Ignition Coil Testing 

Greetings...Harold Hansen.............Thanks kindly, for Your "super comment", and for watching too............Well, I usually record my Videos, while having the video camera "held stationary/mounted securely", and also, "zoomed-in" reasonably well, so the audience, will (hopefully) be seeing, what-ever-it-might-be, at that particular time, with some clarity, while also, not looking, like I'm trying to film a horror movie (with that good ole camera "shake", and, Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, that "shake-in" gets worse, the more, that the camera lens, zooms-in as well, when "hand-held"...!!!...lol)...........Yes indeed, back when, I made this particular video, I thought it would be a good idea, to show folks, the, shall we say, "basics", as it applies to, how, Ohms (resistance) readings, relate to those, oh-so-many-turns of wire, that make up, each of those, usually two, individual coils, that are usually contained with-in, a given (automotive, type of) ignition coil (as in, the primary coil, and the secondary coil of wire)............Most of the "factory/stock" ignition coils, that I've replaced over the years, usually, "did not", have any "ohms/resistance" specifications, printed on the ignition coil, or, on its shipping box/packaging as well.............If lucky though, those specifications could be found, printed in a factory service manual, other-wise, a person had to have faith, that, the so-called, ignition coil's "part number", actually was, the "correct one", for that "Exact" vehicle and ignition system/circuit in question, or, if not, the result could be, a weak spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, or might even end up, having some serious & expensive (to fix), damage...!!!...and I hope not...........I guess, that, I'm not so much, a part-of, the, shall we say, "disposable society", as in, if it's "broke", just get rid of "it", and buy a new one, but rather, I like the challenge, of, fixing/adapting/making a home-made part, that will hopefully, get, what-ever-"it"-is (that's "malfunctioning"), up & running, reasonably well once again (keeping fingers crossed....lol)............In closing, here's something, that happened a number of years ago............I got a phone call, from a Friend, that just took his truck, into, one of those..."Can do it Quick"...automotive tune-up shops, and he was sayin', that his truck "Ran Worse"..."After"...they, or who-ever, worked on it...!!!...Yikes...!!!...so, I told him, to bring his truck over to my house.............When he arrived, it sure didn't take very long at all, as to what the problem was, after, I opened-up, the hood of his truck..............Well, it appears that, Mr. (so called) Fast tune-up Guy, "Did Not" tighten up, the Distributor's, hold-down clamp/bracket..."Bolt"...as, I could turn that Distributor, very easily, with my hand, and the ignition timing, probably, wasn't even in the ball-park, b-cuz of that...!!!.............So, I stuck my timing light on his engine, set the initial/base ignition timing, and, shortly after, my Friend's, truck's, V-8 Engine, was, back to Runnin', the way, that it should be, and, with all of that, said and done, I say, thanks again, and......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Jeff Pregman ....Greetings Jeff Pregman....You're Welcome my Friend, and, Congratulations, for Gittin'-er-Fixed............Hmmm...what's that old sayin'.....oh yeah, that's it, as in..."They Don't Make-em...like they use to"...(the Ignition Coil, that is...lol)..............As a Guess, it might have been, a not so good Electrical Connection, on the Low Voltage side, of Your Tractor's Ignition System, that had You thinkin', that, the much Older Ignition Coil was to blame, and should be turned out to pasture, when it was probably Ok, all along....................Make sure, that, when-ever Replacing, any of the Parts in Your Tractor's Ignition System, to get the "Exact Specified" ones, cuz, in a lot of cases, all of those particular Parts, have to be "Matched-Up", with one-another, especially so, the Ignition Coil's Primary Resistance, and whether or not, it has to be "Teamed-Up", with a Ballast Resistor as well, or, the result, could be, a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plug/s, or maybe, even an Ignition Coil that gets too Hot, Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, quite possibly............I don't know what Your Tractor has, in the way of an Ignition System, but, it's always a good idea, to Keep-Up with Maintenance.....................Something, like an old, dirty, and/or, worn-out Spark Plug, really should be Replaced with a New one, and, if it's the Gap-able type, it should be Gap-ed to Specifications, cuz, just about any time, that a Spark Plug's Gap, gets way too Big, that, in-itself, makes an Ignition Coil, Work all that much harder.............................All of the Ignition System's Wiring "Connections", should be, Clean, (shine-ee?) and Dry, or, sooner or later, there's gonna be Trouble in Paradise...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........If Mr. John Deere, starts to Feel Sick again, just leave a comment or question, under any of my RU-vid Videos, and, once I know the Model Number, of Your Tractor, I can then, have a look-see, for that particular Tractor's, Information, and.........till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Nicholas Philip-neri Greetings Nicholas Philip-neri....Wowsers...!!!...Thanks kindly, for Your..."Fantastic"...Comment my Friend, and for taking the time, to watch this RU-vid Video of mine, as well....................................Even though, some, if not most, of my RU-vid Videos, happen to be, shall we say, a bit on the..."Long-Winded"...side of things (aka, my Video/s, being, too long, time-wise, that is), I'd rather take the "Flak" (as in, some Folks, leaving a comment, every now and again, about the, shall we say, Extended Running Time, of, most of the Videos, that I make), and, I do see Their Point alright, it's, just that, I can't see myself, making these Videos, in, a, shall we say..."Slam-Dunk"...(You know, that good ole "Basketball" term, pretty much meaning, to, "Slam-Dunk" the Basketball, into the "Hoop", in almost..."No Time at all"...!!!...lol) fashion, where-by, as I see it, if I were to make, oh, lettuce say, a really "Short, and to the Point", Video, on, what-ever the Subject matter happens to be, I figure that by doing so, some, if not most People, would be, shall we say, kinda, "Left Out in the Cold", and, probably not, getting enough Information, from that, so called, Hypothetical/Imaginary..."Slam-Dunk"...Video, well, if I were to make any, in that fashion, at all, that is.......................................If You have a look around, at the many, did I say Many..."Comments & Questions"...that can be seen, under most of these RU-vid Videos, that I have made, so far, these Many, Comments/Questions, that You can see, are Posted, even though I thought, that, I, perhaps, had enough Information in these Videos of mine already, fancy that...lol.....................................Before I forget, the "Ohms Testing", of an Ignition Coil, will Only, Basically, be Tellin' Us, that, both, the "Primary, and the Secondary, Coil Windings", and their "Internal Connections", Inside, just about any Ignition Coil, are not "Open or Shorted", and, there can be times, quite Rarely at that, where, a..."Faulty, or Questionable"...Ignition Coil, Heats up to "Operating Temperature", or perhaps Higher, and, when "it" does, it could very well..."Not Work all that Well, or, might even, Stop Working, All-Together"...just, so You know, for Future Reference, if need be......................................The thing, to really be watching out for, is, while taking/doing the "Low Ohms Test", on just about any Ignition Coil out there, that, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter'"...that is being used, has it's..."Low Ohms...Range/Scale...Calibration"..."Checked/Verified"...especially when, checking out, something along the lines, of, oh, lettuce say, a General Motors/Chevrolet.."HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil"...where, as I recall, has a..."Low Ohms Reading"...(on a Good Coil, that is...lol), somewhere Between..."Just Over Zero Ohms, and, No Higher, then about 1 Ohm"...and, I'm sure, that, with that, Very Low, shall we say..."Ohm-age"..."Specification"...on the HEI Ignition Coil, that I was just talkin' about, then, even my very own, Yellow..."Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter" (that You can see, in this Video), had a "Miss-Calibration", of about .3 Ohms (that be, the Yellow Meter's, and the Test Leads on it, "Combined" together, to arrive at, that .3 Ohm's...Miss-Calibration, that I was just mentioning), and, that, my Friend, could "False-ly Indicate", that, a "Good Ignition Coil", just might, "Appear to be Bad"...if, and I say if, the "Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter's"..."Miss-Calibration"..."Is Not Taken Into Consideration"...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol.........................As for the "High Ohms Test", on an Ignition Coil, and that "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", would usually have a "Secondary, High Ohms Specification", of, oh, should be, for the most part, in the..."Many Thousands of Ohms"...and as I see it, that, usually..."Under 1 Ohm Miss-Calibration"...on, something, like my Yellow Ohm-Meter/Multi-Meter, could, shall we say, be Comparable, to, something like..."Trying To Find a Needle in a Hay-Stack"....!!!...lol...pretty much meaning, while taking, that rather "High Ohms Reading", with that, Less-Then, "1 Ohm"..."Miss-Calibration"...is, pretty much "Meaning-Less"...unless, a Person has a Phobia, where-by, They, just, might not be able to Sleep at Night, just, knowing, that, that High Ohms Test, wasn't..."Perfect"...!!!...lol........................................So, there You have it, not only, are some of my Videos..."Long-Winded"...but...at times, some? (if not Most?), of my "Replies", happen to be..."Long-Winded"..as well...!!!...lol...........................Thanks again, for Your well Appreciated Comment, my Friend, and.....................Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

