Wow. I'm a professional sandblaster with a $75 K rig. Before I bought this rig, I tried everything. Your one of the first videos I've seen that is telling the truth and the whole truth. Everyone else wants to slant it in one direction or another. Nicely done.
@Based Canadian The lowest cost good performing compressor and blaster costs about $1,300-1.400. A thousand of it is just the gas engine compressor that puts out 35 cfm a minute. I call this the baby blaster and it's great for little stuff. It's the smallest amount of money you can spend and then be glad you spent it. Spend less than that and you will regret spending it. If you can't afford that, then harbor freight junk is your only other option and you will hate it. If you can afford it, google After Hours Welding and Sandblasting in St Augusine Fl, find my email on my website and contact me. Wanna see my big blaster? jacksonville-florida-sandblasting.com/ Watch the first two videos.
Based Canadian+ Running a sand blaster takes A LOT OF air. I have 2 compressors, one is an 80 gal tank with a 7hp Baldor electric motor and 15hp 2 stage compressor motor, I paid $1,200 for it. My other compressor is a really cool vintage Devilbiss 5 HP Air Compressor model # AC2029. I FOUND this one at an abandoned autobody shop near the Ohio, Kentucky border. And my blasting cabinet is a Mac Blast which is 70X40X30 inches, I paid $600 for it. I was planning on building my own blasting cabinet, either by modifying an actual steel office cabinet of some sort, or fabing a custom sized steel box up and welding it. If I were on a budget, I would scour and check out scrap metal yards, pass out ypur phone number to the guys at the scrap yard who have trailers full of scrap metal and look like they do it for a living. Let then know youre after an old large air compressor tank, 60, 80 or 120 gallons is good. Call junk yards and get creative. In 10 years Ive found 3 80 gal. tanks and the Devilbiss compressor, so its doable. Once you get the tank, find a 2 stage air compressor motor, theyre often a lot cheaper not mounted to a tank, again, talk to the scrappers in your area. Lastly, the most expensive piece of equipment youre PROBABLY gonna end up paying for, even a used, is a good 5-10hp electric motor. That electric motor connects to the 2 stage compressor pump and spins that pump which gathers air into the tank. They connect with 1,2 or 3 V-belts, similar to a powersteering pump belt on a car. If youre patient I'm confident you can get everything rolling for under $7-800, depending how you make the cabinet, if that's the type of blaster you want. Cabinet style are clean, open room blasting makes a mess that 99.9999% of guys like us DO NOT want to deal with! Another great tip is, DO NOT use any air lines smaller than 1/2inch to 3/4 inch. Even the fitting and quick disconnects, make sure the I.D. of those fittings never goes below 1/2 in. You will MURDER your air flow/cfm. I recently changed all my lines and fittings and it cuts through everything 3-4 times faster than before. Search Google Images for homebuilt sandblasting setups, theres tons on there and lots of good ideas! Good luck. Take care!
Based Canadiam+ Why didnt i think to mention this before, almost every tool rental store who rents fence post drilling augers, hi-los, etc, rent air compressors you can rent by the hour, day, week or month. 4 hrs is abt $50-100 for a large compressor and $400+ for the month.
@@weldersandblaster If I have a 30 gal 6 cfm small compressor and I want to do some cosmetic sanding on my car or to sand under the car to patch-up rust spots, will that work with a cheaper amazon gun and regular play sand? Time is not an issues, I can wait on my compressor (I got a good water filter, it's set-up for low cfm painting ;) ).
@@cubul32 1 play sand is the least aggressive sand there is as its rounded and not sharp edged. 2 six cfm is too little air flow. That will give you 30 seconds of blast time against 3 minutes of recover time. Since the sand is dull you will get virtually nothing done. Your better off using a rust converter or paint stripper chemical. Amazon sells some good rust converters.
Nice video, thanks for the no-nonsense presentation. I liked how your video moved along and wasn't artificially drawn out (like so many videos) to get more advertising dollars.
I have a pressure washer sand-blaster and get great results with regular beach sand. Some tips: Put your sand bucket on a stool so it doesn't have to be sucked up against gravity. Make sure there are no kinks or coils in the sand feed tube Take it slow. It's not like pressure washing. Bump the tip on the work now and then if the sand stops flowing. Keep the sand feed tube on top, so that water doesn't drip into it. Wet sand won't flow Do the job on a concrete surface. Leave the wet sand to dry. Sweep it up, sieve it and reuse it.
This. I ordered one off Amazon and it worked great for my truck frame. I did wire wheel prior to get all the heavy stuff off. But the dustless blasting did great on its own and got where the wire wheel couldn't and let the perfect finish for the epoxy primer. If you can't do it on concrete, a large tarp does great at capturing the media for reuse.
