Ignition coils and HT leads 

Thanks mate!

Thanks Sean, glad you liked it. :)

Thanks Andrew. :)

Thanks Jeff, glad you enjoyed the video. :)

Thank you!

Thanks Jim, congratulations on the new phone! :)

You're welcome James.

Great to hear that. :)

The Marineengine.com website sys they only ship to the USA. Danger is in Australia, I'm in NZ. How to you get your parts shipped from them?

Thanks mate!

Thanks Jim!

Thanks mate. :)

Thanks Paul, it's been bad for a week now, apparently caused by the flu some how...

Thanks Seth!

Thanks Fabian. :)

Thanks mate. :)

You're welcome. :) Was it you that suggested cutting the spark plug? Looking forward to getting your photo for the wall!

Ok; Will do Stu !!.

Sorry Stu; yes it was me that mentioned cutting open a spark plug. Thought it wouldn't hurt to mention that. Thanks for the recognition my friend.

Stu; in Hine sight cutting a spark plug in half diagonally would be a great undertaking. Maybe a ban saw, special metal blade. A vice. I was just curious how it connects one end to the other. I googled "inside view of a spark plug" and Wikipedia has a drawing of a cutaway plug.

Sorry, I would have given you a better shout out about the plug cutting if I didn't have such a terrible memory!

Thanks William!

Thanks Michael!

Thanks Greg, electronics has been a bit of a hobby of mine since I was a kid. I think I learn most of it from those Radio Shack electronic kits. Lots of fun and educational. :) They teach basic 12V electrics as a part of a mechanical apprenticeship, but I personally think you can learn more from experimenting yourself.

Right on I still play and tinker with my old kit if I want to try a idea.

I'm going to tip off my age here. We had a company in the States called Heathkit and I built many of their kits including a 19" color television. I went on to become a systems analyst on a Titan II missile crew in the USAF and eventually received a degree in electronics technology. My career was spent working in the industry to include eighteen years of teaching systems maintenance. I hope people get involved in learning electronics and it is folks like you, with your explanation of how things work, that help to develop that interest. Thanks for taking the time to do what you are doing.

Thanks for the turpentine tip, I'll look into it. Strange about the Yamaha bearings, I wonder what happened?

The brakes components do need to be clean so that they will apply even pressure to both sides and then retract properly when braking is finished.

Dangar Marine alright thanks

Thanks Anthony. Yes, getting bitten by an HT isn't something you forget in a hurry! Yep, will definitely be putting the hydrofoil on next time I have it out of the water.

Hi David, probably! We pull all our boats out there and almost all of them need a good pressure wash before they go back in the water. ;)

I would certainly always start with a carb clean in those circumstances.

Hey Tim, it's amazing how often a bit of disassembly and then cleaning is all it takes to get something working again. Small motors are very touchy. One of the only motors I've never been able to get running was small chainsaw. Had spark, had compression, had fuel but wouldn't even begin to fire. Must have been timing or something but it was quite new. It's still sitting on the shelf to this day!

Funny, you know I think the reason it was running then quit was the I/O switch wasn't working. No matter what I did wouldn't have helped till I fixed the switch. Troubleshooting 101 compression, spark, fuel, ignition and allot of patience. Oh my video may be able to help you with that one on the shelf someday if I ever get done with it. haha

Ha! Outboards aren't great at long distance trips! ;)

Sure, that's a good idea. I'm doing the electrics on my trawler soon so that might be a good opportunity.

@@DangarMarine awesome I'm going to school to a marine technition and your videos help me get a head start and the way you do it is awesome so thanks

Yes, on some units they are moulded in an can't be replaced separately unfortunately. Most of the time the problem with the lead is the plug on the end though that you can replace.

@@DangarMarine I really appreciate your quick response. You are on top of things.Thanks so much

Hey Ron, yeah, I do have some alligator clips for that multimeter that I should use more often as it is very hard to hold a probe against a floppy wire without pinching them together. Interesting that you say it matters more with high resistance, intuitively it seems that it would make a bigger difference with lower readings but I guess more current will pass through you hands the harder it is to pass through the component you are testing.

Basic parallel resistance theory. A 10Kohm and a 100Kohm resistor in parallel will measure 11Kohm, 100Kohm and 100Kohm in parallel will measure 50Kohm. So if your body resistance is 100Kohm ( pretty typical) then the higher the resistance of the circuit you want to measure, the more error will creep in if your body is parallel with the circuit. Just try holding a series of resistors on the probes of your multimeter to see what I mean. I have pretty low skin resistance (I can get a shock from 12volts!) so I have to be careful all the time.