luis berrios Greetings luis berrios....You are welcome my Friend, and, Thanks, for not only watching this RU-vid Video of mine, but also, for that nice comment that You posted here................................I'm assuming, that, when-ever You happen to be the "Captain" of Your "Vessel" (that just be a fancy schmancy way of sayin'..."Boat"...lol), that, as I'm thinkin', probably, due to the odds, of Your "Boat" being Operated in, what is known around here, in Canada (and more then likely, plenty of Other Countries as well), as the "Salt Chuck" (that, is just, oh, I guess the slang Name, possibly being started by a "Mariner/Captain", or, Some Other Person, that some-what Replaces, the, shall we say, more Common Word, for, the)..."Body of Water"...where-by..."It", will usually have a rather..."High Amount of Salt Content in it"...and, that, so called..."Salt Chuck", is usually in the Form of an..."Ocean"...as opposed to a..."Body of Fresh Water"...that might just be in the Form of a..."Lake"...perhaps............................Now then, what I was kinda getting at, just above, would have my thinkin', that, seeing as how You ended Your comment, with that rather Famous Word, being that, of..."Aloha"...leads me to believe, that You may, very well be, in, or on, "One" of those "Islands", in..."Hawaii" (I hope, that I spelled it correctly?), and, also, I'm visualizing, Your Boat, and of course, with You, being the "Captain", at the "Helm" (that be, yet, another fancy schmancy Word, and it just basically means "Steering Wheel", most of the time...!!!...lol)...and, I'll even "Fathom" a Guess (nope, not the Water Depth word, this time...lol), that Your Boat is probably being Operated in a "Body of Sea Water, with, lots and Lots of Salt in it", and, as You, have probably noticed, and probably experienced, as well as, plenty of Other People and myself, have, is that..."Salt (Sea/Ocean) Water"...is very..."Unforgiving, and Very Corrosive"...!!!..............................What I'm getting at here, this time, is, forewarning You (You might already know?), that, the, shall I say..."Salt Air"...that's usually found above the "Sea/Ocean", and, on the "Coast Line", of a "Coastal Community or City", is almost, as "Corrosive", as the "Sea Water Itself", and, when it comes to, something like, Your Boat's "Wiring and Connections", it usually, doesn't take, all that long, before, that rather "Corrosive...Salt-Containing...Sea Air", starts to get into, something like Your Boats "Wiring System", and, all of those "Wiring Connections/Connecters", and, seeing as, You were sayin', that, You had some "Spare Ignition Coils" to use as, oh, "Emergency/Back-up Replacements"...just in case (as we all are, keepin' our fingers crossed, to try to, avoid, You, having to use, any One of those, Extra Ignition Coils)..............................What's that ole Saying...???..........................Oh yeah, it goes something like this.............."An Ounce of Prevention, is Worth, a Pound of Cure"...and, here's what I'd like to tell You, about that Word..."Prevention", if You'll let me, that is (lol)...........................My best Advice, is, something as Simple as..."Keeping a Very Close Eye"...on Your Boats..."Wiring Connections"...as, like I was just sayin' above, about, just how "Nasty and Corrosive", that, all of that (Salt Filled)..."Sea (Ocean) Air"..."Actually Is"...especially, when we are talking about "Metals that will Corrode", at an even "Faster Rate", especially considering, that, good ole "Salt Air Environment", that Your Boat is probably being "Exposed To"...!!!..........................Now I'm thinkin', and, I'll even bet, that, the "Air"...(not even bringing, any "Salt" into this offering)...might just be, quite "Humid" (as in Humidity, or even, Relative Humidity, that might be, expressed in...% or Per-Cent), could very well be..."Quite High"...and that my Friend, even without having any "Salt", in that, possibly, "High Humidity"..."Air"...and, given enough time, as I've found out, more then once, will eventually, get into, just about any..."Wiring Connection Points"...and, will usually, make for, some very Unwanted, Not Working so Good..."Engine Related Running/Performance Issues"...and sometimes, even on a Good day...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol................................So, there You have it...Please..."Keep All of Your Boat's Wiring Connections"..."Shine-ee, and Corrosion-Free"...(and that also, goes for...not having any "Oxidation", on any connection points as well), so, Your Good Friend, that being, Your Boat's Engine, gets the well deserved..."Battery Voltage & Amperage"...that "it" really does require, so, that, good ole Engine of Yours, doesn't Stop Working, having the end result, being, Your "Boat", just sitting, somewhere, out there, in the "Salt Chuck", and Not Moving, trying to pretend, that it's just, a..."Marker Boo-ee" (that was my rendition, of the real word...Buoy...lol).................................Also, make sure, that You Run, Your Engine Compartment, Ventilation System..."Before You Start Your Engine"...!!!...(if so equipped, that is?)...and...Make Sure, that, You have a Fully Charged, and Properly Operating..."Fire Extinguisher"..."On-Board"...just in case (and I hope not)..................Seems, You have "It Made"..."Mah-hee-Mah-hee" (Fish...???), and, lots of Pretty "Hula" Girls too...lol........................................Well......Till next time...."Steady as She Goes Captain"...and...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings Matt Kaiser....Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and the words that you said in Your Comment, that "Reflect", Your Intelligence, Compassion, and also, a very Good Analogy, on how a Person, should really Conduct Him/Herself, in order to Gain, the Most Information Possible, from the Person that is Offering Useful Information, that just may be Beneficial to the Person receiving it, that is Genuinely Interested, in the Subject that's being Offered at the time....For some strange reason lately, an older Actor's Name keeps popping into my head, and, maybe, just maybe, I might just know the reason why....The Actors Name, happens to be "Yul Brynner" (I think it's pronounced...Yule Brenner)....I sure don't look anything like him, but, I think that there just be something about His Voice, that has me thinking somewhat, that perhaps one day, I will be able to reach People, with a Voice like Yul's, that will have an Effect on them, just as Yul's Voice had an Effect on me, but hey, who really knows, only time will tell. A Person Must Always Remember, that, when they Deposit something on the Internet, it goes "World-Wide", and, it might just stay in "Cyber-Space" Forever!!! Perhaps the RU-vid Videos that I have made so far, as well as the Videos that I plan to make in the Future, may very well be, part of my "Legacy" for "All" to Enjoy, and hopefully, Benefit from as well, and, I say again, only time will tell. Just Imagine now, if All of Us Folks on Planet Earth were "Clones", and were cut from the same Cloth, or, Extracted from the same Mold? Wouldn't be much fun with that Scenario, huh? That's why, the Power, or Powers that be, made us all "Unique", and in the Form of "Individuals", and, see how much more Interesting, and Fun, it actually is, as compared to, shall we say, "Zombies?" I mentioned in a previous Reply/Comment, that I posted not all that long ago under one of my RU-vid Videos, that I Welcomed "ALL" Comments, under my RU-vid Videos, be them...(I'll even ramp up the words a wee bit) Good, Bad, or just plain UGLY!!!...lol...(Thanks, Clint Eastwood). Maybe those (very, very few) Individuals, that Were Not, all that pleased with some of the Videos of mine, Posted that very Entertaining, and looked like, they got up on the wrong side of the bed, on that day, might come back, and have a Look-See, at, well at least the "View Count" on this here Video... Will you Permit Me, to "Toot-My-Own-Horn?" (Telepathy is like Snail Mail today, for some reason)... I think I heard a very faint...y...e...s All-Righty then... Drum Roll Please... The View Count, that shows at the top of this page indicates... "66870" Views, and dare I say...Still counting! (Up, I hope!...lol). Please, don't worry about me, and any of those, Not so Kind Comments that you happen to see, under any of my RU-vid Videos, as, not only do I find them quite Entertaining, but, those so called "Interesting" Comments, "Keep-My-Mind-Sharp", and enables me to do Battle (Verbally, that is...lol) with those Not-So-Fun People, that have taken it upon themselves to "Bite-Off-More-Then-They-Can-Chew", when it comes to trying to "Out-Wit", Me, Myself, and I. Me Awesome?...Nah, I'm just taking the Advice from a Fellow Online Video Gamer, that I use to play with/against a few years back... ...but, I would like to say, that His Advice was..."Awesome", that's for sure... His "Advice" was really simple, and that Advice was... ..."Just Be Yourself"....I didn't talk...just listened... You said for me..."To Keep Going, right?"... "Your Wish is My Command!"... ps, You Only have 2-Wishes Remaining, as, I happen to be... ...the "Genie" that You let out of the Bottle, when You "Un-Corked-It!!!" Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Dale Rucker............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...eh...lol............Well, the good ole Multi-meter, be it, an older, Analogue type, that has a needle/pointer that Waves at You, or, be it, the Digital type, that will usually, only be showing You Numbers, along with, sometimes, showing a decimal (point), and/or, maybe a symbol or two, perhaps (ohms symbol maybe?...as an example), can sure help out, quite a bit, when it comes to, tryin' to track down the Culprit, that could very well be causing, an (electrically related) problem or two...hopefully, that is............Here's something else, You can try, if You like..........If, You were to set Your Multi-meter, on the Low Volts range, then, just get a 1.5 Volt Battery (one and one half Volts, round type), as in...AAA...AA...C...or D...size, and, make sure, to touch/connect the Multi-meter's probe/tips, to each end, of the 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, using the Correct "Polarity", as in, the Red probe, is usually + (plus sign = Positive), and the Black probe, is usually - (minus sign = Negative), or, more simply put...the Red probe/tip, goes to the end of the battery, that has the Bump/protrusion on it...and....the Black probe/tip, goes on the Flat end of the Battery, then, have a look at the Voltage reading, that will usually be showing on the Multi-meter, well, unless, that poor ole Battery, happens to be...as dead as a Door Nail, that is, as in, completely used up, and/or, might be, very, very old as well...............A Brand spankin' New, 1 and 1/2 Volt Battery, should be showing, a bit more, than 1.6 Volts, most times..............I've found, that, when, one of these Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt (round) Batteries, starts to drop Below, oh, about 1.4 Volts, then, that's usually the time, where, what-ever the Battery is powering, will sometimes, start to work, not-so-good, sometimes............If, one or more, Used, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, happen to be in a Flashlight, that has an old school, Light-Bulb in it (not the LED/Light Emitting Diode type), then, a Person, might be able to see, that, the Flashlight, isn't casting, as "Bright" of a Light, as it did before, when those (1 and 1/2 volt) Batteries, were brand spankin' "New"................If, there are two or more, 1 and 1/2 volt Batteries, placed/connected end-to-end, as in, Bumpy end of one battery, is touching the Flat end, of the other battery, then, this is basically, what is called, a Series circuit, and, each of the Battery's Voltages, gets added together, which will increase the Total Voltage available, as in, for example, let's use a Flashlight, that uses, only Two, 1 and 1/2 Volt batteries, shall we............When these two batteries, are placed end to end (placed in Series), then, the Voltages, of those two batteries, are added together...............So, if each New, 1 and 1/2 volt battery, is 1.6 Volts each, just add...1.6 plus 1.6, which should equal 3.2 Volts..............Then, as these two batteries, get used up, by the old school Light Bulb, that's in the Flashlight (while it's on), then, as the Voltage starts dropping, so will, the Brightness, of the Light, that's coming out of the Flashlight, well, as far as I might know, it will...maybe...lol...........So then, the light-Bulb, that's in the imaginary Flashlight (above), as far as I see it, is a pretty good example, of what can happen, when a Battery's Voltage, starts to Drop, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings Meaghan Pashen....I'm glad that this video of mine, was able to help you out, and, thanks kindly, for your very appreciated words, that I read in your comment as well....As for this older type of ignition coil, that you see in this video, it happens to be "Old School", in comparison with ignition coils that can be found on the vehicles that are being sold these days....With the older vehicles, oh, up to about the mid 1970's, were quite easy to learn about, maintain, repair, and modify, as compared to all of the vehicles now-ah-days, that have fuel injection, onboard computers, and then some, but not to worry, just set your own pace, (maybe like the pace that You experienced in this video maybe?), and, just..."Learn-as-You-go"...much like I have, and still do, to this very day. The real Major difference, in the Older versus Newer vehicles, is the "Engine Management System", and other components, like Electronically Controlled automatic transmissions as well. I find that, it's quite a bit easier to learn (and maybe teach as well), the Fundamentals (aka, basics) about vehicles (cars, trucks, etc.), especially, as compared to newer vehicles, having an Onboard Computer, Fuel Injection, and the "List" goes on. Cars, Trucks, and anything, that makes them go, just happens to be a "Hobby" of mine, and I "Save a Pile of Money", by D.I.Y., ooops, I meant D.I.M. (aka, Do It Myself!...lol). If you liked this Ignition Coil video, I have another Video on my RU-vid Channel, that would probably help you out, with how an "Old School" vehicles "Ignition System" actually works, and it was an ignition system that was usually referred to as, a "Points and Condenser" type of ignition system (this particular ignition system was only used up to about 1974, and this system used an Ignition Coil that looks just like the Ignition Coil that You see in this video, but, it is quite a bit easier to understand, as compared to the onboard Computer ignition systems found on vehicles these days. If you care to, head on over to my RU-vid Channel...RockysRoadshow..., and check out (actually watch, and maybe listen too...lol), the Video, with the Title of, something like...Simple Explanation of a Vehicles Ignition System... ...also, feel free to have a Look-See at any of my other RU-vid Videos, as I'm sure that You will find plenty of interesting information in my other videos as well...enjoy. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+hindflight R ....Greetings hindflight R....Thanks for the nice comment, as I do, really appreciate it...................Well, once I hit the Record Button on the Video Camera..."Away I Go"...!!!...lol...and even I'm quite surprised, at just how long (time-wise, that is), that some (maybe most?), of my RU-vid Videos seem to go on for....................Also, when-ever Someone, puts out Information to the Masses (aka, People in Public), then, that Someone, should be ready, for any forth coming (as You put it), "Criticisms"................Hmmmm...maybe it's kinda like, putting a Restaurant's (food) Menu, on the table, (in front of those Hungry Customers...!!!...lol), and, I'm pretty darn sure, that (are You ready for this one...?), as in..."You can please, some of the People some of the time...but...You can Never, please All of the people All of the Time...!!!...lol (was I even close, with that good ole sayin' at all...???)......................Thanks again, for Your Super comment, and.........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Emil Cornell.........Thanks for watching..........Here's something else, to keep in mind also..........There can be times, quite rarely, when a faulty ignition coil might start to act-up, and not work so well, or, might even stop working, possibly, when it gets up to operating temperature, or, maybe even hotter.........The Ohms (resistance) testing, of an ignition coil, isn't really, the be all, end all test, b-cuz, the Ohms/resistance test, is usually done, when the ignition coil is rather cool, as in, room temperature perhaps...........Make sure, to keep up with regular vehicle maintenance, that's usually, to be done, in accordance, with the vehicle's manufacturer's maintenance schedule, at the specified time, and/or, mileage/kilometer-age "intervals", b-cuz by doing so, you'll be getting better performance, and, if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, then, some very good gas mileage, it will usually end up being, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...the jackel.............Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too............If, and when-ever, you, or who-ever, might be replacing/installing a New ignition coil, make sure that, "it" is the "Correct" one, for your "Exact" vehicle and engine, b-cuz, if the "Wrong" one, happens to get installed, that "Does Not", have the "Correct", Vehicle Manufacturer's, Ohms/resistance specifications (especially so, on the Low Ohms/Primary side/coil windings), for that particular ignition system/circuit, then, it might result in, something along the lines of, a Weak Spark, at the spark plug's Electrodes, or perhaps, some not-wanted/expensive damage, it might end up being, and, I hope not (ignition coil, might Over-Heat, and go Kaput/Quit working, as an example).............When-ever, I ordered, an ignition coil, for a vehicle, that had a stock/un-modified engine, I would tell, the Parts, guy or gal, what vehicle it was, along with, the particulars of the Engine as well, and, the only thing, that was, looked-up/involved, was usually, just a "Part Number" Only (No ignition coil Specifications, what-so-ever)...But...what if...???...there was an "Error", in the Part's...Listing...or...the Parts, guy or gal, had an off-day, and made a boo-boo (aka, mistake)...???...........What I try to do, to prevent any Errors (hopefully, that is), is to, have a look-see, in a Factory/Manufacturer's..."Chassis Service Manual"...to, see for myself, what the "Low Ohms"...and..."High Ohms"...Specifications, actually are, for that "Exact", vehicle and engine...........I recall, some time ago (for the very same vehicle/engine), that, I saw (in a factory/manufacturer's service manual)..."2"...Different...(sets of) ignition coil (ohms/resistance) Specifications, for..."2-Different"...ignition coils, that had "Different", ignition coil Manufacturers...!!!...how about that...lol...oh, and, that particular vehicle, only used, "1-Only" ignition coil (not 2), just, so as, not to be confused..............Then, if the ignition system/circuit, is a much older type, then, some of them, might have/and use, what is called, a Ballast Resistor, that has to have the "Correct" Ohms/resistance Specification/s as well (a ballast resistor, is needed, to be used along with certain ignition coils, or, that particular ignition coil, will probably get too Hot/Over-Heat, and destroy itself)............The better, a vehicle's ignition system performs (and, that every-thing else, is working as it should), will more than likely, result in better (engine) Performance, and if Ya go easy on the gas pedal, good gas mileage, it will usually be...and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

..another comedian!

