This video cleared up things that aren't covered in other videos/ online posts like having a clean contact point with the multimeter probes. Well done; thanks.
Thank you very much for the informed video. My car cut out a few days ago. I checked for a spark (Lumenition controlled), there wasn't any. Put an Accu-Spark on one plug and then it started sparking again and I got it home. So I'm glad you mentioned that oil can leak out as I wouldn't have considered that. So I'm thinking of renewing the coil. Thanks so much.
Thank you Rocky. This has been informative and helpful, regardless of complaints from others about the length of the video. Thank you for the detailed explanation. Thank you sir.
Greetings...DIGITAL CANADA PRODUCTIONS............You're welcome, and, I appreciate your nice comment as well...and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Ivan Fernandez...…..You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...……..Try to keep your vehicle's ignition system well maintained, that way, you'll probably be able to get better gas mileage/kilometer-age, out of very tank-full of gasoline, as well as, keeping any problems to a minimum, hopefully, that is, and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Mike Kahotea..........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Brian Walker...……You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…..It's good to know, that, some of my RU-vid videos, are able, to help some folks out (kinda, has me thinkin', that, I might be on the right track, somewhat...maybe...???)……….Always make sure, that, you use the correctly "specified" ignition coil, for the "exact" engine and vehicle, otherwise, Ya might end up with a weak spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, or maybe, an ignition coil, that gets over-heated, and maybe, up to the point, where, the ignition coil gets damaged so much, that, it won't work at all, anymore...……..All ignition system components (aka, parts and pieces), should be, in very good condition/almost like new, and, if any adjustments/settings, at suggested intervals, are required, then, keep them up to date...…….Like me, if you can understand, how, the good ole points and condenser distributors operate, then, it makes it, so much easier, to understand, the much newer ignition systems, that followed "it"...……..Always keep in mind, that, all it takes, for an ignition system to act-up, or, not work properly, can at times, just be, a "bad" electrical connection, of, one kind or another, and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Can Aygen..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...........I have never heard, of a 1975 Anadol A2 before, and, when I saw some information about it, I did find it, quite interesting...........The picture and information, about your Anadol A2, was showing, that it might be a four door car, and that, the car's body, might be made out of "fiberglass"...(in the USA/United States of America, most of the Chevrolet, high performance, Corvette cars, also, have a body made out of "Fiberglass"), while most other car bodies, are usually made out of "steel", sheet metal..........As long as you can find the parts, that you need, for your 1975 Anadol A2, then, it should last a very long time, I hope.....and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great test i would like to add checking all 3 term. to ground as well. You could be arching out and still show good resistance. dam this is 9 years old lol
Greetings...Jesse Hereford...……You're welcome, and, thanks for the nice comment...…..I'm not so sure, that it's awesome at all, more like, I studied it a bit, and learned a basic amount of information..…….Always use the specified ignition related parts, for the vehicle in question, so as to, avoid causing any unwanted problems, and, unneeded expense too...……Sometimes, an ignition system that's acting up, can simply be caused by, a bad/faulty wiring connection, so, keep that in mind, just in case, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Roadside Camper.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........If ever replacing an ignition coil, then, always try to get the vehicle manufacturer's "specified" coil, for that exact engine, so as, to avoid any unwanted problems.........Problems might arise, when a mismatched coil, and/or, any ignition part or component, that is not within the electrical tolerances, for that particular electrical circuit.........Some ignition related parts, might look identical, but might not have the correct amount of (electrical) resistance, etc. ..........With the much newer engines, there are some of them, where the vehicle's on-board computer is connected directly, to each of, one of the many ignition coils, that are on an engine (there might be, one ignition coil, for each of the engine's cylinders), and it is this type of coil, that has to be the correct one, or, expensive, it might become, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Tony Hillyard...……You're welcome...…..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too……...Always, try to find out, the low and high ohms, ignition coil specifications, for a given vehicle and engine combination, as, most of the parts places, will probably, be going by, a part number only, most times, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow Thank you for taking the trouble of replying. Sadly, at most parts suppliers their staff don't know one end of what they are selling from another. They are very rarely knowledgeable about their products. They can only quote parts numbers. I think that is why we now all reply on RU-vid.com for information.
Greetings...Tony Hillyard...…...You're welcome...…..Well, I learned early on, about, an ignition coil's specifications, and also about, the parts person, you, and I, only being able (at times), at having, just the ignition coil's part number, as a reference point, so to speak...……..A long time ago, I recall seeing, in a factory, mid 1970's, Dodge chassis service manual, that had, two different, ignition coil brands/manufacturers, ignition coils, that had slightly different ohms/resistance specifications, for the very same V-8 engine...…….I also learned, some time ago, about the cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, that could have, either, a (ball-park figure) of, 1.5 ohms, or 3 ohms...on the low ohms/primary side...why you ask...???...well...a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, would usually, also have a "ballast resistor" along with it, in the ignition circuit...where-as...a 3 ohm coil, wouldn't have a ballast resistor at all...…….The reason for the 1.5 ohm coil, being, shall we say, teamed-up with, the ballast resistor, was kinda two-fold, so to speak...…...When the engine was being started-up, then, the ballast resistor was "by-passed" (with a separate ignition circuit wire), which then allowed, full (available) battery voltage, to go, straight to the 1.5 ohm ignition coil (during starter motor operation, the battery's voltage, might drop down to, about 9 volts, there-abouts, due to the quite high amperage draw...{as high as, 200 amperes, maybe...???}, that, the electric starter motor, was drawing, from the vehicle's battery)...then, once the engine was running on its own, then, the ignition key, would go, from the "start" position, into the "run" position, when Ya let go of the ignition key, and, then, by doing so, the other (electrical) ignition circuit, with the "ballast resistor" in it, was activated...…….Now, that the engine is running on its own, the charging system, is charging the battery up-to, perhaps, 14.5 volts possibly, and, without having the ballast resistor there, then, the 1.5 ohm ignition coil, would probably overheat, and fry itself, because of, too many Amps (Amperes) of electrical current, getting into it...!!!...……..The 3 ohm coil's, ignition circuit, (without having/needing a ballast resistor at all), probably wouldn't have, as much high voltage available, during engine cranking, which would probably make for, a weak spark, at the spark plugs, I be thinkin'...…….Perhaps, go to...Rockauto.com...and look up an ignition coil or two, and, there should be, a few different manufacturer's ignition coils, that will show their ohms/resistance specifications, once you select, one of the ignition coils, that they have to offer...…….Good luck, and.....till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...MrJazzohjazz………..You're welcome, and, thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too, and...…..till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...juleswells59........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........It's good to know, that, this video of mine, was able to help you out.........UK you say...brings to mind (mine, that is), that, some of the older vehicle's ignition systems, where you are, would have probably had, basically, two different, low ohms specifications, for two different ignition coils, that look like the one in this video of mine.........If it had about 1.5 ohms on the primary, low ohms side, then, there would probably be, a "ballast resistor", that was used along with it..........If it had about 3 ohms, on the primary, low ohms side, then, usually, "no" ballast resistor was to be used with this one...!!!.........So then, always check, what the "exact" ignition coil is, to be installed, that is specified, for that particular vehicle and engine combination, so, things don't get damaged, and that, no money gets wasted needlessly, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...TECH MAN...……..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too...