Absolutely the best I've found on you tube!! Thank you!! To add 3 weeks later, this vid helped me narrow down the no-spark issue I had on a Chinese youth ATV I acquired. It had a bad CDI box.
Great job on video! I would recommend using a peak adapter for dynamic testing of pulsar and CDI. More accurate readings. DVOM will provide inaccurate information leading to unnecessary repairs.
Excellent video & very well explained. After trying everything for 2 weeks your video helped me discover the problem in minutes. The pickup gap had simply become too large, so I bent it down as close as I could and it works perfect now. TIP: when replacing the stator make sure to set the gap right! I replaced it and had the same problem because the gap was still too large. Thank you very much!
Very helpful video. It helped me a lot. I had a bad connection in de green cable that I overlooked. The situation was that I had a unrestricted CDI that was working and an original, restricted CDI that was not working. My first conclusion was that the original CDI was defect but when I bought another one it had the same issue. The difference is that the unrestricted has a short circuit between ground and the sensor that is on the clutch to measure the speed. The sensor is a coil so the unrestricted did work because it used the ground through the coil. The restricted CDI has no short circuit between the speed coil pin and the ground pin so it did not work. When I watched the video I located the white connector with the green cable (ground) and it just fell apart. I soldered the green ground cable and all was good! All CDI’s work correctly now. Thx 4 the video.
thanks guy ,you just helped me fix my 150cc kazuma ATV in afew min,first one I messed with and I ck the gap on the reluctor and it was wayyyyyy off and rusty.it would fire here and there and sometime it wouldn't start at all a hit and mis.but now I cleaned it and set it with a cc it fires everytime.thanks
Yea! I think you are correct. I tried it on a good pickup today. you need at least 4 to 6 volts for noid lite. also looks like we are dealing with micro amps for current. Thanks for the reply!
Good video - most of what he went over I knew but it was interesting to see what values he was seeing voltage wise. I have a 2001 Yamaha ATV that will sometimes die - and typically backfire when it does. After 10 or 15 minutes it will normally start back up. I could not find anywhere what the voltages should be on the output of the pickup coil - or the input voltage to the CDI - or even how to really measure them. So I looked at the signals with an oscilliscope - this might be useful info for some . For the input voltage from the stator - that pretty much a sine wave (at least from my stator) so the VOM meter should read that pretty accurately. The pickup voltage it will not - it is not a sine wave - not even close. If you *know* what a VOM reading should read for a given engine - even though it not actually correct - that fine - it can be useful as a comparison. I did not have that info. The scope shows a +11VDC peak - goes to zero for a bit - than a -11VDC peak - goes back to zero for a bit. For a complete cycle the wave form is at zero voltage for perhaps 30 or 40 percent of the time. It no wonder a VOM will give no reading or very low reading on that type of non-sine wave. You can get a much more accurate reading if you connect a "Voltage Peak Reading Adapter" - VPA - to your meter - rmstator has one - on Amazon - it pricey - $50 - but you can also find that kind of adaptor for half of that easily on ebay. It converts a voltage (to DC) to closer to what the peak voltage is. For me the plus and minus 11V signal displays on my VOM (with the VPA in series) as 5.5VDC (cranking), 9VDC (idle), and 15VDC at hi RPM. You can also use the VDA and find a useful "baseline" voltage for the signal from the CDI to the coil. The oscilliscope shows a very short duration pulse from +5VDC to -12.5 - to fire the plug. A VOM by itself would not capture that pulse. Using the VPA with a VOM I got 2.5VDC cranking, 2.36VDC at idle, and 3.1VDC at hi RPM. RMSTATOR has a pretty detail troubleshoot guide using a VPA. I may have found my problem - may be the stator. Both 49ccscoot VOM reading for the stator voltage to the CDI input and what Rmstator says in their troubleshooting flowchart is WAY above what I'm seeing. Using just a VOM (the VPA is not really needed since what you are measuring it a sine way) I get 2.5VAC at idle - and amost 8VAC at hi RPMs. Way way below what scoot is seeing on his scooters.
Thank you for the help, the stator was exactly my problem. I had replaced the ignition coil, spark plug, and CDI internal circuitry until I watched this video. Learning how to check the stator was crucial. I found my stator was the problem, ordered a replacement from Amazon and that worked. Kids are off again terrorizing my neighborhood in their go-kart. Thank-you so much!
