245,000 miles and multiple times across the country thru crazy terrain and storms with regular maintenance my 2006 RAV is still kickin' with absolutely no issues whatsoever. I can thank the 'road gods' and the engineers at Toyota for this great rig.
These are some of the best suv ever built they are running stronger then all the newers ones along with the old school highlanders and old Honda CR-V s
2010 Rav v4 Japan 205k. Gas cap once, Coolant top hard plastic hose once. Engine still sounds the same! - Quiet. Full synthetic oil @ 3.5 to 4k. Rideshare driver. Oil loss about 1qt 3500 miles. Also front sway bar links - bad roads!
My girlfriend has a 2008 Rav4 with the 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE motor. There was a factory recall at the time for burning oil but the repair replaced the defective parts with the same defective parts. The machined holes in the piston in the oil control ring grove were drilled too small. Clogging up when oil change intervals were not at every 5,000 miles and if standard oil was used or a different viscosity was used. The holes would clog allowing oil into the combustion chamber and starve oil to the wrist pin. I replaced the piston, rings, connecting rods and wrist pins with aftermarket performance parts and I soaked the catalytic converters in drain industrial cleaner to remove the harsh deposits without harming the catalytic substrate. Rear adjustable tie rods also have the same awful repair. Toyota dealership replaced the failed part with the same faulty part but epoxied a sleeve so the rear toe can't be adjusted. Moog or any other credible suspension part manufacturer have better parts with properly machined rods, sleeves, jamb nuts and grease fittings for long life adjustability. Hope this helps anyone who's Rav is still burning oil. For the 2AZ-FE engine only!
Wow. Lots of the issues you pointed out are issues in many other vehicles. Timing belt looked brand new on 99 Miata, but front timing gear seal had sludge when we took a look. Also, the suspension links were needed because they were rusted and bolts were stripped while trying to remove old coilovers to put in some new ones.
2012 V6 rav here- the ONLY repairs that I have had to do in 200000k miles are the O2 sensor, front sway bar link, front speed sensor, and ignition coils. Other than that it has only been maintenance.
Exactly, not even alignment related! Obviously this is someone who is not mechanically inclined but restating others who have already found issues. He is simply summing up issues.
Yup- I have a 2012 V6 4wd with 157,000 miles and I've only done brakes, tires, fluid changes and spark plugs. Haven't touched any sensors or suspension parts yet. It's been a great vehicle.
I just picked up a 2012 with 180,000 kms on her 6cylinder engine for $800. She won’t come out of 4x4 lock and front wipers won’t engage but the back one do. Love the rav4 and I hope to get 2 or 3 years out of her!!
I was looking into one, but I heard stuff about gas pedals getting stuck pretty often on 4 or 5 different years. Same way with the brakes or random acceleration
2012 rav4 v4 4wd here Only have put 10k miles on it and honestly its a really good car. Spacious and easy to park anywhere. Cant wait to take it offroad
@@RobertBeedle Ha ha, could be- like many, since the coming of Covid, I haven’t used it as much as I used to. I had new tyres put on recently. It is surprisingly reliable
I've seen so many videos talking about third generation Toyota issues and when they talk about specific issues they don't mention whether it's in the four or the six-cylinder variant. I was very concerned about the oil burning issue mentioned and you were the only video out of about 10 that I watched that mentioned that it was in the 4-cylinder. Thank you very much for being specific and not just giving a regurgitation of everyone else's video!
You failed to mention the 06-09 V6s had problems with the cam gears after around 150k miles causing oil to drain from the valve covers every time the engine is off and then every time you start the engine dry and it rattles for a few seconds and over time the wear and tear will eventually cause the heads to need to be replaced.
@funkywarrior3906 yes the high oil burning eventually causes engine failure. Only way to prevent it is to rebuild the engine with pistons that have the updated design.