……..Gotta remember now...it is said...that each person, is to be considered, as being an "individual", and, that's probably why, some people, are almost as quiet as a mouse, while others, probably won't be needing a megaphone (loudspeaker), to be heard at all...!!!...lol........So then, I be thinkin', that, the vast majority of us, might be stuck somewhere, between, those two extremes, that I just eluded to, don't-cha-think...???...lol...but, then again, get...good-n-drunk, then, most of those happy-go-ers, won't be needing a megaphone either, as in, the talking/conversations, tend to get quite loud, once the booze-hits-the-brain...!!!...lol...……..Thanks again, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+Darron Mecak ....Greetings Darron Mecak....Thanks for watching.............It's good to hear, that, You solved, Your "Hot", Ignition Coil problem....well done............Hmmmm...just thinkin'...Ignition Coils, are kinda like People, in some ways, as in, both, "Act", kinda "Cool"...when They're kept "Cool Enough"...!!!...lol...................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...Over-Heated Ignition Coils, are something, to be avoiding alright...................Something, like an old school, Factory/Stock V-8 Engine, already, generates enough heat, in the engine compartment, when having, the (usually) factory/stock, Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds, bolted to the Cylinder Heads......................Now then, just add in a pair of Long Tube, Exhaust Headers, and now, the engine Compartment becomes an "Oven", and even worse, slap on a Turbo-Charger or Two, as well, and also add-in, a very Hot Summer Day, and maybe, We now have a Pizza Oven...???...lol....................For the Oil Filled Ignition Coils, I prefer to have the Terminals pointing Upwards, as I had one of them, "Spring-an-Oil-Leak", when it was Mounted "Horizontally".....................Always make sure, when-ever Installing a Replacement, or Up-Graded Ignition Coil, to Check its "Specifications", to see if they are "Correct", for that "Exact" Ignition System/Circuit, to avoid having, either a Weak Spark, at the spark plugs, or maybe, one or more Components in that Ignition System, become "Fried"...!!!...and I hope not.....................If there happens to be a "Ballast Resistor" (Ceramic Block, or Resistance Wire type), that "might" be found, in the Ignition Circuit, along with an Oil Filled type of Ignition Coil, then, the Ohms/Resistance, of "Both", the Ignition Coil, "and" the Ballast Resistor, have to be...With-in..."Specifications"...or maybe...Oh-Oh...it just might be...(and, again I say)...I hope not...and..........till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone....Welcome back, my Friend, and, Thanks, for watching, these Videos, that I have on my RU-vid Channel, so far.........................................................Yes, indeed, there just happens to be, a "Soft-Cover"..."Book"...that, I happen to have, and, on the Cover of this particular Book, it reads..."Petersen's...Basic Auto Repair Manual"...and..."It" was published around..."1977"...and has almost..."400-Pages"...!!!......................................................"It" most certainly, is very well Written, and, Written, in such a way, that it happens to be quite Entertaining, as "It" contains, quite a bit of Story-Telling, as in, things like, how some of the Government's Legislation, has Imposed on the Auto-Makers, things like, oh, Safety Device/s...Implementation, as well as, the Automobile-Tail-Pipe-Emission-Levels, and how the Auto-Makers, came up with the required, shall we say..."Systems & Sub-Systems", that the Auto-Makers, had to come up with (aka, Invent, Design, etc.), in order to...Comply with, the Government's Emission Level/s Law, at that particular point in time..............................................This "Book", is just slightly smaller, then a sheet of computer...printer paper (aka, 8 & 1/2" by 11"...[Inches]), that's Written in such a way, that, the Information, and Pictures, contained with-in this Book, as I see it, are..."Very Easy" to Grasp, and Understand, and, like I said, just a bit ago...it's also very..."Entertaining"...which, as I see it...is almost..."Guaranteed"...to keep a Person..."Interested"...and..."Inspired"...as, "Who-ever", or if it happened to be a "Team" of "Writers"..."Really-Nailed-It" (aka, "Superbly Done, and Accomplished...!!!)................................................I got a hold of this Book, early on, when I was kinda getting Interested in "Automotive Repair and Maintenance", as a..."Hobby"...and, one of the..."Side-Benefits"...to this, so called, Hobby of mine, is the fact, that, by..."DIY" (in reality, that's not correct, cuz, it's really "DIM"..."Do It Myself"...!!!...lol), and No, not because I have this insatiable urge, to be lookin' like, a, shall we say...Part Time..."Grease Monkey"...but rather, it's really about..."All-of-that-MONEY-that-I-will-be-Saving"...by getting..."All-Mucked-Up"...and then some...!!!...lol......................................................This particular Book, in my opinion, is so good, that, "It" has Information & Pictures, that, not only, will the..."Beginner/Novice"...Learn and Progress from, but, as I see it...would be Very Beneficial, for the, so called..."Experts & Pro's"...as well...!!!.....................................................You had mentioned, about...obtaining a Good Book, that I might know of, that pertains to..."All Service Issues with Vehicles"...in the comment that You posted, correct...???.................................................Well now, although the "Book" that I was just ramblin' on about, wouldn't cover, much in the way of the More "Modern Vehicles", that, have..."Computers...Fuel Injection...Computer/Electronically Controlled Automatic Transmissions...Anti-Lock Braking Systems...etc."...but, would, at the very least, have You Understanding, in very little time, once You read the applicable Chapter, on the Part of the Vehicle, that, You are Working-on, at that particular time, would, as I see it, have You possessing a pretty good Mind-Set (aka, Visually, that is), of, what may be Involved, when trying to undertake, the Required..."Work/Parts/Removal/Installation/Adjustment/etc."...but, First and foremost..."SAFETY"..."IS"...the Priority, and..."At the TOP of the List"...!!! (Please, Never forget that!).....................................................I really can't see, there..."Only"...being..."One Book"...that will..."Cover Everything"...as, there are just..."Way Too Many Different Vehicle Manufacturers/Systems/Subsystems, and then some"...on our Planet to date, as well as, the Vehicle's that are..."Still on the Drawin' Board"...as well...!!!....................................................Perhaps, do what I do, from time to time, and that is to, pay a visit to some of the..."Thrift Stores"...and have a gander (aka, look around eh...lol), at all of the Goodies, but, hey, wait a minute now, we are getting Distracted, by all of that, good ole "Eye-Candy", and now, we must get back to lookin' for, what we came here to find in the first place, and that was, of course..."A-Packed-Full-of-Information-&-Pictures-Up-to-the-Level-and-Ability-of-Our-Own-Capabilities-Automotive-BOOK"...!!!...lol......................................................Hey, I'm no Expert, and, just about Everybody out there, Workin' on Cars, Trucks, Engines, and related Equipment, have Their own Ability Level, as far as, "Automotive"...Knowledge...Experience...Tools...Equipment...and I'll end this sentence with, perhaps, having in Their possession, some..."Tricks-of-the-Trade"...........................................................As with just about any subject-matter, that happens to be in question, it all boils down to, and in this case, just..."Where-Ur-At"...as it applies to...Your Knowledge, Ability, the Tools and Equipment, that are available to You, just to mention a few things, when it comes down to, just how much..."Automotive Repair and Maintenance"...that, You will..."Actually"...be able to do (aka, Perform, or, just be sayin')..."Gitin'-Er-Done"...!!!...lol...............................................You'll have to "Evaluate" Yourself, as Only "You", really know, just how much knowledge and experience, that You have, at this point in time, as far as the "Automotive-Subject" is concerned, and that my Friend, will, as I see it...be the Determining Factor, as it applies to, just "How Technical"...and..."How Involved"...the..."Books"...happen to be, that You just might be Reading and Studying one day...........................................................In closing, it appears that there is, a somewhat..."Limit-Less"...Amount of Information...that is readily Available on the Good Ole "Internet"...and...It's just a matter of "FINDING IT" (sometimes, almost as difficult as)..."Winning the Lottery"...!!!..............................................Thanks again, for Your Great comment!.......................................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Paul Coover...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...........When-ever ohms (resistance) measuring an ignition coil, try to find, the low and high...Ohms Specifications...for the "exact" ignition coil, that you are testing, other-wise, you'll probably just be guessing, as I see it, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Good video and knowledge. I am not great with electrics. I got the drift though. I am installing a Compu Fire Electronic ignition in my 009 Distributer on my 71 Beetle, it is a module that replaces the old points contacts in the Distributor. I needed to see how much resistance my coil has. Some are saying a coil with less than 3 Ohms resistance can burn out the electronic module. These are peoples online comments on a similar brand module. I also changed to a new alternator with internal regulator as well. My old grey coil has 3.2 Ohms resistance and 9.09 Ohms on the 20k setting I have another red Bosch GT40R I believe is a resistor coil it has 1.8 Ohms Resistance and 15.21 Ohms on the 20k setting. Any thoughts on this will be great, thanks Rocky.