Hi Mark. Best option really is PayPal. T-shirts, despite seeming expensive actually have almost no profit margin. I appreciate your support either way though! :)

@@DangarMarine sweet, can you post the address please?

They ship to the US, Canada and Australia. If you live somewhere else you might be able to use a mail forwarding service.

Coils can definitely develop faults when they get warm and the metal expands.

Thanks Bryan, at the moment no, but it is on the list. Generally it is just a matter of joining like coloured wires.

It will reduce it's life, but would be surprised it died with just one hour of use. Could have simply been a bad plug.

There are a few gauges I would like to add to the Green Machine so I will definitely be filming that when I do it.

It does sound like a fuel issue. Does it get better if you turn the choke on? If so I would be looking at the carburettors and whether the primer bulb is functioning properly (ie, is there fuel in the carburettor bowls)

will sus it out, thanks mate. keep up the good work

Sorry, have never seen one.

I'd definitely clean it up first. It could be a break in the internal windings of the coil or just a bad connection. If you can hear a sparking noise, try having someone start the boat at night while you look for any flashes of light from the motor showing you where the spark is coming from (if it is one)

Thanks for the reply. I've cleaned up the connection to the spark plug and to ground, but I'm still getting an open circuit on the ohmmeter. However it is producing a spark and the noise has gone away, and the engine is running fine now. So I'm probably just going to wait a month till the season is over in my area and replace the suspect coil as part of my winter tune up.

Possibly, could also be running lean from a blocked carburettor jet or a vacuum leak.

@@DangarMarine thanks :)

That pulser coil may have failed, but I can't say I've ever directly tested the magnetism of it, normally I just test the resistance to see if there is a break in the coil around the magnet. You can also test the current coming out of the coil using a DVA meter.

Hi Ryan, the shop only does cars commercially.

Ok so no boat motors you just do this for friends ?

hi Chris the EFI issue with merc i had was a fuse inline in one of the engines and on the other one it had a bad voltage regulator on the electrical panel i just unhook the wires that went to the voltage module and unbolt the two screws and replace , make shure all connections were good before replace any modules ,as well disconnect battery first so you dont do further damage to other components , ps also do a battery charge test some batterys wont except a charge if damaged , maybe another member can chime in on this incase i forgot to mention any other possible cause , cheers gl

Yeah Randy is spot on. I went through 2 voltage regulators on my 2 stk. When the Rach doesn't work it's almost always the v regulator. Look for burnt wires especially at connection(bullet connectors) . It's generally the yellow wires that fry the most

The tach not working, no charging are symptoms of the same fault. Your power generation coils are burnt out, disconnected (broken wires or stator coil to wire joins broken) , or your voltage regulator has failed.Outboard tachos on that non EFI or early EFI (yours) era engines use the AC voltage pulses as the signal. As the number of pulses goes up as the engine increases revs (typically 3 pairs of power coils on engines over about 50hp, so 12 pulses per revolution) , it was an easy and cheap way to get rpm info. Some tachos run off a lead from the rectifier, before the regulator (where they are separate items) , and others off a wire fed from the regulator/rectifier (combined unit) - but the actual pulse data is the same . On modern (2000 on) EFI engines the tacho is normally driven from a signal from the engine computer and may be simple voltage, a 5 or 12v pulse stream or even a servo signal. How the tach is driven is very individual to the engine. Randy has the first item to check though, there is always a fuse in the 12v output to the battery/remote control- and they do break from vibration. If that fuse is OK, time to get out the manual, do a basic regulator check (AC volts on the yellow wires at about 30volts or so, about 14volts on the red out put wire from the reg) and make up a DVA , then follow Stu's video on checking coils with the DVA/multimeter. But I would be suspecting the power coils or regulator have died.

Try readmanual.com and tradebit.com

Hey Emil, yes, it is a lot of ground to cover in one 15 minute video, I probably should have divided it into two videos. The SCR is triggered by a coil under the flywheel that tells the CDI unit what position the crankshaft is in. The CDI uses that information to decided exactly when to fire each spark plug for a given RPM thereby doing the job of a manual spark advance linkage. The first part of this video talks about that in more detail: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5wbmaQXGf54.html

Yes, I have heard it said that a voltage drop test is more reliable.

Thanks Brian!