My guess is that some people don't have 20 minutes to spend on effectively 4 minutes of information. People like concise and efficient videos. That's my guess.

Greetings anakaine....Thanks kindly, for you very well Appreciated choice of words, my Friend....To some, (maybe just venting, due to a bad day perhaps?), think that this particular Video is on the "Long-Winded" side, to say the least....But, never-the-less, I'm just gonna "Stick-To-My-Guns" (so to speak), in that, if I just do the "Slam-Dunk" (as in the Basket-Ball Term), meaning, get to the Point (of the material being discussed in my Videos), without giving any Thoughtful Consideration to those Folks that are just starting out, and, not having very much Knowledge of, or Exposure to, would (in my opinion) be, Abandoning them. (something, that I just don't want to do). What's that old saying?...."You can please some of the People some of the time, but, you can't please All of the People All of the Time!"...lol...(gee, I hope I got that right!...lol). Sure, I will be making some mistakes from time to time, but, as I see it, it's the Thought that Counts! : ) Thanks again, for your "Great" comment! Take care, "HAPPY NEW YEAR!", and, have a nice day.

Greetings Paul Johnson....Thanks kindly, for your very nice comment, my Friend....I'm not sure if I happened to mention some things in this Video, that I will let you know about now....Make sure that, All "Wiring" is Disconnected from your Ignition Coil when you Test it with the Ohm-Meter (Multi-Meter), for the reason that, your "Ohm-Readings", probably Won't be "Accurate", because of the "Extra" Wiring (and maybe other components like "Switches", and, General Motors use of a "Resistance Wire", and, Other Vehicles that may have "Ballast Resistors", in the Electrical "Circuit", just before, that there Oil Filled Ignition Coil) gets Added into an Electrical "Circuit" (Yes-Siree-Bob), as, we Don't want any "Circuit" to Mess-Up the Ohm Readings that we are after, as it applies to the Primary, and, Secondary "Coils" that are "Hiding", inside that there, Oil Filled Ignitions Coils Metal Cylindrical Shaped Metal Containment Shell (or, Body, if you will)...and...(I'm not sure why, but, I sure do Like to "Play" with "Words", as you can see!...lol)....(I figure that, If I keep things Easy Going, with a Bit of "Fun", thrown in for good measure, that it just might make the Learning Experience, or Information Gathering, and, along with (I hope), Entertainment value as well), have my Videos (and Comment Section too), that much more Enjoyable, for the Folks that are looking for Information that I have "Locked" away inside all of these Videos. So, for all of You Folks that are Reading these words, here and now, Please feel free to "Un-Lock" the Information inside any of my Videos, any time that You care to....(hands You the "Key!"...lol). Take care Paul, and, have a good one.

Greetings Amorget....You're welcome, and I'm glad, that, this RU-vid Video of mine was able to help You out, and also, thanks for watching, and commenting too....The "Ohm's" Readings, that show up as being with-in "Specifications" on both, the Primary & Secondary "Windings", are, as I see it, just a, shall we say..."Preliminary Test", as there just might, come a time, that, I'm thinkin', that, and probably quite "Rarely" as well, that, once a "Faulty" Ignition Coil "Heats Up" to its..."Operating/Engine Compartment"..."Temperature"...then, even though that particular Ignition Coil "Ohm's Testing" was showing...."Good"...that same Ignition Coil..."Might"...(and rarely at that), "Not Work" as it was Designed/Supposed to....In other words, that, shall we say..."Faulty/Suspect/Questionable"..."Ignition Coil", just might..."Break Down", when it arrived at its "Operating Temperature", and either, start to Function..."Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...!!! There is one, shall I call it..."Major" thing to watch out for, and that..."Thing" happens to be, the "Supply Voltage/Current" that gets "Sent/Connected" to the Ignition Coil's (usually)...Positive or + (+ = Plus Sign) Terminal on the Common (North American) Vehicles, that have...Negative or - (- as in Minus Sign) "Grounded" Electrical Systems, where usually, the Vehicle's "Chassis or Frame"...IS"...the (Negative) Ground. Watch out now....as, Some of the much "Older" Vehicles "Electrical Systems"..."Might" have Installed in them, "Either"..."Negative"..."Or"..."Positive" (Electrical) "Grounding"...But..."Might" also have, a..."6-Volt"...or a..."12-Volt"..."Battery"...that resides in the..."Vehicle" in question...!!! Then, depending on the "Actual" Ignition Coil in question, it may, or may Not "Require" a "Ballast Resistor", which will usually show up, in the Form of...a "Resistance Wire" (usually, can be found in quite a few General Motors vehicles)..or...a "Ceramic" (usually white-ish in color) Type of Ballast Resistor, that has the "Job", of "Reducing/Limiting" (and I'm thinkin') Electrical "Current", that as I see it, should result in the required "Voltage Drop", to "Prevent" that particular "Ballast Equipped" Ignition Coil...from..."Burning Up" (aka, Non-Functional any more...Kaput)...!!! Depending on "Ignition/Electrical System" Installed in some Vehicles, that I have worked on (mostly North American/Domestic Vehicles, as in, General Motors, Dodge, Ford, etc.), would usually Allow "Full" Battery Voltage (in this case, Nominal 12-Volts), to make its way to the Ignition Coil, but, "Only" while in the process of Starting the Engine, and with the Starter Motor in Operation. When in "Starting Mode", the Engine's "Starter Motor", just might Draw as much as, oh, could be about, and up to about 200 Amps (aka, Amperes), depending on, just How much Power/Torque, that the Engine demanded of that poor ole Starter Motor. Now then, with All of that Electrical Current being "Drawn" (up to, maybe 200 Amps), from the Vehicle's Battery, has me thinkin', that, the Battery's "Voltage", would probably "Drop", to somewhere, in the neighborhood, of oh, about "9-Volts" maybe, thus, as I see, would be the reason, that, there is usually, a "Separate" Battery nominal 12-Volt Supply Wire, which, will usually "By-Pass" the "Ballast Resistor" all-together...!!!... ...then... ...once the Engine "Starts, and keeps Running", the Position of the Ignition Key/Switch, goes from..."Starting Position"...to the..."Run Position"...and as I've learned/experienced, while the Ignition Switch/Key is in the "Run" Position, the Battery's nominal 12 Volts, could be "Increased" to, oh about, 14.5 Volts, when the Vehicle's "Charging System" becomes "Operational", and, the "Ballast Resistance", that, was like I said earlier, was in the Form of, a "Resistance Wire" (General Motors), or, of the "Ceramic" Type, which will "Reduce" or "Limit" the Electrical "Current", that will result in the "Correct"...Voltage "Drop", that will be "Low" enough to keep the Ignition Coil from "Burning Up", as well as...Not being "Too Low", as that would make for, one, "Not So Good" & probably, quite "Weak" and maybe "Not Functioning"...Ignition Coil. So, in a Nut-Shell, here's what we have... ...and... ...a very Good comparison, would be, just like the following, and shall we also say...descriptive...good ole saying... ...and, that saying is... ..."The Chain is Only as Strong as the Weakest Link"...!!!... ...or, as in... ...it "Only" takes "One" Questionable/Intermittent/Not so Good...Electrical Component or Wiring "Connection", to mess things up, which keeps Us All, from havin' a good day... ...with all that, said and done, I would like to end with... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Tropicalan....Thanks for Your nice comment, and for watching too..................This rather long (time-wise), RU-vid Video of mine, will hopefully be able to help a Person, get started, on the, shall we say basics maybe, but, I've been doing quite a bit of studying, on some of the Ignition Coils that are out there, and, when a Person digs in really deep (hopefully not over their head, kinda like me...lol), and kinda sees, just how involved, an automotive type of ignition coil gets, as in, seeing how one performs, and how the a Spark Pattern (trace) looks, on the Display Screen of an Oscilloscope, then, it's as though, we might be nearing, Rocket Science territory after-all...maybe...???...lol....................If You ever have to replace, or maybe even upgrade, any of the parts or pieces, in any Ignition System/Circuit..."Make Sure"..that, the New Component/Part, is With-in, the..."Exact Specifications"...for that..."Exact"...Ignition System/Circuit, or, maybe, just a Weak Spark, at the Spark Plugs, or, in a worse case scenario, one or more of those Components/Parts, gets..."Fried"...and hopefully, without starting a..."Fire"...at the very same time...!!!...Yikes...!!!....................Thanks again, my Friend, and...........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Joe Grove Greetings Joe Grove....You are very Welcome, and, Thanks for watching, and for, Your Super comment as well................................................I'm glad, that this RU-vid video of mine, was somewhat able, to help You understand, what's basically going on, with this type of..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...and, it usually..."Outputs"..."Less Secondary High Voltage"...to the Spark Plugs, as compared to some of the, shall we say..."High Energy" (aka, in terms of something like a General Motors/Chevy...etc., HEI, or High Energy Ignition...Ignition Coil, that is some cases, has an Epoxy Type of Ignition Coil, mounted right "In", and on Top of the Distributor's, distributor Cap, that I've seen, since about 1975)..............................................The..."Oil Filled Ignition Coil"...that You see in this video of mine, had a few Things to be aware of, as well as, something like, having only, .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch) Spark Plug "Gaps" (as opposed to, some of the Spark Plug "Gaps", that can be anywhere from, .045" to .080"...that be, forty-five thousandths of an inch, and, as I've seen, up to, eighty thousandths of an inch...!!!...in an Ignition System, that had, the, shall we say..."Higher Energy/Higher Secondary Voltage"...Ignition Coils).......................................................Just keep in mind, that whenever the Spark Plug "Gap-Size" gets Larger, the Higher the Ignition Coil's..."Secondary High Voltage Output"...has to be, in order to be able to..."Jump the Larger Gap"...between the Spark Plug's..."2 Electrodes"............................................Also, whenever the Spark Plug's "Gaps" Increase, due to the Electrical "Arcing/Spark" Erosion (wear), more-so, on the Older, Regular type of spark plugs, this "Extra" spark plug "Gap", puts quite a "Strain", on the Ignition Coil, and also, just like a Bank Account running out of Money, an Ignition Coil, can also run out of, what is known as..."Ignition Reserve".............................................That's when, the Ignition Coil, can, shall we say..."No Longer Keep Up"...with the amount of..."High Secondary Voltage"...that, those "Worn out Spark Plugs"...with the..."Increased Gaps"...are..."Demanding"...in order to, be able to..."Make the Jump"...between those..."2, Increased Gap, spark plug Electrodes"...due to that..."Spark/Arc Erosion" (Wear, Worn, or Worn-out spark plugs)...that I was mentioning just a short time ago...................................................In most cases, that I've seen, these "Oil Filled Ignition Coils", with a few exceptions (as some of the oil filled ignition coils, might have internal winding specifications, that, as I see it, should eliminate the need for an "External" ballast resistor), have, what is referred to, as a..."Ballast Resistor"...and usually, found in the Wiring Circuit, just before the Oil Filled type of Ignition Coil, in the form of, a "Ceramic Type" (usually white-ish in color)...or, in some General Motors (up to about 1974) Vehicles...a..."Special Resistance Wire"...which, will..."Reduce the Primary, Battery Voltage"...that goes to the Ignition Coil...(now get this)...which will also..."Reduce the Oil Filled Ignition Coil's, Secondary High Voltage Output"...!!!.............But why, You ask...???.............So, that poor ole, Oil Filled (type), of Ignition Coil..."Does Not Burn Itself Out"...due to having, shall we say..."Too long of a Saturation Time" (aka, called Dwell, which is the time it takes, to charge up the ignition coil...Before it goes "Zap"), with, Too High of a..."Primary" (full Battery Voltage)...(as opposed to, the "Reduced Voltage", that the Ballast Resistor...Supply's...to the oil filled type of Ignition Coil).................................................So, always..."Make Sure"...that You..."Purchase/Buy, and Install"...the..."Exact, and Specified"..."Ignition Coil"..."Ballast Resistor" (if so equipped?)...and..."All Specified Parts"...for Your..."Exact, Ignition System"...that is..."In Your Vehicle"...as well as, the..."Correct Spark Plugs"...that have the Spark Plug..."Electrodes, Gapped"...to the..."Specified Gap Setting"...so that Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil"..will be able to..."Give a Good Strong Spark, at All Times"...and also, for it to Live, a Long Happy Life as well, that will also, spare You, from spending Money needlessly, on a "New" Ignition Coil (and maybe Other Parts, as well perhaps?).............................................One other thing..............Although, just about any Ignition Coil, might..."Test OK"...with an..."Ohm/Multi-Meter"...there are times, quite rarely at that, that, an...Ignition Coil"...can sometimes..."Not Work Properly" (perhaps Intermittently)...or maybe..."Not At All"...when it..."Heats Up" (ballpark scenario = fully warmed up Engine, to Operating Temperature perhaps)............................Last, but not least, there is, a really good ole Saying, that I like to use, at times (maybe even Over-Use...lol), and that good ole saying is..."The Chain is only as Strong as the Weakest Link" (as in Snap!), when it comes to, just about anything, but seeing as how the subject matter, is about a Vehicle's Ignition System, and its Component Parts, Wiring, and the "Ignition Coil" itself, all it takes is..."One Little, Bad/Faulty, Wiring Connection"...or..."Faulty Part"...to keep Our, usually..."Quite Reliable Ignition System"...from..."Doin' its Thing"...Properly, and as it should...............................................................Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment, my Friend....................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Your welcome and Thanks for this extra info!! I know a lot about motors and the mechanics of them, I have a 1932 chevy coupe rat rod, a 1967 Kaiser M715, and a few bikes. My only problem was electronics. But thanks again!!