Rocky... so if reading is different from the positive node to the centre and from the negative node to the centre - then the coil is dead? What I get from the positive to the centre is about 10K ohms. But from the negative to the centre I get zero. However from the negative to the positive I get similar readings as yours. Please advise when you have the time whether this is caput / dead. Thanks! .
Greetings...DIGITAL CANADA PRODUCTIONS...........You're welcome, and thanks for watching too...........Well, any of the used/good/useable, cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, that I have ohms/resistance tested, have always had, the "same" ohms readout, when-ever I connected, one of the ohm-meter's test leads (usually), down-into, the ignition coil's center/tower terminal, and the other, ohm-meter's test-lead, to either, the plus/positive, "or", the negative/minus (usually) screw-threaded terminals............When You ohms-tested, from the positive/plus/+, and, negative/minus/-...terminals, then, that, in itself, is usually, ohms/resistance testing, the Primary coil (of wire, that's contained with-in the ignition coil), which might be, oh, 1.5 ohms there-abouts, if a ballast resistor is in the ignition circuit, or maybe, 3 ohms there-abouts, if there isn't a ballast resistor being used, as I recall.............When-ever ohms-testing the Secondary coil (of wire, that's also, contained with-in the ignition coil), as in, from, the center tower terminal, to either, the + or - terminal, then, I've always got the same ohms reading, showing on my Multi-meter............You might try reversing your ohm-meter's test leads, while ohms testing, to see if there's any difference at all, but, I kinda doubt, that, there will be any, b-cuz, just about any of these, shall we say, simple ohms (resistance) tests, that we are doing here, as in, just ohms/resistance measuring, a length of insulated wire, that's wound into a coil (shape), usually, won't require a specific polarity (+ red...or - black), where-as, something, like an electrolytic capacitor, can act like a fire-cracker (as in)..."Bang"...!!!...if it's fed the "wrong" polarity/voltage, I be thinkin'...(4th of July...anyone...???...oh, and..."Today"..."is"...the..."4th of July"...!!!...how about that...lol).............When ohms measuring the Secondary/high ohms (coil), then, I can't recall, whether, it's the + or - terminal, that will add in, the Primary/low ohms (coil), to the high ohms measurement, where as, the other (be it the - or the +), that won't be adding any Extra ohms/resistance, to that high ohms measurement at all............This, primary coil's ohms value, of, about, 1.5 or 3 ohms, usually doesn't even show up, b-cuz, the Ohm/multi-meter, is usually set, on, such a High/Ohms Scale (20-k/20,000 ohms...???) to begin with, which, probably, won't be able to detect, such a small amount of resistance (aka, ohms) at all, well, as I see it, that is............So, if you can't get, about, the same high ohms readout, of that 10-k (10,000) ohms, and keep getting, what appears to be, an Open Circuit (as in, bad connection, or, broken wire...internally), then, there's gotta be somthin' wrong, or maybe, your ignition coil is of a Special type maybe...???............Maybe, have a look, at some pictures on the internet, that show the "internals" of the type of ignition coil that you have there, so, you can see what's hiding inside one of these things........If you care to, you can let me know, what type of ignition coil that you have there, that way, I'll have something, a little more specific to go on...thanks...and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello Thank you for your detailed accounting how to proceed. A couple of questions, if you take the red cord and put it on the minus of the ignition coil and the black on the plus on the ignition coil, thus the contrary, it can damage the ignition coil?
+Micke T ....Greetings Micke T....You're Welcome, and, Thanks for watching.............Well, I sure Don't Advise Anyone, to hook-up/connect, any Wiring the Wrong Way, that's for sure, and why take that chance, unless it was done as an Experiment, and on purpose as well...???.....................Perhaps, find-out the Price of a New Ignition Coil, and/or, any other Ignition Components, that might get Damaged as well, as that, in itself, can be a pretty darn good Deterrent...!!!...lol...................Now then, Why would the Ignition Coil Manufacturer, go to all of the trouble, to put the...+...and the...-...(Plus/Positive, and the Minus/Negative)..."Indicators"...on the Ignition Coil to begin with (must be a reason for it, don't-cha think...???)..................Maybe, just a Weak Spark might happen...or...Ignition Coil..."Destruction"...it just might be...???...Yikes...!!!.................Also, make sure, that, "All" of the Ignition System's, Parts and Pieces, have the Correct "Specifications", for that "Exact" Ignition System, or, maybe a Weak Spark, or No Spark, or maybe, even some Ignition Components might get Damaged...!!!...and I hope not, and...........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I'm trying to get a 61 Thunderbird that hasn't been started in many years going and not getting any Spark and after doing your test I'm getting readings 1.5 for the first test and 8.25 for the second test so I guess it's okay right? Thanks for any advice
Hi. You mentioned at clip 7:15 that it can cook to high temperature. What is an acceptable temperature on these coils? My Coil heats up with key ON only at 117 degrees Farenheit, is that normal? Thanks in advance
This is good information if you have an old car. However, I would think that polarity markings on the coil would have to be reversed on a positive ground system ie. the ground whether positive or negative should always be connected to the minus side of the coil. The minus side of the coil should be connected to the distributor, and the positive side of the coil connected to the "hot" lead from the ignition switch. Am I correct about this?
Greetings...wyatt davis………..Thanks for watching...…...Well, I've never had, a car (or truck), that was old enough, to have a positive (polarity), ground system in it...…….Your best bet, for finding out, just how, to wire a "positive ground" ignition system, would be, to try and find, an electrical "schematic" (aka, drawing) for, the "exact" vehicle, that you want to know about...…….Also, maybe check out the H.A.M.B. online website, as, there are quite a few, older guys, on that website's "forum", where you'll be able to ask them, about that, good ole, automotive, positive ground, electrical system...…….Then, there were also, 6 volt systems, and 12 volt systems too, both of which, will probably have, quite a bit of history, behind them as well...…...Just thinkin', if the battery was hooked up back-wards, (polarity-wise), then, what might get "fried" (damaged)…???...and...would the electrical motors (as in...starter motor...defrost/heater fan motor...windshield-wiper motor)...turn "back-wards/in the opposite direction"...???...because, even those small DC (Direct Current) toy motors, will spin, in the opposite direction, as in, clock-wise...or...counter-clockwise...depending on, which terminal (on that little electric motor), that Ya hooked up, the + (positive) wire, and the - (negative) wire to...…...Hmmm...lem-me-see-now...perhaps, an engine that tries to start "backwards"...???...or maybe, a heater/defrost vent, that will draw air, "out of", the vehicle's passenger compartment, and blow that (maybe) heated air, to the "outside" of the vehicle, and leave Ya, feeling, as cold as an ice cube, on a cold winter's day...maybe...lol...and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Jackle61..........Thanks for watching..........For the older style of car/truck battery, that had the two top terminal/posts, the old school stuff to put on them, was usually petroleum jelly/vasoline, to help keep all of that nasty corrosion (growths...lol), from getting too big, and causing some problems, as in, a No Start for example............I never had a problem with the side terminal battery, like the type that General Motors uses, as an example, so, No goop needed at all.......and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
When I was young my dad always used vasoline or just good old bearing grease on the terminals. Then my brother and I would put dirt on it so if and when it melted it didn't get all over the place. As for the side terminals, living in the rust belt where we put salt on everything, beef, pork, potatoes, Roads, I still seal any electrical connection I can get to. Greetings from Wisconsin.