Some questions guys: 1) gen3 2.0 are reliable...?? 2) Also they are thirsty for gasoline? 3) trunk space is big enough? Help your friend from Greece brothers, thanks
So much depends on a factor everyone knows about but which is not given adequate mention. A vehicle’s ultimate returns rest on driving habits and maintenance as much as on basic design and construction. It is the total package that counts. A neighbor’s fairly recent, expensive Range Rover has given more trouble than my lowly, ancient RAV4. But in part it is his fault, an F1 driving style and a lofty avoidance of routine checks
Just had this discussion 10 minutes ago with a friend, 100% agree. I concede I've spent money on my 2001 Toyota Echo (currently @ 157k) but not an excessive amount & it runs great. Recently took 4,000 mile road trip. Have always driven it easy.
My grandma bought a 2011 4 cyl, 4wd, under my recommendation. She has put roughly 150k miles on it and we've only done basic maintenance. Car currently has 297k miles. Shifts amazing, runs great. We're just now at a point where we need to look into the timing components (something in there is noisy) We do have oil consumption issues and cat issues. But at this mileage, it's expected. Would highly recommend one of these if you can get one with sub 200k.
I had a 2011 Rav4, bought it at 120k miles, started burning oil like 10k after that. Drove it to 240k miles, by the end it was burning like 9 quarts every 5,000 miles. I would just have a 5qt jug, and when I had to hit the brakes hard for whatever reason, the low oil like would flicker on on my dashboard. There were times I would test if I needed to put some in by slamming the brakes a little bit lol. And by the time the light comes on when braking, definitely way too low. I probably made it worse by not keeping it up all the time. But... 80k miles burning oil, engine was PERFECT. Never had a single issue with it. The transmission failed, otherwise who knows how long I could've gotten out of the motor before it fully went.
Have a 2011 rav4 202k miles and definitely burns oil. I just make a habit to check my oil every few days and top it off low. Has been this way since 100k or as long as I can remember. Other than that it’s amazing. Would take another one of these today.
Who complains for these car model are cheap people not just cheap but dirty cheap ppl My 2009 Toyota r4 my baby never fails me it’s a monster on a snow. Nothing can stop this car. Of course you have to maintain it and put some money after 150,000 miles or get a new car and stay for five years on a bill. Good luck.
I've got two significant issues that weren't mentioned. My RAV4 is a 2012 4WD V6 model and issues that have come about include a water pump failure and E-Brake cable issues. Luckily for me it was apparent when the water pump was going out. You can hear a sound of rattling marbles or kind of like a gurgling sound. It sounded different from normal idle. Apparently it's a common issue and it's not an easy job to replace. Cost me about a grand at a shop. The E-Brake issue I have yet to get fixed. Apparently the parts are back ordered from Toyota. This issue came about after driving home in a blizzard with a lot of snow fall. I had applied the E-Brake upon getting home and I left it out in the driveway overnight. Next morning, the E-Brake was stuck on and it wound up breaking free after a quarter mile of driving. Unfortunately this caused issues where the vehicle has bad vibration at high speeds. The E-Brake is also non-functioning. I've been neglecting to investigate it myself due to the fact that the rear brakes are a hybrid style- disc main brakes and drum emergency brakes. My dad's JK is the same way and they're just a real pain in the ass to work on. If anyone has any insight on this issue and knows a good solution, please let me know. I'm not a huge fan of driving around without a working E-Brake.
I have a 2010 with 200k miles and I’ve never had any issues so these problems are due to age and high mileage and this I’ll happen to every car with age and mileage and not because of defects or quality problems.
I have a 2006 RAV4 with the 2AZ-FE engine and have the burning oil. Have to check the oil constantly, since it burns a quart for every 200 miles or so. I've had the cylinders and spark plugs replaced a few times. Now I seem to be dealing with some sort of ERG/catalyst system issue.
This kind of 2nd hand car buyers guide is excellent material! I know quite a bit the Rav4 and you are straight to the point with the main issues. I'll check out your channel to see if I can find myself the most reliable 4x4 with 3-5 years
Hey man, you said you know about rav4, so I have a question.. Man I recently bought a 2007 and I’m finding the fuel efficiency so poor!! My car is doing like 7km/L highway Is that normal??
