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@B977e sounds more like a bad car owner issue. Should I post the video of me doing a oil change on my 2003 civic that I’ve owned since new and you can see underneath the car is beautiful? How come my cars don’t rot and I live on the ocean?
@@FloydLangston I own 8 cars. None of my cars rust. Fluid film and once a week car washes and I drive from cape cod to Boston 5 days a week in the winter and deal with salt from the ocean 365. It’s lazy ownership
I agree. Had an 09 Corolla biggest piece of crap I owned. It was made in the Fremont plant though, learned that lesson. The 11, 12, 13 was better. Had cold start rattle, oil burning
The thing is some engines are designed to burn oil. It acts as a lubricant for the rings. My second generation Prius does, I just top it up. It's 18 years old, original battery and totally reliable.
My mom had Subaru cars from the late 70's through the 90's. She loved the Legacy and never had issues of burning or losing oil. Never a blown head gasket or a failed clutch either.
My Daughter's 2015 Legacy sedan (bought used with 58K miles) is remarkable. I swear it has as much carrying capacity as her mother's Outback. Fold down the back seat and it is a cavern. Plus, the interior is very comfortable and the ride is refined. Sedans are great.
I pop the hood and check all the fluids once a week on my cars. My dad used to check his truck every morning before he left for work but there were no computers in cars then.
We live in NY and our 32 year old cars aren't structurally rusted at all. You must be referring to upstate cars that are poorly maintained by the idiots who own them.
Brother has this car it’s not terrible he’s got 130k on it in Pennsylvania never garage kept no serious rust just superficial like the video. The big problem is the oil consumption but typically if you change the oil every 3k it won’t get under the low on the stick. So do it every 3k miles not the factory recommended 7-10k
@@melancholypuppy3595worst part is that it'll clog up the cats with carbon unless it's synthetic, in which case it'll clog up the cats with synthetic carbon.
Scotty mentioned a very good point about the automatics and CVTs with the vibration issue at higher speed when they get older. So, go with a manual transmission and be happy for a life.
We own the same car 2014 six cylinder version. Now retired with limited income, and my wife has developed some back issues, we don't travel very far anymore. The plan is until the wheels fall off. Hey Scotty still have the 2013 Fiat 500 grocery getter.
Buy a Volvo and say goodbye bye to backache. I drove Toyotas for 40 years and had the worst backache. I probably spent $60k on chiropractor and other doctors. 7 years ago, I bought a 2014 Volvo xc60, and my back feels great as in my early 30s. I will never buy Japanese cars again. Volvo has been bulletproof, and I have 80k miles on it.
Scotty, thank you for a fair, contextual complaint about this Subaru while mentioning other brands that have similar known issues. *As opposed to repeatedly kicking Subaru in the cratch as if they were somehow disproportionately bad. They're not. Subaru is on my "trusted Japanese vehicles list" (along with Toyota, Nissan Trucks, Honda, and Mazda). It's fair to bust on a brand proportionately. Thanks again Scotty!
As a Subaru owner, I only find it fair as well. Nothing man made is ever going to be perfect, no matter how good something might be. And especially for a car that’s 11 years old, and a northern car, the legacy in the video is living to the test of time.
Great examination under the bottom, for rust. :). Based, on the area, of cold weather conditions! Good Video Scotty . Looks like a well kept vehicle, for a 2013. 🌟🧡🌟
Subarus seems like a quality car, but there are way too many examples of their engines burning oil. Many people can't trust them or bring themself to buy one. Also, the idea of using "caulk" vs. traditional gaskets during engine assembly. Trouble awaits. Other good choices out there, w/AWD, too, if that's a must.
@@user-do9ir8lv2m You literally just watched a video of a Subaru burning oil? Dry oil pan and lower engine means no leaking / engine burning off oil. Frankanderson's concern was about Caulk vs Gaskets which isn't a burn oil issue, it's an engine oil leak issue.
