Infiniti JX35/QX60 Changing Your Rear Brake Pads and Rotors 

@heathcliffvanpoo no problem at all. Happy to hear the videos were helpful!

No problem at all...I appreciate that feedback and glad to hear the videos have helped. There will be more to come soon too!

Awesome, thanks for the feedback. Happy to hear the video was helpful. Always great to hear from a great supporter like you!

Awesome, glad to hear the video helped out. Thanks for watching...appreciate it.

No problem at all. Glad the video will help out.

No problem at all. Glad to hear they helped out. Thanks for watching

I appreciate that! As long as you are saving some money, and getting your car going, then this was a win in my books.

Hello. If I remember correctly, you have to move it down. If it won't move any further, can you still spin the rotor? Don't forget to press your parking brake 'on' before adjusting, so it can be adjusted correctly.

Thanks, appreciate it. Glad all the tips helped out

No problem at all! I feel your pain. I've done a few brake jobs with seized silders. It's never fun. Glad the video will help out. Definitely get those sliders fixed for sure! :)

Awesome. Glad the video helped! Good luck!

No problem at all. Glad to hear the video helped out. A few things to mention about your question. 1. First, if the caliper piston would not go back, but then does go back when you open the bleeder screw, you may have a pinched rubber brake hose. Keep an eye on that side. The brakes could get stuck closed on that side. 2. You would need to be bleed if any air got in. If anyone pressed the brakes when you were working, and the brake pedal was released, it could have sucked in air. If possible, it wouldn't hurt the just at least bleed that wheel. But you wouldn't need bleed the whole system

No problem at all. Good luck with the job!

Hi Marlon. Is this happening on their own, or only when you try to remove the rim from the hub?

Hi sir. Thank you so much for responding 👍🏼. It happens on their own. I put 5 brand new wheel studs like 4 months ago and I was cleaning the wheels yesterday when I noticed I was missing one 🤦🏼‍♂️. And like I said before it happens twice on the same wheel. Rear right. The others are fine. Help please

@@marlonl.moreno6910 I'll definitely try to give some advice on this one. Hard to say what the issue is, as I've seen a few causes in the past. So I'll provide the info I know about. Btw, 22 inch rims must look pretty damn good on your car! First, I assume this is the right fitment for the car. As in, they are either the proper hub centric or lug centric fitment. Also, they have the correct bolt pattern. Since it's not happening to the other wheels, I assume this is true. Here are a few potential causes I've seen in the past 1. The new 22 inch rims...one of the rims could be slightly warped, and it is putting pressure on the lug nuts. This is very very rare, but I've seen it happen. 2. Are the 22inch rims torqued correctly? The jx35/qx60 is rated at 83 ft/lbs. Over torque can definitely snap them. 3. Speaking on torque, not sure if you are the original owner, but if either you (or a previous owner) did over torque the wheel, it can fracture the studs. When you put the bigger wheels on, the wheels inadvertently put pressure on the studs and since the were fractured, they broke. So the issue may not be with the rims now, just damaged studs. Definitely seen that happen before too 4. Last thing I've seen is a misaligned wheel. Especially larger rims put a slight amount of additional strain on hub, which is natural. But if there is an alignment issue on that one wheel, the combined strain could snap bolts. If all 4 wheels were breaking, this possibility is off the table. But since it is only the one wheel, it is possible. That is all I can think of at this point. There may be other causes out there, but if there is, it would be more obscure than these. A sorta easy test is to swap the rims to another hub. See if the issue follows. If you swap a front and rear rim, and the issue follows the rim, then you know the rim is the issue. If the rear right keeps breaking, then it is something wrong with the studs, hub, or alignment. And since this is a stud breaking issue, there is the issue of safety. Hopefully you do get it worked out soon. I've seen some crazy stories with studs breaking. Be safe out there! Any other questions on the stuff I wrote above or anything else, feel free to reach out

I will add it in the description. That is interesting since, if you change the rotors, they should be slightly thicker and should not need adjustment at all. Mine did not, it actually held tighter than before. But anything is possible, so I will add it as a tip

Maybe I misunderstood what the service guy said about adjusting the parking brake. It's pretty obvious it can be.

