Just did half my boat with Level R- it looked great! But then I thought, what would Lee do? Wiped it with alcohol and it faded. Super duty to the rescue!
Lee started my first boat 25 1988 formula pc following exactly your products and procedures and the result is amazing !! Got three other jobs by people just coming by and seeing what I’m doing . In your videos I’ve watched you do a three step process for the camera ,, but on the real world would you super the whole side ,, then heavy the whole side , and ex ac whole side or just do all three in a 3 foot section on the hull sides and top ? Also are the 3m super , heavy and exac considered diminishing compounds that break down into a polish ? Last question I’ve cleaned the pads with spur etc ,, put do you ever wash the wool pads and if so with what and spin dry ? Thank you for all your knowledge that you share helped me out with second daughter going to college to make extra money 👍🇺🇸
If the whole boat needs 3 passes with 3 compounds, yes. I show you exactly what I do. I don't change much just for viewers. I don't care that much, honestly. I'm just trying to show how this gets done. Sometimes, I'll change the order I do stuff or the area I show because of lighting opportunities or just because it's easy to leave a camera there running. What you see is what I do. The compounds are considered diminishing except perhaps Super-Duty although I've seen it do it so..? Use pad, spur pad. When it gets gummed up, let dry (sometimes for a day or two) spur out, use pad. No washing, no drying. I'm happy to hear your calandar is filling up. Tuition ain't cheap. Good luck! Lee
Lee just to make sure you said yes in response lol ,, yes to work a three foot section at a time with all thee steps , super , heavy , ex or do you do the whole side of boat with super , then come back with heavy etc .
It's easiest to use 1 product at a time, for a while. You learn it and the boat's reaction to it and can dial in your process. Then, come back with the next one and so on. Sorry. Do a full pass with each. You can do one section all the steps, just to motivate you and give you a goal but it's inefficient in the long run. Good for a video and my inner thoughts while grinding.
subscribed and been watching many vids the last couple weeks. Following your methods to the tee and the results have been fantastic so far. Question is why is super duty the first process? Looking at info on the compounds it says super duty will do 1000 scratches and heavy cut will do 800. So why super duty first when it reads as though heavy would be first. Not doubting anything at all, Im seeing the results first hand. Just like to know why kind of thing. Great info and I appreciate the effort!
Hi glad you are having some success, thanks for saying Hi. I don't always start with or use Super-Duty but it's always 1st, if it's needed. Perfect-it ex ac is actually a powerful compound on its own too however Heavy Cut can pull out some serious scratches from gelcoat and paint but it takes longer than Super-Duty, most times. I used to just use Perfect-it (not ex ac, prior to the new mix) It was all my crew used and we were able to achieve similar results but it took longer to achieve. Then we began to work with Heavy and liked it and saved some time. Finding Super-Duty was also a game changer. It reduced the time (on most gelcoat) it took to remove years of neglect in 1 application compared to 3-4 of Perfect-it or sometimes 2-3 passes with Heavy Cut. As to why the instructions contradict each other : Because, 3M are not boat detailers and don't know their own products. Never read the instructions on any of the boat stuff, they're guessing the whole time. You're right of course and in the last decade or so, you're at least the 80th person to ask about this. I'm not tossing shade for doing so, I fully agree with your thought process, most would. Not 3M... Super-Duty was designed for paint and Heavy Cut was made for gelcoat. If a sanding abrasive was used on paint and then gelcoat, to remove the scratches might require different effort on the two materials and that might be why there's some confusion in the labels. Not in us reading them and getting it wrong but perhaps when they tested Super-Duty back in the 60's, they just stuck with the info their engineers gave them and never saw or don't see a reason to change anything. I've suggested, they don't listen. I've asked if they'll change their instructions on these products and they gave me some long story about how many department heads had to sign off on a change that it'd be faster to just start a new company, seriously. 3M is way to big, slow and ignorant to make things make sense. Gelcoat is less than 6% of their market and they put in that level of effort.. foolishly in my opinion. More people would trust them if they weren't as confusing. I honestly don't know the reasons for the misleading numbers but you would never go Heavy Cut and then follow with Super-Duty. It'd mess up whatever the Heavy Cut did. Find the customer line for 3M in my descriptions and call 'em up. The more of us who point out the confusing info, the better chance that they'll fix it..? Cheers, Lee
I understand your frustration. In no way do I doubt your process, I’ve lived it the past few days and agree with the sequence. My project is not so much oxidation, it’s scratches caused by use of those maroon 3m scratch pad type things. It’s looking really good, and I haven’t even gotten to “perfect it” yet. Thanks for the reply and I’ll continue to watch and learn. Also just ordered some of the Mother’s surface prep to clean before waxing. Thanks again!
