A bit modern for me! But you invoke more tool envy in me.., I’ve never seen one of those spark visualisers (or whatever they are really called 😄) before. I need, I need!
Excelente video. Tengo una duda : Compre un distribuidor como el del video y como estoy en un país sudamericano, nuestro código de colores es diferente. El caso es que del módulo salen dos cables, uno rojo y otro blanco. Presumo que el rojo va al positivo de la bobina y el blanco va al negativo de la bobina. Me costó mucho dinero y no quiero dañarlo. Gracias
do you know what sort of signal is fed from the distributor to the IAM? is that a hall sensor or VR sensor inside the distributor? I got the one with wires coming straight from its cap, without any connectors. under the arm there is a cover saying "factory tuned, don't touch" or something like that (probably, one of the oldest). my IAM is located under the coil.
according to the manual "the Ignition control module receives a pulsing ground signal via an 6.8ohm resistor. The rate of the pulses corresponds to the engine speed. " witchcraft I am sure is involved. There is a procedure to set the airgap between the distributor chopper and the sensor which is detailed in the manual. The lucas 35dlm8 has the ICM/IAM attached to the distributor body, the 35dm8 has the long cable for remote location of the icm/iam, these were used on later 3.5 carburetted engines but also the 3.5efi. Covers attached with screws that has do not disassemble is always just a challenge. They are pretty easy to pull apart and reassemble. You can also check out the mechanical advance while you are in there.
If that is the Range Rover that was brought to you and konked out and has had starting issues, it seems to me to be more of a fuel problem. Fuel evaporation something along those lines. Those V8's were a bit of pig for fuel evaporation issues particularly when hot starting.
because of EFI and pressure regulator I have never had fuel vaporisation issues. A chum had monster issues with his Rover p6, solved by wrapping the fuel line with tin foil. Yes this was from Project Aegean Blue, that ended up being a stretched wire inside the distributor.
Church House Classics > I'm struggling really bad with my SD1 v8, which has the factory fitted electronic distributor, as fitted to early carbed sd1 v8's. Now i set my engine to top dead centre on the pulley (big mark) and i popped my dizzy in how you did, but the engine will only run when the dizzy is turned so far anti clock wise, that it would be somewhere up at the 20 odd BTDC. I had the timing light on the pulley, and the white mark i made on 6 degrees btdc is really far out, and when i turn the dizzy clock wise getting closer to 6 degrees btdc, it starts to run really bad and when it does get to 6 degrees btdc the engine just cuts out. The engine runs like it's missfiring. Does it sound like i have the dizzy installed incorrectly? or was i meant to set the engine to 6 degrees btdc then installed the dizzy how you did?
How about the other Rover V8 distributor, the 35DE8? The one in this video was the 35DLM8, the one with the module fitted on the side, but the 35DE8 has it all inside, and I've got a problem with one of them, the low voltage bits work ok but there's some kind of daft problem with HT in the cap, there's plenty of strong HT before the cap, but it's too weak to start after it, and I've replaced the cap with a new one, AND a new rotor arm, but it's still the same, and I've tried new copper leads and still it's the same, any ideas? Have you ever had such a problem with a Rover V8?
I have 1991 Range Rover... no spark. I purchased ICM and no idea where to connect. The only after market Mallery Distributor, so its not connected to distributor. Can you offer assistance.
Mallory doesn't need the icm as it is all self contained within the unit iirc. If no spark you need to go through some basics of checking voltage to the coil and distributor LT connections and take it from there. Drop me an email if you are fighting
For the EFI setup it is a quality 12v Bosch coil, there is also an ignition amplifier IAM that runs as 12v too. In other cars I tend to use non ballasted where I can, and the very best coil that is available. I think the ballasted coil setup was in place when starter motors were heavy duty, battery was less efficient and the coils were oil filled. giving the ballasted coil a 12v boost direct from the back of the starter solenoid would often kick an engine into life on even the coldest days. Now we have much better battery technology etc so even when the original 4kg starter is trying to rob all the current there is still enough to give a decent spark.
Need a bit of help, my 3.9 has dropped a few cylinders! Everything else is fine on the engine, you probably came across this before, any idea? Would really appreciate your help.
depends, start with the cheap stuff first. decent ignition setup and then a compression test, you want to be seeing 150psi across all 8 cylinders. if not try a block test next. Are any of the plugs pure white and clean?
LOL how did I know this was you my friend. Thanks again for the knowledge! Ii helps me get my new rover (88) back on the road, I did not know the distributor was just sitting on top of the hole and cranked the engine. I pushed it down and realized I am not sure if it was set right???? Either way I will mess with it this weekend. Thank you sir.
i dont mean to be off topic but does any of you know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Danny Thiago I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Please help, I’m not getting any fire from the ignition wire that goes to the + of the coil and I’m not getting any spark from the coil. Why would my ignition wire be dead?
Hey mate, I've got a rover v8 (see my channel 🙂) it gets to about 3k rpm and splutters and won't rev any further. I've checked vaccum advance and is working by sucking on the pipe. Where should I look? Some wear in the dizzy cap. Running on tornado ecu chip with a supercharger on the top. Running the UK no cat 470ohm resistor with a straight through from manifold. Manifold glows red hot at idle. Cheers if you can help!
I had an issue with a distributor that wouldn't rev past 3k rpm, that was a 35dlm8 and there was too much play between the top plate and the baseplate in the distributor. email me if you need more info