Hey I’m having a no start issue as well on my 1978 924, I’ve replaced the faulty ignition coil (resistance measurements were off spec) however still no start, but I’ve noticed there’s 2 ballast resistors before the coil wich take the voltage down, I’ve measured them and the 1st one takes the voltage down from 12v to 8v and the 2nd one takes it down from that 8v to like 5.4V. This seems strange to me, as people say the coil needs 12v, do you think I should remove those resistors?
Greetings...TriCityPhoto........Thanks for watching........For the no start problem, then, make sure that, you are getting (usually), battery voltage/about 12 volts, when the ignition switch is in the "run" position, with..."engine Not running"...at the positive (+ sign) connection, on the ignition coil/s (not sure, if both of your vehicle's ignition coils, are always operating together, at the same time, so, be sure to check that out) .........Did you check for an actual "spark", at the spark plug, or maybe, use a spark tester at all...???........As for those ballast resistors, then, here's what usually goes on.........When you are cranking the engine over, to start it, the ballast resistors, are usually by-passed, because, the battery voltage, will usually drop down, from, oh, let's say, about 12.6 volts, down to, maybe about 9 or 10 volts, because of, the high amperage draw, from the electric starter motor........The ignition coil/s, have to put out a good-n-strong spark, when the battery voltage drops down, during engine cranking, so, the cold air/fuel mixture will burn properly.........Now, if we didn't have those ballast resistors in the ignition circuit, while the engine, was now running (not cranking any more), then, the ignition coil/s, would probably over-heat, and destroy themselves...!!!........So, once the engine is running, the key, in the ignition switch, has gone, from the start position (engine cranking, lower voltage, ballast resistor/s by-passed), then, into the run position (ballast resistors, are now in this "run", electrical circuit), to lower, the higher voltage, to protect the ignition coil/s, due to alternator, charging the battery, up to, about 13.5 volts, to about 14.5 volts, as an example, with the engine, now running on its own........Basically, the ignition coil, has to put out enough high voltage, during engine cranking, while the battery voltage is quite low.........Then, no more cranking is needed/engine running on its own, and much higher voltage now, that, has to be lowered, to keep the ignition coil from getting too hot/over-heating, and destroying itself........So then, that's why the ballast resistor is used, for this type of ignition system, which was usually found, on the older engines, that had carburetors on them...and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Scott Fox.........Thanks for watching.........Well, from my experience, with the good ole, "points and condenser" ignition systems, that were around before, the computerized/fuel injected engines started showing up, or before, about 1985 there-abouts, then, the "negative" or - (minus sign), side, of an older, oil filled, cylindrically shaped ignition coil, actually got (electrically) "grounded", when-ever the ignition "points" closed together (ignition "points", kinda work, like a simple switch, that just opens and closes), which basically, just completes the electrical circuit (when-ever, the points are closed)...........The "positive", or + (plus sign) side, of the same, older type of ignition coil, would receive the "positive" voltage, when-ever the ignition switch was in the run or start position, basically speaking, and not taking into account, the reduced current and voltage, that usually occurs, while the key is in the run position, due to, there usually being a "ballast resistor", in that particular (run), key/position electrical circuit, and also, the reduced battery voltage, that usually happens, when-ever the (electric) starter motor, is trying to start the engine...........The newer, computerized/fuel injected engines, kinda work the same, some-what, but, the so called electrical "ground" (- or negative) side of the ignition coil, usually gets switched on and off, by the vehicle's on-board computer, and the + or positive side of the ignition coil, basically receives battery voltage, there-abouts, when-ever the engine is being started or running, well, as far as I see, that is, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...John Landry............Thanks for watching...........The ignition coil, that you saw in this RU-vid video of mine, was very close to being, the "1.5" ohm, oil filled type of ignition coil, as, it had a "Ballast Resistor" (that was, the white-ish colored, ceramic block type), that was in, the ignition system's wiring circuit............The much older (pre-1975 there-abouts)..."3-ohm" (or a bit higher), oil filled ignition coils, probably, wouldn't have had, a "ballast resistor", in the ignition (wiring) circuit at all...........Yes, indeed, the primary coil of wire, that's hiding inside of, an oil filled type of ignition coil, is what you are ohms (resistance) measuring, and, there should be Ohms "Specifications", that the ignition coil's Manufacturer should have, for each different ignition coil, that they make, for both, the "Primary" (low ohms), as well as the "Secondary" (high ohms, that are usually measured, in the thousands of ohms)............It's always, very good practice, to try and find, the (low & high)...Ohms..."Specifications"...for the..."Exact"...ignition coil, that you are about to Ohms (resistance) test, other-wise, you'll just be takin' a guess, as I see it...........Now, here's my Train-of-thought (all aboard...???...lol)...........Usually (as far as I recall), most of the older, pre-1975 Chevy's, Fords, Dodges, and AMC/American Motors, engines, would probably have the "1.5" ohm, oil filled type of ignition coil, along with a "Ballast Resistor", in the ignition system's wiring circuit...Why you ask...???...well, when the ignition Key, is turned to the Start position, then, the (electric) starter motor spins/engages, and might be drawing, oh, maybe around 200 Amps, there-abouts, and then, the vehicle's Battery "Voltage" will drop down, from about 12.5 Volts, to maybe about 9 Volts there-abouts (I'll have to measure that sometime), and also, the Battery's Amperage, will usually drop as well, and here's why the Ballast Resistor is used with a "1.5" ohm ignition coil.........If we, were to just use a "3" ohm ignition coil, all by itself, then, while trying to start the vehicle, and the Battery voltage dropped to that, about 9 Volts, then, that "3" ohm ignition coil, would drop that 9 Volts and Amperage even more (so to speak), thus, probably ending up with, a some-what, "weak spark", at the spark plug's electrodes, while in the Starting mode, when, what we really want, while tryin' to start a cold engine, is usually, the strongest spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, that's possible...........Now then, here's where, the, shall we say, "Magic", starts happening, when a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, is teamed up with, the correct/specified (ohms/resistance)..."Ballast Resistor" (oh and, besides the ceramic block type of ballast resistor, there was also, a special Resistance Wire, type of ballast resistor, that, as I recall, was, what some Chevys, and some AMC/American Motors vehicles, had in them), way back when............Usually, when-ever a Ballast Resistor, was in the ignition system's wiring circuit, then, here's what usually happened...........In essence, there were really "2...Separate"...wiring circuits, as in, one of them, shall we say, "By-Passed", the Ballast Resistor, when the ignition Key, was turned to the Starting position, thus, being able to provide, all of what the vehicle's Battery (power), had left over, due to the large electrical load/draw, that the (electric) Starter Motor imposed on it, and then, would give the ignition coil, all of the Volts & Amps, there were still available...........Then, when the engine started-up, and kept running, then, the ignition Key went into the "Run" position, and when it did, then, the Ballast Resistor, was now "in" that particular wiring circuit...........So now, that the engine is running & idling on its own, and also, the (electrical) Charging System is operating now, and, it then, increases the battery's Voltage, to about 14.5 Volts, and "without" having the Ballast Resistor in the "Run position" wiring circuit, the "Amperage" (Amps), would usually become too High, and the ignition coil would probably Over-Heat, and cook itself...but...with the Ballast Resistor in its place (with that 1.5 primary Ohm ignition coil), the Amperage is lowered, to a, shall we say...Safe...level/amount of Amps (Amperage), that, that particular ignition coil was designed for (pretty cool huh)............A very long time ago, I actually "touched" (with a finger or two), a Ceramic type of Ballast Resistor, while the engine was running/idling...and..."OUCH"...!!!...Damn, that thing was..."HOT"...!!!...and, it probably was at its Hottest (temperature), at (engine) idle speed, as it had to hold back, those excessive Amperes (Amps), to protect the ignition coil..........The ceramic type of Ballast Resistor, probably, wouldn't be as hot, if the engine RPM's were much higher, as far as I recall (and no, I didn't test it with my fingers, b-cuz, one Burn, was enough for me...!!!...lol)............So then, always try, to Only use, the "Correct/Specified" ignition system, parts & pieces, that were "Specified", for that, "Exact", ignition system, or, the ignition system, might, just be subjected to, a, shall we say, form of..."Russian Roulette"...Yikes...!!!...lol (and, I hope not)...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
HANG ON BUT THERES SOMETHING MISSING DUDE. I have a 12 coil and it tests from ground to middle which we call the tower going 10k ohms. BUT customer vehicle has a 6v coil with a resistor on the side. measuring just the coil from ground to tower in middle, we get much less ohms. So the point I want to make is there are more than one kind of coil. Ballast coil, high output coil, etc etc. They all have different readings. Finally been though my coil was within range and the customers, both on a bench test produced a very small spark. Was out on a job last week early part of in a wedding car place. 10 old vehicles same as queen has but white. The one not starting I powered up the coil and let the tower send the high tension out to engine block. The spark was huge. Like Luke Skywalkers Light Sabre. If you know the secret to how that on a 12 neg ground system with coil in range was so powerful, do tell me.
