overcome, preventing a reliable, full volume of sand. yes, wet sand will clog. if any doubt are granularity, sift the sand thru window screen to reduce clogging my washer: Powerhorse Gas Cold Water Pressure Washer - 3200 PSI, 2.6 GPM When I got good sand flow, only intermittently, removed mill scale and gave white steel. Even with your pitted, rusty steel you should be getting white steel But the sand flow was VERY irregular. Very frustrating. I shortened and straightened the sand feed tube, which was much better, but not yet acceptable. holding the gun in one hand, and jiggling the sand tube in the other. tedious, ineffective. I'm thinking about elevating the sand bucket to about waist height so the suction doesn't have to lift the sand, should increase chance of a good, steady sand flow. And I agree, play sand at $5 / 40 pounds works well. Lowes has two grades of sand. Large grains weren't my problem, but I will sift next time anyway.
I agree with all of that. I think I need some kind of stand for my bucket. Someone said pool filter sand works well. I have also been told to try different tips.
It looks like the sand/blast media needs to be in a bottom outlet cone sitting above the job. That way gravity takes it all the way to the blaster tip. All the water suction as to do is overcome line friction.
Generally I use electrolysis for any part that fits in the tank. However a trailer or Bobcat won't fit inside. I developed my first pressure blasting system in 1995 from an old 3500 psi washer and a pressure tank with a threaded cap to pour the sand in. Got the sand from my yard and dried it in the sun on the asphalt. After sifting it went into the tank.
Good morning Roger! Interesting product. I had never heard of it before. Thanks for sharing it - great point about getting the ceramic tip on the unit instead of plastic. Hope you and your family are doing well!
I think it looks great. You don't have to get it down to new metal. The paint will adhere really well to that surface forhe same reason you spray red oxide primer. My uncle and cousin spent their lives in the sand blasting business and that's what they told me. Youmight even let is set out a couple days to get that flash rust so the paint can get a good bite into the metal.
Used one but added a flow in via compressor sand tank. So sand is pushed through. Even with a small electric water blaster it works aok.Wear good breathing mask.
It looks like it takes off surface rust and paint, but not bare metal. If you paint with a rust inhibitor do you think the paint job would last? Please do another video with some other sand type and/or attachment and see if there is a solution that will get to bare metal.
i taped a small plastic pipe to the end of the wand, taoed a coke bottle as a hopper for the sand feeding into the pipe. saved myself buying the attachment etc
I need to strip bottom coat on a boat, perhaps stripper and this... I've been sharing when I can... .. . Would be great on a farm or anywhere you have rusty parts sitting around. Rust removal using simple Molasses.... 1 to 9 parts water, Will last up to 7 months. It Will have a slite odor but bearable. Get a kiddy pool, garbage can PVC pipe Tupper ware or whatever. Let parts sit for 2 to 3 weeks. Remove and best to power wash off. Every bit of metal turns to silt. No brushing just spray and protect from flash rust. You could coat with boiled linseed oil if just yard metal. So much better than sandblasting if possible as it will not harm the surface metal at all only rust. I've tried many solutions from acid to electricity. This works best.
This would be good for initial clean off of loose rust. Then coat it with that rust transformer stuff that chemically changes rust to a hard black coating you can paint. I can’t remember what it’s called right now ?
Hi, and good morning. I would like to begin by saying, I like the way you presented the information in your presure washer sand blasting video. I work in the sand blast and paint feild, and as I have experienced more than 23 years in this industry, with multiple fauceted types of techniques and methods of deployment of blast media, one commonality in utilizing any form of abrasive, is pressure. regardless of what is being used, the pressure is the back bone, or the mule pulling the cart. the beginging of your video mentions 3000 psi and a minimum pressure. That is about 2/3 of the amount needed to remove undamaged paint. For example, a car with no rust or delaminating paint. In order to remove rust and the oxidation rust leaves behind you're going to need a minimum of 6 to 10 thousand psi, and thats if you are looking to gain a profile sufficient for the bonding of any coating system. That being said, since your desire is to apply a protective coating system, the last thing you want is any oxidizing substance on freshly basted surface. the salts in the the water system, espectialy tap water with remain on surface even after drying, trapping those particles and continuing the oxidation process. Dry is better, however if this hydo blasting method is to be used, then a destilled fresh water wash is highly recomended, prior to application of primer. Hope this info helps your future projects.