Hi Michael. Thanks for watching and the great feedback on the video. Let me answer those questions for you. 1. Hard to say without seeing the brake pad, but there are some manufacturers who make their brakes with a rubber shims. So it's very possible, and if those are rubberized shims, they do replace the metals ones. 2. I have not greased shims in years. I used to have to all the time on older cars...used caliper lube. Now I have used something called disc brake quiet...I use it around the 24:00 mark (but DO NOT spray it on the pad while it is install, unless you are confident in your spraying accuracy lol). It has worked 100% every time. It is much easier to handle than grease...a lot less mess. And no brake noise...ever. 3. They can 100 be adjusted. In fact, that little boot on the rotor (you can see me handle it around the 13:50 mark) is for adjustment. If that is what they told you, they are wrong. However, they may have said it 'doesn't need to be adjusted', which is sort of true, since they are self adjusting. But only half true, technically, since even self adjusting e-brakes need some adjustment from time to time, and especially on new installs Hope that helps.

Hey. So, funny thing is I DO have a video on changing the parking brake shoes. It's all filmed, just needed to go through post production. Haven't had time to do it as it's been crazy busy for me recently. I'll see if I can get it put together soon. Keep an eye out

I assume you mean a bigger caliper? There isn't an official kit that I have seen, but there may be some interchangeability between other Infiniti and Nissan products? Not sure, I never checked. Since the front brakes do most of the work, and never felt a need to upgrade beyond better pads and rotors, I never bothered.

Great news! Happy to hear the videos helped out. Thanks for watching!

I have thought about upgrading, the most I did was a higher quality pad and rotor (cross drilled and slotted). I looked at the Akebono/Stoptech brake kits and I am not 100% sure why the kit does not fit on the vehicle. I am wondering if it has to do with the rear trailing arm being so close to the caliper and maybe the larger calipers will not fit? It may be worth contacting them and asking if there is any other reason.

@@NexusAuto I think it’s the trailing arm for the rear and there are probably no stock rims that allow those big brakes up front. Although on the inside rear, it’s not like there isn’t already a piston there. And the extra mass is in the center. It might be the brake line or bonjo bolt. Whatever it’s called. I’ll look into it more. Thank you.

@@NexusAuto that’s a guy that showed that it work but I don’t know if he needed spacers for the front. You also can’t use rotors from a g37/370 because the hat is too small for the emergency brake

@@chrisshore9000 no problem at all. Hope the upgrade goes through for you. If it does, let me know how it all went

That is a huge problem. Normally, when something like this happens, there is only 2 things that help...lubrication, leverage or heat. First, I know you have been lubricating a fair bit. If you haven't already, try soaking the bolts in as much lubricant as possible and leave it overnight, then try again. You can also get a long wrench or use the double wrench method to increase leverage. Be careful with this, as you can round out the bolt head or snap a bolt, and there is a new, larger headache there. You can also put your wrench on the bolt and 'shock' it by hitting it with a hammer, but you have to be careful with this as well. Last, if all else fails, a torch is needed to heat up the area around the bolt so it will come out. I know some of these are solutions that need either financial investment or some additional skill to get done, but really, these are the only real ways that work. Hope this helps, and good luck!

No problem at all. I use caliper lube for the caliper pins. If you check the description, I have an amazon associate link there if you want to see which one I use.

Unfortunately, I don't have a video yet. I plan to make one, as my suspension needs some work, but haven't gotten to it yet. I would have to double check the paint markers. Normally manufacturers add paint for alignment purposes, so I assume it is that, but could not say unless I inspect. Never paid attention to them at this point, to be honest. For the torque, here are your numbers Center strut nut (up top, holding assembly together) - 54 ft/lbs 3 upper strut mount nuts - 35 ft/lbs 2 Lower strut bolts - 122 ft/lbs . Hope this helps.

Thanks! Appreciate the great feedback! Glad the video helps out! I assume you are talking about the bolts for the torque member and not the caliper sliders? If so, they are torqued to 62 ft lbs. 👍🏾

@@NexusAuto yup that's exactly what I needed. Greatly appreciate the info! Might be hard to get a torque wrench in there but just in case I can it will be great to know the specs.

@@vtecaccord96 absolutely, I completely agree. Knowing what you're dealing with is ideal!

Hi Chao. Check my other response. I have everything for your there. Thanks for the great feedback and for watching.

Thanks, got it

If you have AWD, I lift from the rear differential, then put the jack stands at each pinch weld.

Thanks for all the details

No problem

No problem. Glad to hear it helped out

Hello. There is definitely no bolt that holds the rotor in place. What you see in the video is exactly as it is. However, the emergency brake mechanism and shoes are inside the rotor. This can cause it to jam on. First, and this is to just double check, do you have the parking brake engaged? If you do, it will lock the rotor in place. It may be loose enough to spin freely, but tight enough to prevent it from coming off. You want to be cautious as to not damage the ebrake system. It is also possible that you may have to loosen the ebrake adjustment. That's what the small rubber covered hole is for. You take out the rubber, and get the hole dead center at the top. There is an adjustment gear in there. You have to back it out to change the adjustment on the ebrakes. You will have to make sure to readjust them back afterwards. Last, there is the possibility that the rotor has seized to the hub...it happens. Nothing more than soaking in penetrating fluid and slowing working it loose with the hammer. But make sure you check the ebrake first. It would suck to beat on it with the hammer, only to actually damage the ebrake. Hope this helps a bit.