Greetings...vetterfellow.............Thanks kindly, for your nice comment, oh, and, thanks for watching too...........Well, I heard, quite some time ago, that, an ignition coil might wear out, due to "thermal cycling" (I think?), where-by, an ignition coil might start out very cold, temperature-wise (let's think in terms of, something like winter, way up north, shall we), then, that poor ole ignition coil, starts getting heated-up to operating temperature, while in operation, then, after the engine gets turned off, back to cold, "it" goes again.............Now then, let's say, that the car, truck, or what-ever, only gets used once per day, then, I'm thinkin' that, that alone, would amount to 365 "thermal cycles" per year.............Then, multiply 365 x (times) the number of years, that, the ignition coil can still do its job properly...Holy-gwalk-ah-moly, that's a lot of contracting & expanding, that, that poor ole ignition coil, has to endure, and, that's only based on, "one thermal cycle per day"...!!! (probably be much more, for a vehicle, that has to fetch...kids...groceries...beer...&...go to work too...lol)............Just recently, I got curious, as to the diameter, of both, the primary windings, and the secondary windings, that get hidden away, inside of, an automotive type of ignition coil............The primary wire (windings) diameter, is quite thick, when being compared to, that of, the secondary wire (windings) diameter............I'm not sure about the primary wire size/diameter, oh, maybe between, about 1/32, to almost 1/16th of an inch maybe, but, the secondary wire diameter, can probably be compared to, the size (diameter) of, now get this, a...Human Hair...!!!...Wowsers...!!!...&...that be, about .003" (three thousandths of an inch) in diameter (impressive, I must say)...........Generically speaking, there are about 100 turns of secondary wire/windings, for every one turn, of primary wire/windings (quite the turns ratio alright)...........That turns ratio difference, is pretty much, what increases that nominal, 12 volt battery voltage, up-to, the many thousands of volts, that are required, in order to create, that good ole "spark", between the spark plug's electrodes, in general terms, that is...........I sure as heck, would never, ever, even want to attempt, trying to hand-wind, those .003" diameter secondary windings...no way...but, in my teen years, I did hand-wind, a few slot car motor's, 3 pole armatures, and that, was about as close ,as I'll probably ever get, to becoming a "watch-maker", oh, and yes, of course, a..."Rolex"...watch-maker...!!!...lol...........Thanks again, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Cobby Sparks ....Greetings Cobby Sparks....Thanks for watching.................Well, I sure appreciate, what You said, about me, making a great teacher, and thanks kindly for that..................Even I'm kinda surprised, at how long I was talkin', in this RU-vid, Ignition Coil Video of mine, and, perhaps it could very well be, as they say, as in..."Time really Flies"...!!!...lol.............If an Ignition Coil, Checks out Ok, Ohms/Resistance-wise, there can be times (rarely), where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-Up, and Not work so good, once it warms/heats up-to Operating Temperature, which might result in, some Ignition related Misfiring (basically, just means, that, the Air/Fuel Mixture, in any of the Engine's Cylinders, isn't Burning properly)....................Thanks again, for Your nice comment, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....Thanks for watching, and for, Your interesting comment as well.............................................I thought that I'd go the extra mile, and mention a few things while I was at it, as it pertains to, some of the, shall we say, Information, that was found, in, some of the RU-vid Videos that I have made to date................................................Hmmmmmm...now I'm thinkin', that, perhaps a Person could compare Me, to that of a "Waiter", that gave that "Table of Four"..."Outstanding Service and Consideration"...in that..."Fine Dining Restaurant"...where You were at, a few months ago.............................................I usually don't Receive "Tips" in the Customary sense of the word, but rather, those, shall we say "Tips", that I like Receiving, do, for the most part, present Themselves, in the Form of, some "Well Appreciated"..."Comments".................................................You were most Generous, as I was only expecting 10% of the Bill, and here, You and the Three Others, that were in Your Dinner Party.............(hold on, It's my Mental Math time, as I'm running the Extra Coinage through my Gray Matters Computer, and)..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...It's lookin' like, Your Party of Four, left Me a..."46 Dollar Tip" (in the Form of, the "46" Words, that Formed Your Comment, that is)...................................................Thanks again for Your "Tip"...ooops...I meant to say...Comment.............................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

thanks! my dads a master electrician and my grandfather is an electrical engineer so I love things like this! I've grown up around things like this and they've always intrigued me to learn and hear things new ways.

Marshall Smith Greetings Marshall Smith....You're welcome, and..................................................maybe ask, both Your Dad and Your Grandfather, if they recall seeing the good ole..."Knob and Tube"...Electrical Wiring System, for Houses that were built somewhere in the earlier half of the 1900's...and...maybe, They might also remember seeing things like, oh, something like when the House's Electric Panel, had...Screw in Fuses...before, during, and after, the, shall we say, Transition to, the more modern style of..."Circuit Breakers".......................................................Maybe while I'm at it, perhaps also ask Them, about possibly seeing, the good ole...Galvanized Steel Pipe (then after that, Copper, then Plastic), that was used for the House's Water Supply Piping System, and, last but not least, that good ole...Cast Iron Plumbing Soil Pipe...that was joined together by, Molten Lead (pronounced Led) and Oakum, to pack the joint, (then later went to Plastic and Glue)...............................................Now there's some "History" for Ya...!!!............................Be Safe, Take care, and have a good one.

Our house still has the screw in fuses, May be antiquated but still works fine haha, we have a breakerbox on the outside of the house for things added over the years, but I'll bd sure to ask them about the others!

+bargwahn89 ....Greetings bargwahn89....Thanks for the great comment, and, Thanks for watching too..................There appears to be..."No End in Sight"...when it comes to the Automobile, and other Things, that have Engines, in/on them as well, that's for sure (I think...???...lol)..................If You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, feel free, to post a comment or question, under any of my RU-vid Videos, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and thanks, for your nice comment, and for, watching too...…….Even though, an ignition coil, might check out alright, and, it's within specifications, while doing a low and high ohms test, and is, at room temperature, for example, then, that's not always, a guarantee, that, it will work properly, when it heats up to operating temperature, where sometimes, a faulty, (older?) ignition coil, might not work properly, just so Ya know...……...There's a thing, usually called thermal cycling, where-by, something like, the ignition coil's windings, are kinda cool, temperature-wise, before the engine is started, then, once the ignition coil heats up to operating temperature (maybe even higher, due to engine compartment heat), with the engine running, then, let the expanding begin, then, the engine is shut down, then, all of those coil windings, do the contracting (shinking) thing, and, this, so-called, thermal cycling, pretty much happens, every time, that the engine gets started and stopped, over, and over again...……..Might be, that, the secondary coil windings, are about the same diameter (thickness), as a human hair, there-abouts, and, there are probably thousands of turns, that make up that very same, (secondary) coil (of windings)…!!!...Wowsers…!!!...lol...…….So, yeah, there can come a time, maybe, where an ignition coil, just, plain wears out, and probably applies more to, the oil filled (canister, type of) ignition coil, I be thinkin'...….and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@@RockysRoadshow you have no idea how suprised i was ,to see a reply.. never expected ,nor thoughg of , for that matter. After reading, to discover, even more that i was unaware of.. amd for mynew recent learning. Thats what is comeimg in to play ,with my trouble shooting , you just saved me closee to half day of diginose in ,,,THANK YOU so much ,, Yaknow theirs alot of time ive wasted , problem solving,and that time i wont getpack.. its rare that im given time back ... so thx for give n me a day .. and knowinh how things are im sure,it wil, bewasted on another project, , lol. But not all of it lol. Lessons learned applied.. thx

Greetings...BOBBY227BMF...……..You're welcome, and, it's good to know, that, some of this stuff, was able to help you out a bit...……..Try to keep all of the parts and pieces, that make up your vehicle's ignition system, in, as new, working condition, as well as, adjusted/set to specifications, as in, the spark plug's "gap", that's between those two electrodes (please note, that, some spark plug designs, are not "gapable/adjustable", or maybe, they could get damaged)…………Always use, an ignition coil, or coils, as the case may be, that have the same, "Exact Specifications", as the factory/manufacturer's "Original" one has...……..As an example, on some of the much older, cylindrically shaped, and filled with oil, ignition coils, there use-tah be, either, 1.5 ohms, or, 3 ohms, "Primary" resistance, and, the 1.5 ohm coil, would probably have had, a ballast resistor, in its electrical circuit, where-as, the 3 ohm coil, would have, probably not, used one at all...!!!...……….So yeah, always use the "correctly specified" ignition components, that, that particular vehicle's engine, calls for, and needs, and...…..till next time...…...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Jesse Flaman...........Thanks for the nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too...........Here's some info for Ya............Even though a certain type of Ignition Coil, appears to look about the same, as some of the other ones out there, while looking at the outside of it, then please, don't assume, that, they share the Same "Specifications", and depending on how an Ignition Coil is to be used, and, in what-ever application, it just might be, then, if the (ignition) "Circuit", is Not Correct/close enough, then, the Ignition Coil in question, might end up having, a Low Output, or, might even end up, having that poor ole Ignition Coil, Over-Heat, and Fry itself..............From what I recall, each type of Ignition Coil, has a Saturation (charge-up) Time (usually measured in milliseconds, as in, one thousandths of a second, time-wise), and, should only be Saturated/Charged-Up, with Up-to, the Maximum number of Amps/Amperes, that is Specified, for that Exact ignition coil, and probably, for not too long, time-wise either, and will probably have a primary voltage rating as well..............If the Amps, get too High, and for too long, time-wise, then, more than likely, that poor ole Ignition Coil will probably get way too Hot, and Cook itself.................Also, make sure that the Voltage input, on the Primary/Low Volts side, of that particular Ignition Coil, is as Specified, as some of the much older Ignition Coils, or maybe certain applications, are rated for 6-Volts (not the more common, 12-Volt ignition coils, that we are seeing in vehicles these days)..............Some of the older Points and Condenser Distributors, that controlled the Saturation/Charge-Up time, for the cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils (like the one that I used as a Prop, in this RU-vid video of mine), usually had a fixed Dwell (charge-up) time, and, for a V-8 engine, it was usually fixed, at about 30 (distributor) Degrees, and was, way too Much dwell (time), at idle speed, so, a Ballast Resistor (be it, a special Resistance Wire, or, the whitish colored, Ceramic Block type), had to be placed, in the (engine) "Run" Circuit (not the Starting Circuit), so, as to, Lower the Amps, that were fed to the Primary side of the ignition coil, in order to protect the ignition coil, from excessive Heat and Destruction..............Some of the cylindrically shaped/oil filled Ignition Coils, had a Higher Resistance, on the Primary (low volts side)...for example, probably a bit higher than 3 Ohms, and, might not need a separate Ballast Resistor at all, seeing as how, the Primary Resistance was already adequate, for that particular ignition system/circuit..............To equal that, just higher than 3-Ohms, stand alone ignition coil, just mentioned, and using, something like, a slightly higher than, 1.5 Ohm (primary resistance) ignition coil, then, all we have to add (into the circuit), is a Ballast Resistor, that will make up, that Extra 1.5 Ohms, or a bit higher, that, when both added together, will equal that stand alone ignition coil's primary Resistance, that was just over, that, about 3 ohms, primary Resistance value.............Now why bother using a Ballast Resistor at all...???...well, here's probably why..............When the engine's Starter Motor is in operation, it can draw, up to about 200 Amps, give or take some, and then, the Voltage, will usually Drop down Lower, oh, maybe down to about 9 Volts (in a 12 Volt battery System), and, the Output, of that, just over 3-Ohm ignition coil, would probably be quite Weak, oh and, a Cold engine, needs all the help it can get, ignition-wise, that is...............Now then, by using a 1.5 Ohm ignition coil, "Without" the Ballast Resistor, in the Starting Circuit, then, this ignition coil's Output would probably be quite Strong, seeing as how it's only working with that, about 9 Volts, that's available, when the Starter Motor is workin'...............But, once the engine Starts, the ignition Key/Switch, then goes, into the "Run" position, and Adds-in the Ballast Resistor, in that (Run) Circuit, so once, Full Battery Voltage (and Amps) are available again (cuz, the starter motor is now ah-sleep...lol), and the (battery) charging system kicks in, we now have, just over 3 Ohms of Resistance, being the primary resistance of the ignition coil (1.5 ohms)...Plus...the Ballast Resistor's Resistance (1.5 ohms), added together, which ends up being about the same, as that, just above, 3 ohm ignition coil, which will keep the Amps, that are fed to the ignition coil, from getting too high, and the ignition coil, won't be getting too Hot, and going Kaput..............The above, is just an example, to hopefully, be of some help to You (I hope)...............Good Luck with Your project, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