@@spotdog can you simply change the silicone crap to a conventional gasket - maybe adding sealant also - when changing the silicone gasket crap? And why not create a class-action lawsuit to get Subaru to drop the silicone gasket crap -
I have had a lot of cars during 50 years of driving,it has usually been older cars and almost every car has been burning oil like that Subaru and even worse but I have never had a engine problem but I have of course checked the oil regularly. Not checking the Oil is the number one reason for engine failure. ,
Subaru are not the premium car they advertise. The have a long history of burning oil, leaking oil, and blown head gaskets. Subaru didn't admit to the problems and resisted helping their customers. Subaru is on my never buy list.
My daughter just traded her Subaru crosscheck that had a small oil leak but the dealer told her it would be 8 grand to repair . She also had blower problems . The oill leak was probably the glued on engine components without the use of gaskets and the breakdown of that material
I'm not a sedan kind of person but if I was, I'd consider buying this used even though it has the piston ring issue. That can be addressed, either properly with an overhaul or by topping off the oil. But the rest of the car appears to be in good shape with no apparently major issues and some minor ones that can be addressed.
Too bad...Subaru Legacy is a quality choice for a sedan for anyone living in a snowy state. By far the best all wheel drive system of any sedan, Subaru is legendary for their AWD. Getting to the point where Toyota / Honda / BMW / Mercedes / Hyundai are going to be the only real choices for sedan lovers.
Am shocked the bottom is dry. They leak around the cam covers after a while due to using silicone instead of gaskets. The front sub frame like to rust away. I learned both the hard way. Will never get another Subie.
I don't know if it is true or not, but I was told a few years ago from someone that had an under warranty car, that a dealership would NOT repair a oil burner car untill it was burning oil faster than 1 qt every 750 miles. It was considered ok. I saw that car and the owner was not happy. Don't ask. the brand slips my mind at this moment 😊.
Don’t knock the Toyota Corolla, I have a 2020 with 76k on it and it’s a dream to drive. I’ve owned it for over a year and all I done to it was 4 new tires and a battery. I average around 32mpg both in town and highway. Highway alone is almost 40mpg, so it’s cheap to drive. Thanks Scotty, my father in law saw this car and was his dying wish we bought it.
If I were Scotty, I would pull those plastic panels if you can. If Moisture is trapped under that panel, well, you'll see rust. Sometimes it may not build up as much on the painted parts because they are periodically cleaned (presumably) if the car was washed properly, but the plastic panels can be known to trap salt and other things and may be hiding things. This is somewhat why I am not necessarily happy that Toyota puts these panels all across the bottom of their modern/current vehicles. Subaru did have an oil burning problem apparently in some of the 2013 (and possibly other years) cars. My sister has a 2013 Outback and that also has slight oil burning issue (was bought new back in 2013) but theirs is not as bad, maybe 1/4 of a quart per month my brother-in-law-says so not major, but he said it has gotten worse over the past few years (was maybe a lot less but has gotten abit worse and he suspects that within a few more years it may be as much most of a quart per month, but he also says that oil is cheap, and I agree so they'll keep driving it). With today's new/used car prices still, I'd say just drive a car even if it's burning a quart of oil every month. It may only last a few more years like that before it gets really bad and you may need to replace your catalytic converter for example, but that will buy you some time, for not a ton of money in the end (say even at $10 per month in oil, so 1.5-2 quarts of oil per month) that's only about one car payment after 3 years. These companies that are all going to SUVs and trucks are just making it easier for Honda, Toyota (and I guess Kia/Nissan too) because they're opening up markets, and right now with the way oil prices are, and considering some people never go back once they go to a car, they are making a big mistake. Even if gas goes down, I don't care, I enjoy 40 mpg and so if gas does go to say $2 per gallon, well that means I'm paying half of what I am now, but even now $40 to fill up my car isn't that bad (it's bad, but not as bad as if twas an SUV or truck that had say a 30 gallon tank and only got 25 mpg).