Just recently found your channel and subscribed. Love your advice and approach Lee! I have a black hull Cobalt and the gelcoat is in good shape. Their just some minor blemishes and dull spots, along with water spots. I was thinking of starting with the 3M Perfect-it Gelcoat Light Cutting Polish & Wax. Have you used this product? Do you think this would be better thank the Super Duty or Heavy since my oxidation is very light?
You'll be better off with Heavy Cut. Cobalts, showing water spots means that it's deeper than a cleaner wax (which that other product is) can reach. It may darken up the color but so would butter or cooking oil. It won't fix the problem. If time and money aren't issues, start with Super-Duty by 3M on a 3M wool pad. ( other brands like lake country's wool is way too soft) Then Heavy Cut and then Perfect-it. Wash, inspect and if you like it, lock it in with either of the "waxes" in my description. Keep it clean and re-apply wax by hand once a year and use a spray detailer (polymer-based, not carnauba wax) every time you think about the boat or use the boat. She's yours so, do what you want but in my experience, hiding oxidation under oil means it's getting deeper every year and eventually the oils won't help any more to hide it. It'll then take so much work that people will start telling you to wetsand (you still won't have to but they'll say it because it's all they know to try) Without being there to see feel and taste the boat (kidding, I don't taste them) I can only give guidance. Thanks for say'n hi. Lre
@@Local_Boydidgood Thank you very much for the quick reply and the detailed advice! Since time is money, I want to do it right the first time, and then it should be easier to maintain the nice finish. I will take your advice on the products suggested. I would love to hire you to detail my boat, but I'm in northern CA and therefore probably not near to you. I'm curious what area is your business located?
I'm up 2 states. A small town near a big lake called Chelan. If you took 97N East of Shasta, you'd bump into us. (beautiful drive by the way) No problem on the suggested course of action. You're exactly correct : do a solid (hard) job once and try to avoid a repeat through good maintenance. That's the goal anyways. Watch a few more of my vids to get a good idea of how to use the products and the buffer. There's a dance that takes place. If it feels like a fight, there's a problem. Good luck. I'm here if you get stuck.
Hi Lee, glad your still here. I did all the steps last year with Heavy Cut, Perfect it and FireGlaze. I have some black marks and scruffs from shrink wrap and just some areas that need a little love. It's a 2002 Sea Ray Sundancer.. Should I go over it with Meguiars Flagship Cleaner/wax? What would you recommend? And what pad? I don't mind going over the hull once or twice. Thanks again for everything!
You know I'm guessing here, because I'm not, there: Perfect-it with a wool pad, clean an re-apply FG. Give the Flagship "cleaner wax" a break. (my personal opinion) I'm not there so I can't tell you what to use. It's why I have so many videos, to show that while I use the same few products, I use what the boat needs. Hit the boat with Perfect-it ex ac and get the marks and problem spots with the same but, harder* (not too hard. If you're pushing hard to get something off with Perfect-it, switch to heavy cut. The just dial in the boat. Clean it well and wax.
@Local_Boydidgood Thanks Lee, makes sense. I was gonna try the white foam pad first and see if that works to remove the marks. Will update. Thanks again.
Get we get a video of that wax removal technique at the end??? Never seen that before and I’m impressed, worried about swirls from that though. I’ve noticed you been banging out some quick 10-15 knowledge videos before so I guess that could be cool to see.
So I understand and don't have to watch that vid again; The application or the removal? That way, If I come across another situation where it's applicable, I'll try to remember to film/talk about it. All the work is done with the compounding. After it's clean and still looks good, protect it. There should be no swirls.
@@Local_Boydidgood the removal, if I’m not wrong you put the microfiber on the da with a super soft pad, and just went over the area again. Let me see if I can find a time stamp, so you can jump to it instantly and see what I’m talking about.
