TOOL HOLDER: Erickson Standard Hydraulic Chuck Holder w/ Kennametal Hydraulic Chuck Reducer Sleeve. No Torque Wrench Required because it Bottoms Out when Tightening. PS. Runout on the exit was less than .002 PSS. I programmed 1 set of holes and then just ran 3 times for the video. At first I was just going to do one hole... but thought I would add a few more just to show you the consistency. Drill Info: 1. SGL short drills (online catalog and F&S data): www.kennametal.com/en/products/20478624/556249/3924453/7813126/7800158.html 2. SGL deep-hole drills (online catalog and F&S data): www.kennametal.com/en/products/20478624/556249/3924453/7824523.html
Hello Titan. We have tested this drill dia. 12mm 25xD in 1.4301with Erickson hydraulic chuck vc 45m feed 0,11mm/rev 20 bar coolant pressure and the point of the drill got chipped after first hole. It was predrilled with KMT KU drill as recommended to 3xD and the procedure/ programming by entering the bore was correct. Clamping of the workpiece was similar to yours. Any idea for the cure?
@@ivanvarcek2814 the problem with stainless is that at work hardens. So if your drill is spinning higher RPM more than its feed you will get work hardening and it will become impossible for the drill to cut and it will break. So you have to have a higher feed and a slower RPM through all parts of the operation. Titan is also making sure to blow out the chips with the coolant before the long drill starts cutting
I like how you are putting in a Metric conversion of your speeds now, I no longer have to do an automatic conversion from Imp to Met which is handy. This drill may be useful for our company as we have just got a Mazak i400 Intergrex which is probably going to a fair bit of deep hole drilling. Thanks for the video Titan.
I love that sound when the drill winds up and starts making chips. We use this kind of drilling for waterlines with the molds we make. We drill into aluminum so we wind that sucker up and just plow through the material. Takes less than 10 seconds to drill a hole 11 inches deep.
Tyson nice stuff I have done many many deep holes with another brand . 2 important things really need to drive home a) Coolant 100 % important and pressure in the early days Y2002 chip removal and coollant type major factor on horizontal machine. Causing breakage in TI switched to Vasco 1000 no breakage better flow no heat at tip or traped chips also program slight dwell allowing HP Pump to kick in b) Tool change if have option for tool type during tool change make sure you use heavy tool option on smaller tools 3mm and below in some cases on horizontal machines the force of tool change can cause tool breakage. That said hope helps some nebees enjoy.
Hi there, I'm pondering if I should do something like this on my Bridgeport or if I should send it to a shop that has coolant thru capabilities, can you share your experience on a manual machine?
Hey Titan, I'm in the automotive plastic injection tool industry. Sometimes we get situations where we're roughing or finishing oddly shaped lifters and slides that are decent size. A lot of videos showcase very small shapes or low complexity operations. I'm wondering if you could make a video showcasing a longer style rougher and/or finishing cutter on P20 steel. Some new tech getting hard to reach areas with accuracy and efficiency. Thanks!
Edit: just saw the updated pinned post referencing .002 run-out at exit. Original question: What is the lateral deviation from start position to exit hole? Is it truly 'perfect'? Or under a tenth? I've always had trouble with small amounts of wander but these drills look wicked cool. Even if you're a tenth off over 12 inches that's well within what I'd need. Checked the link you provided and while expensive, I think these drills look to be the ticket. Thanks for another awesome vid.
Hi Titan, did you measure the positional off-center error of the outgoing hole? Which minimum error can I specify on the drawing, without driving you nuts?
@@gt40f If you think about what happens to a drill in slow motion, what run out does to it is it makes it bend "in all directions*. The effects primarily mean two things: 1) Increased size of the hole. In simple terms an increase in run out distance equals an increase in hole radius (or 2x increase in diameter). 2) Increased wear of the drill as it constantly hits against the wall. I don't recall the exact amount (you can reference it from the Sandvik E-Learning course on drilling) but something like 0.01mm of run out generally means half the tool life. Off center error, however, is something different entirely. The hole might be the right size, but it's not in the exact spot you want it. Run out of a drill might contribute to a hole being out of tolerance, but the off center error can be caused by other factors. Anyway, I hope this helps a bit. I haven't machined for super long so I could be wrong, so I encourage anyone to contribute with empirical evidence and theoretical information. Cheers! P.D. Maybe we can get Titan to opine on the matter. He's the real expert here.
Well, that was new to me! The way they move into the pilot makes soooooooo much sense! I´m gun drilling plasctics on my haas lathes and i think, this video gave me a proper way for straight borings anyway! Thanks for that! :)
Perforar agujeros de diámetro pequeño a gran profundidad, es simplemente una pesadilla. RPM y dureza del material,. Encontrar el punto preciso dónde no se rompa la broca es todo un reto..... Wow.
I'd like to see a video on feeds and speeds. I'm new to machining and my biggest problem is finding out the fastest my mill can cut mild steel with a max spindle speed of 2500 rpm. So many variables, material, type of tool, number of flutes, rigidity, spindle speed, motor hp. Etc...