The guy that does my vapor blasting on my engine cases also has a massive diesel powered air compressor he uses on commercial outdoor jobs. I’m not experienced in any kind of blasting but he tells me it is all about the air and the quality of the air. It is a very versatile rig. He can do very gentle light blasting for technical jobs or blow holes in something. I think he said the diesel compressor cost about $30,000. Obviously it’s his business and he uses it everyday. He is a talented guy. Lucky to have him close by.
Was hopping for the dry ice in the selection of blasting material to compare. Still a very good comparison video. Well done. Thanks for your investment.
GREAT VIDEO, back in 1966 I had a 1955 Cadillac Coupe deVille, I bought from an older lady, one owner, I painted it Purple pearl with Blue Metalflake top. About 4 years went by I decided to put it back to stock, I sent it to a local sand blaster to strip the car, about 3 days later I picked up the car and when I got it home I realized that the whole car was TOTALLY RUINED!!!, It was WARPED beyond repair !!! Every panel was TOTALLY RUINED, They used high pressure and the roughest coarsest sand they had the same as you would use on rusty steel pipe or a brick building,!!!. SOOO my recommendation is if you sabdblast a car, BE VERY CAREFUL!!!, or you will have a WARPED pile of junk !!!. 😎😎😎. One more tip IF YOU HAVE TO STRIP A RUSTY CAR, NO MATTER IF YOU SANDBLAST OR ANY OTHER WAY THE INSIDE PANELS ARE STILL RUSTY !!!, IF THE CAR IS WORTH IT, ( HAVE IT DIPPED) BY A STRIPPING COMPANY LIKE (KLEEN STRP) this type of STRIPPING gets Everything, in the seams, pinch welds, rocker panels, A and B posts, the Sail Panels, inside all the places that nothing else can do, Plus they finish it by dipping it in a rustproofing, solution !!!. If your car is worth it, that's the way to go. Thanks William Orange county, Ca.
Yeah, you really gotta watch out for that. I put a warp spot in one of my doors that will need addressed. Keep the nozzle pointing in one place too long and you're sure to start destroying the metal.
Very informative. I appreciate the i donation I got and the effort you put into the experiment. I laughed at the joke at the end and I gave the video a like for the laugh 😂👌 I would love to see a test run like this with bench top sized pressure blasting box and different media in those.
Excellent demo! You understand the difference between video and radio. Some people talk and talk with no actual demo. This was very easy to understand. The advantage of wet media is that you don't get it in your lungs as much as dry. Also, if there is a way to collect it, it will be easier to flush the dirt out of the wet bucket than if dry. How about using dry garnet? No silica dust and much more abrasive at 30/60 grit for your purposes.
An easy way to add CFM without altering your wiring is to add compressors rather than running a larger one. This also lets you run just one for light work. Large bore air hose helps too. I don't plumb my air system with fixed pipe and fittings but instead use 3/4" ID red hose and Chicago couplings for high flow lines which do not restrict flow the way lines connected by small couplers do. That also lets me rearrange my equipment easily as I reconfigure my shops when adding equipment or adding more shop space. If I want to add a drop I can do that in minutes by cutting the hose and splicing in a tee with a coupling or whatever fittings I wish. Not everything is efficient to do at home which makes this video instructive. I blast modest sized parts at home but trailers, frames and other large items get trailered to my local monument shop (they use engine-driven compressors and large pressure pots to cut names and dates in granite headstones). If I had that body to do I'd winch it onto my trailer then weld the rotisserie to the trailer deck using whatever scrap was handy. That's stronger than tiedowns, quick and easy. After blasting it would be easy to slice off the mounts in minutes then wheel the rotisserie off the trailer. I use scaffolding casters with round shanks to move all sorts of heavy items and mounting tubes are easy to fab so you can swap the casters between items.
Soda more for soft abrasive work like wood car plastic ect.😂👍. Brought me a camping tent for my work shop . awesome works soft abrasive work.also sand blast 👍 from new Zealand 🌏 .
Great video, thank you dude. So many other videos are full of crap and life stories, thanks for getting to the point and clearly showing the differences.
Built a small 2"x2" lumber 8'X6' frame "Shed" inside my shop and used 2mil plastic to make a "Greenhouse" big enough to fit the tub for my jeep. sand blasting soon.... and for the air supply issue, I'll be renting a Diesel Sullair Compressor for the weekend to save my 80 Gallon compressor from working itself to death
Thanks for the good info, I just purchased a pressure washer blaster kit(cheap amazon) going to give it a try. But from what you experienced I have my doubts.
