I wish this existed years ago! 

If I was to use that block, i'd be taking out the RGB lol so I too appreciate it's not stuck on.

I was thinking that, AND I was thinking "hey what if you need to disassemble the block to de-gunkify it after using cheap coolant?" You wouldn't want it getting soaked while working with a wet surface.

also if the piece that it's sticked on is made from metal, leaving the tape on can prevent it from shorting... because the strip has also contacts on the back side

Or just in case the RGB LEDs die for any reason

that's me, 3090 SE block, EK 1200 block and FLT 80 RGB off XD

True. Keeps my 5800X cool with a 240 rad. A bitch to mount, though 🤣

@@Lord_RFAS I already had a bunch of computer cooling hardware, so I grabbed some thumb screws and springs from another cooler to mount mine. The included screws and springs are dimensioned awfully, or at least they were when I ordered mine, if you put the springs under too much tension they'd just pop over the screw heads and make a mess. Works fine if you just put an M4 washer between the spring and the screw cap, but then they could at least have included the washers... I'm not saying the Barrow product was perfect, it has some issues. For example three ports is really convenient, but they're located a bit too close together for larger fittings, which is unfortunate for me since I prefer thick wall soft tubing. But for small form factor builds, being able to eschew a separate pump and splitting reservoir duty between the radiator and the CPU block lets you watercool in some very tight spaces indeed. And watercooling in turn lets you shrink some cards down tremendously (though that mainly applies to Nvidia reference cards, which can be tricky to get in Russia). A watercooled 4090 is as long as a RX6600. Thanks to the Barrow block, you can squeeze a 7950XT and a 4090 into an absolutely tiny SFF machine with a single 120mm radiator and a 3krpm fan to get an incredibly powerful and noisy machine that's still small enough to conveniently carry around, which is precisely what I did years ago. Loved it. EKs block is better designed, but I'll always have a soft spot for my Barrow, which did this same genius thing, which fits on both Intel and AMD, and which is backwards compatible all the way back to AM2. That's not EKs style though.

That's right, 10 seconds into the video I realized that this was done by Barrow years ago already.

I used an alphacool one years ago in a sff build I did for a friend of mine and it worked great!

I bought the barrow one, but for some reason the thermals were awful, even when re-seated multiple times, bough a CPU block only, then an EK pump/res combo, all high temp issue were gone. Probably i got a faulty unit or something wasn’t right, but also left a bad taste :/, so no more these lesser known brands.

Jay should know, he built an SFF build with a similar block/pump combo years ago in the last studio lol

Same here.

An eisbaer is the block i put in my sister's am4 rig 5800/6800xtx+2x240s in the ghost s1 with tophats.

@@jacobhurst7275 I have the 280mm version.. its been great on an older 2800x, but id like to jump up to a 7800x3d or even a 7900x.. do you think that that pump rad combo is capable of handling the upgrade I want to do ?

@Karl with a K EK Water cooling mediocre products with a hefty price tag but youtubers are shilling so hard for that company that they can keep prices high. People will buy and defend products from that company anyway.

@Karl with a K Even the pumps with reservoirs attached are not technically self priming. It isn't exactly hard to design a loop and place the pump so it gets filled first. I think with this product that is going to be slightly harder thats all...

Two words. Modultra Lobo

@@ps3guy22 That looks great, they state about the cooling of the pump electronics in the description too. It would be good to see some comparison analysis with these pumpblocks. Not only cooling performance but also flow rate ect...

Those RGBs come on a roll and you just cut them to the length you need. And it's probably easier for EK to buy one SKU of RGBs and only peel the adhesive when the situation calls for it. And it would avoid assembly boo-boos like someone grabbing the wrong roll, making a bunch that aren't adhesive, and finding out later they were meant for an adhesive application.

@@phydeux Sounds likely. I have an EK block and I was actually frustrated that I couldn't easily remove the unicorn puke lights from it that only light up the EK logo on the nickel plated top, so I had to carefully roll up the cable inside of it so it wasn't just floating around my motherboard on a very carefully done build. I would have liked if it was that easy to take off... though I wouldn't have bought the clear plastic one designed to be MORE light up.

Yeah. As long as the thing isnt like slipping out of the block because they didn't use the adhesive it only makes the thing easier to service down the line. Also, it might provide a little bit of tension relief so its less likely to get damaged if it gets yanked. And at the same time, those that dont want rgb can easily remove it and not have to deal with an extra cable at all, but if they end up changing their mind they can just stick it right back in that slot without any serious hassle. I understand the gripe with the captive screw falling out, but I personally view their decision to not use the adhesive as a plus. I rarely comment on vids, and this is something so minor, but for some reason their reaction irked the hell outta me lmao

Thank you !! all i want is a video comparing the Eisbear pump.. not the LT small one but the normal big size one.. i have it hooked up to its original 280mm rad and its been awesome.. Id really like to know where it sits compared to Asutek pumps and really expensive pumps like this that only fit one type of socket...

I would imagine the RGB strips they are sourcing all come with that backing, but they don't use it since other parts keep it in place and it makes that metal block easier to clean without damaging the RGB strip.