This is a great video, succinct and to the point. I always start with cleaning up grounds so I know my other numbers are good but this is my first time dealing with exciter coils and pickup coils (magnetos). Keep up the great work!
Dude you saved the day again, i was checking according to this video and i noticed there was no ground to the CDI, this is a honda 100cc horizontal engine, ohm readings in this one are very similar to yours Thanks
i have a 150cc that used to run ok and then the dash, made of fiberglass started to crack and dismember itself , causing certain switches that were mounted on them to falter and break off. I lost my headlight and was forced to splice inorder to get home one night. Well apparrantly the splice caused the battery to drain and because I have ran the splice from a hot black wire from the high bean switch, which was one of few still attached to the fiberglass surrounding the left handlebars. Well that just fucked everything up. Once I stopped that connection, I was forced to get jumps with cables, and everytime it seemed to take longer to get the motor started. I also noticed that the run off line from the carb floats was starting to really get bigger each time I was in need of starts. Now, with a fresh battery, spark still from the plug, this SOB wont turn over. I have taken the carb off 5 times to ensure the jets werent clogged, and that the floats were allowing fill up and when that occured , the gas was being shut off the flow to the carb. WTF did i do????
If it's not getting any fuel, then you may have a petcock problem (failed or lack of vacuum supply) or a pinched or clogged hose or filter. If it's getting gas, try checking compression. Valves need periodic adjustments too and when they're out of adjustment it often makes them hard to start. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s0K-ytyjOFg.html
I have an ATV that only has a pickup coil . I got the same 145ohm reading at the wire butt conector . But once I connect it and check resistance at the CDI conector unplugged I get 4ohm . Is the wiring bad ? Also I crank the engine but get not voltage reading . Any help? Thank you!
Nice timing, i just had my stator fail, got me home from a trip last night but in the morning no go, a pretty bad month, 1st losing the piston ring pin and now this :( gona order 2, one as backup so i wont be stranded.
Man great vid I'll try this I have been charging my battery at the end of the day every day for the past month because if I don't some time the next day it will loss power I did not know were to start but thankx for the vid I'll start with this.
CandyFishRave This is not what you should be checking for charging issues. The exciter and pickup coils are for spark/ignition. Check these videos out for more help there : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AZbg-krvZM4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xS58b5jZ0ic.html
Your average everyday business card is ten thou thick. We use them in setting the coil gap on mowers ALL the time. oil filter boxes work too. or a matchbook... You know that particular weight of paper.
I recently bought a second hand 50cc gy6 and i'm having a strange electrical problem I think could be the stator. One headlight is brighter than the other on low beam, on high beam only the brighter headlight works. When side lights are selected the taillight is bright, when i switch to headlights the tail light dims to almost nothing. Finally today i noticed when idling on my commute I noticed if I turned my headlights on the idle would drop and stall the scooter if I didn't rev it. Could this be the stator or something else? thanks for looking.
Dim lights at idle and headlights affecting the idle (making it idle lower) are normal for the AC powered lighting systems. Adjusting the idle may help both. For the rest, I'd start with checking out the wiring. The lights probably have the same power source from the switch, so I wouldn't suspect the stator for uneven lighting levels.
Ok I've started looking over the wiring and opened up the wiring harness protective cover through the under seat area and there's a few wires spliced together then covered in black tape, is this Chinese build quality or something the previous owner has done you think? i'm going probably go to test the stator outputs from this video and your other video for the charging and lighting checks just for piece of mind in the mean time
49ccScoot my scooter doesnt turn off from the key, checked the ignition switch is good but the minus from the ignition is not (white and black) does not have continuity till the grey CDI
The CDI is ultimately what shuts off the spark, so if the CDI doesn't receive the signal to stop, then you will have to find out if you've got a wire disconnected or broken. Also make sure there is a good ground to the kill switch.
Nice tut. Do you have an idea of a good place to find oversights to various makes diameter and stack specs of ignition packs (backplates, flywheels, stators, breaker/switch and coils) ? I have a bit (!) of an old timer ignition custom upgrade invention project at hand and all I have found so far with the shop parts, are "compatibilities" for so and so vehicles. My hog´s so far beyond end production that I cant find neither parts or documentations. I need to find something amongst todays makes closest fits, I need oversights of geometrics... Heeelp ! :D
Perhaps reason for having so many different specs is because different Chinese scooter manufacturers use different stators, got to find out what stator type was originally used on the scooter manual is for then you can map resistance values to that particular stator (not scooter). e.g. 49cc GY6 come with 3 types of stators that are easy to distinguish by looking at the connector type 1 has NO ground (green) wire, type 2 has ground (green) wire, type 3 has no ignition/cdi wire.