chummel123 Greetings chummel123....Thanks for Your Great comment, and for watching as well, my Friend..........................................Most of the RU-vid Videos, that I have made so far, are pretty much done, without a Script or Tele-Prompter, well, with the exception of the odd note, with some numbers/specifications, written on a piece of paper, and off to the side, from time to time, and out of the Camera's field of view, and, for the most part, once the Video Camera's Record Button gets pressed, then, what the Video Camera, is actually picking up, Audio-wise, as to what-ever it is, that I'm Saying, at any particular point in time, in any given Video, really is, shall we say..."Live"...well, at the point in time, that the Video Camera is actually Recording, that is............................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...sure, I'm gonna be makin' a Mistake here and there, and the evidence is readily, either, Heard or Seen, in any of my Videos, and, when-ever I happen to make, a, shall we say..."Boo-Boo"...then, there it is, but hey, that was pretty much my intention all along, and, I guess, that One could say, I'm just being "Real", as opposed to, all of that..."Glitz & Glam"...and that, shall we say..."Alternate Reality"...when-ever, You or I, happen to be "Immersed"...in a..."CGI-Like-Environment"...or the like.................................About the only Editing, that is done, to any of my RU-vid Videos, would usually be that, of adding a Speech Bubble, every now and again, where I figure, any given Video, would benefit from having one or more of them, added to "It".............................Thanks again, for Your much appreciated comment...................Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+john wright Greetings john wright....Thanks for watching, and Thanks, for Your very Appreciated comment, as well, my Friend............................We, just have to remember, to always "Check/Verify", the Ohm-Meter or Multi-Meter, for "O or Zero" Ohms/Calibration, especially so, when-ever, about to take/measure, those very "Low Ohms" Readings, on the Primary side, of an Ignition Coil, for Accuracy's sake, that's for sure.......................I should also add, that, even though a certain Ignition Coil, tests out OK, Ohms-wise, while usually being at about room temperature, there-abouts, there can be a times, where an Ignition Coil might start Acting-up, and, not work so well, or, maybe stop working all-together, once, that now (Ohms-Un-Detect-able), Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, or hotter...!!!.............................Just goes to show, that, "Ohm's Testing", an already used Ignition Coil, might not be, the, Be-All-End-All "Test", to confirm, it to be 100% Good and Functional, and, I guess, that, One could say, that, it's just one more, of "Life's"...little........................."Surprises"...lol........................Thanks again, and...........till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings Keith Nordquist....Thanks for the nice comment, my Friend, and, it's nice to know, that my Video was able to help you out as well....Just remember, that an Ignition Coil is just "One Part" of the entire Ignition System, as, it only takes "One" questionable (not so good) Wiring "Connection" to prevent your Ignition System from Functioning at its "Best!" (or, at all, for that matter). Take care, and, have a good one.

Greetings Richard Norton....You are welcome, and, I'm glad that You liked what I had to show and tell, You and Others (in this video of mine), about, a rather simple way, that a Person can at least, Test and See, that, the particular Ignition Coil being Tested, doesn't have any "Open" or "Shorted"..."Windings" (aka, the 2 rather long wires that Form each Coil inside this type of ignition coil), when being Tested with an Ohm/Multimeter....This so called Ignition Coil Test (in this video), is really, only, the "Tip of the Iceberg", so to speak, as, Ignition Coils, can at times "Miss-Behave", when they "Heat-Up" to Operating Temperature (and that usually includes, that nice Hot engine compartment as well). It's also Very Important, that, "All" Wiring, and Wiring "Connections" be 100% Clean and Dry, or, Ignition Problems might start Happening! Like You, I do find it rather "Fascinating", that the Ignition Coil can actually "Change" the 12 Volts (or whatever the Battery Voltage happens to be in a particular Vehicle, with some having a 6 Volt Battery), and shall we say "Boost" that quite Low Battery Voltage, into a Voltage, that is usually in the "Thousands of Volts"...!!! Be Very Careful while being near any of that "High Voltage Electricity", while the Engine is Running, that comes out of the Ignition Coil, and any of the Ignition System's "Secondary Circuitry" (aka, spark plug "Wires/Leads"), because, if there happens to be a "Faulty" spark plug "Wire/Lead", that Very "High Voltage" can Really "Zap" You...!!! Also, "Watch Out" for any "Hot and Moving" Parts...!!! Thanks again, for Your well appreciated comment... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Stone Rinaldi Greetings Stone Rinaldi....You are Welcome, and, Thanks, for the nice comment, that You posted here, as well, my Friend........Well, this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video, sure turned out to be, Rather Long, Time-wise, that is, and, seeing as, I guess, One could say, that, "Time Fly's", as it really did, while I was Making this particular Video, and, even I was Surprised, when I looked at the, shall we say, "Running Time/Length", of this, perhaps, Too Long/total running time, Video of mine, had me Thinkin', for quite some time, that, perhaps, "I Really Should Make a Shorter Version", of this "Ignition Coil Testing" Video...and..."I DID"...lol..........................................It's on My RU-vid Channel...RockysRoadshow...and also, I Did Make, a "Shorter Version", of an "HEI" Ignition Coil Testing Video, as well ("HEI"...stands for, "High Energy Ignition", Distributor/System, that, GMC/General Motors, started to Install on Their Vehicles, starting, oh, about 1975, there-abouts), and, I'm currently, Making a RU-vid..."Video Series"...about, just that (so far, I have made "3-Videos")...........Well, there You have it, for now, that is..............Till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Gavin Harrison ....Greetings Gavin Harrison....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for Your Great Comment, oh and, Thanks for watching as well, my Friend, and.......till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings jim Davidson..................Thanks for watching...............I agree with You, about having, both, the Primary & Secondary Coil Windings, "Totally Submerged", in that, shall we call it, "Cooling Oil" alright, if possible, that is...................You'd think that, the Dodge, Factory/Folks, would think the same, as in "Vertically Mounting" the oil filled type of Ignition Coil, as in, the Secondary, High Voltage "Tower", pointing Up-Wards, towards the Sky, but, this particular oil filled Ignition Coil, that You saw, in this RU-vid Video of mine, was Factory mounted, in the "Horizontal" position, at the back, and on top-of, the small block V-8's Intake Manifold, by means of a metal bracket........................This, slightly Leaking Oil, Ignition Coil of mine, was, and is, still Ok, but, I installed a brand spankin' New one, that I purchased, at a genuine, Dodge Dealership, back in the day.......................I recall, hearing-about, someone, who was sayin' that, when the (oil filled, type of) Ignition Coil (of his or hers) was Shaken, a quite pronounced, shall we say, "Sloshing Sound" was heard, which leads me, to be thinkin', that, our Friend, the "Air Bubble", just might be very BIG at that, and I hope not, cuz of, the increased possibility, of "it", perhaps Over-Heating, and going Kaput...!!!...Yikes...!!! (and, I'll even throw in a lol, just for good measure as well...lol).......................So then, assuming, that our (hypothetical & Imaginary), oil filled, type of Ignition Coil, happens to be "Vertically" mounted, with the Maximum amount of (cooling) Oil permissible, inside of it, is only the start (of things), as in, the Ignition Coil, has to be With-in the ohms/resistance "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and now the rest.................If the Ignition System/Circuit, happens to have, the good ole, oil filled type of Ignition Coil, along with, oh, lettuce say, it's the AC Delco, Points & Condenser, type of, V-8 Distributor (used, up-till, about 1974 there-abouts, that has that slide-up & down, sheet metal "window", on the distributor cap, that allows access, with a Hex/Allen-key, to adjust the points-dwell/gap), shall we, then, the Condenser (aka, Capacitor), that's usually Hiding-inside the distributor, under the distributor cap, has to have, the "Specified" Condenser (probably Rated in Micro-Farads), for that "Exact" Ignition System/Circuit as well, and there's even More, to all of this, as well (still Awake...???...lol).............If there happens to be a "Ballast Resistor" (Ceramic, or, Resistance Wire type, then "it" has to be With-n "Specifications" as well....................Now then, I'll end all of this Madness, with the Spark Plug's "Gap" (that's between the two Electrodes).................The Higher, the Engine's Compression Ratio, along with, a LARGER, spark plug "Gap", pretty much, makes it so, that, our, poor ole Ignition Coil, has to Work, all that much harder, seeing as how, it makes it, much more of a challenge, to be able to create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, now that, and as I mentioned before, about the Higher Compression Ratio, in conjunction with, that Increased, and quite LARGE spark plug "Gap", and, as I like to put it, is that, it Creates, quite the "Strain", on the Ignition Coil...!!!....and maybe, so much so, that, this particular Ignition Coil...gets...Over-Worked...and will probably...Over-Heat...and go..."Kaput"...!!! (aka, Non-Functional anymore).................Just thinkin'........some Folks, might just Install, an Ignition System, "Component/Part" or two, that might "Not-Be"...With-in "Specifications", for that "Exact", Ignition System/Circuit, and I'll even bet, that, so many of the Problems, that we hear-about, are probably, due to the "Miss-Matched" Ignition Parts, Not-Getting-Along-With-Each-Other, which will probably make-for, a Poorly Running Engine, or, an Engine, that might not even Start, when all's said and done...???...................So, there You have it, well, for now that is, and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Brad Miller...............Thanks for watching..............Well, I did make a "Shorter" Version of this particular video, some time ago, and its running time, is about 8 minutes & change (damn, almost down to the 5 minutes that You mentioned...!!!...lol)..............Just make sure, that, when-ever taking an Ohm-Reading, on the Low/Primary side of the Ignition Coil, that, the Ohm-Meter, is Tested for 0/Zero Calibration before-hand, and if it shows anything above 0/Zero Ohms on the Low Scale, when the 2 Ohm-Meter's Probes are connected together, then, that Figure, (if applicable), has to be accounted for, otherwise, there might be a possible situation, where-by, a good Ignition Coil, may appear to be, "not with-in", the Manufacturer's Specifications, and.........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Different people have seen this video & some of them don't know about most of the information you explained in this video , so it must take more minutes ,therefore this video deserve time which is taken

If you know the 101 in the beginning, no big hassle to forward it test. At least it caters for all groups in 1 simple video!

Greetings Joseph Ficker....You are welcome, and, Thanks for your kind words as well....This particular Ignition Coil Testing video was my first one....I have since made a much "Shorter Version", on how to test that very same Ignition Coil, and, for what it's worth, I thought that I just might mention that....If you care to, I have quite a few Videos pertaining to Automotive stuff, that you might be interested in, on my RU-vid Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...in the Search Box, at the top of RU-vid's Main Page....That, my Friend, should bring up a Listing of the 70-odd Videos that I have available, at this point in time...Enjoy....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Bigmack73.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Make sure to use the "exact" ignition coil, for your vehicle, or, there might be a problem..........With the older cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, there were basically, two different, low ohms "specifications", on the primary (low ohms) side, of those two sample ignition coils.........Could be, a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, that, also had to have, a "ballast resistor" connected to it, or, it would probably "over-heat", and destroy itself...!!!..........Then, there could be a 3 ohm ignition coil (measured on the primary/low side), that "did not", need a ballast resistor, connected to it at all..........So, always make sure, to install the "exact"..."Specified"...ignition coil, for the vehicle in question, to avoid any problems or expense, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+silberkondorin ....Greetings silberkondorin....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...just like that good ole Sayin', that goes something like this..."Money Talks...and...Bull-**** Walks"...!!!...lol......................Even though, an Ignition Coil, might "Check-out Ok", while do-in the Ohms-Testing, there are times, where, a, shall we say, Not-so-Good (Faulty) Ignition Coil, just might, start to "Act-Up", and make for, an Engine, that could very well, "Not Idle, and/or, Not-Run-So-Good", and if really Bad, then, even a Passenger, in that particular Vehicle, would probably notice it......................Well, using Money, for the Math...Comparison/Visualization...is one thing, but now, I'm getting Really Hungry, so Lettuce now talk about Food, shall we................I remember, way back in High School, and the word Desert, or was it Dessert, came-up, and, here's what our English Teacher, had to tell Us (the Students), that was a Really "Simple Way", to "Remember", which was which........................No-Sir-ee-Bob...keep Your Money-in-Ur-Pocket...Purse...or what-ever...cuz...now, We're talkin' "Food"...Remember...???...lol....so now...here I goes..."Desert", only has One "S" in it, where-as "Dessert" has Two of those "S" letters in it, and, Our English Teacher, was Sayin', just Remember..."Strawberry Shortcake"...cuz...that's the..."Dessert"...Word, that has those Two "S" letters in it, and besides, Who in Their right Mind, would want to Eat a "Desert" anywayz...!!!...(Damn Cactus Needles...!!!)...lol........................So, there You have it, and............till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one (as in, a nice, BIG Piece of "Strawberry Shortcake"...perhaps...???)...