I was checking on a Porsche 924 (2.0 Turbo) workshop manual and - as brand new - the car is stated to consume 1.5 ltr of oil every 1000 Km (oil needed is 5lt, so in imperial is around 1/3 every 620 miles), seems insane compared to nowadays sports and normal cars
@@lrich8181 I use Ams oil 100% synthetic, which claims you can go up to 25,000 miles or one year, I don’t push it that long but usually about 17,000 miles. And even before I started using Amsoil, I would use like royal purple and would change it every 12 to 15,000 miles. So even with inconsistent oil changes I hardly have any oil consumption. I really think Ams oil slows down my oil consumption and it just a really quality product.
I don't really trust int'l platforms used across several brands. How about Honda Accord for a mid-size sedan? Also you might want to check Car Wizard's "Buy this not that" series, guy's a guru.
I'm about to try that oil on my 2AZ-FE Toyota. It burns 1/2 quart in a 1000 miles mixed driving. It burns 1/2 quart in 800 miles of 75 MPH highway, but it gets 34.9 MPG. I'm currently using Pennzoil Platinum and cold starts improved and oil is clean. I was using STP synthetic high mileage and would get brief mechanical rattling on cold starts so switched to Pennzoil Platinum and fixed that. I have high hopes for the Valvoline R&P.
My dumb dumb (oldest step son) drives his Prius until he gets the message on the dash saying the oil weight is wrong. That actually means he only has 1 quart of oil left. This time, he said the oil looks milky. 🤦♂️
You have the complete name for it . I have a 2003 Cadillac Seville that burns oil. Abd bad oil burn smell sometimes yet there is no leaks on ground yet I do lose oil.
Engine restore … I live in Fl, tell me ( how to use this product) if you please? I am a female …. Happens all the time. The guy knew exactly what was in my Cheque Book, … found a Brilliant Mechanic, Ryan. Honest, Ethical, and knowledgeable about cars a “ Scotty Jr” in the making 🧡
Never have to do a full oil change. Its an oil exchange system. 😂. Actually this would be the perfect car to use the cheapest decent conventional oil. Honestly my daughter has the same engine and burns the same. Great to teach younger kids to look after your engine. Check your oil. Horizontally opposed 4 cylinder cause the lower part of the rings to wear.
I’m not a mechanic (but 1st career was as an electronic field service tech- so I’m handy), haven’t worked on cars much. I’m shopping for 2 cars, 1 used, 1 probably new hybrid plug in to get the tax credits. I see you reading error codes alerts on the Subaru- is that a piece of equipment you plugged into the cars port yourself to see that history? If so, what is it and am I able to purchase one? Thanks!
Well Scotty what if it is a car with 445,000 mi and has all those problems and then some? And also what if it's a car we use for work and it's coming up on its age limit?
I've got a 2003 Mazda protege. I've changed the alternator, water pump, starter, and it still squeals when running the engine. The belts are tight and the AC works fine. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Should I trade my 2018 ford f150 5.0 in on a 2024 4Runner. The ford truck has 130,000 km and is in good shape. No rust, no accidents and clean as a whistle. Needs new rubber. I thought I would grab the last of the 5th generation 4 runners. I have no current payments.
My car Audi E888 motor was burning oil lot more then then that , about 1l per 1000km if not more , guess what it was bad oil , i checked few different oil types and it turns out it has Euro 6 norm , it burns exhaust , doesnt go out , goes back in to engine another time then it goes out . And of course there is a lot of oil in this in form of vapor , and if oil is not good enough it cant withstand it and it burns out . Hence it was using oil . So i dont know if this car is Turbo or not , if its not Turbo maybe its not bad oil , but if it is , i would try good oil first
@@greathey1234Do you know what Restore and Protect does? If those Oil Control Rings are just carboned up/sticky vs worn out/scared up... It should remove the build up. Might be worth a try. If it reduces/eliminates the consumption... Should be a win. Not much to lose.