The one thing I have Learned from putting knights together magnetize the weapons and paint the plates separate. It would take just a little bit more time but it makes everything easier and if you do won’t to keep the plates on use blue tack because sometimes people don’t know how much a little bit of glue or what kind to use. Super glue as a dot will work but plastic glue will weld the peace’s together and when pulled apart might damage the model. You don’t won’t to damage something you have payed up to $100 or more so I just recommend the blue tack or paint them separate.
I had an idea. I think it would be neat to see a couple Tyranid gaunts painted in Caucasian fleshtone on their skin, flat matte, with their hard shells painted slightly lighter like the color of finger nail and then with a white edged tip. Finish with a gloss on the shell only. Like the nids absorbed human biomass and wound up looking like them. Maybe even put some blemishes like a mole or freckles or glued on hair fibers in certain areas emulating human organic textures..
Hey buddy, here you go - it ships worldwide from here very reasonably! :) It's fairly unique because it's a deep pure colour, but not strong, which makes it very useful. elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/paints-washes-etc/scale-75/huldra-blue
Iron Within Iron With out Iron Within Iron Without. Hmmm Shadowspear chaos half might see paint this year after all. Could you do a Orange armor for Space Marines for example the Angels of Vigilance.
That looks amazing! If you were to do a death guard daemon engine style model, like foetid bloat drone, would you suggest doing the flesh portion after the drybrushing and weathering?
Awesome video, Artis, thanks! I will be trying this technique on a 1/72 Razor Crest when I get to it. I have trouble drybrushing acrylics as they dry so quickly. Yours seem to be still workable after 20 and 30 minutes. Why is it so? Is it the brand, or the metallic content? I'd love to know!
Hey dude, I can't pin it down specifically, but I don't think it's anything to do with the brand (it doesn't contain retarder, etc). I leave it neat on a primed palette, it's chaos black which is satin, that extends working time... And with the paint not being diluted you haven't increased evaporation speed, neat until used is safer, much like a traditional artist's palette :). The palette itself is impregnated, but the prime is recommended in addition. I now use the XXL redesigned one, it's got more flat space for traditional use, it's on the second page of this link :) store.artis-opus.com/en-de/collections/series-d-drybrushing Any more questions let me know in another comment, not a reply, they get lost :)
3:00 - Asking in a new comment as requested! You dip your brush in a powder here. Upper right corner of the mat. Not sure what that is! (Wait, I watched again. Is that a SPONGE?)
It is! Watch our ultimate guide to drybrushing :). Most popular video on our channel, and also our flawless blends video, they cover the dampening pad, what it is, why we use it, and why Byron invented it :) any questions just let us know!
Hey dude, can you provide a timestamp? We'll help you out. You could just be talking about Vallejo black paint, if it's for the weathering step? Please ask in a new comment, YT isn't good for notifications!
Buy the brushes and texture-palette used in this video here: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing This video has received a lot of love, why do you think? Would you like more metallic-content? Let us know what we should cover next!
I know this is old, but maybe someone here can help out. Whenever I use Munitorum Varnish it COMPLETELY dulls my metallics. As in, they go 100% grey instead of shiny. It looks like the whole model was painted with administratum grey. Am I doing something wrong?
Nope, you're using a 'matte' varnish, of course it's making stuff look less shiny, there's far more matte ones out there, but it's still going to reduce how reflective your mini is. Check out the options from other brands like vallejo, if you want a finish like GW paints they do a Satin, or you coudl go gloss for the mega shine :)
I've been looking at how to add that really aged dull metal for the base of my knights. This is definately something I'm going to use. I've had a lot of luck with basing those mechanical parts in a flat brown so far.
The model's been primed well, and if you basecoat by hand (not with airbrush) it tends to be a bit more durable, I sometimes rub paint off the very feet/tips if I am holding in the same place for an entire mini, but normally catch them at the end. I drop stuff if I wear gloves :D
Honestly bud, it just doesn't matter: You're doing multiple stages, each of which obscures some of the last, you could always note yours down the first time so you have exact replicable steps, if you wanted a way to have an army all exactly the same. Don't want to come off flippant, and understand it's more comfortable for people to follow an exact recipe, if you rock on without one though... You will still smash it, and get an amazing result. Do let us know if you do, in another comment, RU-vid isn't great for notifications on ongoing conversations:).
When I drybrush metallics I find that when handling the model afterwards, metallic specks tend to stick to my fingers and then deposit on other areas, leaving glittering particles all over the place. Very annoying, this tends to happen regardless of paint brand, I even tried specific gel based drybrush paints from Mig. Any ideas on how to solve this? Clear coating is an option, but tends to alter the finish.