Indeed you are right about getting the magnifying glass out! Look for the evidence, well I checked oil several times and it seemed normal but a testing of the coolant shows head gasket leak. A lot of bubbles of air always in the coolant to . so now I have to decide which is the better choice fix or buy another car. The exhaust did smell sweet and a little bit of white smoke not a lot but constant even after warming up. I'm thinking about buying another car. I hate "aluminum heads"! Today's cars aren't what they use to be.
Jon Stone Greetings Jon Stone...Ah yes..."Aluminum vs Cast Iron"...say what...???.............................................Here's a good ole saying, for Ya, and it goes something like this..."Aluminum", is only 1/3 the "Weight of Cast Iron"..."But"..."Only" 1/3 as Strong"..!!!............................................Is Your Engine's Block, made of Cast Iron perhaps...???...........................................If so, it could be, by having "2- Diss-Simular" Metals (as in the case of having "2" Different Metals) Bolted to one another, a Person should be aware of, the "Different Expansion Rates/Amounts", of, Different Types of Metals, and, at times, can make for, a problem or two, when taking those Different "Expansion Rates/Amounts into consideration..................................................The "Racing Crowd/Enthusiasts", usually have to take "Vehicle Weight" into consideration, in order to remain "Competitive", thus, "It's usually a "No Brain-er", that, "Aluminum", is the "Metal of Choice"...where-as, when it comes to actual "Strength/Reliability and Longevity"..."Cast Iron", has, over, many, Many Years, "Stood the Test of Time"...!!!....................................For Example...Industrial/Farming/Manufacturing/Machine Shop/Machinery/Equipment, is Made out of "What" kind of Metal...??? (Cast Iron and Steel maybe?).......................................As I see it, when it comes to something, like, having to make the choice, between "Fixing" an Older Vehicle, as opposed to Buying, a, Does-Not need as much Fixing, Replacement Vehicle, it would probably boil down to..."Sentimental Value" (of the Older/Needs Fixing) Vehicle...vs...the (maybe?)..."Cost Effectiveness" (the amount of money, that Might? be saved), by purchasing said "Replacement" Vehicle perhaps...???.................................................."If", Your Engine Block and Cylinder Heads, are "Usable", and You do decide to keep, the Vehicle, that You have now, Do some "Exacting, Information Gathering", in respect to, just..."What", a "Big Name/Brand"...of..."Head Gasket Manufacturer"...that has already done..."Lots of Racing"..."Research and Development"...actually..."Recommends"...for Your..."Exact Engine/Vehicle"...and the..."Manner in which You will be Driving/Using It, as well"...................................................Once the "Major Brand"...of..."Head Gasket/s"...is/are in Your Custody..."Make Absolutely Sure"...that You..."Follow Exactly"...the..."Installation Procedure"...that, the..."Gasket Maker"..."Suggests/Recommends"...along with, the..."Exact Gasket Sealer/Goop" (if Needed?)...along with, the..."Exact Procedure, and Amount of Cylinder Head, Bolt Torque"...as well...!!!.............................................Ok now, the "Ball is in Your Court"...when You're ready, You can make, "Your Final Decision"...lol...................................Good Luck, my Friend.................................Till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow You are a man with a lot of knowledge for sure! I appreciate your info regarding head gaskets and the head metal differences. I know for a fact my head is aluminum and the block is cast iron but since the car has 185k + miles on it I used blue devil sealer for now as it did seal it. I'm buying time until I can find another car. I've been told I am lucky to get this many miles out of the PT Cruiser, I intend to get something with better gas economy and more reliable. I've had over heating issues ever since i bought it. If it were a solid cast iron engine I'd probably replace the head gasket, I think it's time to find another car. I thank you for this info i will keep it for future use. I will keep watching your videos for sure you do share a lot of knowledge that people have lost and aren't willing to relearn. Thanks!!!
Greetings...David Tysdal.........Thanks for watching.........8.36k, does seem kinda low, on the secondary side........See if you can get a hold of a factory service manual, or perhaps, see if the forklift manufacturer has a website, or, any other website, that might have some parts showing, along with their specifications.........Have you tried any kind of spark test at all...???........Should be seeing, a good-n-strong spark, as in, blue-ish, or white-ish, "but not", a weak spark, that usually shows up, as an orange-ish, or yellow-ish color, showing on a spark plug, that is removed from the engine, that is connected to the spark plug wire, and also, grounded to the engine, while out, in the open air........Just make sure that there isn't any fuel vapors or propane gas, natural gas, etc. in the area, when having any open "sparks" happening...!!!........Is there battery voltage, at the Positive (+ sign) terminal, on the ignition coil, while the ignition switch, is in the run position...???.......Might be fuel related, especially if, there is a good spark...???.........Engine compression within reason (usually 100 PSI or more, most of the time)........Good luck, with bringin' "it" back to life, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...boeingtrijet..........Thanks for your nice comment, and, for, watching too...eh...lol...........(here's some food for thought)...even though, an ignition coil, might ohms-test alright, there can be a (rare) time, where an ignition coil, might not work all that well, when it gets up to operating temperature, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one...eh.
Hey..gd job..guy...was wondering.if.my.coil.were goin.bonkers...but.after viewing.your.video...i realised.my.coil is having...almost.the.same.readings...and of course.no.oil.leaks
Hi Rockys. I know this video is a year old or more. I have a 1985 nissan 200sx. And I look at my nissan book. And I see lots of specidi ations but none on the. Oil. I did tha same test you did. At 200 homs And I get neg to positive. 1.1. Only firme I swap pos to neg . i got 1.1 again. When I do the center with neg a 20k I get 10.00 only. Swaping positiv to. Center . same 10.00. Do you thing is to low??? I have this car for 5 years only . and to me the coil look very old. Base on de first reading 1.1. Im thinking on replacing it...the car start and stalled......
Red means positive black means negative. I’ll be sure to formally double check the specifications with the appropriate agency….Now can you get to the point?
