Brake repair job on a 444 International tractor, the same brake system is used on the B275, B414, 276, 434, 354, and 384 tractors, and is very similar to the disk brakes on the Farmall line of tractors.
Recently got one of these, rusted to all hell as the guy who had it lived on the coast and have had it standing outside all these years The breaks are barely functioning so thanks for this video
Great video and explanation, I'm about to do brakes on my 1967 424. I laugh when people talk about brakes on a tractor mine have never stopped worth a darn in the fifteen years I've owned it.
@@CanadianRedneck15 Thank you for the quick response. I will check out A&I for the parts. I have been looking at Steiner. I have been fixing my old guy up little by little. I use it every season and can't tear it apart all at one time
FYI, the IH 424 has the same brakes, but because it is a little smaller, on the right-hand side (the one this video shows), the differential locking pedal prevents removing the brake housing. I had to remove the pedal first. Also, I had to remove the linkages from the housing to put it back on. Goes on easy when you can rotate it ~30 deg. Just hit up the hinge pins with some liquid wrench first and get some replacement cotter pins.
All good I have a 444 and have done the brakes on it in the past I think you hit all the key points. But way way too much never seize just put it on the start of the threads and you will have it between your toes when you clean up.
I am glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah, never seize is wicked stuff, a little bit on your finger will have you looking like the tin man! Thanks for watching!
Any chance of a video on replacing seals to stop oil leak in the disc brake housings? I have a b414 and the oil is pouring through. I have the manual, but don't understand how to remove the cage.
I will add that one to the list, unfortunately there are some other projects on the go so it won't be quick. To get the brake shaft cage out you have to lift the hydraulic lift unit off and remove the rear axle on the side you are working on. With the axle out you can move the bull gear rearward in the case so the cage will come out past it. On the right side you must take the lock ring off of the differential lock shaft so the bull pinion shaft (brake shaft) can come off of it. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
got a IHC Mc Cormik 434 here in Austria, it has the same system, thanks a lot, ill adjust it first , if thats not enough ill change brake pads, but i guess ill need to do that, the brakes are so weak that you dont even notice the handbrake when you drive whit it on on accident, the tractor rolls downhill with footbrakes pushed all the way...
Thanks for this, just about to do the same on B-450 again! The brakes are worse than ever since I replaced the linings. Perhaps they were too hard. I could probably benefit from the softer ones that you used here. Can I get those in UK though? Please let me know who sells them in Canada. Many Thanks
Do you have any videos or can you do one on the wiring for a b414. All the wiring is gone on our 1963 and I’ll be getting to replacing it very soon. Love the videos they’ve been very helpful.
This helped me get the brakes off and cleaned up, but I have a bad oil seal on the left side. How can I get the backing plate off? I removed the bolts from the backing (6 of them), but the plate won't budge.
You have to remove the axle from that side and move the bull gear so you can pull the bull pinion housing. You can see the process in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EST-ssHkrIo.html Thanks for watching!
I have an International 305 Utility that just barely grabs. The disc thickness looks pretty good. Might be they're too hard like the ones you described? I took one apart and cleaned it up, put it back together; not much if any difference. Maybe I just need to tighten the adjuster on it? Also think I might need to replace the seal, but can't figure out how to remove the plate.
I assume you mean a 350 utility? Those original disks were like granite and would glaze up very badly, you should be able to get a replacement disk with the softer material for it as well. The seal plate should come straight out. Make sure you have all the bolts out then use a couple of pry bars and wiggle it. It's a "snug fit" and on an oring so it will be pretty tight. Good luck and thanks for watching.
I've got an IH666 with a similar system. I replaced the brake pads and adjusted the pedal play a few months ago. They worked fine for a while, but then the left brake started sticking and/or grabbing really hard. It would always free up, but the grabbing continued. I took off the cover to look and took out the pads, but I did not remove the actuator. All looked normal, so I put it back together and the problem was fixed. I just tested it under hard braking at high speeds and it all worked fine. Do you think my issue was worn actuator balls? Should I take it apart and see, or is it possible that I will get lots more life without problems? Thanks for informative videos
If you didn't take the actuator out but the problem is gone I wouldn't think there was a problem with the actuator. If it starts acting up again that is a place to look though. Thanks for watching!
Roger, So I've replaced the brakes exactly as shown on the video, took the actuator apart , did replace one ball , the size of the replacement ball is 7/8" put the brake unit back on left side ,adjusted it and it works well. When I put the right side together ( right side when sitting on the tractor) I have the adjuster adjusted all the way and still have no peddle. I took it back off and replaced the hinge bolt as there was a considerable amount of slop in the pull. Put the actuator back on and still no peddle. I'm not sure what the next step would be to get adjustment to even both breaks. Any suggestions?
If there is much slop in the pulls it will be hard to get much pedal. Over time the friction surfaces can get worn and you may have to machine some off the edge of the case to tighten up the space for the disks to get any "bite". Thanks for watching!