​@@Sgt_SealCluberThis, and also bc of making customer service easier. Imagine if they were glued into the block and they had to rip them out every time they encounter a broken rgb strip. Would be terrible during quality checking/sorting out bad products before shipping as well as repairing warranty/rma products.

Jup, I have one from Alpha, cost $65 bucks and has been happily cooling a 3800xt and a 1660ti for more than a year now. It also has the advantage that it has an actual reservoir in it, really great option for a budget build. I literally did my entire loop for about $30 more than this EK block costs.

good point!

also, it doesn't go anywhere once it is inside it only costs time to get the peel off during manufacturing.

Nouvolo Aquanaut Extreme was very good. All the port options on the EK one though is really nice.

Barrow have been doing these for a couple of years

its because nobody wants to get sued by the absolute clowns at asetek. they patent trolled the aio which is absolutely stupid considering just about EVERY FREAKIN CAR since water cooled engines became a thing uses pump on block cooling! asetek never invented a damn thing, they're patent troll clowns. they blocked all water cooling innovation. hopefully they collapse soon enough

The barrow version works great and has been available for years and it works great.

same

Not to hate, but the best gaming CPU 7800X3D draws 65 watts in games, and a 4090 is hugely overkill coolers, tbh whole 40-series is like my 4070ti. Slight undervolt and its no problem. Maybe if you did live in a very warm country water cooling would start to help.

Ive been looking at all sorts of mix and matched stuff. at first I was like I want it all one brand but no I'm going with a mix because I want price:perf at how much these parts cost! lots of good "third party" and cheap brands that offer similar performance to the name brands. if I have learned anything in my 15 plus years of system building and repair, it is to plan, plan plan.

Especially considering a big aircooler is under $75 compared to a piece of a custom loop at $319.

With rads, fitting, pump, reservior, cpu and gpu block I estimated 600-900€ for me...

I would be tempted to just run with the fill line for a few days to let the bubbles clear, then suck out any excess water from the line, remove it and plug the port. Then just run it as an AIO. It might need topping off every so often, but that is no different to maintaining an open loop really.

These days it's mostly an aesthetic thing. Sure, you might get marginally better results with a custom loop, if you really plan it out. But when I say marginally, I definetely mean marginally. If the goal is to keep your hardware cool generally, modern AIOs will do the job just fine. If you're into amazing looking PCs, a custom loop is nearly inevitable. And to make it worse, for the really great looking ones, you're looking at hard tubes and probably distro plates. Which I originally was going for. But that just adds another 250 bucks or so, and at some point I'm just not willing to throw money at the system. Currently on the path to say "screw high end" and go with a decent midrange PC and spend the rest of the money I'd have thrown at a high end system on a nice vacation with the missus.

@@noneofyourbusiness4294 aesthetics is definitely a part of it, but for all of the people where I've installed custom loops the biggest concern was silence. My own system runs effectively passively when I'm not gaming. Zero moving parts, apart from a D5 that's in an anti-vibration mount. But this invariably comes with the inconvenience of an externally mounted radiator.

@@fermitupoupon1754 so, what was the actual usecase for the people you built systems for? Generally speaking, they probably have the cash and dedication for proper noise cancelling headphones. I mean, you weren't building a lot of custom loops for office/media PCs, right? The sound level of gaming PCs is one of the dumbest debates there is. Like sure, having your system run quiet and cool is great. It's something to look forward to. I get it. But man doesn't it matter if you spend 200 bucks on a decent set of headphones compared to a 600 bucks and upwards custom loop. If noise is your first concern, a custom loop is not the top priority.

@@noneofyourbusiness4294 It's generally not so much for the person wearing the headphones as much as it is for the others in the room. For example a friend of mine lives in a 1 bedroom apartment. So his computer is in the living room. But while he's sitting there gaming, his girlfriend wants to watch TV and not be annoyed by a loud gaming PC. Another guy is a VFX artist who lives in a tiny studio apartment in the most expensive city in the country. He doesn't like a noisy computer next to his head while that thing renders scenes overnight. But he has no other room to put either his PC or his bed in. Added benefit in this case is we kept the hoses slightly on the long side, allowing him to put the radiator outside the window during summer, dumping all that rendering heat outside.

@@noneofyourbusiness4294 once you've been jump-scared by a child suddenly appearing next to you while gaming in the middle of the night you'll think twice of you want to put headphones on. 😆 But apart from that there are other reasons why I don't want to wear headphones all the time, and i want my system to be quiet enough to have to wear any. Thankfully today's high end systems still can be cooled really quietly as long as overclocking isn't getting too extreme.

Very hard to get hold off, backordered since forever.

he should use the term liquid, not fluid but it's obvious what he means

what kind of issues this you get?

@@rogermichto6359 Tolerances mostly, things not aligning up. It has happened with at least 90% of items I buy from them, personally it does not effect my PC because I like to mod and I'll just do whatever it takes to make it work, but people who are new to this and pay a premium for EK thinking they are the best, it's a issue if screws do not line up or a bracket mount is mis-aligned you know?