According to the screen, the IPR for the long drill is actually still .003 inches, because BOTH feed and spindle speed are now at 10% those of the pilot drill. Thanks for making these awesome and inspiring videos. Also I’m curious about if there is a way to turn off side coolant and turn on through coolant during the drill cycle, or if it was done manually.
@@jonathanpowell4627 Ah! I was wondering how they did that. I was thinking "Holy Fuck that'd be an insane hole to drill through that bit safely!" Lol So you're saying they actually take bar stock with the hole already in it, THEN create the flutes and etc around it. Got it. :)
@@jonathanpowell4627 What do you mean "extruded"? How are they created? They have to be drilled as well right? Maybe from both ends? Or they'd need a 100x diametre drill.
Can you do a similar videos on micro drilling? I often have to do .025"-.032" holes in 316 to a depth of over 15 times the diameter. I've had trouble getting reliable feeds and speeds and end up breaking bits off in the hole. As a result I started doing that feature on my micro drill press by hand. Good video. Please keep it up.
Some very interesting techniques your company makes use of, brilliant work there too! I'm trying to learn more CNC and never fail to find more to see. Subscribed 👍
Hi Titan, your videos are very helpful, is there any chance you could do a video for machining duplex and super duplex like you have for inconel, hastalloy, monel etc?
I always heard the tip angle of the pilot needs to be exactly the same as the deep hole drill. Your explanation makes sense though, it makes the drill ease into the cut more. Great video Titan!
I use GUHRING 40 and 45xd drills in 6.3mm dia in the OEM automotive mfg field. I've made some improvements on the typical deep hole drilling cycle for increased efficiency. CODE BELOW. I also don't engage nearly as deep OR as slow. I drill over ONE QUARTER MILE of material with drills like these before sending out for resharpening at the manufacturer. .400" of pilot depth .300" of drill engagement, enter piloted hole at 20 IPM/400 RPM and don't turn the 1100 psi TSC off when entering or exiting holes since it does not affect how the drill enters the pilot hole at all. Using regofix holders I have a few tenths of runout at 12 inches of length on my Okuma M560V's. I feed and retract in G1 to prevent the momentary Z axis stop at the bottom of BLIND holes which causes extreme edge wear as the tool unloads and "whips" but there is one thing that really improved efficiency: (in G1 mode) I program so the machine feeds down to hole bottom, once at hole bottom I command the machine to feed up to the -.300" pilot engagement point WHILE SIMULTANEOUSLY slowing the spindle down without looking for spindle speed verification before moving to the next block- this makes it decelerate at hole bottom, then re-accelerate into retraction while simultaneously slowing the spindle so the drill doesn't whip around at hole bottom as it's unloading from Z force and slowing down in RPM. Once it reaches the engagement point I have it verify that the spindle RPM's are back down to 400 before pulling out of the hole which usually does not require the Z axis to stop moving except on shorter holes so movement is very smooth throughout the whole cycle. Not every controller is capable of such fine tuning but I was able to set this all up in my custom post processor. Those small tweaks shaved seconds off of cycle times and increased tool life significantly comparing to just G00 rapiding out after slowing the spindle down at hole bottom. Some materials may warrant edge radius modifications to the drills, such as cast iron* (high perlite content) and other gritty cast materials. Special drills with edge radius DOUBLED my tool life in cast iron. CODE for reference for any okuma guys: N8 (HOLDER - 3.15" REGOFIX PG15) (OPERATION NO - 2) T8 M366 A-78. C278. (6513 SERIES 9.133 FL) G00 G15 H5 G90 M309 M301 TLFON (ACTIVATE TOOL COUNT) M08 M301 M51 M301 G00 G17 G90 G94 S400 M03 M300 G56 HA X-.06111 Y-10.7876 T27 G01 Z4.89894 F1250 S400 Z4.49894 F20. S4700 Z2.23894 F35. Z4.49894 F1250 S400 M300 Z10.95153 S400 G00 X-1.23852 Y-11.34979 A-90. C270. G01 Z7.54637 F1250 Z7.14637 F20. S4700 Z.64637 F35. Z7.14637 F1250 S400 M300 Z10.0713 S400 G00 X1.23852 Y-11.34979 A-90. C90. G01 Z6.04733 F1250 Z5.64733 F20. S4700 Z-.85267 F35. Z5.64733 F1250 S400 M300 Z7.04733 S400 G00 M09 M301 M05 (SPINDLE STOP) TLCO Q16 (SUBTR. FROM TOOL LIFE) TLFOFF (TOOL COUNT OFF) G118 (BREAKAGE DETECTION CYCLE) M310 M301 (OPEN ATC DOOR, IGNORE M CODE ANSWER) G53 G16 H0 X=VHPPX[1] Z=VHPPZ[1] M19 M300 (CANCEL TOOL HEIGHT, WCS 0, VECTOR TO TOOL CHANGE POS., ORIENT SPINDLE, M CODE LISTEN) G30 P1 M01
EDM = electric discharge machine; uses electric current flowing through a tool bit to remove metal from the work piece. Good for cutting complex shapes as the removed metal takes the shape of the bit.
