Just purchased an '87 Samurai (unmolested) for my farm. I don't expect to be crawling over rocks or racing across the desert - but wanted something I could drive on the road up to the farm and then use it to start reclaiming the farm (essentially on the side of a hill along the KY River with old logging roads cut into it). I saw this video and like the idea of going up to a 16" wheel and thinking about installing a Rocky-Road YJ under axle lift kit (this is a YJ bolt-on kit as I am not a welder but figure I may have to learn). I am waiting to see what you do on the teal/black daily driver you are building for yourself as you were talking about using the 235/85R16 tires with only a 3-4" lift - I will be curious if you run into any issues. Hope that works as this may become my plan then as well. I have never heard people say good things about using spacers between the hubs and the wheels - but seems pretty common regarding what I am reading about as pertaining to the Samurais. I have really enjoyed watching your Samurai videos as they are giving me some ideas - only wish I had your skill and experience.... Jeep up the great work!
@@lorenkloft836 thank you for watching and the kind words. Unfortunately the black samurai is on the back burner for a bit since I got the tin top, but the 235/85s are still my plan. I like skinny tires on light rigs. I haven’t heard the best things about rocky road, but do your own research. Trail Tough has always done me right. Enjoy the Samurai! They are super fun rigs.
@@ultra4suzukisamurai679 From what I have been gathering, the missing link shackles may not be "nice" for highway driving - again, I am new to this. I spent some time today researching lockers and spools(?) - not sure I understand the difference(s) yet - but sounds like the lockers can be "iffy" on the road until "you get used to them"? I like the idea of the lockers as the hill sides on my farm are pretty steep. Someone had welded the rear axles together in the first Samurai I looked at and I could feel it while turning on the pavement and hear it "jerking" while turning on gravel - and didn't feel it would last very long driving on pavement. I foresee this Samurai spending quite a bit of time on the road as well - so I want it to be safe and useable on both pavement and dirt roads and trails. There is a lot of information out there and takes time to go through it - just hoping to gain from the experience of others so I am not wasting time, money, or effort building my rig (in the wrong way) to what I want it to be able to do. I have already started thinking that I might need another one that can simply be dedicated to the farm. I came across one of the pickup models down here but wasn't sure I wanted to put that much $$ into something that might get slid into a tree up on the farm. Thanks again for taking the time in order to make the videos and educating us newbies...
@@lorenkloft836 mechanical automatic lockers: lock right, sparten, etc are great in the dirt but pretty annoying on the street. They will let the outside tire spin faster in a turn but there is a lot of slack in their operation so they feel very clunky. A spool is the same as the welded differential. If you want it nice on the street I highly recommend air or electric selectable lockers. When turned off they are just a standard open differential, when on they are a spool. More money but worth it for sure. I have a deal set up with TRE3X4USA for 10 percent off. Code ‘ultra4samurai’. I run their electric lockers and love them. Before that I had lock rights. Great off road but terrible on the street. Another option, as expensive as the electric lockers is a limited slip from Kaaz. If you put a locker in the front it’s a must to upgrade to heavy duty 26 spline axle shafts. Stock are 22 and break easy with lockers, but hold up very well with out a locker. A Sammy with a rear locker only is night and day more capable than stock. The front locker adds a lot of cost due to the axle shafts and power steering becomes a must as well.
@@joshuatoral5105 We might not be the only ones using a Samurai for tasks like this. My F-150 is simply too long and big to navigate the hillsides and narrow trails that were cut into the hillsides decades ago. The cost/capability decision between the Samurai and a JD Gator or UTV didn't take much thought. The Sammy is street legal so I can drive it up to and back from the farm (~40 miles each way), it should handle the terrain as well as a Gator/UTV (and perhaps be even more capable). My wife and I are nearing retirement, and I am thinking this is small enough that I can tow it on certain trips that might be fun, useful, or simply come in handy. Unsure yet - but my wife told me I looked "adorable" when I shared this idea with her. I was surprised how many people talked to me about it at the gas stops when I was hauling it home on the trailer. I may need "help" as I am thinking I may need to be on the lookout for another one... This one I simply want a capable rig that can run on the streets and take the hills out on the farm.
pays to watch to the ! was going to ask what was in them for a shim stack haha. I really like the shock mounts you built on the uppers. Rattle free is not something I can call my sami, maybe one day. that tire size is kick ass.
@@mathewsren9712 it’s a hard question to answer, spoa for 31s won’t take much arch. I would take a measurement of your Sammy now then jack it up until it sits how you want it and measure again. The difference would be how much more arch you need in the springs.
@@ultra4suzukisamurai679 i also installed these rims to my suzuki sj 410 1 litre engine with 215/70r16 for on road use. These rims are 16inch with et +5
Hi. I was literally looking online for a samurai, and your video showed up. I have a question about the year models. I really would like to buy one as stock and keep it that way. What year model would you recommend? I think 91 to 93 convertible cuz of the updated engine and the rear seats.
I would be worried about the fuel injected models. As time goes on parts will be harder and harder to get. The fuel injected models will be harder to keep running. The carbed engines are very simple and when boiled down to the basics it is very easy to make one run.