I have a very easy option indeed: Dust your miniature after finishing. It is paint that's loose and in the recesses still, normally. Just grab a big soft brush and give it a clean :)
Loved this tutorial as i have all your other dry brush tutorials, i have even ordered a set of your brushes, some paints and accessories, and some 40k miniatures, i am going to try and follow your Space Wolves tutorial as my first attempt at painting anything 😃 what i would like to see would be a dry brush tutorial for white scars as that was what i had first wanted to try but had no clue where to start, keep up the good work 😄
Hi Amazing tutorial, One question: how would you suggest to add color to the shoulder plates (for example Red) and at which stage of your process? Like a contrast paint would do the trick? Thank you!
@@leviatano91 No worries man, always best to ask! We have a few videos on red, check out the vampire one to see how you can use contrasts over metallics :)
I love the colour scheme here, the dark grey metal is exactly what I had in mind for my current project. I’ve ordered my dry brushes & I’m going to give it a go on the armour plates on my Wulfen. Can we substitute similar citadel colours in if we don’t have Vallejo/air?
Hey dude, fantastic, thanks for the support! Of course: The important thing is to pick a 'good' metallic, try and get one with these properties: Bright (we can add black to darken) Strong! (Good coverage) High quality: fine pigments (Some GW feel smoother, less grainy, you want ones like this, retributor armour is a perfect example, you want a silver equivalent)
Did you try it out yet? I'm thinking of giving it a go for my space Mariens... not too sure about the streaking grime tho but absolutely love the dark matte bluish metal look
Touch Dry. That paint is thinners based so it doesn't really dry for quite a long time. You can usually rub it off within a few hours or even longer with a bit of odourless thinners.
I've tried this twice and it's very different from my style of painting. I need to learn how to do it first or ask someone for help. I'd love to demonstrate it😁 Thanks so much and Happy 2021🥳
Hi, very nice video, i can t wait to receive my imperial knight in a few weeks now ! But I have a question, what is the thing on the top right where u put ur brush in ? I m not quite fluent in english, so u might said it but i didn't got it, sorry about that !
Absolutely hyped to try and use this on my Grey Knights (though I'm kinda terrified to paint them, since it's my first time painting minis and they have so many tiny details on them)
I know that the Vallejo metal colors are generally the recommendation from many people in terms of metallics, but honestly I prefer the game air/model air metallics for regular brush painting. They're inexpensive, have a very reflective finish with no graininess like you get from something like the GW metallics, and have awesome coverage. I tried the scalecolor metallics as well, and while those have a nice finish, the coverage isn't nearly as good and they don't go on as smooth as the Vallejo metallics. Definitely liking the technique of overbrushing that you're doing here for basecoating as well, I can't believe I wasn't doing it before, it just saves so much time.
Thanks very much, dude! Agree on all accounts! If you want a proper British-indy metallic recommendation to check out Dark Star paints - they're super interesting and generally exceptional 😊
Was that dry, broken dirt texture part of the base when you printed/bought it, or do you have a technique for creating that yourself? I mostly do dioramas based around hot wheels & die cast star wars ships and have been experimenting with techniques to get that look, but haven't quite nailed it yet. If it's something you did, it'd be dope to see how it's done! Either way, this turned out awesome!
oh i will try this on necrons you bet Edit : wait wait wait wait you can mix the metallic with a non metallic? holy shit i should have gone for this earlier for my proxy necrons!
Just stumbled onto this one. And it made me want to paint all of my knights in that colour scheme. A question though: decals, before or after weathering? I'm tending towards before.
No worries dude, I appreciate that, however the model took very little time, and used no real precision-techniques, so it's not a skill-floor if you don't want it to be!
100% dude, just go softly (not too much paint on your brush, also) - use the largest brush you can get away with, as long as it doesn't cause mess/give you issues accessing the required part of the mini
Hey dude, you absolutely can! NMM is all about the placement of the highlights/shades/midtones, and you can stipple/drybrush that :). Check out our latest video, there's even a contrast slapchop method for gold :)
Awesome as always! I love how your videos are becoming more self aware in terms of the little jokes that go in the videos. One small request (and I know it's been asked before and you've kinda done it already) is an in-depth cleaning video of these brushes
Thanks so much for the support Alex😊We do have a care video but we're also planning to do a more in-depth one in the near future. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YtusgeEr3tM.html
Hey dude, that's our dampening pad. Check out the introduction of our Ultimate Drybrushing tutorial for more info. We use it for adding moisture the brush before, during and after the painting process.😊
@@ArtisOpus sorry, my English is a bit compromise XD lately. I wanted to know what colours scheme should I get a a base? They are too many options and I am lost
Hey dude, it releases moisture before, during and after painting and increases quality. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kxuY2NXeI2M.html
I absolutely love the cool metal look you got! I'm curious, should you use a separate brush for working with metallics? my concern is some of the metallic flakes getting stuck in your bristles and turning all your future projects metallic. kinda like how if you're layering, everyone says you should use a separate water jar to keep the metal flake out of your non-metallic paints.
