Sounds like a great thing for BRS to get into. Come up with “generic” versions of nitrofurazone and formalin. That and methylene blue. The old school meds are super useful and getting harder to find all the time. Yes formalin is potentially dangerous, and should be handled with great care. But guess what, lots of reefing stuff and even the animals we keep are dangerous.
Formalin , formaldehyde and methylene blue. All carcinogenic. Methylene blue falls in the category of vital dyes. Just noting we have organisms that are live that we keep and have potential toxicity too, is not an equivalent to actively and deliberately using another substance that we know is a known dangerous carcinogenic product.
I had a velvet outbreak 50 days into quarantine, so 14 days is not even close to enough. My standard observation period is 60 days. To treat that outbreak I put the fish one by one in freshwater while observing them under a stereo microscope. It took about 30 minutes until all parasites had fallen of a fish and it was like a snow storm in the cup at end of the treatment. After that initial clean-up I did tank transfer with formalin baths in between every other day for 2 weeks, followed by another 60 days of observation quarantine.
Everytime I have treated or added my fish to QT they die, to much stress. Make sure one of your first fish is a cleaner wrasse and ensure you have a cleaner shrimp. Ensure your fish have a healthy mixed diet and they will be ok. Also water parameters is key. Healthy reef means healthy fish. Every single fox and tang I have added had ich, took a week for them to settle in, woke up in mornings with ich, cleaners sorted that out and they all survived and is super happy and healthy now. This is what worked for me
Don’t take this the wrong way but if your fish are dying in QT either your missing something or the fish you are receiving are badly compromised. I found fish lived happily in storage tubs with an air stone (2 months) whilst my tank fallowed. This was after 6 days in meds to treat heavy ich with no fooding. Just vac out waste, do 100% water changes every 3 days or so and add Seachem Stability. The fish get used to the process of being moved, and their new environment as long as food and water is good.
What do I do if I have a reef tank with fish corals and invertebrates, have ich, and do not own a quarantine tank or know anyone else who does? I’ve tried Herbtana but I’ve went through 3 bottles and it keeps coming back
There is something called Polyp Lab. You can treat the entire tank; CORAL and invertebrates SAFE! No need to take any fish out or quarantine. You can treat the entire tank. Doesn’t stress the coral. Knocked out velvet is just few days
I'm currently using this. I have been on the Humblefish forum and the main recommendation there outside the fallow period is H2O2 dosing. Since Polyplab is hydroxy salts, I believe theyre very related. I'm doing mplyplab medic now and will try H202 dosing next if it's still an issue.
Yes but the rock and sand will never be good for a reef tank just something to keep in mind and sometimes you should let anyone know if you end up selling or giving away them away so they don’t pollute their tank
Can I ask a question for Elliot. I have watched all your 80/20 videos and can I say that they are great here is the question. If you at Marine Collections are using these products and at the doses in question.. how do you maintain a good source of Nitrifying bacteria in your system's . I was considering how if you were to, need to run fallow and house fish elsewhere ?? If you transfer say base rock or Bioballs surely the copper and other meds will destroy all bacteria. How do you mature fresh bacterial colonies to sustain your water quality in the say to coin your phrase a horse trough . Would you keep adding say Dr Tims or ATM Colony with new bio media.. Just wondered how Elliott manages this Thank you. I lost an 8 year old reef fish and corals over several weeks with a truly stubborn ICK strain and never want to experience this again . Like you said the tank was fallow but keeping the fish healthy in a large plastic box was the issue for me. Thanks for your thoughts and kind regards Andrew Arnott
I disagree with ideal and doing my own way main tank… ? Without taking out the fish main aquarium. People list carefully .. the fish already stress from shipping or whatever you get the fish by you taking fish of main aquarium tank going to over stress fish and die and guests what this guy are not going replace your fish. But good luck, if you don’t eat believe me because my hippo tang and clown tang healthy so far things I’m doing and hippo tang are baby
What about raising the temperature during the fallow period? Humblefish reports that you can do a 14 day fallow period for eradicating ich in the display tank if you raise the water temperature to at least 86F. 30 days @86F to be safe, or 45 days @ 86F+ to be super duper safe. The idea behind riasing the temperature is that is accelerates the ich parasite's life cycle. humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/new-ich-fallow-period.1824/
I had a SEVERE ich outbreak (my Tuskfish and other fish looked exactly like the Tuskfish in this video) and did an 8 week fallow but raised my temp to 30 degrees C for 2-3 weeks. Also deep cleaned the tank blowing out all the rocks and vacuumed the sand. Also no lights. Only have two leather corals which totally bleached but are back to normal. Fish have been back in the tank a few months now and I believe ich is eradicated.
@@insanity4224 that's very exciting to hear... I'm about 3 weeks in to my fallow period after the FIRST fish I put in the tank had ich. I raised the temp to 87, I'm not sure what that is in C.
