there's alot of haters on here... there are 2 kinds of mechanics in the world that are useful the ones that will work with the high end stuff and are school taught that use math and science for every question & problem & can build you a rocket then there is your farm style mcgiver mechanic a resourceful guy that can work on anything anywhere at anytime like this guy here.. he is making due with what he gots the type of guy that wont be sidelined on a big weekend over some b.s. engine part a small autozone and a cheap non off brand tool set with missing tools and he good to go ....i grew up with both these mechanics in my life my grandfather was a master tech that got started in the pan american races in the 50's in mexico and my father that was a Jack of all trades that could take 2 busted old cars and make a runner.. both fed me knowledge both had there style that help shape mine ....if it work then it works ....GREAT JOB MA BOY!! FIRE IT UP ITS BOATING TIME 😎😉
Steel fuel line? Should be copper/nickel alloy OR the newer marine type A1 hose over the engine. Copper, copper/nickle or A1 hose for the rest of the boat, NOT steel. Fuel pumps must be marine type AND mounted on a bracket on or within 12" of the engine. Filters must be mounted and can not have plastic, glass or Pyrex for housing or bowl components on gasoline inboards. Electric fuel pumps must have some type of safety interlock in the event the engine quits the pump must also stop. Usually wired to a oil pressure switch and may also be connected the start side of the ignition switch to help prime the system quicker (time out cuircuit recommended). Crimp connect wires and over cover with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing is best. Please be safe all.
I had problems with the oil switch and changed it five years ago. I had the same problem of easy start then dying ten seconds later changed the switch and this time no difference. Any suggestions?
Although this guy is tremendously resourceful, his solution has issues...the silicone as sealer will breakdown overtime by the gasoline... so there's a danger of leak there... boat catch fire!
WOW do you know what shrink tubing is, nice blue tape by the way. Plus why dont you put the pump between the fuel water separator and your carb and get rid of the 500 connections between the tank and the pump. all you have there is a recipe for disaster.
Notice,.. when adding am electric pump,.. you will need an oil pressure switch for running,.. and a jumper switch for cold starts,.. watch for flooding when you lite it up at first,.. stuff in the lines or any dirt,.. may cause flooding,.. if ithe carb is girgling over,.. rap on the carb,. if your lucky it will clear. .. it worked for me,.. if initial flooding continues,.. you'll have to tear down the carb. Best off to blow down all parts,.. before installing.... and change oil..
I'm not sure if your on here still out not old thread but I have an electric oil switch and when I turn the key the boat fires up but dies a few seconds later. I put a new oil switch in same problem. Any input would be great thanks
Cobbled fuel systems in an enclosed area equals ???? Getting it running makes it a mobile weapon. What happens when that lites off at the fuel dock. Spend the money to do it right or park it til you can afford to. I’ve seen exploded boats your life or your neighbors kids lives who wanted a boat ride are worth it.
Oil Pressure switch is Legally required and Critical to prevent Fire, because if fuel lines break fuel will pump all over the engine, Oil Pressure switch will stop fuel pump if engine stops. Use real brackets not tape for fuel pump again for safety. I don't agree about fuel pump in-between fuel /water separator and carb because fuel pumps push well but don't pull well. Also, fuel pumps need filter in front (pump can pull fuel through filter but not water separator). Last, but not least, use crimping wire connectors, not solder. I like solid metal fuel lines over the engine. Oops, Oh Yeah, use marine electric fuel pump not auto. Shop and you can get the marine pump for a good price. Many people are killed and maimed by boat fires, do get sloppy when it comes to fuel.
Im putting an electric fuel pump on my boat in hopes it will help with the vapor locking issue I seem to be having. Not wasting my time with an oil pressure switch, when the key is in the run position, it will be on. Simple as that. Besides, oil pressure switch would be a huge PITA if you ever had to start with a dry carb for any reason. Now you cant even get fuel to the carb at all until the engine starts up, but how do you get it to fire up with no fuel? Now you need to mess around with jumpering out the switch or dumping fuel into the carb manually. No thanks!
I did this same thing. I have 7psi from my FP and the gas just keeps comming out of the top of carburetor.it just runs right out.had my carburetor rebuild buy a rebuilder and the same thing.4 barrels 260 hp Merck is 7 psi to high??
I wired my FP like that with the oil switch.it has 7 psi and floods out of the top of my carb!!Is 7 psi to much?then I had a rebuilder do the hole carb 300$$and it still dose it.he said the float is ajust to spec.what can I do??anyone have this problem??
crack pipe lighter and some pipe solder and ur ready to go like hunter biden...haha, just kidding. Seriously so that line coming off the mechanical pump line coming off the top of the pump is for simply seeing if your fuel pump diaphragm is leaking externally? Happy boating friend!