In addition to the description it works because of the difference in contraction rates after heating caused by the corrosion acting like an insulator for heat penetrating the housing...that difference cracks the corrosive bond.
Yes, the purpose of getting it glowing is to show how fast and hot this smaller system can heat these areas. Heating it to glow is for demonstration purposes. It is also very controllable and turning off the heat is instantaneous.
Was that a stud with a nut or a bolt with stud coming out of the top of the bolt head? IF it was a stud, would you remove the head and then use the heater on the stud close to the block deck? - or still heat the block?
Great tool! I must admit though I will have to wait until I win the Lottery before I can afford the $15,000 US to buy one. I will just have to battle away with the Oxy for now. John, Australia. PS It will be closer to 20K by the time it gets here and the Govt has its bit!!
@@erik61801 In my place of employment, circa 1985-1992, we used opposing-field, wide aperture, liquid-cooled induction heaters in a bilaminate extrusion process line. After exiting the ultrasonic washer/dryer the roll formed strip would pass through an inline glue station before heading into the induction heater. The metal temperature would rise from ambient temperature to 400° instantly. Were there any mishaps, for example the strip galling or binding in the PVC extrusion die, the metal would 'crack-up' in the induction heater and there'd be a fire. We had CO2 extinguishers on hand in that event. It was incumbent on the operators (2) or troubleshooter to hit the panic button to stop the process in its tracks.
Not sure that all that heating will not change the hardness of the bolt or engine block. P.S. Always pull with a wrench, don't push. Your knuckles will thank you.
I used to go to the public library and order books(they didn't have much). The ones I couldn't get, my mom would get them from the city (Toronto). Learning took so much time based on how you interpreted it and you couldn't get the pages dirty. Stilll read in the operations/parts/service manual on the heavy equipment and I used Microfiche when I worked on aircraft(2008). Still love to read-I even read all the comments.
i have a chiltons book for every vehicle i had back then . look up "fix brakes", and would say something super basic like, "replace old parts with new ones",and have a cartoon picture. lol
Due to our 100 years of experience heating metals, most of our process engineers can determine the steel/iron temperature simply by looking at the color. Testing has also been conducted in which the heated components have been instrumented with thermocouples to measure and record the temperatures during the heating process.
yes. it actually is more intense in the center ID of the inductor. We can also design and build custom inductors to heat almost any geometry. We can actually 3D print copper inductors/coils.
smart guy not only has the proper tool but using a short handle ratchet that he cannot possibly generate enough torque to snap a bolt off with.. too many times I see a guy with 1/2 drive socket and a reducer and 1 inch breaker bar with a 10 foot cheater pipe on it to remove stubborn bolts instead of working smart and using heat ..
I don't think the explanation above is correct as you say the stud only elongates which reduces its diameter. how can it elongate when it is locked solidly in a circular wedge? I think the loosening occurs because the heating increases the diameter of the bolt and crushes the corrosion to release it?
The bolt attempts to grow radially, but it can't because it is constrained by the cooler surrounding material, which does not expand. The only way the bolt can move is axially, which causes it to temporarily stretch. When it cools, the diameter is ever so slightly smaller than the original.
@@adammorrison75 I actually never heard of this before, very interesting! Does that mean that you could heat and cool bolts to a lesser degree than the temps in this video, bu repeat tje process several times to get the same effect? (Slightly shrinking stud diameter)
I'm not buying the explanation, the heat itself is breaking the corrosive bond not the expansion of the nut itself. Rust is an oxide whether its aluminum or iron, when you heat either one to a certain temperature it weakens the rust. This is caused by the removal of the oxygen when temps get high enough but iron oxide weakens when heat is applied at 150 - 200C. Going to the point where it glows is unnecessary. Plus you heat it up then apply a bit of paraffin and it will wick into the threads very easily.
@@adammorrison75 If the bolt is expanding because of the heat, it can get longer without having to shrink in diameter. It would only shrink in diameter if you stretched it while it was cool. What is releasing the bolt is the expansion at the microscopic level which is breaking corrosion bonds.
@@adammorrison75 I understand that and it illustrates your point. I would prefer the beefier/longer half-inch drive ratchet which, for me, provides better and more metered control. The ratchet which you are using almost disappears in your hand. It's just a preference to me.
The purpose of getting it glowing is merely for demonstration purposes to show how fast and hot this smaller system can heat these areas. This system is also very controllable and turning off the heat is instantaneous.
@@Years-mv6wi by the way, bolt extractor is used for broken or rounded bolts. Those in video are only stuck, so bolt extractor would be last thing to use here..
No. The temperature used is well below the metallurgical transformation temperatures of the metals being heated. However we would recommend replacing the head bolts with new after heating and removing them.
@Zeksteve correct, but the heat is necessary to break the corrosive bonds allowing the old head stud to be removed without breaking it and thus requiring are more costly and time consuming repair.
The induction heater used in the video is an Ajax TOCCO Magnethermic 5kW TOCCOtron AC, It is powered from a 230V, 400V or 460V 3-phase source. It draws 10 amps from a 460V 3-phase input at full rated output. It is a very powerful and efficient machine.
Works the same. Induction will heat any kind of metal. It prefers to heat magnetic materials such as iron or steel. If we were to be heating to remove a head stud from an aluminum block, we would not heat the side of the block. We would just heat the head of the stud longer and allow the heat to conduct down the length of the stud. Aluminum expands at almost 2x the rate of steel, so the heat we put into the steel would also cause the aluminum to expand around it, which would also aid in releasing the stud.
Alexey Gerasimov yes, very dangerous to spot heat a cast iron or aluminum block. Induction heating the bold alone will definitely the job, differintal heating and cooling will break the bond on the bolt/nut/stud without heating the cast part.
Great question! Contrary to popular belief, induction heating can heat any electrically conductive material, including aluminum, copper, gold, silver, etc... The material does not have to be magnetic in order to be heated by induction. The process only takes longer (2-5X as long) when heating none magnetic materials such as aluminum. For this application heating of the engine block is not necessary, even for the cast iron block. It was just demonstrated to speed up the process. It is possible to get the same results by heating only the head bolt and allowing time for the heat to conduct all the way down the length of the bolt.
it might be cheaper to use then a torch but if you're good with the torch you should never need that especially after already being invested with a torch
Simone Cassino you're going to machine the block and head surface anyways! Geez you just don't think before making a stupid comment! I just cant stand how dumb that was! I need a walk and maybe a drink after that comment!
That there fancy induck thingy e magig looks like my bar be qu fire starter thingy .the kid from home alone used same thingy to fry Joe pesshie's hand PS don't drink the cool aid or the yellow snow