Good luck with that. I can tell you from personal experience that you find stators of the same style that are wrapped different. Some will fill each winding and some cheap out and leave room for more. When you've got that going on, it's gonna be real tough to find anything you can be sure is accurate.
Scooter pickup coils should output anywhere from 1 - 10 VAC depending on RPM. You need to use a peak hold meter to see this. The meter you're using won't show this since the signal transitions are too brief to register correctly which is why you're getting a low reading.
Black/red is generally the exciter output. It's dedicated to providing power to the CDI on models with AC CDIs. White and yellow are charging and lighting outputs for the battery, headlights, auto-enricher etc...
hi, excellent video, i have 150gy6 (vento phr4) do you know how much watts does an 8-pole stator produce?? I am thinking of installing a set of 35w h4 lamps (70w total) and I don't know if the stator produces enough energy. How should I measure the output in watts of the stator?
Do stator run in oil I have a suzuki gz250 street bike took the cover off oil came out,I read some run in oil keeps it cool,some say it doesn't thanks for the video
The gap helped me immediately with brand new stator, cdi, regulator, starter...but only getting 21.4 volts when cranking on fully charged battery on a 125cc ducar engine. Any pointers? Bike fires up and runs after resetting pickup gap but is stator not up to snuff?
For a spark plug, I always put in a new plug or known good plug. For wires, you can check resistance and make sure their connections are secure. Coil resistance specs should be in a service manual. The CDI is another swap out. I don't know of a way to test them without some special CDI tester.
no spark is usually bad cdi so try to borrow from any scooter atv snowmobile chainsaw that has similar looking cdi as for gy6 normal china scooter or replace it first. can also heat the cdi to fix it like in oven google it for temps and times.
Nope not all have continuity test. I'm working on one where the owners multi meter doesn't have continuity. It has AC and DC volts DC current ohms and diode test. I had to use my fluke which has that and additional testing for transistor and capacitance and coil.
I'm trying to figure out why I don't have spark I've replaced everything other than the stator but my stator only has the hardness and only one separate wire is this normal
For some scoots it may be normal. They aren't all wired the same. If it's a Chinese scoot/engine, there are multiple variations in stators even for the GY6 for example.
TBH I'm not sure. The signal may come from the leading or trailing edge, so if you were to use a reluctor of a different length centered in the same position then it would change timing. Otherwise, not sure.
Where does your Black/Red wire go to? I have both from stator. I have mate to CDI. (CDI > Blue/White - Blue/Yellow > Stator) On my CDI on the 2 PIN. I only have the bottom with Black coming out going to ignition.
The scooter I have has sat inside for a long time because it wouldn't start. Everyone says the cdi, the stator, bla bla bla... I went through all of that. Switches, stator, cdi, wiring... I did find some problems but when I got it to turn over finally, the starter would turn, then not turn, so I took it off to clean it and bench test it. The starter bearings were bad and sticking. It has sat for 5 years after 2 mechanics charged me to check out, told me it was cdi and stator... for a bad starter that not one mechanic ever mentioned to check or checked themselves. Sometimes it is a mechanical issue. Check the moving parts...lmfao
Do anybody knows what this part does it came off of my 260cc linhai scooter part number 05ro-1020 cause i have changed every eletric part on it that deals with the spark and i bought a new wiring harness
90GTVert I don't get any spark from the coil . It try's to turn over but no spark.i tried changing the coil and Cdi and still nothing It's getting gas . The kill switch I believe works. It won't turn on with it off but try's to start when it's switched on ...
I can understand the awareness of valves, but gosh dang, a week ago, it was running like a champ, driving Interstate 15 in Vegas to work n back.. So what's the reason why the float levels, when full, aren't delaying fuel from continuing, but yet I do a blow check , personally & when floats hit full, I cannot blow into intake of fuel line.
So you're asking why fuel continues to flow into the carb, I assume overfilling it, even though you can blow into the fuel inlet and it stops the airflow? Maybe the float height is set too high.