Greetings Marcus Pinnock....I'm glad that this/my (Oil Filled) Ignition Coil Testing Video was able to help you out, and, Thanks kindly, for Your Support, and much Appreciated Comment as well, my Friend....Now, as for "Not Responding" to the Negative Comments, that I have received on some of my RU-vid Videos so far, well, I Welcome, "Any, and All Comments", be it (them), Good, or, Not So-Good, and, even the Nasty-Ones, that, by the way, I Do find, quite Entertaining, and, if it happens to come to a "Battle of Wits" or "Minds", I will be more then "Willing" to "Engage" with these "Folks" (People), with my (Never Ending Supply) of My "Very-Playful-Dialogue/Vocabulary"....Is there Anyone out there wanting to play the Role of, "Lets-Get-Rocky", well, my Immediate Response to "Them" is..."Just Bring It!!!"...lol. But, you know Marcus, I have, and do, for the most part, try to View Issues, or Problems from different Perspectives (as in, look at the Subject at hand, from different Angles), because, if you don't, you usually become "Self-Centered" ,and some-what "Arrogant". I try my best, not to fall into Either of the Two (2) Categories, as stated in the last paragraph. Now for the "Catch 22", or, in other words, kinda like "Dammed-if-You-Do, and, Dammed if You Don't". By saying, what I just said, to me, just means to "Access-the-Situation" and, "Respond-in-a-Well-Meaning-Manner"....Confused?, Me Too!...lol All-Righty then, Some Folks (People), and not very many at that, were Commenting on a few of my RU-vid Videos, that they were "Way Too Long" (Time-Wise), and, I honestly, Do see Their Point. I figure that, the People that "Were-in-a-Hurry" were probably People that had Already been through "Basic-Training", meaning that, they happened to Possess the "Basics" (you know, already know how to Use/Read a Meter/Multimeter) and, as it relates to the Needed "Knowledge" to proceed to the "Actual" (and in this case), Testing of an Oil Filled Ignition Coil with an Ohm/Multimeter. So, in some Previous Posts, that I Commented on (Replied to), I made Two (2) basic Comments, and, those Two (2) Comments were, that, I would perhaps make, or, re-make, some Videos that will have a "Shorter" Running-Time (in, minutes and seconds, hopefully...lol), and the other Comment/Reply, was Informing the people that were "In-a-Hurry", to just "Advance" the (as they say, Too Long) Video, by, using the "Slider" (button?) at the bottom of the "Video Player" to "Advance" the Video to the Place where they can "View/Hear" the Information that they happen to be after. Wowsers!...Sometimes, I feel like I'm "Trapped" in an "Old Saying", the one that kinda states, that..."You can Lead a Horse to Water, but, you Can't Make him Drink!!!"...lol. The reason that I would make/re-make (possibly, that is) the "Shorter" (time-wise), and especially, the Videos that contained the "Fundamentals", that I, well, kinda Added in some of my Videos, to help-out (benefit) those People that are just Starting-Out, or, in other words, those People that have not had the Experience or Exposure to, the Items/Subjects that I try to Show and Explain in the Videos that I make, and, will be making in the Future, unless Circumstances dictate otherwise, that is, would probably make Life, much more Pleasant for those "So-Much-More-Advanced-Folks", that, happen to be, in such a "Great HURRY!!!"...lol. So, "Im-ah-Lis-en-in", and perhaps, sometime in the Future (down the Road), I will be making some (no Promises now!...lol), so called, "Shorter" (time-wise) "Vid-Ay-Oh's" (aka, Videos, get it?...lol). So, in closing, I would like to just say..."If You Can't Be Good, Be As Good As You Can!"... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Ravi Diasabeygunawardena Greetings Ravi Diasabeygunawardena....You are welcome, and, thanks kindly, for Your Great comment too!..........................................It's good to hear, that, You were able to use some of the Information, in this RU-vid Video of mine, that was able to help You out, somewhat................................................By Testing, just about any Ignition Coil, with an Ohm Meter/Multi-meter, is, as I see it, just a "Preliminary" (aka, as in an Initial, and, Not-so-Complete) Test, so to speak, as, at times, an Ignition Coil, may appear to be Faulty, and Not be Working, all that well, or, even, Not at all, and could be either, the Ignition Coil Itself, and/or, could also be, any of the Related Wiring or Electrical Circuitry, that is part and parcel, of the Ignition System, as a Whole (aka, Total, of "All" Ignition System "Related" Parts and Pieces)........................................................Sometimes, an Ignition Coil, can become, Not Working very good, or, might even stop working, maybe even causing some..."Ignition Related"..."Miss-Firing" as well, when it Heats Up, and, Breaks Down, under a Loaded (aka, perhaps, a High Demand of its Output) Operating Condition......................................................So then, let's assume that, the Ignition Coil is in "100% (One Hundred Per-Cent) Working Order", then, any, and..."All Other"..."Ignition System Related"..."Components"..."Circuitry"..."Switches"..."Wiring"...etc., have to be in "100%"..."Working Order"..as well, or, we just might end up with...a Car or Truck, that, might..."Not Start"..."Have a Difficult Time Starting, either Hot or Cold, or, maybe Both"..."Start to Miss-Fire" (Ignition System-wise), and, from what I have seen over the years, I've come to the Point, and, train of thought, that..."I Assume Nothing"...and..."Never Rule Anything Out"...because, even when I thought, that I've seen "Everything"...there are, at times, a..."Thing or Two"...that have..."Shown Up"...that was "Totally Unexpected", and from my perspective..."Un-Thought-of"...as well..."Yikes"..!!!...lol......................................................Here's a pretty good "One", that happened to "Me", quite a few Years ago......................................................When the Engine (350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8, with an Oil Filled ignition coil, that was controlled by, a points & condenser distributor) was "Cold", I Start it up, and Drive away...and...all seems to be alright...then...oh, about 1/2 Mile from Home, the Engine just "Quits, and Stops Running"...!!!...................................................I manage to coast it over to the side of the Road, and park the Car.....................................................I try to Re-Start the Engine...No Luck.....................................................I then wait, oh, about 5 to 10 Minutes, and then, try to Re-Start the Engine...and..."It"..."Starts Right Up", and I Drive away, and the Engine Runs, as if...there "Never Was a Problem" at All..!!!............................................During some Other times, the Engine would Run very good, for hours even...................................................Then, one time, I recall, just Cruising along, then, the Engine, just goes..."Silent"...for a few Seconds...and then..."It"...Starts Running "Again", as though "It" Never went "Silent" at all, in the first place...!!!.........................................I was Convinced, that, it was something to do with the "Fuel System", because, usually, if a person were to Turn Off the Ignition, and seeing how this Chevy V-8 Engine had a Carburetor on It, had me thinkin', that, once the Ignition started "Sparking" again (after Not Sparking, for those Few Seconds), I was also thinkin', that, there should have been some "Raw" (Un-Burned) Air/Fuel Mixture, as supplied by the Carburetor, when the Ignition System, was in the "Off", as in, "Not Operating" at that particular point in time, and, once the Ignition System Began "Sparking Again", I was quite sure, that, the Engine should have had, a nice Big "Back-Fire",Through the Exhaust System, due to, what I thought, would be the Result, of all of that Raw/Un-Burned Gasoline/Air Mixture, getting "Zapped", with that..."Working Again"...and shall I say, at times..."Intermittent"...Ignition System, that I had back then...!!!...................................................Now then, can You "Guess", what was "Causing" all of this "Ghost-Like-Engine-Operation"...???....................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, when I Finally, got to the point, of, Removing the "High Tension Lead/Wire" (just a fancy name for the spark plug-like wire/lead) that "Connects" the (oil filled type) "Ignition Coil's Output Tower Connection/Terminal"....to the..."Center Tower Connection/Terminal, of the Distributor Cap", here's what I "Found" (aka, Discovered).......................................When I looked Down, Inside the High Tension..Lead/Wire's, rubber-like Boot...to look at, the Wire/Lead End Terminal (made of Brass), that supposedly, "Is"..."Supposed to"...be..."Crimped/Connected" to the Lead/Wire's...Internal "Core Conductor"...what I saw, was, that, the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core had..."Arced Away" (aka, Electrically "ERODED") away, from the Brass "Terminal", leaving a "Big Gap", between the Lead/Wire's "Conductive Core", and the "Brass End Terminal", there-for, as I see it, that Very High Ignition Coil's Voltage, was Forced to Jump that "Big Gap", that "Should Not" have been there in the first place...!!!.............................................Yes, indeed, it was rather difficult, to actually Imagine, that, that Quite Large Gap, between the Lead/Wire's Conductive Core, and the Brass End Terminal, could Actually "Cause", that, shall I say..."Very Weird"..."Sometimes Intermittent"...Chevy V-8 Engine..."Behavior"...that I Actually Experienced...!!!......................................................Once I Replaced that "Faulty" High Tension Lead/Wire, that went Between the (oil filled) Ignition Coil, and the Distributor Cap, it was like, I just Installed...an, as New, just broken in, Rebuilt Engine, that, Ran "Super-Duper"..."Yipee"...!!!...lol..............................................So, as You can now see, just when "I" think, that I've "Seen-It-All".."I"..."Have-Not", and that's the way..."The Old Ball Bounces"...weather "I' like it, or not...!!!....lol..........................................Thanks again, for watching, my Friend.................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Thomas J. Minnigan…………You're welcome, and thanks, for the nice comment...……..Whenever replacing an ignition coil, always make sure, to install, the..."correct"...ignition coil, for that..."exact"...engine (and vehicle), or, if not, then, the result might be, a weak spark, or maybe, no spark, showing up, between the spark plug's two electrodes, or perhaps, an ignition coil, that gets too hot/overheats, and destroys itself, some time, after the engine, just starts running...and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Aaron Johnson..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching............Although, an Ignition Coil, will Ohms/Resistance Test Ok, there can be times, where, they can start to act strangely, or, might even quit working, once they get up to operating temperature, or maybe, even hotter..............Maybe, do an internet search, for an (ignition coil) "Spark Tester" (some are even adjustable), cuz, by having a Very LARGE Gap, between the two electrodes, on the Spark Tester, then, that will, shall we say, "Stress Test", that particular Ignition Coil, pretty much meaning, that, the Ignition Coil's...Secondary High Voltage...will try to go...High Enough...and be able to, shall we say..."Jump/Spark, Between that LARGE Gap"...that's between the Spark Tester's, two electrodes..............That LARGE Gap/Distance, between the Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, will usually require, that, a certain amount of "Kilo-Volts" (as in, Thousands of Volts), that, that particular "Gap Size" requires, (in open air/atmosphere), as a minimum, for the ignition coil to produce, in order, to be able to, make the Jump, or, probably, No-Spark, will be seen at all..............Also, that "LARGE Gap", has to be the "Correct" Gap/Distance, for the "Exact" Ignition Coil, that is being (stress) Tested, at that particular time, as, we really don't want to "stress test" any ignition coil, up to the point of..."Infinity and Beyond"...!!! (so to speak), cuz, if that were to happen, then, that particular Ignition Coil, might get Damaged...not good at all.............Let's say, that the High Tension Lead/Wire was Not Connected to the Secondary, High Voltage Tower/Terminal, of an Ignition Coil, like the one that's being shown in this Video of mine, while it was Operating, then, its Secondary High Voltage, would probably try to get High enough, to make the "Jump", to, a too Far away ground source, and, if left in this condition long enough, then, that poor ole Ignition Coil, would probably Over-Heat itself, and go Kaput/Fry itself, so, make sure that, All of the spark plug "Wires", are in Good Condition, and, are All Connected properly, so the Ignition Coil will be Happy, and will also, last a very long time, hopefully, that is, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Scott Lundy...……..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…...Just keep in mind, that, even though an automotive ignition coil checks out ok, ohms-wise, then sometimes, a not so good ignition coil, might start to act-up, when it gets up to operating temperature (can also get heated up, by the engine compartment heat as well), and, might be the cause of a misfire (ignition wise), or maybe, power loss while under load, and, maybe even, the engine might be harder to start, when it's already at operating (hot coolant) temperature, possibly...…….If something like that, ever happens me, then, I usually just replace that questionable ignition coil, with one of the other used ones, that I keep in storage, or, if need be, I just buy a new one (about 50 dollars, there-abouts)………...If the ignition coil swap, doesn't cure the problem, then, Ya know, that, Ya probably have, a good "spare" ignition coil, as a backup...!!!...lol...….and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

