This is part 1 of a two part video where I demonstrate several uses of the test indicator on the Bridgeport mill. Thanks to EDGE TECHNOLOGY for providing the indicator holders. edgetechnologyp...
The bridgeport milling machine is one of the best machines for manufacturing precision parts. I was working for many years when I was young with an equal and when I watch the video I remember those times. Greetings from Spain
This was a great sharing tip Mr. Tubalcain. I watched a few of your videos before finding out that you really are a teacher on the subject! As the say goes “hands can be deceiving!” as “they are faster than the eyes!” 😂😂😂😂 I can only imagine what one day with you in the shop could teach any of us compared to reading books and watching videos or, even worse, years in the classroom! Your knowledge is extensive and you are very humble! Qualities that rarely go together! Thank you for all you do for us!
Thanks for posting this. I was mounting the indicator on the table and running the pointer up and down on the quill. It's close, but with a wide face mill I can see it cutting deeper on one side than the other.
That Edge arm sure is a nice one. I am still using an old Indicol holder on my mill spindle for indicating the head and vice in. As always, started my morning off right with a dose of mrpete!!!!!
Timely info!! I was fly cutting last week, and that shows how well your mill is trammed quite well. Had to re-tram as it was a ways out. Thanks Professor!
A great trip to Squareville on the tram. I really like your way of explaining this. I play this at 1.5X speed and you sound super. Thanks for all your production work. Mel
Hey Mr. Pete, Thanks for all the information and videos. I'm a 68 year old retired engineer that selected electronics as a career 36 years ago while working in a model shop for tuition. Thanks to you, I am learning machining all over again - the right way - LOL! One request, could you do a video on how to sneak a Bridgeport mill into the basement without your wife knowing it? Keep up the great videos :-) h
Now I know there are lever and plunger type indicators (I'd never noticed that before). While looking up examples on-line, I also discovered a new word - 'stiction'. Thanks for these videos Mr Pete, I'm learning new, unexpected, things with each video.
The kind old dude is wrong about the position of the drill in an un-trammed head. The axis of the drill will always be concentric with the spindle bearings. Theoretically the quill travel will always be along the axis of the spindle bearings due to it's O. D. being ground concentric to the quill's spindle bearing bores. The drill or cutter will always travel along the same axis as the quill itself. However, in the case of the drill, it will cause the hole to move off it's intended center location proportionately to the tram error and that location error grows in ratio to the increasing depth of the hole. What was demonstrated in the example lesson by the position he held the drill in would occur if there were no quill, and the knee were being used for drilling. Then you would not only get an ovalled hole, you'd likely get a broken drill.
Yes I can imagine Pete. Just remember the words of Jesus, "You will be hated by ALL men for my namesake". At age 86 (April 5th), I can attest, without equivocation, to those prophetic words. For the more a Christian tries to do what is right; the more the satan-led "haters" bombard and/or harrass us. It will NOT stop in this world as we know it. Be happy that it is this way. For one day there will be no more of this non-sense; fomented by satan dear friend when it comes to us. Woe be those that are not his "sheep".
Mr. Pete, why care what a few naysayers have to say? Do you enjoy doing this? Are your viewers' thankful and positive comments outweighed by such hateful people? I think not, unless you spend a lot of time deleting them. You enjoy this, we enjoy this. I guarantee you something...if I don't like a particular video or playlist, I just don't bother watching it. Unfortunately, far too many people get their jollies by being critical, to them, I say, produce your own videos or go away. Sort of like "put up, or shut up". Lawyers, Pharisees, and Sadducees had plenty of bad to say about a perfect man. Think of how they would speak to people today... Please, just let it go. Water off a duck's back. Keep going, I'm happy.
Great video, as always MR. Pete! Just wanted to warn anyone with smaller mills, that don't have that nice worm gear setup to adjust tilt. When you loosen the head, it will be free to rotate and can get away from you and do some damage to the machine or you. Also, if a new mill is being trammed for the first time, the paint can hold the head from tilting, and when it cracks suddenly and again get away from you. Before the first time I loosened my head, temporarily fastened a wood 2x4 to the motor (which sits on top of the head). the 2x4 was just long enough to go up between two of the rafters of the unfinished garage ceiling. That way it would only rotate 15 deg. either way before the rafter would catch it. Now that I've done it twice, I won't use the 2x4 anymore as I now know how much to loosen (very little) the nuts to be able too tap the head into tram
Hello, I just found this video. I use the same way of measuring but I put a large outer bearing ring flat on the table so don't have worry about the tip of the indicator. The ring is about 12" or 14" in diameter. Works perfect for me. thanks for the nice videos you make!
Another informative and entertaining video. I will be picking up a (new to me) Burke MVN mill this week, and will be performing these actions on the mill after installation. Hope to see you in part two.
Sir, I am eager to watch the part 2 at the theater nearby. Sir, you have inspired me so much that I too have made my Home Shop. You have imbibed in me immense confidence to start professionally a job/shop of a Machinist. Though I was technically bent since my school days but you have ignited the dormant love for machines, being the first Love in Life. The almighty sends personalities like you on earth to open the eyes of wisdom and bring light in our lives. My Best Wishes. Take Care.