@@crisg2348 nope, you should be getting 10-12 on the highway. I own a bit older 2002 2.0. If the engine seems to be running OK, check for anything that causes friction, such as stuck brake calippers (check for exessive heat), low tyre pressure or bad wheel bearing. Also check engine lights is often meams bad oxygen sensor, that makes the engine run rich, but from experience should still be right above 10 km/l The newer versions are known to burn oil. The video describes well a lot of other engine issues
I have a 2012 Rav4 2.5L base model. The transmission is doing a strange metal sceatching howling noise. Bought this new, did a transmission oil change at 25k miles, then again at 60k miles.It developed at 65k miles. I now have 75k miles, and it's so damn annoying. Probably needs a flush.
You sure it’s the transmission? I have the same vehicle and I’m sure I’m experiencing the same sounds you are . The sound started around the same mileage as you but I’m now at 202k. I have heard the growling metal sound the whole way. I have gotten it checked out but I think it’s design flaw but I love this car otherwise. Has lasted me many miles and still running it everyday.
They seem to all have some sort of whine. If its not very loud and doesn't get worse, I wouldn't worry about it. If you are getting a hawling noise from the back however, its almost certainly your viscous coupler bearings.
Only do a drain and fill one time only every 6 years or 60,000 miles whichever comes first. Use OEM Transmission fluid only. If your fluid is filthy go ahead a buy a Toyota oem transmission filter, but no need to replace after that as long as you flush every 6 years or 60,000 miles. One time only drain and fill!
Had the 2008 and the 2011 with the V6, Sport and Limited respectively. The only compelling reason to buy a 3rd gen Rav4 is the V6 engine, PERIOD. These vehicles are so basic and dated (even during their time) that there's no compelling reason to own a 3rd gen in the 4 cylinder over the 4th generation which is lightyears ahead in terms of interior upgrades and comfort. If you're looking to buy a 2006 to 2012 model with the 4cyl, just buy a 2013 or 2014 instead. You'll be much much happier. Things to note about 3rd gen Rav4's. Oxygen sensors will fail around 100k miles like clockwork. Both of mine suffered from oxygen sensor failures around 100k miles. Easy and cheap fix fortunately, which I did myself. Some things I disliked about the cars - very basic, and cheap interior, even on the limited model. Seats are uncomfortable on long road trips, stereo speakers are awful, road and wind noise are far above average, and the ride is both models is very stiff. The 06-08 models had no button to turn off the stability/traction control system (AWD models) which is a huge con if you drive in snow and ice. To turn it off you have to activate the hand brake and pump the brake pedal multiple times. It was a constant problem on my 08 Rav4 while driving the country roads of South Dakota in the winter. Thing I loved about the cars is the storage space, 3500lb towing capability (which I used frequently) and the engine performance. The V6 engine definitely gets you up to highway speed adequately. These are decent vehicles. I got rid of both of them around 120k miles. I dunno, to me they didn't feel like cars that would last 200k+ miles like many people seem to believe. The powertrain is good, but everything on the interior is so cheap that It would fall apart long before the engine and transmission.
Toyota interiors usually last a long time even if they seems cheap or basic except for the 2005-2009 avalons with cracked dashes. We had a tacoma with over 200k miles and over 20 years old and the interior still looked like new and our 08 rav4 with 176k miles interior is in great shape too! Toyota doesn't make junk!
I have a 2009 Kia Borrego with over 250K on it, and i didn't even change what you said for the Rav4, the Borrego are great reliable SUVs, that are way cheaper than used Toyota's.
I do not know much about the Borrego, but I will say some Kia can last close to 300k miles. They are made cheaper and are more fragile, for instance, if it overheats in any significant degree the motor looses half its life.
@@AutoMotivate mine still purrs like a kittten, i outlasted all the Toyota owners on my street lol ,they all sold them, when they started to put money on them.
mate if you got a speach impediment (like not being able to prounounce R) then maybe look for another way to make living instead hosting a youtube channel ? just saying i got 10secs into this and turned it off