Mahindra company also giving same gear box ,same brakesystem(exept pin),reduction system till the date,even a bolt nut didn't changed only seat was changed
I could do with some advice and I am sure you will know, I used to work at IH dealer years ago and there were problems with splitter box or torque amplifer but was it improved with later 4210 series as I am looking to buy a 1994 model
Some times the brake disks grab and lock the actuators. If you were going forward back up a little and that should release them. You should have about an inch of "slack" in the brake pedals. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I have a 424 with the same brakes that had sat for a few years and one of the actuators rusted beyond salvage and I had to replace. The replacement actuator assembly + new pads is ever so-slightly thicker than the housing will accommodate, and so, that brake is always locked when properly tightened. Any1 have any ideas other than taking the new actuator to a machine shop to get milled down a little? Or, having a thin metal "gasket"/shim made to give the pads room to spin freely when actuator not engaged from pedals?
FYI, this is where I got the replacement actuator, saw many on ebay as well, but wasn't sure about ebay... www.tractorpartsasap.com/brake-disc-actuating-unit-new-international-105484.html
Mine were done by a local outfit that did a horrible job. Set them up too tight and glazed the brakes (actually one side was smoking) Ill do the job myself so its done right but super keen to know what pads you recommend? Even when I got it back from the shop they worked horribly. LOVE this and all of your vidoes!
I use the disks from A&I Products, you find a local dealer from their website, their disks are a softer material like a clutch disk, the originals were like granite and would glaze up in no time and you had no brakes again. I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Hi. I have a A414 in Australia and my LHS brakes lockup/jam when I use them. I then have to put the tractor in reverse to loosen. I have already dismantled and cleaned them and have adjusted the play in the pedal but that did not help. Do you have any ideas as to why they would lockup like that? Thanks mate
Hi again Dave. I've done the brakes on my 444 and put them back on. My wheels are still locked up. They were fine while brakes were off but locked up again when new brakes went back on. Could I have a gear problem or worse. Thanks. Brian.
Sometimes as the brakke parts wore people would "shave"the case to make a tighter fit or it's possible that the actuators have the wring size balls, they should be 7/8 of an inch.
hey Dave Where do you usually get parts for a McCormick. I have a B250 that needs brakes and i want to replace the injectors this winter. I'm in Ontario.
I found you looking for fix to -as you said- super I mean dangerously grabby brakes on our 444. Left side grabs very badly.coming off a trailer or with a hung load (front bucket loader) very dicey. Any advice on what to look at? Thank you!
Check out the balls and ramps in the actuators for rust or dirt and check for any oil or grease on the disks. If everything appears clean and in good order try backing off on the brake adjustment a little so you can control the pedals easier. Thanks for watching!
My 444 seems to be leaking trans oil out the spline brake shaft. Can the inner plate be removed and is their an oil seal on the shaft? How hard of a job is this to do?
The brake shaft housing has to come out as the seal goes in from the inside end. To remove that housing you have to remove the axle and move the bull gear out of the way. You can see the process in videos found here ru-vid.com/group/PLTZSkooohOVEF8jj0z7zoMLIlYNHwyyU3 Good luck and thanks for watching!
If you have tried going ahead and back and it doesn't release you will have to pull the brake housing off and check out why it is jammed. Thanks, for watching!
G'day sir! I got a 434, broke an axle last year and BROKE the other one this year due to grabbing brakes! THey dont just grab, they LOCK as soon as you touch them and I have the big highway tires about 5 feet tall so when they grab they broke my left axle and NOW my right axle! What do you suggest for brakes? DO you sell them? I gotta take them out yet and see ... was thinking they are all rusted or down to steel thus the grabbing? Im in Ontario, if I buy brakes from you would shipping be expensive? Thanks for your videos. Or do you know why they are grabbing so bad? Thank you!
The new style disks are grabby, that may be your issue. Make sure the actuators are clean and work freely, back the adjusters off a little so it's easier to control braking pressure. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 yes the tractor dropped and I think it's the same problem from your video where you rebuilt the oil pump plant to start trying to get my oil pump rebuilt soon
Liked your video! My Super M won't stop very well... What brand of disks did you purchase for your 444? I'd like to try a disk with softer material as well.
Is the 2444 built in Louisville Kentucky going to be about the same? I know that they are not exactly the same as a lot of people say because even the hydraulic suction screen is different between European and North American of the same tractors. I also noticed that you have a parking brake lever that mine has a place on the pedals that looks like a part of gear on a rod that hold the pedal down at the gear that holds it.
My understanding is that the transmission assembly came assembled from England and if gas a US engine was fitted and US made sheet metal etc was made to assemble a complete tractor. I believe if the tractor was diesel it used the British engine. As far as I know the 2444 would use the same brakes as the British 444. If anyone knows different please let me know. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the response. The transmission section definitely came from England but mine is a gasser so it was built here I “ think”. The front and sheet metal is yellow all the way to metal where the transmission is red underneath the yellow before you get to the metal. Thanks for your reply. I did not even think about that being shipped from England even though I knew but it slipped my mind. I do know that finding the correct suction screen for mine is difficult and cost about $300 instead of $30.