Tramming a mill... The beast for beginners... lol In tramming the vise, the only difference with my method in using a parallel in the jaws, I measure on the back of the parallel, then if it's not perfectly parallel then it doesn't matter... ;) Keep on the good teaching... Pierre
Thanks for the video, very informative and educational as always. I use a torque wrench on the head nuts, I think the spec is 40 or 50 lb-ft. Since you have keys under your one vise, you could remove the keys, or possible use cigarette paper or shim stock behind the vise jaw to tweak it in when indicating.
i was doing this today and i was worried about the huge scrapes and scratches on my 30 year old mill. The paper hack is great. i will be doing that from now on.. thanks..
I have learned three things from this video: 1. This setting is called "tram". 2. I can measure this on my mill, and will since I know I am way off and have been fighting this for years. 3. I am easily frustrated because my mill head or table seem to have no adjustment to correct for off tram. On my little Jet mill It really causes noticeable difficulty using an about 6" flycutter. Any suggestions on what to do. I'm thinking loosening the head and trying to slide some shims into it's mount, can't see where. Maybe try and tilt the column or table somehow. I never knew I had such a low frustration tolerance! Thanks, Terry
Tramming the head or how I learned to cuss... When doing this on a Bridgeport type head you need to remember that the indicator is sweeping a Chord of the head pivot point and Not the Diameter. This means that if you sweep one side, then the other, unless you are very close to start with like Lyle, and then split the difference, re-sweeping the indicator will show that the head is still out. The difference will be less than before, but you will have to adjust the head again (and again) until you get the same reading on both sides. This is where having two indicators at once is an advantage... you can set the head square in one shot. The two indicator mount is a good weekend project.
Especially on the nodding adjustment. That took quite a while for me to wrap my head around. Not sure why, but when I drew it out, it made perfect sense. I think the Index mill is easier to tram on the nod, than BP.
I never tramed directly on the table surface. I either used the outer race from an old bearing 200mm or more in diameter or slipped a gage block under the indicator tipster swinging into position. P,us if you have a square* long enough you can check tram by using the two surfaces the quill scale mount to. It won't be zeroed but it will get you closer than the degree markings to start. One thing I never under stood was why Bridgeport never put an alignment hole in for a shear pin on the heads and nod. Or you could put a pin in tighten the head up and pull the pin out. But then you would always have dome bozo leave the pin in.
Did I miss something? Are you not suppose to adjust to half of the error? Because the tilt is change, the other side will change by the same amount, right.
The nodding is the hard part you really should mention that! Simply because the pivot fulcrum isn’t equal so if your off you don’t split it in half. It’s more like 3 to 1 to be even.
My first tramming experience... My Grizzly G8689 mini-mill, using a Mitutoyo indicator from work, I kept having issues keeping "0" when swung around.😕 After multiple attempts I finally discovered the case screws on the indicator were loose!😜 I was doing it correctly, and got it set in only a few tries. Trust your tools, but, verify!😉😀😎
Yep... I first thought it might be holder stickout, rigidity, or inexperience. Keith Rucker would appreciate my using an antique spanner to tighten the column nut... The only wrench I had large enough.😏😎
I had to do this my first day in the shop with a short explanation and no help. The challenge was to get it to 5 tenths or better. I spent half a day screwing around with it until the forman showed a little mercy and showed me a few tricks and secrets. That was over 20 years ago.
In oder to get a visual of the high and low spots when stoning, should the surface of the table or vice jaws first be marked with dykem, or would that clog up the stone?
There's another way of truing a vise with table keys. Assuming both keys are tight and the head is perfectly trammed, remove the fixed jaw and machine the cast surface true with a long end mill. Replace the jaw and check for zero accuracy full length.
Hello Mr. Pete - been watching for many years now - GREAT! Quick unrelated question...... I only have a Drill Press and need to drill a flat bottom hole in Aluminum. Can I use one of the End Mills that I happen to have?? Hole to be 1/4" deep and 3/4" in Dia.
Yes, I do it from time to time. But you must pre-drill a hole, and then only use the end mill to square of the bottom. Hold the work securely in a vice. It can get away from you, and scare the heck out of you.
I don't have an indicator that i can sweep with but I do have an indicator that is installed into a tool holder. Can I simply move the table to make the same checks or will that introduce a level of error since the table would be moving?
@@mrpete222 ok I will have to buy a setup like you have in that case. What would the indicator in the tool holder be used for? Sorry if this sounds like a stupid question but I just inherited this machine and I know next to nothing.
Interapid .0005 indicator and a Indicol holder that clamps to the spindle, could do anything on the mill, used these two things for 45 years, this is all i needed, Starrett last word indicators are junk
I bought these and when I went to tighten them up non of my Allen wrenches would fit. Metric or American. what's with this company. maybe they should include a wrench if they are going to be a odd size.
5 yrs go- dissapointment , bought a quill holder suppose to fit all no sir. I do not have a bridgeport I have a 10 x 52 Cincinnati. So my quill is 2 inch fatter than a bridgeport can't teach an old dog new tricks true true.........................................................................
Remember the irony in Back To The Future when Marty says "All the best stuff comes from Japan"? Someday the same will be true about China. Where your iPhone comes from. Might be sad but it's been happening since the start of the industrial revolution.
Not everything that has been made in China over the years has been bad, just like not everything made in Japan has always been good. I have a 1/2 Ton Chain block in my workshop I bought secondhand at a yard sale over 40 years ago and it had been well used then. I looked at the label on it the other day & it reads "Made in China". I have used this chain block many time to swap out old cast iron V8 engines without an issue.