Hi Iv got a Fiat 128 Rally 1974 My starter keep on cranking and not start at all, i had to pul battery wire to stop it. After days of strangle i find that the points plastic on it melt little and touching the earth. After fixed the points starter stop keep on cranking. And car starts 100% Thing that confuse me totaly. How can points that touch earth like my car did. Let the starter keep on cranking. How is that possible??? My coil got 3 wires on. 1. Ignition wire to + 2. Wire to points on - 3. Wire also on - (this wire i got no idee where it goes) Realy realy hope you can give me the answer on this. 😁😁😁 The condencor is connected to the wire that go to the points. Condencer is skrewed on the casing of distributor. The extra wire on the negative on coil go down with the ignition wire. So there is 2 wires on negative of coil. One go to points and condenser other one go down with ignition wire. Not to condenser or distributor. I mean its comfusing. Just after i fix points that got short to earth permantly. Starter stop keep cranking and got spark (there was no spark) and car start 100% I keep on thinking that the extra wire on coil negative side got something to do with starter keep cranking. That extra wire make my mind spin. 🤔🤔🤔😃
Greetings...Doug Dobbs........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching........Sometimes, bad, electrical connections, can cause problems too, as in, corrosion, dampness, oxidation, frayed wiring etc. ........If ever, replacing any ignition system parts, make sure to get the "exact/specified" parts, for the vehicle in question, in order to, try to avoid, any unwanted, additional problems......and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Rafael Diaz..........Thanks for watching..........If your ignition coil, is the one, that has two small pin terminals, side by side, as well as, only one spark plug wire tower, then, here's some information, that will hopefully help you out..........Select the low ohms scale, on your ohm meter, then, the "low ohms", should be between about .7 to 1.4 Ohms, when connecting the ohm meter's probes, to, the two small (side by side) terminals, oh, and, before doing so, connect the two ohm meter "probes" together first, to see whether or not, your ohm meter is reading "zero" or otherwise...........If there was a reading, other than zero, when the two probes were connected, then, just subtract that reading, that you saw, from the reading, that is to be taken, from, those two small pin terminals...........For the "high ohms" test, just place one probe, into that (spark plug wire) "tower", and the other probe, onto, one of those small pins (you can do both small pins, but only do, one at a time), but I doubt, that, there will be any difference at all, since you are now, setting your ohm meter, to measure in the thousands of ohms, and is, as follows...........While having, the ohm meter's range, set to, the thousands of ohms (might be 20-k, as in 20,000 ohms maybe), then, the high ohms reading, should be, between, about 8-k to 13-k ohms (that be, 8,000 ohms, to, 13,000 ohms)............To be sure, try to find, the "exact", ohms "specifications", for the ignition coil, that you have there............Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Jorge Caldas............You're welcome, and thanks for watching.............There are so many different kinds and shapes of ignition coils, that were made over the years, for the many different vehicles, and, there were also different types of ignition systems (circuits) as well..............So, the answer to Your question, is, as follows..............The Ohms (resistance) "Values" (both, the low/primary ohms, and the high/secondary ohms), will depend on, what the vehicle's Manufacturer, originally specified, for that "Exact" vehicle's ignition system............So, "Make Sure", that You install the "Exact/Correct" ignition coil, or coils, as the case may be, cuz, if the wrong one gets installed, then, the result might end up being...a weak spark, at the spark plug's electrodes...or maybe...an ignition coil, and/or, an ignition control module, that over-heats and destroys itself...or maybe, as bad as...causing, a newer vehicle's on-board computer, to get damaged, and not work properly, and if so, things tend to get rather expensive to fix, and, could have been prevented, if the Exact/Correct ignition coil, or coils, were installed in the first place...........Some of the much older, oil filled, round, ignition coils, might have anywhere, from, 1.5 ohms, to 3 ohms or more, on the low/primary side (some ignition coils, also required a ballast resistor, more so, to go along with that 1.5 ohm coil, that I just mentioned).............Then, some of the later, epoxy (filled) ignition coils, might have between, just over zero ohms, to no more than, about 1 ohm, typically .5 ohms (1/2 of an ohm) as an example..............As for the secondary/high ohms (as in, thousands of ohms usually), well, that Specification, will also depend, on, just what, the vehicle manufacturer, actually Specified, for that Exact vehicle as well............So, You see my Friend, it's always a very good idea, to have a look for, the Vehicle Manufacturer's "Specified" ignition coil/s, for the "Exact" vehicle in question, so things don't get damaged...and expensive as well.......and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings, once again...Jorge Caldas...........You're welcome...........Well, I started out, just like You are now, not knowing all that much about a car's electrical system, and also, not all that much, about cars in general, as well, but, I sure knew back then, what a "Flat Tire" sure looked like...!!!...lol............While some of my Friends in High School, had cars, and also, some of them, also took the school's Automotive Class/Program, I didn't, cuz, I wasn't all that interested in Cars, back then...until...I graduated from high school, then I caught, the, shall we say..."Car Bug"...and from that point onwards, I'd say, that it's pretty much, at the Top, of my (many hobbies)..."Top 10 List"...so to speak...........Even before the Internet showed up, I was reading...many...did I say Many...Automotive related Books, and, I guess that One could say, that, I have a small Library of them, gathered around here...........Just make sure, that, You are aware of "Safety", when-ever working on a Car or Truck, or what-ever, cuz, that's the most important thing...!!!...and......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Mamjazz Group. LLC..........Thanks for watching..........Well, it all depends upon, just, "Which"...???...ignition coil, that we happen to be talking about..........Best thing to always do, is to find the (electrical) "Specifications", for the "Exact" ignition coil in question, or, you'll just be guessing............Here are three examples for Ya...........Just on the Primary/low ohms side, of a 12 volt ignition coil, you might have an older, oil filled type of ignition coil, that might have about 1.5 ohms, or, maybe 3 ohms (the 1.5 ohm coil, will usually have a Ballast Resistor linked to it), where-as, the 3 ohm coil, probably won't............Then, there's something like a GMC/Chevrolet, H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) epoxy/type of (not oil filled) ignition coil, that will probably have (on the primary side), from, "just over" 0 (zero) ohms...(but not zero), up to, usually no more than, about 1 ohm (.5 ohms, seems to be fairly normal, most times)...........So, all bets are off, until the Specifications are known, for the ignition coil in question, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks Rocky, I found out my question was too brought. In fact, I meant to say "Coil on plugs" type. I had watched a video in which it was said that a good coil on plug is good if it reads 5-6k ohms; anything under means the coil on plug is degrading and should be replaced. The only thing I do not remember is if the video I watched was general about it or particular about the Make of vehicle that was discussed in the video
Greetings...Mamjazz Group. LLC..........Here are a few things for Ya.........That 5-6 K Ohms (K = 1,000...so it's 5,000 to 6,000 Ohms), so, to me, it's just the "secondary" (coil of wire, that's inside of the ignition coil's body), or, call it, the high voltage output side of the coil, given the high Ohms/resistance value...........There's also the "primary" (coil of wire, that's also inside the ignition coil's body, as well) that usually, has quite low ohms/resistance, that's found, in any automotive type of ignition coil, as far as I know...........If you can't find the Ohms/resistance Specifications, for your "exact" ignition coil, then, here's something that might help you out some-what........Maybe, Ohms measure, the "other" ignition coils, that are on your engine, and see what Ohms show up, and compare them to each other..........."Make sure", to only do, "One" ignition coil at a time, just in case the "wiring", to each ignition coil, gets put on the "wrong" ignition coil..........Inside, near the top, of the C.O.P. (Coil On Plug) ignition coil, there will probably be an electronic circuit of some kind, so, Ya have to be very careful, because, it's, shall we say, not as forgiving, as the old school, type/s of ignition coils............The Vehicle's On-Board Computer, might have to interact with, the ignition coil's electronics, so, once again, be careful, and, do it right, just in case..........Also, even though an ignition coil "passes" the Ohms Test (while they are at about room temperature, there-abouts), then, there can be times, where an ignition coil, might start to act-up, and not work so good, when it gets up to operating temperature, just so Ya know.............If you care to, you can let me know about your vehicle, as in...Year...Make...Model...and...Engine size...etc.....other-wise, I'll just be going on, another one of my..."wild-goose-chases"...lol...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I'm very confused. I have a 1981 Toyota tercel with 3AC engine and the book is telling me that I should only get between .4 and .5 ohms On the primary connections but it is showing 1.1 I went to the auto parts store and bought the specified coil listed for this vehicle and it shows 1.8 on primary. Neither my old coil or the new one from the auto parts store will give me any reading from the secondary at all. just does nothing. I'm lost. The car slowly got weaker over the course of one week and then finally it will only idle even if the pedal is to the floor. Everybody is trying to tell me it needs a carburetor rebuild but in my experience if the carburetor is bad and the spark is good you should be able to spray starting fluid in through the carburetor and the engine should rev up. It does not rev up when I spray starting fluid or gasoline in the carburetor. That would generally mean weak spark correct?