***** Greetings Romy Nacido....Thanks-ah-Bunch for watching, and for, Your comment as well.............................................."Woah-Nelly"...Slow that darn...too "Fast"...of a..."Horse"...that You're "Ridin'-On"..."Down"...cuz...I-be-Hearin'...that...that there..."New Sheriff"...in Town...is no longer..."Tackin'-Up"..."Wanted Posters"...but...the..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...are Keepin' a Close Eye, on, that there..."Dust Trail"...that, that there..."Too Fast"...of a "Horse"...that...Yur-Ridin'...keeps-on-Leavin'...and...Yew...keeps-on-Breakin'...that there..."Town's Speed Limit"...and...Yew-can-only-gets-away-with-that-there..."Speed-Limit-Breakin'-of-Yers"...fer...Only-So-Long...B-fer...that there..."New Sheriff and his Posse"...Pulls-Yew-and-Yur-too-Fast-Horse-on-Over...and...don't-chew-be-sayin'..."I Don't-be-Warnin'..."Yew"...wen..."Yew-Gets-that-thar"..."Speedin'-Ticket"...!!!.................................................(or, in other words)....................................................Please, don't "Rush" Things, cuz, like that ole Saying goes..."Haste Makes Waste"...as in, You might "Damage" some of Your Vehicle's "Parts"...and..."Even Worse"...when-ever, almost "Anyone" is in a..."Rush"...that will sometimes..."Result in"...a "Person getting Injured"...!!!...............................................................Even though, the particular "Ignition Coil, or Coils" (if that be the case), do happen to "Check Out Alright", in You Vehicle...and are..."Passing"...the, shall we say..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (2 Sets of Coil-Windings, that are contained Inside the Coil's Housing)..."Low and High Ohm's readings"...that fall with-in, the..."Specifications"..for Your Vehicle's..."Ignition Coil or Coils"...is..."Only One"..."Thing"...that will Indicate, weather or not, "Both" the..."Primary and Secondary Coils" (with-in the Ignition Coil, as a Whole Unit)..."Are Not"..."Shorted Out"...or, have a, shall we say..."Open" (circuit)...as in, a..."Break"...in..."Any"...of the "Primary or Secondary"..."Coil Windings"...!!!...................................................................There, can be times, that, quite..."Rarely"...that, an..."Ignition Coil"...can "Start to"..."Act-Up"...when "It", and the Engine..."Reach Operating Temperature"...and, one of those Problems, that comes to mind (mine, that is)...is, that, the..."Engine Loses Power"...and, might even..."Miss-Fire" (ignition related), when, the..."Engine is Under a Load" (and not, just Cruising Along), and, the Same Scenario, can also be confused with, a "Fuel System Problem" as well...just sayin'..............................................................Make sure, that the Engine is "Cold, and Not Running", when-ever, Doing any Work or Testing, anywhere in the Engine Compartment, and, Keep the Ignition Key, In Your Pocket, or Purse, if applicable...!!!.....................................................The "Wiring", that is..."Connected To"...the Ignition Coil/Coils...."Terminals"...will usually, have to be..."Disconnected"...while doing the...Ignition Coil's..."Primary and Secondary"..."Resistance Readings" (aka, Ohm's Readings), or, the..."Ohm's readings"..."might Not be very Good, or Accurate"...!!!....................................................Another, good ole Saying, and, is quite applicable, in this circumstance, as well, happens to be..."The Chain, is Only as Strong as, the Weakest Link"...!!!..................and, here's why, I like to use, that good ole Saying................................................."All" of the..."Ignition System's"...Wiring...the Ignition Switch...an Ignition Relay (if so equipped)...and any...Terminals, on any of the Ignition System's Component/Parts...which should also Include..."All", of the Connectors at the "Ends" of, any of the Ignition Related "Wires/Wiring"...have to be..."100%", the "Best", that they can be, in order to Provide, the "Best Path"...for any, and all, of the..."Electrical Voltage & Current"...that..."Travels"...Through-out...the Vehicle's..."Ignition System Circuitry"...!!!.............................................Check "All Connections"...for..."Moisture"..."Corrosion"..."Oxidation"..."Oil-like Coating"...etc., which will usually..."Not be so Good"...of a..."Path"...for, Both the...Ignition System's..."Low and High Voltage Electricity"...to...be "Trying" to "Travel Through"...!!!...................................................Remember now..."Slow Down"...or...that there..."Sheriff, and his Posse"...is gonna...be-Givin'...Yew and Yer Horse...that there..."Speedin' Ticket"...!!!...lol......................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Kosta Dinos………….Thanks for the nice comment, and thanks, for watching too...…….I've learned even more stuff about automotive ignition coils, since I made this one, and, maybe, sometime in the future, I might do, a, shall we say, updated video, perhaps, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

that's terrific, looking forward to watching it!

maineville prepper Greetings maineville prepper....Thanks kindly, for Your nice comment, and for what You had to say, about the older Lawn Tractor's Ignition system................................................I'm thinkin', that, pretty much, just about any of the Ignition Coils, that were found on "Gasoline"..."Internal Combustion Engines"...(Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, Steam Engines, need not apply...!!!...lol)...could, for the most part, be "Tested" for "Resistance/Ohms Readings", much like I have, in this Ignition Coil Testing, RU-vid Video of mine, as long as, the "Ignition Coil" in question has..."2-Primary-Terminals"...and a..."High Output Voltage"..."Tower"...much like, that of what You "See", in this Video of mine....................................................A Person, that might be Testing, any "Ignition Coil", that happens to be on Our Planet to date, should be aware of, the..."Many Differences"...in, what they are Expected to Do/Perform (as in, shall we say, the "Amount" of High Secondary Voltage Output, as an example), and also, the way in which "They" are "Constructed" (as in, Shape, Size, Oil or Epoxy, that is surrounding, all of those, many turns of, usually made of Copper, wire "Windings", that make up, both the Primary and Secondary "Coils", that are usually found, and are Contained with-in, that there Hypothetical/Imaginary Ignition Coil)...........................................................I'll now mention, a few things off the top of my head......................................................There were..."6-Volt"...and..."12-Volt"..."Ignition Coils" (as well as, "6-Volt" and "12-Volt"..."Batteries", that usually went along with them), and also, the "Vehicles"..."Ground"...System, should be "Checked" as well, as, some of the Older Vehicle's "Chassis/Frame", as far as I recall, had what was referred to as "Positive Ground" (+ or Plus Sign), as opposed to, the..."Negative Ground" (- or Minus Sign) System, that, for the most part, can be found on the "Newer" Vehicles, on just about any Street in North America these days.....................................................Usually, the "Oil Filled" Ignition Coils, were, well, kinda held back, from..."Outputting" as High of a "Secondary High Voltage", as compared to something like, the General Motors..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor Unit/System, that used an "Epoxy" type of Ignition Coil............................Why You ask...???.........................Well, there was usually, what is known, as a..."Ballast Resistor" (could be in the form of a Ceramic/Porcelain Block, if You will, or, in the case of the General Motors rendition, there-of, it could also be in the form of a "Special Resistance Wire" as well)............................These "Ballast Resistors", were usually found, in the wiring circuit, just before the Ignition Coil Itself, and, they usually "Reduced" the "Battery Voltage" quite a bit, so the Ignition Coil "Would-Not-Burn-Up", and in the case of a "Points Type" of Distributor, it would also, prevent the "Ignition/Breaker Points"...from..."Electrically Arcing" too much, which would usually result in "Ignition/Breaker Points", that, shall we say..."Wore-Out", way too fast...!!!............The "Oil Filled" type of Ignition Coil Systems, some being "Points Type", and also "Electronic Type" as well, that I've worked on, would usually have a Spark Plug "Gap", of about .035" (thirty-five thousandths of an inch)...where as, on some of the "HEI" Distributor Systems, I've worked on, I had to "Gap" the Spark Plugs at .080"...!!! (that be, Eighty Thousandths of an inch..."Hole-ee-Gwock-ah-Moe-lee"...!!!)..............................................Always "Check" the "Specifications", and the Factory Recommended Procedure/Method, that applies "Exactly" to the "Ignition Coil", and to that of the "Ignition System" that You, or Anyone happens to be working on, both for "Getting it Right, the First Time", as well as..."Doing it Safely as well"..............................................One last thing...............Even though an "Ignition Coil"..."Checks Out OK"...Resistance/Ohms-wise..with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, while being fairly Cool, so to speak, there can be times, and quite rarely as well, where an "Ignition Coil" can start "Acting-Up", as in..."Operating Intermittently"...or..."Not At All"...once that Ignition Coil, or, Ignition Coils, as the case may be...get Up-To..."Operating Temperature" (like when the Engine is all fully warmed up), so, please, always keep that in mind, just in case........................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Hugh Griffith..................Thanks for Your nice comment, and, Thanks for watching too.................Although an Ignition Coil, was able to Pass the Ohms (resistance) Test, with an Ohm/Multi-Meter, then, that, in itself, isn't a Guarantee, that, that particular Ignition Coil will be working 100%, when asked to do so................Sometimes, when an Ignition Coil (that tested good, for ohms/resistance, at, about room temperature, there-abouts), seems to be alright, might, while in operation, and reaches Operating Temperature (or maybe hotter?), then, it's possible (rarely, that is), that, this particular (faulty, when warm) Ignition Coil, might start to act, kinda, strange/weird, and might be the cause, of some Ignition system Misfiring, and maybe, stop working all-together, perhaps...................Just keep in mind, that, all it takes, is, one small, "Faulty/not so good", Wiring Connection (as in, oxidation, corrosion, and, I've even seen green stuff too...!!!...Yikes...!!!...lol), on the Primary/Low Voltage side, of an Ignition System/Circuit...............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...everything, from having a good Battery...a good Charging System...all Ignition System related Wiring, being in good condition, as well as, being moisture free, while also having, everything on the Secondary/High Voltage side, being in great shape as well, are pretty much, a must, to keep Your Engine running, as good as it should be, and..........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...nike reebok...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too.........There sure is a lot of science involved, when it comes to, something like an automotive type of ignition system, that's for sure, and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Zero Niner (Zero1niner) ....Greetings Zero Niner (Zero1niner)....You are Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.........................Although an Ignition Coil might Test Good Ohms-wise, there can be times, where, a questionable or Faulty Ignition Coil, might act-up, and not work so well, perhaps intermittently, or maybe not at all, once that particular Ignition Coil Warms up to Operating Temperature or maybe even Hotter............It's very important for a Vehicle's Ignition System, to have everything, as in, a Good Battery...a Good Charging System...and also, all Wiring and Connections, and any Switches or Component Parts, in that particular Ignition System, be in very Good Condition and Clean, and if need be, Adjusted to the Vehicle Manufacturer's Specifications, so the Vehicle will be able to have Good Performance, and, if You go easy on the Gas Pedal, some fairly decent Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age it will be............So then........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Rich R Greetings Rich R....Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching as well...................................................Here are few things, that I'm thinkin' about, at the moment..."Drum-Roll-Please"...lol............................................................Even though an Ignition Coil, such as the one, that You see in this video of mine..."Tests-Within-Specifications"..."Ohm-wise" (aka, Resistance readings)...then, as I see it, is just really a..."Preliminary Test"...that's Tellin' me, that, Both the..."Primary Coil Windings"...and the..."Secondary Coil Windings"...that are Contained with-in the Ignition Coil's Housing, are Not..."Shorted-Out"...or..."Open-Circuited"...and are Making a "Good Connection"...to the...Ignition Coil's..."Two Primary Connection Terminals"...and...to that of, the...Ignition Coil's...Secondary High Voltage..."Tower"...Terminal, as well, where the High Tension (high voltage) Lead/Wire, plugs into, and, having the Other End, of that very same Lead/Wire, Plugging into, the..."Distributor Cap's"...Center "Tower" connection terminal, as well...............................................................In the following Scenario, sometimes, and usually quite Rarely as well, once an Operating..."Faulty" (but still happens to Test-OK-Ohm's-wise)..."Ignition Coil"...Heats Up To Operating Temperature, it has been known, at times, to, shall we say..."Break-Down-while-Under-Load"...which, as I see it, would be, having the Ignition Coil's..."High Voltage Output"...Too..."Weak"...as in, having a Lower then wanted/needed "Secondary High Voltage"..."Jolt/Pulse"...that, in this particular circumstance, is just not..."High Enough"...to Make the..."Jump"...Between the...Spark Plug's..."Electrodes"...or, maybe, the Spark Plug/s, might...Fire/Spark..."Intermittently"...as in..."Miss-Fire/Miss-Firing"...just sayin'.................................................Any time, there happens to be a, shall we say..."GAP"...that is..."Too LARGE"...such as a Spark Plug, or Set of Spark Plugs..."GAP"...as well as, something like, where the..."GAP"...is found..."Between"...the...Distributor Cap's..."Inside Terminals"...and the..."Tip"...of the...Spinning..."Rotor"...inside said Distributor Cap (usually, the Gap Increases, due to Electrical Arcing/Erosion, over time)...then..."Those, Too LARGE, of an Un-Wanted/Un-Needed GAP or GAPs"...will, as I see it, be Placing, a "Much Higher Demand On"...and...Puts a "Really Strong/Un-Needed"..."STRAIN"...on that..poor ole..."Ignition Coil", and, could possibly Result in..."One Damaged, and perhaps, Not-Functioning-Any-More"..."Ignition Coil"...in the end...!!!.........................................................Just remember, to keep, All Wiring Connections..."Nice and Clean"...and also, Be Watchin' out for..."Any Excessive GAPs"...in the..."Ignition System's Circuitry"...so, All of Our..."Electron Friends"...can make "Their" Way..."Peacefully & Efficiently"...that way...not only will Our..."Electron Friends"...be quite "Happy", but..."We"...will be too...!!!...lol........................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle ....Greetings Chuzzlepuff Puffchuzzle....Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too...................There's even more, beyond, just Ohm/Resistance testing an Ignition Coil, as well...................There can be the odd time, where an Ignition Coil Checks-out Ok, Ohms-wise, but, once it/the Faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, it might not work so good....................Also, if the Wrong Ignition Coil gets installed, its Specifications, might not be Correct, for that particular Ignition System, and, might result, in having a Weak Spark, or maybe even having, some of the Ignition Components get Damaged......................If an Ignition Coil gets Charged-Up, with too many Amps of electricity, for too many Milli-Seconds (One Milli-Second = One Thousandths of a Second, time-wise), on its Primary side, during its, shall we say, Charge-Up Cycle, then, that in-itself, has the potential, to probably Fry the Ignition Coil Windings, and, a Burned-Out Ignition Coil, it will usually be....................Once a Person, kinda understands, how, a good ole "Points and Condenser" type of Distributor...Ignition System (up, till about 1974 there-abouts) operates/functions, oh, and, there was "No Computer" anywhere in sight, back in those days, then, as I've found (for myself, that is), is that, by having a basic understanding, as to, how the older Points & Condenser (distributor) Ignition System actually works, I find it, so much easier, to kinda comprehend, as to how, a Computer Controlled Ignition System operates, along with, what the Roles are, for all of the Sensors and Actuators, that go along with it (I hope...lol).....................So then, there You have it, well, for now that is, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings littlebignuts02....Thanks for your great comment....I will leave some more information on the "Other" Comment that you left about the same time, on this video, that might help you out, with what you indicated that you were looking for....Please, go to your "Other" comment on this video, to have a look-see at what I'm about to post "Over There"...