Ah.. OK. So, even with a clean pad, it'll leave behind some oils that I normally wipe off to level out the surface. On dark gelcoat, any difference in the amount of wax-oil on the surface from area to area will stand out. Wiping does a good job and if you're just going to wash the boat afterwards, that's all that's needed to remove the oils. So, if I just wipe it after using the random orbital, just the difference in hand pressure from left to right or up and down while wiping, can make things look blotchy with "darker" areas or lighter ones. If I do the microfiber wipe down (after the wax was removed) on the machine, I get a more uniform pressure and "wipe" so it looks prettier but it still should get a wash after the wax and even sometimes 2 to even out the oil content on the surface for larger boats. It takes a soft, clean towel and the towel needs to be centered on the pad. Speed up till it spins the towel but doesn't throw it off to one side. Even flat pressure and that's it. It's just wiping in the 21st century. Lee
The one you won't regret is the DWP849X by Dewalt. You'll love owning it. I guess it all depends. My 2 buffers are 5 & 7 years old. One has a jinky speed knob at just a mm to top speed (it has no connection and dies) that's her only negative. At 50, I should be so lucky. It's a sellable item. You can buy one used for cheap often times because people buy one but never learn to use it so they sell it or the boat or both. Either way, $70 at a pawnshop for one within the year long warranty isn't a bad investment. Online, depending on the time of year (illegal price manipulation but who don't we let get away with it these days? Sorry..) sell for $175-200 shipped. Makita makes a nice tool some say. Comes with a nice carry bag lots of people (myself included) consider an awesome feature. They're smoother and more gentle to a newbie but lack the "I will grind until I see myself" attitude the DeWalt has. None of them tolerate heat as well as the DeWalt. Italian Rupes, flex, Milwaukee.. There's a few and options for going cordless. Even if you weren't a speedster or a wealthy person, if asked what car I should buy, I'd say a Tesla Plaid, a Nissan gt-R or a full-warrantied Mercedes e63 AMGs wagon. There's cheaper cars for getting around, perhaps more appropriate cars but you ask and I'm going to say that just using "it" and wanting "it" ("it" being either a buffer or a car.. It) to preform to the bare minimum is fine but even doing the bare minimum in any of those cars would be so much more enjoyable. I'm not trying to get a car debate going, not without more beer.. I love, my buffers. Walk a marina and ask detailers if you can see what one of theirs feels like in the hand. The DeWalt as an example is a little big for my hand on the handle which is why I often just use the head of the buffer the way I do. On a new Makita, this hurt after a while. If the buffer has a bump on its nose for a palm rest, it's for cars, ignore these for gelcoat. No real detailer uses one for long. That pad gets in the way in many nooks of a boat. Buy 4-5 Harbor freight ones and just plan on one dying every hour on heavy oxidation and every week on medium. Have a fire extinguisher handy. (personal experience watching a few flame-out) Dealer's choice my man but I have one answer. DWP849X by DeWalt. Peaces, Lee
You do some great work, keep it up. 👍 Question is what rpm setting do you keep your rotary at when you work the compound in? Do you usually speed it up after a few passes? Thank you
Hi. My speed is due to 2 decades of running a buffer. I don't suggest you or anyone new to this ever goes above 800 rpm. It's dangerous and can ruin a finish. It's my ego showing off to the "youtube experts" who would never try it. Go slow, it works and takes about the same amount of time. I've done videos showing this. Go slow and be careful around fittings, cables and your face😁. You don't need heat, it's a myth. You aren't doing more by going faster, really. There's a slight benefit but a fast buffer can hurt stuff, quickly if you aren't proficient with one. Sorry, not the answers you were looking for but it's the truth. My crew ran 7 buffers at below 800 rpm for 15 years.. It works just fine. Lee
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ky-qHYzJlo4.html This should help confirm what I said. Hope it helps. I have personally seen people with a fast spinning buffer burn the gelcoat, eat decals, break their fingers, destroy a power cord, vhf antenna, satellite dish mounts, knock out a 6'4" footballer when it yo-yo'd up his (over the shoulder) cord, huge mistake. Swirls at a slow speed can be fixed rather easily and quickly as you adjust what you're doing and watching the results manifest before your eyes (bright light is key. Bright like the sun not a shop light on a stand) Fast comes with a balance between the pad, buffer and the person holding/guiding the other two. If you can call out squaredance maneuvering in rhythm, free-style rap or juggle a few different objects at once, speed up a bit when you feel like it but I only see a speed difference benefit when on an edge that's very oxidized or a huge flat panel on a yacht that 3 people are grinding on. There's reasons on the flat I won't go into but specific to acreage of gelcoat so let's go to edges. On a badly oxidized edge, going fast will shine up that spot quicker. It'll also heat it up really quick and so there's a literal second that a detailer has, to decide; "Is it about to melt /burn/turn brown-yellow?" a second and a half, maybe. I've burned 2 boats' gelcoat. Once because I was an idiot and the second one was just the nature of the beast (removing oxidized gunk) If going slow however, you aren't tossing expensive products all over your face and hands like some on the 'tubes' might. You also won't burn the edge of anything, catch anything that violently reacts or causes the buffer to react. I once had my wrist whipped with a steel antenna that my buffer broke free after winding up the spindle of the buffer. Then it broke as I was holding onto the boat with one hand and buffing with the other. I couldn't shut it down for a moment. That left some marks and an education. I made this video and others like it but perhaps I need to make it more prevalent in my discourse to the viewers. Walk, hop jog run backwards, crabwalk, then run, if you feel you need to but not from day 1 please. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks so much for getting back to me so quick. I have an older cobalt 2006 and I just enjoy buffing my own boat. There’s satisfaction doing it yourself. I love your videos and seeing the great work you do, you make it look so easy. I use a dewalt rotary so I’ll definitely keep it no more than 800rpm. Keep up the great work and videos, there’s always people watching them although they might not subscribe or like your video. Cheers!
Awesome job! I’ve commented before but I’m halfway through my 05 black Cobalt and trying to be patient and thorough. I watched the whole video on 1.5x did you polish and then wax or just wax?