Thanks about the video. Thanks for all of the info on the blasting. I may try to fill an IBC tote (275 gallons) with distilled water. I had not thought about the minerals in the water causing oxidation. I have a propane weed burner I was going to use to dry it the water off. This is blaster is going to be used on tractor implements or possibly a trailer. It is not going to be used on anything that I am looking for a high end paint job, just something that I am trying to preserve and make a look a little better. I have another video. Check it out and let me know what you think. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BlJ2jguphao.html
That may be true, however for the home gamer you have to consider cost. Use a sharp sand from a masonry shop instead of play sand, and then I'd use a compressor to blow most of the water off and then a spray down with phosphoric acid to cut flash rust.
question, with something that pushes out water along with the sand how do you keep the rust from coming back? wouldn't the rust form faster on a wet unprotected surface? not a metal worker but I know rust can form pretty quickly depending on the type of metal.
It actually doesn rust like you think it would. Maybe the film of blast media protects it??? I was thinking about using a weed burner to dry things off on a recent project but didn't. If you want to get rid of all of the rust something like naval jelly would be good to follow up with.
What you have looks like it is ready(when it dries) to be painted with a rusty metal primer and then a top coat. I have a big sandblaster that makes the steel clean and brite but it makes a big mess and takes at least an hour to set up. For tractor attachments, dump bodies, truck frames, and other normal use steels, I think you got it good enough. I will probably try one of those next year. Good Luck, Rick
I've used that rust metal primer. It seems to work good for something like this. I need to try some different media in this to see if I can get any better results. Have a good week!
Try morter sand. I bought some for a sand box for the grandkids. The guys at the hardware store told me it's better for building sand castles than that stuff you buy in a bag. They filled the whole bed of my truck for $19.20 at the concrete plant that was conveniently nextdoor to the hardware store. It's a much finer sand.
Next time stick sand pisker directly in sand badg and avid water to come in sand. inlet for sand in nozle must alvays be on the top side to prevent water to some in hose with sand because water jamed hose and there is no wacum to bring sand in nosle. Sorry for my poor english.
tractor Tech I've been thinking about getting one of those little handheld sandblaster that Harbor Freight sells I restore a lot of BB guns Daisy BB guns and I thought maybe one of those might work cuz I use the wire wheel like you got and sandpaper and it takes awhile to do it so I'll see what happens and if it works out I'll let you know old George Northern California
I got one a year or so ago haven't used it yet. Was thinking about bead blasting raw aluminum to get that new look but glass bead is so frickin expensive. A bug bomb will get the same results for under 5 bucks.
"Get your sand where it's stored inside, you don't want to get your sand wet when you start blasting" - immediately starts getting the sand wet with no lid on the bucket xdd
I'd love to see another video or 5 more for that matter. I heard Walnut or Pecan shells ground up are supposed to be amazing, I've also heard glass but I admit, I'm clueless. I have a 1984 Z28 Camaro that I want so something like this on. I don't know want my dad killing himself for 3 months sanding it if I can do something like this. Please respond with newer videos if you have any good ones... Thanks in advance.
Yeah, there are some many things that could be tested. I have this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BlJ2jguphao.html also setting the bucket up on something hig helps too.
Great video. I was thinking if you were to tie your sand bucket to your motorized compressor it would help too shake the sand int the pickup tube. I really like this !!
I'm interested and thinking that together with a diy coke bottle air blower sand blaster could give fairly workable results. Water and sand are definitely a recipe for flash rust I'd reckon.
Still 25 bucks u can’t beat it ! Special in those tight areas that are hard to work at .. this would be awesome for my mowers and trailers. I don’t need it 100% perfect but good enough to stop the spread of the rust that’s all ..
maybe if the bucket of sand is up on a stool so that the sand can come down with gravity. and get all the curls out of the hose so the sand doesnt' have to do loopty loops to get to where it needs to go. Put a hole in the bottom of the bucket and so the sand tube comes out the bottom of the bucket.