The Pressure Washer sand blaster attachment works great for me. I had use the one from Northern Tools. My unit was a 4gpm 3800psi. I had used it to finish a Pressure Washing job. The customer had used House paint on the sidewalk around 30ft. I used pool filter sand from Home Depot at 4$ a bag. Used about 1.1/2 bags to remove the paint.
I used the pressure washer sandblaster to clean a utility trailer with just the old sand from my son's sandbox. Just ran it through a screen to filter out the junk. I also have a 4gpm 3800psi pressure washer which makes a big difference over the OPs pressure washer.
Well, its is a good demonstration of the limitation of non industrial equipment. Also a good demonstration of the 3 media types. With the equipment you have available a car body is probably a bit beyond your current capability, both from a cost and safety angle and a really piss off the neighbours angle. Personally I'd get the car body done professionally that bitumous underbody coating would just disappear use the coarser media's on the underside and rusty areas and soda on the painted areas. Use the home equipment for the smaller items you can rig a tarp over. Full overalls, gloves, your respirator and the hood you have would be applicable ppe for any blasting. Dust in the lungs or blowing skin away from where it should be is very unpleasant. Thanks for posting.
@@josephjoestar5444 If the gun is pointed at a 90 degree angle at the surface it will warp the metal. It should be aimed at less than 45 degrees. Also, if the gun is aimed in one place too long, the metal will heat up and cause warping.
Do yourself a favor and get a portable air compressor like those high output ones that run jackhammers. Go to an industrial auction and bid on one and bring it home behind your vehicle. You'll have enough air to run two sandblasters.
A lot of people try to run the blasters with a single phase air compressor that doesn't work real well. I had an air compressor with a 4 cyl Ford engine on it. It worked real good.volume = pressure
I'm going back a few years but we used was an attachment that was forty bucks from KMS Tools here in Canada that attached to the pressure washer and we could not keep up with the water sand mix! And it was not doing a very good job, and on the back of a flat deck I had my 1967 Beaumont up on jack stands and we decided to try glass and we were blown away how fast! And how clean and how much further a bag of glass would go to finish the job! It really was outstanding say the least
The only efficient method to prep an entire body core is professional wet tank derusting... definitely NOT for most home-based DIY-ers: Professional/ amateurs alike ...your video evaluation IS much appreciated and helps us all to individually decide what is best use for any given operative... also note that ANY grade of sand is not compatible for aluminum metal substrates: sets up dissimilar metal corrosion
Was thinking about getting one of those smaller pressure pots, but I can see with what I have planned, it’s gonna be a no go for that. Gonna have to get my hands on a small contractor unit. Looking at a few thousand for a blast pot alone.
I used to blast oil rig equipment, and two compressors really helped with removing epoxy paints. Stuff didn’t come off easily. If you want to blast continuously, you need a double chambered blast pot and someone to keep it filled while you blast. I used one on very rare occasions. Only used a single 6.5 cu. ft pot with a 185 cfm Gardner Denver or Ingersoll Rand towable. Regret giving up that job.
@@killerdoxen Don't know why but kinda find sandblasting almost therapeutic. Sounds like you know your stuff! Have a problem sourcing an extraction unit for a blasting cabinet if you could help?
MrCoffeypaul Can be quite satisfying at times. I enjoyed seeing the nice grey freshly cleaned equipment ready for painting or magnafluxing beforehand on the derricks. Couple sites I found for them if you’re talking about dust extraction from the cabinet. www.cycloneblasters.com/blast-cabinet-dust-collector/ www.raptorblaster.com/choose-dust-collector-blast-cabinet/ If you’re the diy type, look up cyclonic dust extraction. You could try building one yourself. The trick is to have the dirty air swirling around the inside of the collector against the walls. The dust will rub up on the wall and get slowed down to drop into the collection hopper at the bottom. Typically used for grain cleaning operations. The cleaner air would get sucked up the middle of the cyclone.
Black beauty, 3/16” tip and >12 CFM @90. You can also get quick results with wire cup brush on angle grinder to take off heavy stuff before using the blaster to prevent wasting a lot of blasting media :)
I was a sand blaster back in the 90’s Mostly used black beauty I sandblasted in a room big enuf for 2 tracker trailer to park side by side I’ve done everything from soda cans to ships It’s all in the media and pressure you use Trust me you will screw something up along the way lol I trashed a bunch of copper guttering. I could not see it was warping till the job was done and out side the blast room Lol boss was pisssed
Matt Liebherr I’ve never tried cerakoting but I’m guessing you would need it blasted but smooth . Fist RU-vid is your friend ! Second ether glass-bead it or use walnut shells ( get it form the pet store Zila brand is cheap ) or baking soda again RU-vid is your friend watch every video you can find ! Sorry I’m not more help
You should fill all your tanks up with air and then starting blasting just before your compressor is gunner turn it self of otherwise you'll need to wait until it catches up again that's how ive always done it and never had a problem that way
the wet one is also going to be a drain on anyone with a well.I used one to pressure wash my deck last year and for the first time in 40 years I had water issues.
