This is how your educate DIYers and young rookie contractors. There was nothing in this that wasn't cut and dry. You've just helped me out immensely good sir. Thank you
Thank you so. Much Sir. This is a relief, a great relief to me. I have seen a bunch of videos on this same title and how to remove a load bearing wall and replace it with a beam. But non of them really mentioned about the natures and the makes of the roof whether it would stand on itself allowing you to do changes on the walls under. Thank you so much again.
This was really informative and I appreciate you! My house was built in stages starting in 1904. I wanted to take out a closet and was really confused and didn't want to mess it up. Looking at the attic after watching this it made perfect sense what was and wasn't. Thank you!!
Thank you sir! You area great mentor to explain in details and in a practical manner the complex issues related to structural dilemmas. So easy to understand it now. 🤟
When considering which walls to remove, please add sheer wall(s) as well. They are not load bearing, but provide the necessary shear strength to not allow movement (from wind for instance).
I love this video. Whew! I was so worried that my contractor ripped out a load-bearing wall. I have a truss manufacturer one-story house. The wall was in the middle end attached to the exterior wall to expand the bathroom
I'm an apprentice carpenter. My journeyman is gonna be pleasantly surprised when I actually understand him when we start doing this. 😅 Thank you for the detailed enough explanation for me on load-bearing walls! 🤘
Great explanation video Tim, thank you. I watched a bunch of videos and yours was the first that got right to the point and didn't get caught up in every outlier scenario like basements and second stories etc. So my 24' x 72' rectangle shaped house with modern trusses (across the short dimension) with the W web and gussets could literally be emptied of all interior walls right? I just want to remove one kitchen wall that ends abruptly at the end of the kitchen.
It's been said, this video was a quick to understand the load bearing. I appreciate it. Is it necessary to get an engineer study for replacing load bearing walls with a beam, once the wall is removed?
Thanks so much! I recently purchased an old, 1946 house with rafters that initially did not have any bracing besides collar ties. It looks like they added purlin bracing later and I think it’s caused some drywall cracking and sagging. In the case where you don’t have load bearing internal walls, but still need to add support to prevent a sagging roof, what should I do? I know theoretically that the continuous joists should distribute that load to the exterior walls, but there been some obvious deflection where the bracing was added. Patch drywall and move on?
You can add stiffbacks on the underside of the rafters and the top side of ceiling joists then run bracing from stiffback to stiffback. The stiffbacks will distribute the load and help with sagging.
Excellent explanation, however I have a question. I haven’t find a similar video explaining how to determine a load bearing wall - when it is under an H steel beam, that is supported by metal posts. Could you post a video about it?
The steel beam is supporting what is above. The load is transferred through the beam to the posts. So anything that is below the beam would not be load bearing.
I have a question about cape cod style houses go. On deed it says 1.8 floors. Upstairs has 2 finished bedrooms with approx 4 ft knee walls and nothing in between. First floor ceiling joists butt up against eachother with wall directly below and steel beam in basement the entire length of house. But wall on other half of first floor is offset approx 3ft. I am not sure what style truss are in the attic but house was built in 1942 and im not sure that type of truss was available back then. Because there is 2 bedrooms upstairs im assuming that the walls below would be load bearing, especially in snowy area. Thanks for the great video and any information you may have on these style houses would be greatly appreciated.
If the rafter has gussets it will be a truss rafter, the weight will be on exterior walls. If stick built it will not have gussets but load will still be on exterior walls. The only walls considered load bearing are the ones that carry weight. In most cases the weight is carried by beams, floor joists, or ceiling joists. If a wall is load bearing the ends of the floor/ceiling joists will rest on the wall. It sounds like the wall you described is load bearing. The wall sitting on top of the steel beam will be load bearing.
You cannot remove the wall with the webbing landing on it unless you replace with a beam, the wall to it's right can be removed because no webbing or ceiling joist ends land on it
Hi Tim, looking at your drawing on left ----where wall in the middle is no bearing wall. I have structure just like that, where ceiling jois are NOT splitted in the middle. Question: Is it safe to remove a wall in the middle? Again, ceiling jois go from one end to the other end. please advise.
If the walls are close enough together that they don't need a splice the weight is still on the exterior walls. Removing a wall is not going to be a problem.
Mine is a similar set up the left drawing. I want to take out a wall in my kitchen to open it up. Is it this safe for the joists to run all the way across 25 ft?
Hello, I have a 1978 split level house with a manufactured truss (same shape as your video) gable roof. Since it has a basement, does same principals apply? The living room has a 2 ft jut out on long side of house if that matter? The wall going is going perpendicular to the trusses and isn’t in the direct center of house.
The two ft just out is called a cantilever, it has no affect on interior wall. If you have truss rafters the interior wall is not going to be load bearing.
What if I have Truss ceiling. But the Ceiling joists do have a splice in the middle bcz of the roof width. Is the wall underneath the spliced ceiling joist load bearing ?
So your drawling on the left is very similar to what I am working with. Want to remove a closet and the webbing is at the exact spot before the front closet wall.
What if the roof is trussed, such as your left hand image, but the ceiling joist part is made of 2 pieces of timber joined together with a gusset that sits over an internal wall through the centre of the house?
If there is webbing attaching it to the top chord, the wall is non load bearing. Look at my video about rafter terms, if the building is wide there will be a splice in the middle
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Yes there is webbing. In fact trusses look exactly like your diagram. The building is approximately 7 metres wide. Presume it's spliced because you cannot get lumber 7 metres long. So I don't need to worry about supporting it where it is spliced?
3:54 What if there was ceiling joist split? (as in, each joist is 1 solid piece from exterior wall to exterior wall). Would that middle wall still somehow be load bearing?
If supported by webbing, no. It would depend on length if not supported. A longer board may have some deflection unless it's wider. If not sure ask a professional.
yes, as long as they are rated to carry a load. depending on the length of the wall you may need to buttress it, or you might use cinder blocks with the holes so you can fill some of the holes with mortar and add rebar to reinforce the wall.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 sir thank you so much for reply me in my country pakistan most of people in load bearing house construction only using red bricks without colmn and beam so i am thinking to use same method with concrete solid blocks without column and beam with low buget
If there is no splice, the walls in between the walls that have the joist ends are probably not load bearing. But sometimes in order to use smaller ceiling joists they make a wall in between load bearing. You can check the load bearing capacity of the joist using a span data chart.
Might be a stupid question, but I want to make sure…if I remove my drywall and see there is a gap above the to plate, it is safe to assume I am not dealing with a load-bearing wall?
That truss supporting interior wall you state is not bearing a load load actually bears a load since it supports the beam above it since the beam above it deflects downward due to the loads from the two truss members it supports. Removing that wall removes the bearing it provides and that causes the beam above it to deflect downward.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 Left. Although the wall in the left drawing does not bear as much of the roof load as the wall in the right diagram it bears a significant more load than the outer walls.
@@hydrostatics4977 the wall is not load bearing. The truss rafters are designed to transfer load to the outer walls. You could install the rafters and dry it in then install interior walls. There may be some deflection over time but it is not load bearing.
@@timpalmer-logstolumber1999 What is the basis for your understanding that the beam isn't bearing any of the load from the truss? As a licensed engineer in the field we use structural mechanics to make these determinations.