Titan I have a request on behalf of whoever having the same query Can you make a video for that. Materials range and code description for tooling Tools flute helix angle relate to machining part material?
Google Sandvik E Learning, do the course and it teaches about workpiece and tool material grades along with a bunch of stuff. Then do the course on academy.titansofcnc.com and you'll be one happy machinist :)
Thank you for a response, and I appreciate you time and all you do. I am going through your curriculum with 16yo son. I Have been programming and operating for 15 years. I pick up something from every video and lesson. Learned manual machining 20 years ago while serving 2 years. 4 months ago my leg was run over in a parking lot. I am almost able to walk again and get back to my smaller manual and CNC machines in garage. I was in process of purchasing Haas tool room lathe and mill when hit. Down payment and credit is now gone. I had a 5 year goal to have aerospace milspec job shop. Offering high school kids apprenticeships. I'll be back to where I need to be in a year or 2 maybe less financially. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is in a similar situation. You do more than anyone else in the field I have seen to promote the industry, I know you give A LOT already. IDK maybe a show me your shop contest. Sorry for the ramble on. Keep it up.
That’s Awesome! I used Walter Titex and Guhring + for 20 yrs... This SGL is so much better... also, the others has a single drill for everything... Kennametal SGL comes in 3 different types... so the one for Inconel is different than the one for Stainless and blows other drills away when it comes to number of holes drilled.
@@TITANSofCNC Thats's what i figured. Doesn't look like Fusion 360 handles this yet. Maybe we could see a video about the hand coding. It's not hard, but just simply curious how you handled it. Obviously this could be coded, and then feature patterned for multiple holes.
@@greg2337 I program deep holes like that with fusion 360, it all depends on your post processor. You could absolutely set it up to handle this cycle if you wanted to. The easier workaround is just writing a macro and calling it on the locations of the holes.
I've done a similar job in Ti. Hand coded as well. I'm on Siemens controls and the way shopmill handles drilling cycles isn't very compatible with this type of drilling.
According to Novo Kennametal for this drill feedrate is about 10 times bigger and cutting speed as well for stainless. Vc 40 m/min and Vp 127.36 mm/min. Titan Could you explain why did you go down so much?
what if you have to drill throgh a 70 inch long part I suppose that then you will drill for 38 times the diameter (I left 2 for safety) and flip the part or rotate the c axis and drill the rest but my concern is in the break through the non plane surface won't that cause any problem?
Kennametal makes specials beyond 80X deep. Definitely would have to be on a different machine with a greater work envelope and then I would attack it from both ends, meeting in the middle to ensure rigidity and success.
TITANS of CNC: Academy Awesome thanks for the reply. My job has us pick goals for the year and I want to learn more from you and your courses. Thanks again!
tomorrow I will be drilling some 0.12 mm holes on a 24000 rpm spindle mounted on manual milling machine! It's high precision and sensitive...and I have no ideas about the holes I'm going to drill and how to engage!
I haven’t in copper but would definitely think so. Use the Super Alloy version and take a few test cuts to ensure your feed is cutting small chips... etc. I have done it in Monel and that is tougher than copper as it has 33% copper and 60% Nickel
Beautiful! Love it. Viewer request ... you mentioned automotive industry in the video. I would like to see how that industry, maybe uses this 40xD drill to bore drill a crank, and the oil passages in a crank. Maybe the larger crankshafts a for large diesel sea going vessels .... Thanks for sharing and teaching!
Its hard to stress the being careful about chip build up at the top of a hole in stainless enough. I've always wanted to program a macro similar to g83 but for stainless. With smaller machines without the hp the chips get stringy and if the rapid is at 100% you can run into problems with chips at the top of the hole while reentering the material. The only way to fix that is to put rapid at 25% or program a subprogram.
I often go as deep as possible without peck and then pull back just .005 and dwell for a second, this keeps chips away from the cut surface and allows the material to cool etc. then I keep going and repeat. Trick is to have feed to break the chip.
@@TITANSofCNC yeah it's easy to break chips with larger hp machines. Staying in the cut is a rule a great rule of thumb for any operation in stainless.
I faced some problem while drilling HSS drill in STAINLESS STEEL material Chip breaking issues as well drill overheated Vc=20m/min F=0.1mm/rev It really worst case with SS
Had to use a 40x HHS uncoated (all we had in the shop last night that would reach) 9/32 drill in copper today and could only make it 3, 9 inch holes before needing to be reground. Was a long night.......
Btw Titan if you see this is there anyway we can get a video on effective debur technics that will save time and money in smaller shops? If there is already one can I have a link?
I do allot of 42xd or even deeper with normal hss in 304ss and 4140htsr no thew coolant they are .25 drill’s. They go threw 5-10 holes before needing re-grind. It definitely takes a while to get use to those drills. Always keep your door shut when running them, I had one hit the top of the part after retracting and that thing went flying FAST
Thanks for the metric stats !!! Seems like any run-out of the tool holder would be magnified by a tool that long. Do you check it? What tool holder is that?
Erickson Standard Hydraulic Chuck Holder w/ Kennametal Hydraulic Chuck Reducer Sleeve. No Torque Wrench Required because it Bottoms Out when Tightening.