I would think that at low pressure and the water to sand ratio would only take off surface rust unless you remained concentrated in a small area over time.
Try black beauty. Its coal slag, it's sharp and is what is used by real blasting crews. I saw it once at menards. When used with air only, it explodes and sparks when it hits the surface. Been wanting one for a while .
Thats really good result. You reallt must get the garnet or steel/iron sand to try at least once. The earth scoop is in a condition that can be real disappointing if you get the big commercial units onto it. The other one is silicone sand. I don't suggest you get anything for nothing in this business. No man does! I am impressed enough to consider one myself, in the same position as you appear to be? And a hood with face shield heavy duty boiler suit, thick gloves like welders gloves and cover up from the blast. Not much point beggering about filming future success. The product will be the payoff. Thank you for showing me the adapted type wet blaster. Mud guards and bonnets will be mint with play sand you used before painting. Whatever the sand is (play sand?)
I have not used this method before, but I have done a lot of pressure washing and a small amount of sandblasting. It appears to me that you danced around far too much, and did not spend enough time on concentrated areas. Maybe try slowing down and work on small areas.
Play sand is not very good for blasting, but if you insist on using it, run it through a metal window screen first to get out the oversized chunks that will clog your system. I would like to see this system used with fine black diamond coal slag. That stuff cuts good in a dry blaster, I guess it would work good this way too...
I was using play sand since it is cheap, and I can only use the sand one time with this system. I am going to try some other things when the weather gets better.
Black Diamond Blasting Abrasives (coal slag ) is 50lb/$11. I used it dry in a highly modified HF blaster. It cuts well but the media gets everywhere and is very difficult to clean up. I want to try it wet but my pressure washer is only 2300 lbs @ 2.3 GPM. I've read that the wet blasters are only effective @ 3500 PSI and above.
I would try pre-treating the rust before wet blasting with WD-40 or any cheap rust remover. I'm about to buy a wet blast attachment to spray the chipping paint of my concrete porch before I repaint it. I hope it works.
@@SteveMacSticky Yes, it worked really well. I found a bag of "black blast" medium at my local hardware store but sand would have worked just fine I think. It blew right through 50 years of paint layers even in the places it was not chipping yet. I used a 5gal bucket with a lid I cut a hole for the siphon tube to fit through to try to keep the medium from getting wet. It was a bit messy cleaning up the black black and probably would have just opted for sand if I had to do it over again.
The black blast was very sharp and shiny like crystals of coal. It reminded me of what is used to coat sandpaper. It was easier and safer option to a diamond wheel on an angle grinder and probably cheaper too in the end.
Don't let water get into the sand transport pipe. Hold the wand so that the sandpipe remains above nozzle. If water gets into the sand pipe it will get clogged with wet sand and sand will not be sucked into and enter the nozzle.
I could, I think I need to try different media. My pressure washer also died the next time I used it, so it may have been low on pressure in the video.
You would think with that high of pressure, the sand would buff it to a bare metal fast. But I don't think this works well because the water seems to be buffering the abrasive effect of the sand so that it glides off without actually etching into the metal. Thanks for the demo.
@@TractorTech I am no scientist, but I suspect the density of the fine media vs density of water comes into play. Water molecules surrounding the grain of sand lessens the impact. Maybe coarser sand would be more effective.
I wonder how that harbor freight sandblast gun would work- but something like that implement I would just clean it the best I could and then por 15 it/rust inhibitor then paint it
After cleaning there's a spray on treatment called fluid film that's a metal penetrant preserve to stop further rusting & would be ideal for what you have there. Content creator AMMO NYC used it on an old doodlebug for a guy who wanted to protect but not remove the rust that was there after cleaning the metal . Title of the vid is , First Wash in 91 Years: Ford Model A Found in Woods and Start Up!. Apparently it's used as an undercoat on street cars, i assume he means hot rods. Hope i can get here as i could do with some of it
Breh! Get some sand mixed with glass and wal nuts or coal slag that’ll do it. Not just sand. It’s called a sand blaster but mix it up with other grinds. Brake a window and grind that bicth up and mix it in there same with walnuts