Mr Ward..:.. my dustless machine has its own water tank so aside from filling the tank at the wells own pace there would be no exceltional use of your water system.... check locally for someone using a dustless blasting brand machines
Hi Ian,try adding an additional small air supply to your sand supply , in the bottom of your sand bucket ,set it to lightly aerate the sand , it will look like it is boiling ,it will also raise the level of the sand in the bucket , it will increase the sand supply and stop surging , a lot of powder products are transferred this way which helps the venturi .
There's also crushed shell and dry ice media. Your also to close to the piece for bigger blasters you should be about 2 feet between the nosle and the work.
Very nice, useful video. I was kinda excited about the pressure washer attachment, but after seeing the mess and low quality job I'll stick with dry media. Looking forward to seeing your choices for equipment and media. In my (limited) experience, chemical or mechanical (power sander, wire wheel) methods of rust removal are superior to media blasting. Would like to be proven wrong. Nice video - Thanks! >Charlie
Honestly I've found that blasting media is better at removing rust than anything. A wire wheel on an angle grinder seems to be the best for removing thick bondo. You can use a blaster, but it takes too long and uses a lot of media, so a wire wheel is really best for bondo in my book.
I uses a quite large sand blaster for oil field use that was 220 volt and the air compressor was 300 gal. It still had to be used in stages, then we hooked up a compressor to it that ran on 480 and it helped. I then took an old propane tank (1000 gal) like you see on a farm and put it in the mix. At that point I could blast for 50 min to an hour, and it took 15 min for the 2 compressors to fill it back up to 200 psi.
Assuming the compressors were running during sandblasting, you basically, you needed a third compressor to be able to run continuously. You can then go back to a smaller tank or keep the larger tank for the thrill of it.
Well it got tiresome to only be able to blast for ten to fifteen minutes, and have to wait for 10 minutes in between when we would have hours of work to get done, so I preferred it to be able to run continuously.@@ralphparker
I have use the commercial air compressors and Sand Blast pots that is the macdaddy but On thin metal it will gnaw the metal up you have to be cautious.
Tarp, using fine coal slag in pressurized blaster screen used media 3, 50 lb bags would do a whole car. I have a 60 gal single stage compressor and it keeps up really well. Medium grit i find is to heavy in these home based consumer blasters.
I too am surprised the the water pressure washer gadget wasn't better. I would of lost that bet. Came here for soda blasting info, have some very delicate items to clean, (1939 Mercury dash), and some others that soda would be better. Still wish I could find a video to teach me the different pressures people use for different medias and items. Even basic like soda @ 60 to 90 PSI Glass beads @ 70 to 100 PSI etc. etc. BTW, good video anyway.
I'd say to buy the cheapest, most course grit media you can buy, and get yourself one of these two blasters in my link below. www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/sand-blast-equipment-c-327_501/pressurized-blasters-c-327_501_505/redline-re20-pressurized-outdoor-abrasive-sand-blaster-p-1509 www.redlinestands.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&inc_subcat=1&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&keyword=general+pumps
You are totally right! Dry sand ,but big compressor which I have diesel powered.... It gets everything off rust undercoating but it is messy when it comes down to it there is no way around it we have a 50 ft by 18 ft sandblasting room. Nobody wants to pay a lot of money to have that stuff done anymore due to the way this world is going. The cheapest thing this place and from home Depot and screen it. You'll get four five uses out of it if you do it inside like we do. Then when it gets beat down we just throw it in the driveway and go buy another pallet. The faster you go the better it is but you need to learn how to angle the gun so you don't warp metal. I appreciate the video!
I hope your guys are using a fresh air supply hood. Using actual sand produces silica dust, which if inhaled, will give a man silicosis and kill him graveyard dead.
Only thing I would have done differently would be to blast the same types of paint/coatings no point doing one point on a roof then switching a over to a stone guard base and trying to compare the two, though that said the smaller hand guns are going to take forever regardless and would recommend only using maybe after a car has been blasted and welded up any repayment patches, give a blast with a smaller gun instead of bringing out the big guns lol but great video and great Infomation and presentation
