Thank you for making this. Can’t believe ikea didn’t think through this problem themselves with any instructions or additional info about finishing boards.
This is literally why i love youtube! I fitted these wardrobes today. And thinking. What is the best way to fit the wardrobes to the wall. Boom. The video i was after!
Thank you so much for the detailled tutorial. This was extremely helpful. We live in a rental and I didnt want to rip out the skirting so this is the perfect solution!
It would be much easier to just put a solid narrow board (just like the skirting) across the whole unit. That way you can screw the board into the wood studs in the wall which would be much more reliable. And it makes the install easier since you don’t need any anchors. Then you can just drill from inside the wardrobe and put the screws in place. Much easier since you don’t have to line up the holes and much more secure. This is assuming you have a stud finder device and studs in the wall at some fixed distance as we do in most American homes at least.
Wearing the shoes of an assembler, this is unsustainable. All you need is some elements behind the brackets. Moreover the back surface of Pax is not just even. Only fits one-shot personal diy experiences.
The guy has brick wall, no studs. I'd guess studs is really something US specific. From personal experience in Europe 80% of time you have brick or concrete wall.
What you say could work assuming the room you're install in has square and level floors and walls. Securing them in my 1890s build weatherboard house's wall was a whole different story, as distance between wardrobe and wall varies depending which side of the room you're in hehe
You can use drywall anchors and there is no need to line with studs, it's not holding the wardrobe weight, just prevents it from falling on you, and the drywall anchors are good enough for it
Does this compromise the load-bearing ability of the wardrobe? The structural integrity? Trying to decide if i should do this but have a LOT of clothes 😂
@@Kiara_Wrestler I’m not engineer but I dont think so. Body is made of chipboard and if you have sharp blade holes are to look clean and pieces are easy to cut. Skirts are so thin that the modification/difference is actually very small. My closet is also full of stuff and still perfectly standing 😊
Great tutorial. Especially the ‘how to compensate for skirting’. Another technique I’ve used (and picked up from shop fitters) is to cut the skirting board section out so that the unit sits flush with the wall. That said if you have carpet you’ll also need to remove the gripper rods underneath so that the unit will sit level.
Thank you for this! I actually have baseboard heaters to contend with.. pushing out a full 4 inches. But this video is really helping me figure it out!
Hi Peter! This is an exceptional video, thank you. We are trying to decide whether to remove the skirting and affix it directly to the wall (we installed this beautiful skirting a couple of years ago so I acknowledge my hesitation is not practical..) or do what you have done here but to a plaster wall. Do you have any suggestions about the gap to make it appear a little more aesthetically pleasing?
Am a PAX Installer in Melbourne/Australia & wall attach is a personal choice with 58cms depth but advisable with 35cm depth & 50cm doors/sliding doors Can remove skirting board (SKB) and replace where required, cut the SKB to fit the frames where required, with SKB in situ-use a piece of wood over holes or full width of PAX, 20mm electrical pipe etc. Interesting video but not a way I would select. 3cms off wall option would be steel brackets on top. Many ways available
Thank you so much your videos were very informative and useful. I wanted to know if I can the attaching the wall part, I don’t want mine attached to the wall. Hopefully someone will be able to answer me.
I used mini space plugs instead. Held them in place with a little bit of double sided tape whilst screwing through from the wardrobe. A less invasive, more discreet and just as sturdy way of filling the void when skirting and/or picture rails are in situ.
Can you please explain the purpose of the wooden piece? I have my PAX fixed to the wall in brick wall. There is about 1 or 2 cm distance between the wall and the wardrobe, but it seems to be fixed in place.
It's used to offset the cabinet from the wall the same distance as the baseboard. I think most people would cut the baseboard with an oscillating tool so the cabinet sits flush to the wall, though.
The wood could also be extended across the whole wall behind the wardrobes and fixed to the uprights that makeup paster board walls. Then you can carry on connecting the wardrobes more securly straight to the wooden battens and not worry about plasterboard issues.
Its far easier if you put a full batten the same width as the wardrobe onto the wall instead of small bits of wood for 2 reasons...less chance of washers screws hitting screws on wood as you can have screws wider apart...you don't have to join wardrobe together first as batten already there, 1 wardrobe far easier to move than 2 wardrobes ! Your wardrobes are not plumb to the wall as your wood on the wall needs to be the same thickness as your skirting board...you could have problems with doors not staying open and draws sliding shut as wardrobe not vertical to wall.