I should do, but don't always... I clean my brushes as I go (dampening pad, texture-palette) and it makes a really big difference. If you ever see me using a brush with a black dot on the end... They are the ones I reserve for metallics only, I just don't always remember :)
I was totally unaware of this type of painting I have always made model kits I stumbled on your vids during lockdown and I am hooked on it, so many thanks for opening this new challenge too me I am now looking at buying some figures and having a attempt at painting them will follow you with great interest you are a very talented painter and your methods are inspiring
Thanks Ash! It's also nuancing your tones, using varnish and exclusion techniques for weathering, the value of repetition and not obscuring previous layers, and ensuring correct moisture + paint proportions, apart from that you pretty much nailed it ;)
That Armigar Knight turned out well. This could be a colour scheme I might use on my Chaos Knights when I undercoat them sometime this year? The tone on your mini knight is good.
Just found this recently and it is as awesome and inspiring as always, Byron, thank you for this content! 🙏 Could I ask you for tips regarding choice of blue paints to replicate the GW Boxart for House Terryn? 🤞🤓
The streaking step was superfluous and added way too much (drying and rubbing) time to the project. Very similar, or even better effect, could have been achieved with just selective painting. I always show people the same thing with grime and streaking compared to oil paint methods as well. These things they think are "easier" or get a different result just are objectively messier, require extra steps and varnishes, take forever to dry and don't end up looking any different when you know what you are doing with acrylics.
Can this be achieved with Vallejo Metal Colour as well? I have 3 silvers in that range, and I have 3 in the much cheaper Game Colour as well. The Metal Colour is the highest quality metallic colours I have though. The Vallejo air that you've used looks amazing though. I imagine I can get a similar effect with the Metal colour as well. I bought the metal colour as it can be used to make glazes from. I just hope it;s good for this sort of thing as well, as honestly I've bought so many metallics paints now, I'd hate to have to start buying even more. Although I'd only need the one air brush vallejo for this (the metal colour is air brush paint as well though)
Excellent video again Byron. Love the look of this model and wanted to say I spat my tea out with your "I do not enjoy painting wobbly bits" comment. That was a class comment. As always this is an amazingly clear and useful tutorial. Just out of interest. I notice your brushes had a black tip. I guess this is your identification to know which brushes you use for metallic? Is this an accurate assumption? Keep up the great work. Excellent as always and really look forward to your videos every time they release
Hey dude, the UK being *freezing* currently probably helps this, as I don't get sweaty hands, I don't like anything between me and my mini, I'm a bit of a purist in this sense, you can absolutely use gloves, or just occasionally wash hands though, I do in the summer if I get clammy, as that prompts the paint to leave more easily.
@@ArtisOpusHey do I detect you blaming someone else !!! 🤣😇 you can have the best paint job in the world but for me mould lines connections and flashing just irk me something fierce. I did however love the content and learned some new things, and I have tried many metallic styles including polishing certain parts on necrons painted with enamels !
Hey dude, after the job was finished? I tend to use monutorum varnish if I do, but I don't tend to use it unless I have rough processes to follow - like the weathering in this vid
That looks super nice, but I think I would stop quite early on, cover it with hairspray, then a red/brown "primer" then I would slap a paint job over all that with the salt chipping technique because this would be an awesome base for a layered chipping effect! then you can be choosy about weathering and pick out the bare metal bits to add rust effects to that make most sense and leave some shiney bits as recent damage! Damn, you got me thinking again.... Oh yeah, also, have you ever tried streaking effects like where rain has washed some of the grime out from between panels? That might look really good over a scheme like this, and its super easy to do too!
Hey Alberto, they're completely different base products. One is an enamel wash and the other one is an acrylic wash. That's why I use mineral spirits to dilute. This is what gives it its unique properties. 😊
Hey dude, a lot of thin coats of the best silver you can think of, over a solid black prime, a gloss black primer would help even! That silver is just incredible though, just like Retributor Armour is an amazing gold.