Greetings...BRS RC..........Thanks for watching..........Seeing as how, you said, that, the book was showing .4 to .5 ohms on the primary/low ohms side, then, it's probably an epoxy filled ignition coil........The primary/low ohms test, is really "fussy", especially, if it's an ignition coil, that is less than 1 ohm there-abouts.........Here's how I do, that low ohms test.........On my yellow ohm (multi-meter), I set the dial, to the lowest ohms range, and that is, the 200 ohms range.........I then, connect (by hand pressure), the two test probes, and see what the reading is, on the screen........On mine, it shows .3 ohms, which will have to be "subtracted" from, the reading that is shown, when testing the primary connection, on the ignition coil.........Let's say that, my display, shows .8 ohms, then, I have to subtract .3 ohms, and, the true reading will be .8 minus .3 which equals .5 ohms, easy huh..........When testing, the secondary/high ohms, then, the meter's range dial, will have to be turned to, a much higher ohms range..........I try 20K (20,000) ohms range, and see if that will display/read properly, and, if not, then, I move the range dial, up or down one notch, if need be........The secondary/high ohms, might be, oh, maybe 3,000 ohms, up to, maybe 25,000 ohms (ballpark figures), but, always look up the specifications, for any ignition coil, that you want to (ohms/resistance) test, to be sure.........Also, disconnect "all" wires, from the ignition coil, so you don't get a false reading.........For the secondary/high ohms test, put one probe into the socket (hole), that, the spark plug wire goes into, then, with the other probe, touch it to, each primary terminal (one at a time), and see what the meter displays.........As long as there is a strong spark, then, about the only time, that a squirt of gasoline, or starter fluid, into the carburetor bores (holes) won't work, is usually when, there is already, too much gasoline, inside of the engine already (as in, flooded)..........Remove one of the spark plugs, and lay it on a metal part of the engine, and have someone crank the engine over, as you watch for a spark, at the spark plug's electrodes, and, don't touch anything while doing this, or..."Shock"...!!!.........If spark is good, then, Ya might have a clogged up fuel filter...???....or maybe, a bad fuel pump...???.........Ignition system, wiring and connectors, have to be tightened properly, and also be, "super clean", and not, dirty or corroded, or there might be problems..........In your book, does it show wiring diagrams, and if so, look for, how many volts, there should be, at the ignition coil, with the key, in the run (not start) position, with the engine "not running".........There might be, a "vacuum" (air) leak somewhere, as in...leaking intake gasket...disconnected or split vacuum hose/s....stuck open/faulty, PCV/Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve...stuck open, EGR/Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve...which are just a few examples for Ya.........When carburetors get old/have lots of miles on them, they tend to get gummed up, on the inside passageways, as well as, certain parts, will also get worn out also, so yeah, the carburetor, is a "suspect" too...lol.........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
You should have HIGH Reading in secondary ,maybe the new one is bad too. Get a Helper, then remove cable tip from distribution pointing out to any metal, ask the helper to crank it , You should see spark out of tha cable (from coil ) that's REAL an indicator if coil is good Watch out for shocks while holding that cable
I have a 1988 boat(4cylinder IO) that I am switching to electronic module they suggest the purchase a 3olm coil is this really needed or can I use the old coil ?
Greetings...jandjmca mcavoy........Thanks for watching........If the manufacturer suggests, that, you install an ignition coil, with a "specific", amount of low ohms, on the primary side, of the ignition coil, then, make sure that you install, a new ignition coil, that, they "specify", and, here's why........Let's say, for example, that, a 1.5 ohm ignition coil, was used, in place of, where, a 3 ohm ignition coil, should have been installed, in a particular ignition system circuit, then, that (not supposed to be in there), 1.5 ohm ignition coil, would probably start to "over-heat", and possibly get damaged, to the point, where it wouldn't work anymore...!!!..........Now then, let's, now say, that, an ignition coil, that has, a much "higher" then wanted, ohms rating, is put into, that ignition circuit, then, the result, would probably be, that, the "spark", at the spark plugs, would probably be, kinda "weak" (as in, not so strong), or, maybe even be, an intermittent spark, or maybe, no spark at all, possibly.........Most automotive types of ignition coils, have to be, shall we say, "charged-up", on the low ohms/primary side, with a certain amount of voltage and amps/amperes, for a certain amount of time, which is usually measured in, "milli-seconds" (1 milli-second = one second of time, divided into, one thousand, little pieces, and, it's, like trying, to count to, 1,000 in one second of time...!!!)...also, 1 milli-second looks like this----> (.001).........Might be, that, an ignition coil, could be fully charged up, in about 2 or 3 milli-seconds, on the low ohms/primary side, just before it gets triggered, to make that, high voltage spark, which occurs, at the spark plug's electrodes (yes, indeed, ignition coils, do, get charged up..."super fast"...!!!)...and, that's why, the..."correct and specified"...ignition coil...should always be installed, into, that..."exact"...ignition system's circuit...!!!.........If your new electronic module, is kinda like, the one, that is usually found, in an HEI/BIG distributor cap, distributor, then, make sure (if required), to use the "correct"..."heat sink/heat transfer-ing...compound/paste...between the ignition module, and what it gets mounted onto, or, the ignition module, will usually over-heat, and get destroyed...!!!...(use the same "cheaper" stuff, that the computer store sells...and..."don't" use..."die-electric grease"....!!!...because, it won't transfer the heat properly)...(if you care to, you can tell me, what kind of electronic module, you are going to use, and also, what kind of engine and distributor, that you are working on, that way, I might be able to help you out further, if Ya like).......Also, seeing as how, you have a boat there, then, always make sure, that, all of the wiring "connections", are "super clean", and tightened properly, as, boats, shall we say, tend to live in, a rather "high humidity" (moist), operating environment, which, can, and will, at times, cause corrosion, and, bad/faulty wiring connections, at the very same time..........Good luck Captain, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Wasim Edo...….Thanks for watching......There are usually, Ohms "Specifications", for all, of the different types of automotive ignition coils, that are out there...……..If the Ohm-meter, is reading, way too low, or, way too high, and "Not" within, the Ohm Specifications, for that "exact" ignition coil, then, there might be a problem, with that particular ignition coil...…….Also, there can be a time, where, an ignition coil, Ohms tests OK, at room temperature, but, might not work so good, when it gets up to operating temperature...….and......till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Schmitty_Love………..Thanks for watching...…….Bad ignition coil...???...maybe, or, maybe not...……When ohms/resistance testing an ignition coil, then, it's the primary/low ohms measurement, that happens to be, the, shall we say..."fussy one"...especially so, on one of the epoxy filled/low primary ohms, type of ignition coil...…..Even the ohm/multi-meter's test leads, resistance value, has to be accounted for, or, the ohm/resistance reading, won't be very accurate at all...…….Did you place your multi-meter on the lowest ohms range, when testing the primary side of the ignition coil...???...…….On mine, it's the 200 ohms range, and, I have to subtract the ohms/resistance value, of my test leads as well, which is .3 ohms, from, what is showing on the readout/display, while testing the primary side...……Make sure, that, you have the ohms/resistance specifications, for the ignition coil in question, as, I've seen it where, there were two different ignition coil manufacturers, that had different (ohms) specifications, for the very same vehicle...!!!...……If you can tell me more about, what the ignition coil is for/out of, then, I'll try to help you out, and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow I followed those instructions in the video regarding finding the lead resistance and accounting for that on the final numbers, utilizing a Fluke 101 which “auto” adjusts or something making it super cumbersome to find a reading on primary(0.26-0.36 ohms per FSM) and secondary (kohms)resistance readings. Which I am looking at and using the factory service manual for the 2003 Yamaha GP1300R , and to answer your question yeah seems to be the challenging/annoying type of filled coil your talking about. My current issue is that the reading with calculations changes even after doing all calculations....... I set the FLUKE 101 down turn off and come back to it a little while later and it’s completely off again and not within Specs. I had a harbor freight that had a 200 ohms setting but got frustrated with that and went to the FLUKE 101 in hopes it would make things easier to log and diagnose since it only has one knob turn and a button to toggle between the types of ohms. Anyways after further analysis and watching videos online I’m thinking it might be the pickup coils that are integrated into the stator. Finding a new OEM stator and in reasonable price is a challenge these days and if it turns out to be stator will need to disassemble exhaust again and pull the engine out. :/