Thank you for the video, I wanted to know if the wood you used on the wall is mandatory ? Can I fix it directly without the wood ? ( I do have a baseboard as well maybe thinner than the one in this video )
If you want to doit without then you should remove skirting board and attach them without any gap. Depending oil the wall you will need correct wall plugs and screws
Hi Peter Your videos are super helpful! I need to attach the tall Pax wardrobes to a plasterboard wall. Would I use masonry screws for this? M8 or similar? I read that someone mentions using packers as well as the above as the fixings can fail. What would you advise? I don't trust plasterboard fixings, after renovating our house I can see how simple & fragile things can be!
Hi. For plaster board wall you would need to get something like this amzn.to/3VyDZId and attach with them small pieces of wood (same as in the video) with these special wall plugs for plasterboard also you need the setting tool included with wall plugs. After you attach wardrobe to the wooden pieces not directly to the wall also make sure wardrobe is straight with the wall or leaning towards the wall before attaching.
Hi, thanks for the tutorial, excellent and easy to understand. Just wanted to ask if I do the same thing if I have skirting as well as picture rail. Also my wall is stud wall, please can you advise me. Thanks in advance.
I am installing this in my garage and the wall is the usual board and not drywall. What screws, washers and anchors do you suggest? This is a great video by the way.
Oh that’s really cool! What do they look like? I’ve ordered mine and will be delivered in a few wks(my preference) and trying to figure out via online manual, but they haven’t updated them and it’s still the old style 😔
very inspiring, just complicated and stiff, check this one 1) mount and join cabinets, tick the screw places on the wall 2) measure wall distance from each bracket -- BECAUSE, they could each one be different 3) detache the cabinet and make holes in the wall, push plugs into 4) have already prepared at home, some wooden squares, 2 inches side, different heights --- the squares have a hole inside: actually they are thickness nuts OK? 6) put as many nuts around the screw, so each thickness fills a specific gap (see #2) 7) screw in, just not that much 8) push cabinet onto the wall, and match the screws into the brackets 9) tighten and serve hot So the secret is having those thickness nuts already with you then. Working to find a faster system to avoid detaching the cabinet each time, still no better idea. Being suggested about L-brackets (see Ikea Billy), I think it is excellent, but for really large gaps. Still prefer to use this method. Just asking, why shouldn't Pax have the same gap-filling screws of Besta and Platsa. Best luck
I had this same issue, however I wanted to figure out another way I can anchor the wardrobe to the wall without drilling wood against the wall to secure the screws and close the gap. I got a longer and tad thicker screw that would close the gap and still reach the plastic anchor in the wall. I find that this is less minimal work and more hidden from the side without compromising the strength of the anchor from the wardrobe to the wall
My units are assembled. Logistics prevented me from having them lashed to each other and the wall before adding all the drawers rods and shelves. Am I too late? Is it still possible to have them clamped together and attached to the wall?
Love your videos!...i actually have skirting on one side and then another side is the radiant heater unit!.. But I wish you could do one like this with an actual corner unit! I'm building a 5 unit PAX with right facing corner unit. I don't understand what the black piece that they want you to attach to the the frame that the corner unit intersects with is for. In the instructions it seems like they don't want the black piece to touch the wall, instead they want 4" of space, but that's impossible without having the black piece touch the wall. I keep getting 5"! Help! Or is this not a big deal?? Also, with having so many frames should I still join them all together first then move the whole piece or join them in pieces et. Join 3 on long wall then affix to wall then join corner unit and other unit to the others??
Just done this myself. I don’t think the black plastic piece is that important, it’s certainly nothing structural and my guess is that it is just to stop things falling down the gap in the corner between the two wardrobe sections. Mine fell off when I was maneuvering the two parts into a tight corner and so I left it off.
I wish I saw this video before fitting the wardrobe. I’ve got a thick skirting board in my newly renovated house and after finishing the fitting of the wardrobe tried adjusting it a bit and the entire thing pulled itself out from the wall, plugs included. Any advice on how I could fix it with minimum drilling?