So Joey, if you were me and all you have witnessed is a constant cranking without the engine turning over, all though, knowing there is spark from an engine that less than a week ago was flying strong until vandalized,,,,, what would be your next move?? I am staring at the carb now, which I have taken off 6 times now and I am wondering is there something simple, like the needle valves not properly positioned, or is the idle screw not lowered enough ,,,, as to why its not turning over?? Should the butterfly valve be open on the idle screw as a pre start up [position and how far is the mix screw supposed to be?? I mean, am I flooding the carb so bad that its being choked?? SHIT MAN!
So what if my 139QMB 50cc with an 80cc head starts right up idles and accelerates fine and loses spark once it warms up? Starts right back up and shuts right back off.
I would try to check ignition components once it's warm. Compare cold and warm specs and factory specs and see what changes when it's hot. If you can't find anything that differs, but it's definitely got no spark or a weak spark when hot, then try swapping out the CDI, assuming you've already changed the plug.
I also have a question about the stator and I replaced all the electric components and still have no spark. It's a 2008schwinn sport. I rode it 4 days ago and put it in the garage and now it's Dead. Nothing will work I can only jump the starter to get it started. Please help
It sounds like you have a battery issue. If the stator was dead, jumpstarting would do no good. I'm not sure, but you may have a DC CDI. That's a CDI that uses battery power instead of AC power from the stator. DC CDIs will not operate to create a spark without a good battery.
Not to the rectifier/regulator. To the CDI for a trigger signal. You can watch this happen with a voltmeter. It has nothing to do with charging/lighting.
@90GTvert I ended up purchasing a malossi over range kit bec my stock cvt was having too many slipping issues. I had a question for you, do I need a different stroke crank or anything else different to run the 103cc big bore kit on the 1e40qmb? Thanks again for your help
fastmalibu01 Yes. You need to use a crank with a 45mm stroke if you wish to get 103cc from a 54mm bore kit. It will take quite a bit of clearance work to fit the 90cc+ crank and cylinder onto stock 49cc cases unless you get lucky and have the 1E40FM or 1E40QMB-A that are sorta oddball engines. Lots of info : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching
I have a question I'm hooking up a two stroke engine on a 4 stroke fram the wire hook up on the stator has four wire's you already know the two stroke has five is the black a ground cause there are white and yellow in a two plug then there are two in another with a blue line in one wire an a red line in the other what do I do with the black wire commuting from the stator
i have a problem with my atv, I get a spark and the lights work, battery is fully charged and starter turns but it will not start. Have tried everything I could think of, and help?
hi, i buyed a chinese atv 100cc but got a problem with the spark its to low you can barely feel it on your hand., what can it be? a lot of technician or mechanics want me to take my mtv to their workshop., but the prices are to high., what can i do?
+viln o First off, please stop trying to electrocute yourself a little at a time. It's not healthy. Try using a tester of some sort, or just observing the spark across a spark plug. Could be many things. This video covers one. Could be the coil, wire, connections, reluctor gap, or maybe the CDI.
Thanks for the info. The bike im working on is a Qlink Axon50. It does not have a green ground wire coming off of the stator. Is it grounded to the motor? Also im getting continuity between the engine block and all wires coming from the stator. does this mean it has melted the wires the ground on the stator?
@@49ccscoot thanks for the reply. These Chinese brands are hard to find but I’m going to remove the coil and see if the wires were burned together and shorted.
Evaldas Kucinskas Hi, So I have a Honda SA50 1996 And I replaced the starter cause it wouldn't turn I replaced cdi box and ignition coil and still no spark also new battery I had it running yesterday I killed it and it won't start anymore. No power even gets to the cdi box what wiring could've gotten messed up
@90GTvert thanks for the help yeah I'm gonna check it out. Wow just keep getting so unlucky with my project, it turns out I just tried to install the malossi overrange and my variator doesn't fit, it turns out the crank on the engine is 5/8 and the inside diameter of the malossi variator is 1/2in. Do you know any solution on what I can do?
fastmalibu01 I've got info on my OR kit for the larger cranks, including all part numbers, here : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/3442/malossi-large-spline-over-range You may be able to just switch out the boss and ramp plate if your variator is the same. I've got some measurements there too that many help you figure it out.