Nexus Auto great and detailed information! I worked it as you advised. Rotor rusted and started loose after WD 40 left there for a night. Thanks so much

Also May I know the banjo bolt/caliper pin/torque member bolt? Thanks so much

@@chaoma3234 No problem at all. Glad you got it loose.

@@chaoma3234 Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, was offline for a bit. In case you still need the info, here it is. Originally, the front torque member bolts where 62 ft lbs, but there was a recall from Nissan/Infiniti and they amended it to 91 ft lbs for the front only. Here is the numbers Front Torque Member Bolts - 91 ft lbs Caliper Slider Bolts - 20 ft lbs Banjo Bolt - 13 inch pounds Rear Torque Member Bolts - 62 ft lbs Caliper Slider Bolts - 32 ft lbs Banjo Bolt - 13 inch pounds

There is lots of brands out there, so consider all for sure. When I filmed these, I installed Raybestos rotors. I have since upgraded to cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors....just because I always like cross drilled stuff on my cars lol.

Unfortunately, not at this time. M e-brake was working ok, so did not consider it. But I will surely make one in the future. Not sure when. Will keep you posted.

That is up to you, and it does depend on the condition of the other rotor, technically. But I always say when changing rotors, change both. It makes braking more consistent and smooth. If you have one good rotor and one worn one, the brakes won't be as efficient, and you will have to change the other one eventually anyways.

Very nice, thanks bro

@@bullbear3345 no problem at all!

No problem at all!

The torque spec for the lug nuts are 83 ft lbs. I round up to 85 ft lbs personally.

Hello. I have seen your issue come up in a few cars, and it can be one of 2 things. But before I go forward, check the video at 11:35 for a visual reference. I will do my best to explain. But before I go forward, I want to make sure as I have also seen this happen...do you have your emergency brake turned on? I have seen people do this in error, not realizing that it WILL clamp the rotor on to the shoes. You may already be aware of that, but it is a common mistake. Just want to doublecheck. If the ebake is not engaged, lets look at the 2 options. 1. The method you are talking about is in regards to the brake shows that you can see at 11:35. This assumes the brakes shoes are stuck pushing against the inside of the rotor. At the top center you will see a threaded rod with what looks like a gear between the 2 shoes. You have to remove the rubber cap in the rotor and rotate it so the hole is at the very top, and stick a flathead screwdriver to rotate the gear. That gear is for the brake shoe adjustment. But we wary...turning it one way loosens the shoes, while turning it the other way actually pushed them further. Unfortunately, I dont remember which direction to turn it. 2. The other very common issue is the rotor itself may be stuck on the hub. I am not sure if your mechanical knowledge, which is ok, but in case you are not aware, that is the item that looks like a star at 11:35 that has the 5 lug bolts, and the rotor attaches to that. If there is enough salt and corrosion in there, it can actually bond the rotor to the hub. If this is the case, you need to spray some lubricant (like WD40) in there to break down the corrosion. But that is always a bit tough. You need to spray it in the holes where the lug bolts for through the rotor, and around the center, where that big center nut is...dont spray the nut itself, but along the edge where the rotor makes contact with the little middle lip that is sticking out. It may take a fair bit of lubricant. Also, get a rubber mallet preferably, and if not, and you are changing the rotors, a metal one will be fine, and hit along the center part of the rotor itself, along the edge where the hub is. Not too hard, just enough to shock out any rust that may be in there. I would definitely check method one first, before moving to method two. You want to make sure the brake shows are not stuck pushing on the inside of the rotor. Hope this helps.

@@NexusAuto Thanks for the advices. I will try thoses methods and I'll tell you if it worked. Nice helpful video by the way !

@@Dreamgeaver Thanks, appreciate it. Definitely let me know how it goes.

@@NexusAuto Hi, just to let you know that I've succeed changing my rear rotors. It was the emergency brake that blocked the rotors. Thanks a bunch for the advices ! Well done.

@@Dreamgeaver Fantastic...that is great news! Glad to hear it all went well. Thanks for the update too!

@juniorgarcia114 it all depends. I got lucky, as I live in Canada and rust is an issue. But these SUVs are getting older now and parts will get harder and harder to remove. The process is correct, but can't plan for seized parts, sadly