Just a thought on similar problems to this one......... Pax was fixed to the wall straight into wall plugs without any wood spacers and have pulled out. Remove screws and slide some skirting board thick section of wood VERTICALLY down behind Pax to the fixing lug. Leave enough showing above Pax to allow you to drill, plug and screw wood into wall. Secure Pax with screw through fixing lug into the wood. Repeat above for each individual securing point.
Nicely done I was looking for a video like that cause i have this problem, and they come with doors so when you open the door they like about to fall 🤷🏽♀️
Hello, I noticed your reply on this comment. I have two pax frames with hinged doors on each (total of 4 doors), if we follow your directions from this video is it likely to fall? Or is anchoring enough to sustain the wardrobe and 4 doors?
Anchoring is a must for these tall types of furniture and IKEA have warnings about it on every instruction sheet. There have been deaths caused by unsecured furniture falling on children..........
PAX wardrobes have adjustable legs at the front to make sure that you can level the wardrobe and/or distribute the load front to back. You do not want the front/back/side touching the floor only. The load should be evenly distributed. You may think all floors/walls are square, but they are often not even on new builds. Also floors can be uneven so you want to take up any gaps.
Thank you Peter for sharing your experience via videos! May I kindly ask for your opinion on the option I am contemplating about. I consider attaching a 236x100x35 cm PAX wardrobe to a wall, where I have a wooden skirting board (1 cm thick; 6cm high). Instead of cutting the skirting board or putting "buffering" (pieces of wood in your example), why can't I just cut the bottom of each side panel (~1 cm deep and ~6 cm high), then slide the wardrobe towards the wall and finally attach it? To me, such cutting should not materially affect the rigidity of the wardrobe's construction + since the wardrobe will be installed in a dry closet, there should be no moisture getting into the (untreated) cutting areas at the bottom of the side panels. Thank you in advance for your reply.
Sound like a headache but I would rather cut off the exact amount of skirting board and slide wardrobe between instead of cutting wardrobe. If you decide to cut just make sure the skirting board is not taller than the bottom dividing panel otherwise you have to cut not just side panels at the bottom backside but the bottom dividing panel two. Another thing thickness of the skirting board can come across screws connecting side panels with bottom dividing panels not mentioning cutting have to be a straight line and depending on the saw you will use these materials easy to chip and can create zigzag as you cut. Asi mentioned too much hassle.
I have to fix a Pax wardrobe frame to a brick wall which has concrete instead of plaster. I know that on the other side of the wall is electric light wires. Could you tell me what Brand of detector you used to detect the wires, and would it be suitable the kind of wall I described. Regards.
You can check one I use in my amazon store (link in description) must say is not 100% and I'm also looking for new one there is later and cheaper model also from BOSCH mixed reviews hard to find something reliable in this area. Will be still looking if you see a new one in my latest videos I found one :)
I've done a similar thing with an Ikea kallax unit. I covered the gap with a strip of white PVC, stuck on with silicone. It has a flat profile against the wall and a rounded profile at the front, e.g. www.amazon.co.uk/Window-Door-Architrave-Plastic-White/dp/B00KRJK3JM. You can cut the plastic around the profile of the skirting with a jigsaw or coping saw. I also used off-cuts of skirting board as the packing, so it was the same thickness.
I screwed and plugged a 4x2 into my brick wall and connected my two 100cm Pax into that. Choice is to scribe some wood to fill the gap perfectly which may involve extra filling and painting. Or use some strips of painted finished wood or MDF wide enough to overlap and cover the gap. Pin or glue to fit to the side of the wardrobe or glue a one cm square strip behind the wide strip and glue it to the back of the wardrobe. Why did I do it like that........... I have huge two inch deep Victorian skirting boards which I'd rather not cut out as it then opens a whole can of worms especially with some lathe and plaster walls. The next owners will probably thank me for leaving them in situ.
Absolutely fine......... Until someone opens both doors, stands up on the edge of the base to reach up high and it falls forward. Children have been crushed by toppling furniture and Ikea have warnings about it in their literature. If it's not secured, then make sure you keep heavy items on the bottom to limit movement as a top heavy wardrobe will eventually come down.
How much do you charge for these PAX installations? I just did mine myself and would much rather pay a skilled installer such as yourself if I ever have to do it again.