Greetings...Schmitty_Love………Did you do a spark test at all...???...as in, remove a spark plug, and lay it on the engine, with the spark plug wire attached, and then, crank it over...???...(any spark, weak spark, or, no spark at all...???)……...A water craft, will usually have, a wear-on-your-wrist, ignition cut-off lanyard, will it not...???...and if so, then, that in itself, will probably render, a no-spark, ignition system situation, if it isn't connected properly, I be thinkin'...…..I worked on some older, carbureted, CDI, dirt bike ignition systems, and, it's basically the same, with the exceptions of, the triggering system, and lighting coils, etc. ……...Does your Service Manual, have ignition system, wiring schematics...???...that way, it might be showing wiring colors, with or without colored tracers on them (stripes, dashes, or dots), and where they connect to, and hopefully, along with, some ohm/resistance testing points as well, maybe...……If you are running in the salt chuck (aka, salt water, sea or ocean), then, corrosion is enemy number one, as in, it attacks wiring connections, and, just about anything metal, that isn't, stainless steel, brass, or bronze...…..There's probably a battery on board, for the electric starter, and maybe, for other things as well, I be thinkin', so, make sure that, the battery is fully charged, and, all wiring connections, fuses, and maybe, fusible links too, if applicable, are working properly, and as they should...…..Good luck, and.....till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow I have cranked it over with spark plugs unbolted from the cylinder head and connected and no spark. I cleaned the teeth on the lanyard and it cranks when the key is on and doesn’t crank when key is off....... thinking it’s stator with its integrated pickup coils OR bad ECU at this point. Should have been done with it by now just overwhelmed and not enough money to invest into the project like I once did.
Greetings...Schmitty_Love.........A factory or after-market, manual's wiring schematic (drawing), of your "exact" water craft, is about the only way, in which you'll be able to find out, what is connected to what, especially considering, any and all, of the components, that have, shall we say, "hidden" electronics and circuitry, embedded inside of them (where they can't be seen).........A good service manual's schematic/drawing, should be showing, quite a few "test points", which will also be showing, wire color coding, and (ohms) resistance values, voltages, etc. , that you can usually test (at those test points), with a reasonably good multi-meter, most of the time..........You can also, look for some websites, on the good ole internet, that have "Forums" on them, for your "exact" water-craft, that way, Ya might find a person or two, that might have already dealt with, and have possibly fixed, the very same problem, that you, yourself, are trying to fix, possibly..........Bad wiring connections, due to corrosion, or whatever, can sometimes, be quite the problem, until it's all tested, and fixed..........I sure don't like any "crimped" wiring connectors, especially on a boat, that sees salt water (very corrosive...!!!), because, over time, I just don't trust them, due to, all of the many problems, that I've had to track down, and fix, over the years (and most, of the bad wiring connectors/wire connections, were near any salt water at all)...........So then, try to find a website "Forum", for your "exact" water-craft, and, if need be, ask some of the very smart folks on there, about, how you might track down your specific problem, and get it fixed..........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Worth stripping one down Many years ago i stropped one down to use the wire for rewinding a Scalextric car Oil has a very distintive smell Some years later i broke down in London and had that smell - the coil had exploded!! +
Greetings...Richard Simmons.........Thanks for watching........I've heard that, the older transformers, on the power poles, might have had oil inside of them, that contained PCB's (cancer causing, as I recall), and maybe, the same kind of oil, could have been used in, some of the oil filled, types of, automotive ignition coils as well, possibly...???.......I too, in my teen-age years, use tah rewind, 12 volt, slot car motor's, 3 pole armatures, that were in, both, 1/24 and 1/32 scale race cars (different gauges/diameter of wire, and, number of turns per pole, as well).........Use tah race on, very large, 8 lane tracks........The "larger" track's, 1/24 scale layout was "awesome", and, the faster guys, at that time, could turn a lap, in the 7+ second range...!!!........Use tah, static balance the armatures, by, securing two, double edge razor blades, that were mounted at the correct distance apart, onto, a slot car's, rear, screw-threaded axle, with two nuts, on each end, to secure, each razor blade, then placed on, a fairly level table (worked pretty good, motor ran really smooth/no vibration), and, all we did back then, was to either, drill holes, or, file flats, on the heavy part of the armature's body, to end up with, a good static balance.........Also, shimmed the two magnets, that were inside of the "can" (main housing/body), with adhesive tape, to supposedly, create a stronger magnetic field (magnets were shimmed, as close as possible, to the armature, without having them, rubbing on it)........Also, timed the commutator.........Played with plenty of gear ratios, sponge tire diameters, and even, tire traction "goop"...lol (I recall, some guys using something called wintergreen, possibly)........Guys using the good ole "cox" speed controllers, never got cold hands...!!!...lol...because, after being in use, for a while, those things, sure got to be, on the warm, if not hot, side of things...lol........Tracks, from what I recall, were powered by a number of, quite large, diesel truck batteries.........Sometimes, they would hook up a battery charger, to those batteries, and man, everybody's slot car, sure went a lot faster...!!!...probably, because of, the increase, in battery "voltage", whenever the battery charger was active........If you haven't already seen..."Wing"...slot cars, then, do a search on RU-vid, and watch them "race", well, if you are able to see them, that is (all I see most times, is just a "blurr"...lol), and yes, they are really..."That Fast"...!!!...and.....till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Dennis Mattson...……..Thanks for watching...……..I'm not sure why, the focus wasn't very good.....……Might be the lighting, or possibly, the filming angle, or maybe, it was the glare factor...???...and, till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Dale Beesley………...Thanks for watching...…….There can be a few things, that can cause an automotive ignition coil, to get hotter than it should be, while in operation...……..Sometimes, if replacing an ignition coil, then, there can be the odd time, where the new replacement coil, doesn't have the same specifications (within reason), as compared to the original factory specified ignition coil...……..An example can be, where the primary resistance is not the same as the factory original, as in, installing a 1.5 ohm coil, into an ignition circuit, that was specified to have a 3 ohm coil...……..A fairly common ole school ignition circuit, for a much older points and condenser type of distributor, would be, to have a 1.5 ohm (rated) ignition coil, that was in the same electrical circuit, that also had a resistance component, and some were, a special type of resistance wire, while the other type, usually had a fairly large resistor, that seemed to be imbedded inside of a, shall we say, white-ish colored ceramic block, that was commonly called, a ballast resistor...……..The ballast resistor, was in there, to basically limit, the amount of amps (amperes), that was being fed, to the primary (low voltage) side of the cylindrically shaped, type of ignition coil...……..Whether, it be, an old school, or a much newer type of ignition coil, then, if it gets fed too many extra amps (amperes) of electricity, that it wasn't designed for, then, the result is usually, an ignition coil, that gets too hot, or maybe, just cooks itself, to the point, where it just won't work anymore...…….The ignition coil, might be faulty, possibly...……...So, make sure that, all ignition system components, spark plugs, and wiring, are the specified parts and pieces, for the "exact", vehicle and engine, to help avoid, any unwanted problems, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe take care, and have a good one.