Greetings MrBoogty....You are welcome....Thanks for watching...and...Thanks for Your very Appreciated comment, my Friend....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings gpateluk73....Thanks for your comment, my Friend....With the Ohm's Readings that you posted in your comment, they appear to be in the Ballpark alright, as compared to what I have seen in the past, that is....If you really want some "Accuracy", as in, if you are really Within "Specifications" for Your Ignition Coil, maybe, try and see if you can find the Specifications for Your Ignition Coil, that way, you will "Know for Sure", that the Ohm Readings, actually Fall "Within Specifications" for that Ignition Coil of Yours....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Bernardo Romero ....Greetings Bernardo Romero....Thanks for watching, and Thanks, for Your nice comment as well, and...........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

+Black Box Greetings Black Box....Thanks for watching..............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I do hear Ya, and, oh, I guess, that it was last year, when I made a some-what "Shorter Version", of this particular Video, of Ohms-Testing, this very same, Oil-Filled type of Ignition Coil, that You saw, in this RU-vid Video of mine, that You commented on.........If You care to, just, head on over, to my RU-vid Channel...RockysRoadshow...to have a look-see at it, and, there are less than, 100 Videos on my YT Channel so far...enjoy........................Even though an Ignition Coil, and, all of, what makes up the entire Ignition System/Circuit, might check out ok, for Ohms, Voltage, (electrical) Ground, etc., well, that's one thing, but, there might be, rare times, where an Ignition Coil, starts to Act-Up, and, not work so good, and maybe, to the point of, not working at all, when, that not-so-good/faulty Ignition Coil, gets up-to Operating Temperature, or, maybe even hotter perhaps, and, probably, because of, something like, Thermal Cycling, as in, having both, the Primary and Secondary Coils of Wire (that are inside the ignition coil), being quite cool or cold (when not working), then, (when working), getting nice and warm, or hot, when up-to operating temperature, thus, the Expansion and Contraction, of the Primary & Secondary Coils, having to endure, all of this adverse, shall we say, Operating Environment, perhaps........................While the amount of Voltage, being Fed, to the Ignition Coil, is to be considered (ballast resistor perhaps?), it's also very Important, not to Feed a given Ignition Coil, too many Amps/Amperes, as well as, for too long a time (in milli-seconds/thousandths of a second, time-wise, that is), that was-not able to handle it, or maybe, Poof, goes that probably Over-Heated Ignition Coil, and it's now Tow-Truck time...Yikes...!!!.......................The High Voltage Output, of an Ignition Coil, can vary, due to the amount of Voltage, that goes into the Primary Coil's Terminal/s, as in, something like, having the Charging System going Kaput (aka, not working any more), which will usually result in, having the Battery's Voltage Drop, from, oh, about 14.5 Volts (when the charging system is working), down-to, about, 12.5 Volts or less (ball park figures), and, when-ever, the Ignition Coil's, Primary (terminal/s) Voltage Drops, so does the High Voltage Output of the Ignition Coil (usually measured in Thousands of Volts)...!!!...and, probably, a weaker Spark, at the Spark Plugs, it will be, and, I hope not, and, till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...Mark h............Thanks for the nice comment, and Thanks, for watching too...........No need to worry about, using, the forgive word, at all, cuz, I'm only too happy, to share with others, what I might know...???...about certain things, and, when it comes right down to it, then, Cars and Trucks, have been, one of my top hobbies, for quite some time now...............The testing of, both, the Primary, and Secondary windings (coils of wire), contained with-in, most, of the common ignition coils, is just telling us, that, both coils of wire (windings), are pretty much, Ok, as long as those Ohms (resistance) readings, are with-in the Manufacturer's "Specifications", for that "Exact" ignition coil, but, a Person, should also keep in mind, that, this "Test", is usually only done, when the ignition coil, is in its "Cool State", temperature-wise, that is...............Although, an ignition coil, might Ohms Test "Ok", while Cool, then, there can be times, where a "Faulty" ignition coil, might, shall we say, will "Start to Act Up" (aka, malfunction), when it gets Warmer/up to operating temperature, and, sometimes, it can result in, an Ignition (system) related "Misfire" (that be, where the compressed, Air/Fuel Mixture, that's inside of, one or more, of the engine's cylinders, Does-Not Burn properly, if at all, and, is sometimes, caused by, one or more spark plugs, that never went "Spark", at that particular time), and sometimes, it might be a Faulty ignition coil, or maybe, it could be something else, as in, ignition system related (cap, rotor, spark plugs, or spark plug wires, if applicable, that is), or perhaps, it might be fuel system related, possibly (gotta remember now, Both, the Ignition system, and, the Fuel system, have to be Working, really good, as a "Team", so to speak, or, if not, then, the Engine, will probably, start to Run, not so good, or might, not even start)............An ignition coil's (2) windings (or, coils of wire), will usually Contract/shrink (when cool), and will probably Expand, some-what (while in operation), and, from what I recall, the term for that, might be called, Thermal-Cycling...............I'm thinkin,' that, all of that, Expanding and Contracting, of the ignition coil's wire/windings, will probably shorten the life-span, of an ignition coil, some-what, quite possibly, but, there are many other things, that can also, shorten the working life of an ignition coil as well..............If something like, one or more spark plug Wires, get broken, or disconnected, then, the ignition coil, will usually, just try to, increase its Power Output, to..."Infinity-and-Beyond"...as in, a Much Higher than wanted, Secondary High Voltage, from the ignition coil, and, will usually Rise-Up, way too High, and put such a Strain, on that poor ole ignition coil, that, it will probably get Over-Stressed, and will probably, Destroy itself...Yikes...!!!.................Spark Plug "Gaps", that are Too BIG, and/or, the Higher, the engine's Cylinder Pressure gets (a high performance engine, for example), will also, make it so, that, the ignition coil has to Work, all that Much Harder as well...............It's also, a good idea, to, Check/Ohms-measure, the Resistance Values, of, things like, Spark Plugs, as well as, all of the spark plug Wires (if applicable, that is), cuz, Too Much Resistance, in the Secondary/High Voltage side, of the ignition system, will probably, make, our poor ole ignition coil, Work, way Harder, than it usually, has to be doing...................The are a few, not too expensive (20 Dollars maybe?)..."Spark Testers"...that can be used, to Test an ignition coil's, High Voltage Output (as in, Stress Testing, an ignition coil)...............Some of the Spark Testers have a Fixed "Gap", between the 2 Electrodes, and, I've also seen, an "Adjustable", type of Spark Tester as well...............Just make sure, that, the "Gap", that's between the 2 Electrodes, on the Spark Tester, is, Set for, the "Correct" Gap, that's Needed/Specified, for the "Exact", ignition coil, that's about to be Tested...!!!...(or "it" might, get Over-Stressed, and possibly Damaged)..............The ignition coil, has to work much harder, as in, much Higher Voltage is needed, to, initiate/create a Spark, between the spark plug's Electrodes, while being inside of, an engine's Cylinder, that's, under a Lot of "Pressure", as compared to, just having a spark plug, go Spark, while, out in the Open air/atmosphere, and that's why, You'll probably be seeing, quite a "BIG Gap", in a "Spark Tester", as compared to, that, rather "small" Gap, that You'll usually be seeing, Between the spark plug's Electrodes...............When-ever, replacing an ignition coil, make sure, that, the Ohms/Resistance, for both, the Primary/Low Ohms, and, the Secondary/High Ohms, are With-in, the "Exact Specifications" (Manufacturer's or other-wise), and are, the Same as, the Original ignition coil, cuz, if not, well, might end up being, a Weak spark, at the spark plugs, or maybe, an ignition coil, that Over-Heats, and Destroys itself, and I hope not........and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Greetings...TigerIronClock..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching..........If, and when-ever, installing a new ignition coil, make sure that, it is the "Exact/Correct" ignition coil, for that "Exact" ignition system circuit, or, Ya might end up having, a not so impressive spark, between the spark plug's electrodes (misfire?), or maybe, an ignition coil that becomes Over-Heated and quits workin' all-together, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Absolutely, RockysRoadshow! Thank you for posting this very important bit of info i needed to test my ignition coil . You've got a way with words friend. I was trying to get to the point as well, what with my short attention span and all. Still appreciated. I guess i gotta check the box or website for MSD coil specs. Ive got a blaster 2 hooked up to MSD MSD Digital E-Curve Pro Billet Distributors 8394. 65 Mustang . No points or condenser, as the stock distributor was removed.

Greetings Daniel Petter....You are welcome, and, thanks for watching, this, shall I say, "Long-Winded" (version) Video, of this particular type of (oil filled) Ignition Coil....It's Amazing, just how Fast..."Time Flies"...once the Video Camera's "Record" Button, gets pressed!....When I make most of these RU-vid Videos, my Mind kinda goes into, what I like to call..."Auto-Pilot"...as in, I guess that, for the most part, once the "Record" Button gets Pressed, away I go, Rambling on, about what it is, that I experienced and remembered, about the "Item", that happens to be in each and every Video, that Folks "See and Hear" me, doing what I can, to explain what I just might know (or, "Think" I know...lol), about the Item/Subject at hand, and, before I know it, "Time" really does "Fly", making for a much Longer Video, that I thought it would be...!!! It was brought to my attention (more then "Once"...Yikes!), that, I..."Took Way Too Long" (aka, Time), in some of the Videos, that I have made, so far. So, I thought to myself...Self, maybe You (actually "I"), should perhaps Make (actually "Re-Do"), a few of the (Way Too) Long Videos, that have received a pretty good deal of attention, from the Viewing Public, that way, they will have a "Choice", of Watching, either the "Long" (Long-Winded...lol) "Version", or the "Short" Version (well, only a very few, have been "Re-Done", and "Shortened-Up" so far). If You care to, You can actually See, the (very few), and "Short Version's", of, not only "This" Ignition Coil Testing Video, but, maybe (I think?), 2 "Other"..."Short Version" Videos as well, on my RU-vid Channel...RockysRoadshow...enjoy. Thanks again for Watching... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.