Good job! your'e my kind of guy ...getting the job done the right way! I have a B275 and needs breaks done...[near Edmonton], where are you getting your parts?
Thank you very much, some might argue the "right way" part but I do my best. LOL The disks I use come from A&I Products and you can get the balls from them as well. Go to the A&I website and you can find a local dealer. Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry I don't have any in stock right now but I should have later this week. If you are in North America you can go to A&I Products website and find a dealer near you. The part number of the disks is 1975464C2. Thanks for watching!
@@felixmarwei1230 OK, so that won't work. LOL I will try to remember to measure the disks when they come in. If you haven't got a reply from me in a week remind me.
Not really, there's a bunch. Spindles, tie rod ends, front axle pivot, clutch pedal, release bearing, brake shaft/ pedals, and the lift arms. There might be one or two I missed but I think that's all. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the good quality of the video and the thorough explanation. Very well done.. I need to renovate my B414 diesel injection pump. Any chance you have a video for it? with your explanations I'm sure (almost) anyone can do the job.
Thank you very much, I am glad you found the video helpful. I don't have any videos on the injection pumps but my buddy Lance at Bundy Bear's sed does, check it out here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-h26p78YZIr4.html Thanks for watching!
I am a parts dealer so I get them from me, I run a tractor salvage yard and also sell new aftermarket parts. I get the brake disks from A&I Products. You can search on their website for a dealer near you. Thanks for watching!
I'm sorry, I don't understand, I think you are asking for a video on a 624, if so, I can't help you there, I don't Have any 624s around to work on. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a 444 and the brakes are seized. Should I take the brake system apart like in this video or could there be a more simpler solution. By the way. I love the videos. Very helpful
The brakes are seized how? If the pedals won't move that would be the brake shaft under the trans case, otherwise you will pretty much have to take them apart like in the video. I am glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching!
@@brishorl The pedals are supposed to have grease fittings, if they are still there you will need to remove them to see if grease will still pass and replace as needed. Try getting some grease in there and you may need to use a hammer or some leverage to get the pedals loosened up.
Hi Dave, Can you show how you took off the brake adjuster. I have the diff pedal and the brake pedal on the left is free also but the pedal on the right won't go down so I'm taking it apart tomorrow. I can't see in the video how you removed the brake adjuster.
@@ericcecil6605 I'm glad to hear it, that was the idea behind this channel, to show that most people have the ability to do a lot of these repairs themselves.
I just bought brakes and balls for my Ih 444 because it wouldn’t stop when I pressed the brakes I put the new ones on and still will not brake I adjusted almost to end of adjusting rod What else can I do to get it to brake Any help would be sir appreciate I love your videos They help me when I rebuilt my Uk Ih 444
Are the new brake disks hard ones like the originals? They don't grab terribly well. Do you have the pedals adjusted up reasonably high? Thanks for watching!
Canadian Redneck thanks for the fast reply My new brakes are not like the original no revets like the ones I took off the rightside lock nutt with 1 inch play but the rightside I had to take the lock but off to be able to adjust the rod to get the pedal even with left one
It seems like it wanna just like I just did both sides and cigarette right hand side that I had to takeoff the lock nut because they may be able to get the pedal even with the left-hand side I was just wondering maybe it’s the actuator is not working right and it’s more help with appreciate it I just took off the left side again going to check out the actuator see it seems like they don’t move further enough when you try to pull them out like I will try again if there’s anything else you could help me with I appreciate it thank you very much
Canadian Redneck it seem like. Te acturaltors don’t open enough to push the disks brakes against drum the right pedal has to be adjusted to end to b able to bring pedals even Can it b the actuarlators that is the problem Thanks for your fast reply
With the original disks we had the same problem, we put these replacement disks in and haven't touched the brakes in a few years now, will still drag the wheels. Thanks for watching!
Is it at the exackt same place or on an other because i have seen it and it is not in this spot if you can tell me where is it it will help me very much
i cant believe how anyone can work without cleaning the housing and inside of brake cover surely cleanly ness i essential putting new bits into a shithole mess like that bloody disgrace
Thanks for the info and the tutorial, works exactly the same on the b414, problem is that the brake axle is stuck at mine... any suggestion to get it loose?
Do you mean the disk is stuck on the shaft? That happens, can be really tough to get off by times, try a pry bar, sometimes I have had to use a chisel to get under the disk to get it started. Thanks for watching!
Ah, OK, there are grease zerks in the pedals, you could try removing and cleaning or replacing them and force some grease in to loosen things up or you may have to drive the shaft out and clean it, then replace and grease it well. Good luck.