That depending on what kind of wall you have. Here I did with the Ikea wall plugs they have them in the store and I have here brick wall if I remember correctly. If you have plasterboard there is special wall plugs for that.
Absolutely......... Just so long as you have studs to secure your 2000mm length of wood into, thereby allowing the Pax to be secured straight onto it. The above scenario involved a brick wall which would require drilling and plugging the 2000mm wood to the wall before securing the Pax onto it. Lack of a long length of wood makes smaller sections viable, that's why it's called DIY. Other options are to remove the skirting completely and drill, plug and secure directly to brick wall.
Thanks for your Infos! I need to install and old cabinet that is very heavy and I want some of the weight to go into the wall instead onto the floor. Is this method good for my use to?
Hello, thank you for the video. I didnt understand something: you dia a hole for the main screw (the one that comes from the inside of the wardrobe) or you just fix it to the wooden plate, that is atttached to the wall? Thank you
The main screw will go into the wall, right? because it is longer than the thickness of the wooden plate. So woudnt you need to put a plug for the main screw?so the screw wont go directly to the wall? Thank you
Which option would be better - removing the carpet grippers where the wardrobe sits (to stop it tilting forwards due to it sitting on them), or just placing a slab of MDF where the adjustable feet will go?
i just leant the wardrobe against the wall very slightly because of the skirting board and secured it with screws and the wardrobe tilt is barely noticeable. is this actually safe and can the four screws i used and the wall take the weight of the wardrobe and prevent it from falling over?
@@brad1ey50 So, plaster walls are fairly tricky to fix anything securely to them if you use the wrong fixings, you may have seen photos online of people's new tv's in a heap on the floor after the wall fixings failed?! There are a few different options of plasterboard fixings available that would most likely be ok for holding a wardrobe to a wall but I would just be wary of putting them through too much stress, for example standing on the base to reach up and store things etc. If it really isn't much of a tilt then you should be fine, think of plasterboard like thick paper and if there's too much movement then it may tear/break. The best, most secure option I would recommend if you're at all worried is to find where the studs are and work out a way to attach the wardrobe to them, angle brackets fixed to the top work well. If, like some of my walls, there is brickwork behind the plasterboard simply drill into the brick and use longer screws with plasterboard specific fixings. Hopefully this helps
I'm doing the same thing with my wardrobe, but my wall scanner has pick up electric signal and metal, so scared to drill, can I used something like 'no more nail adhesive to attach the wood to the wall?
there is no real need to put a screw for each hole, and I don't think you get a warning for all - since it is just a safety measure (and not a "wall hanging") you may only use the free ones, provided they are stronger enough (larger plug, larger screw); - or also check for the wall behind the ceiling surface to be iron-free (which means nothing actually, since you may still have plastic hoses and electric cables), in this case you may install a L-shaped bracket on it rather than using the provided system. I personally am skeptical for a glue to hold a critic weight, because what you are really sticking onto, is but a layer of wall painting or plaster: just not trustable, use plugs instead.
How. Do I remove the bracket that is inside. The. Closet but I. Think attached to wall. It’s just a white plate with no screws which I figure is just a cover. If so does it pop out? Appreciate advice, thanks. I’m moving from an apartment and like to take it with me.
Only you Dan answer that question. Ikea furniture kills several children every year due to them toppling on them. I always secure my furniture to the wall.
Once you’ve decided you’ll have your wardrobe 2cm away from the wall nothing really matters anymore. Having the gap is really ugly. In short: cut the skirting and make it flush with the wall.
There’s nothing you can do to cover the gap without cutting so part of the bottom to fit ur skirting. Else you want to fill the back with wooden board following the size you need
Don't slide joined wardrobes on the carpet. You have to do that one by one once you drill the wall and have everything ready can join the frames and after attach to the wall.
Many people don’t want to remove skirting board and that why you can see here how is done. And yes it is easier to do it without if you have solid wall.
The wardrobe is not going anywhere when positioned. Make mark through fixing point into wall. Cover each mark with wooden square and secure to wall with plugs. Or use long length of wood to cover marks and secure to wall with plugs. Secure wardrobe to wood. Simple.........
Can you use this technique for Metod High Cabinets and Wall Units? I'm trying to not cut out my skirting boards when I'm putting up new cabinets in the garage
