I bought the peopoly phenom and I love it love it for the large scale prints. That's what I was aiming for when I bought the cr10 that printer kicked my behind all over the place I couldn't get it to run right no matter what adjustments and upgrades were made so I sold it and bought a peopoly phenom and it is easy to use . Happy creating.
Looking for more Phrozen Transform videos? Make sure to checkout Dungeon Printers channel! He has some great detailed content on the printer! ru-vid.com/show-UCIVpdK7fmzonKmhZDBdzDLw
Side note... this is my first video thats available in 4k! 2160p! We will see how long I can keep that up 🤘 Also come and say hi on instagram instagram.com/unclejessy4real/
The build plate is perforated to allow resin flow, otherwise the vacuum force against it when raising would be too strong against the FEP and raising speed would have to be very, very slow. Kelant uses it already on their small D100 as well as on their bigger 3D printer, they can be seen in Aliexpress. I perforated my Elegoo Mars build plate upon finding that information, although only 6 holes along the center. That also allows to place closed models centered around a hole, directly on the build plate, with no need to have escape holes within the design.
The one thing I don't like about this printer is the rectangular build. Something closer to a square for the base would be preferred to me if they could get it as wide as it is tall. That'd be a resin version of a cr-10. I know the reason is the led panels for the uv lights typically have 16x9 builds and a square would be expensive. Just a pipe dream.
I was thinkin the same, make it what we call a rectangular shape, cuts out too many models that have a different shape. The one guy who builds a 3d printer capable of interchange the resin vat and the building plate from rectangular to square as we see fit. Would be king.
@@Chromeskull90 There is one company I know of that did make a square bottom resin printer. The Moai 200 has a 200x200x250 build volume and costs about 1500usd. Though from what I'm told, it doesn't have the same UV light style the Phrozen does which makes it less accurate for industrial builds.
The holes in the build plate are there so the resin can easily flow back under it when it moves up, as well as against suction, so the bottom of the vat is not being pulled up as well. A lot of DIY builds have had them for a couple of years already (mine included).
Shifting layers suggests instability of the build plate as it's being elevated. Any lateral shift in the build as it's being raised will show up in the print. Flat vertical surfaces are the best test for this. Quality and stiffness of the linear bearings the build plate is mounted to are critical to quality results.
Every video starting out " I just got another the largest 3d printer" I feel like I seen 3 of these now where he's like I just got the largest printer like ok when is it actually guna be the largest one
Has anyone had issues with chitubox not allowing you to put holes in a model? The first few times I used it, the add a drain hole feature worked fine. After that anytime I try to add a hole it just fails. Also I had an issue printing a lithophane where it added a solid layer on top when it sliced the file but the model itself doesn't have it.
Just unboxed my 3rd mini delta this morning but damn this machine is a beauty. I’m salivating. It’s late here in NY state and I kinda wish I didn’t see this video because now I really want to make the switch to resin. My big hold out was build plate size on other machines
The resin price needs to come down. I can print 5 of those large batman models with one spool of PLA $18. The only bad thing with PLA is the smoothness that you can't get like a Resin printer. That quality is the bomb!
Wow! 1) I turned in TV and RU-vid and said you posted 15 seconds ago! 2) I see your shirt and say to myself “self that looks like a Rochester skyline shirt!” 3) came here and see your mailing address is my hometown! Class of 1988 Rush Henrietta High school but 3 years at Roth High before the schools combined. 4) where can I get that Rochester skyline shirt?!?
Class of 1998 Fairport, living back here in ROC as well. The T-shirt was from www.tinyfishprinting.com/ they had an event over the weekend where I picked it up
Is the Phrozen Sonic Mini just as annoying to get going, with SD card and slicer issues/ complications? I noticed your review of it, but you don't mention any of it.
Are there different resin compositions? What is the active ingredients in this resin? Ie; is it flammable, toxic if ingested or fume inhaled? Does it stand up to corrosives, high temperatures, impacts etc etc? Can an automated resin dispenser be added as required to save on unnecessary wastage of resin or having to put excess resin back into a container? What is the service life of the curing screen and its replacement cost? And can it work fully offline?
great video! maybe I am blind, but is there a link to that Resin, looks so Snow White. I tried out different white resins, but they turned into "yellow-white" after UV Box. thank you so much!
So if I want something good for cosplay and weapons easily and how much it would cost to print such pieces would you recommend this or just a large FDM printer?
A lightsaber hilt for example would run you about ~$10 in resin. (I recently printed Cal's hilt) However the quality is amazing compared to fdm, but--resin can be brittle. If you're wanting large, cheaper, less detailed prints, but more durable as you can print in tons of materials, fdm printer for sure. Edit: a hollow lightsaber is what I'm referring to, a solid one would run you much more $
I still recommend FDM for pieces that require some hardness. Granted there are a few pieces where a flexible resin can be beneficial for cosplay. I generally run both depending on what I need, but if I had to choose, FDM offers more flexibility for wearable pieces.
@@Blitz1Blacktail1 Couldn't agree more! I miss out on printing quite a few things with having a resin printer. And at the same time, what I can print is very high quality. Definitely ups and downs for both, for cosplay--go with fdm
hello uncle Jessy! im always watch your review of phrozen transform printer , and i just got mine this week . but i have some issue here, my print always stick to the fep film , why did it happen ? Is there something wrong with my settings? I did re leveling with paper, and the results are the same . can you help me with some tips ? thank you very much
Hey there. I did a video a few months back on Ptfe lubricant. It helps keep the prints from sticking to the FEP. You can also try adjusting your bottom exposure settings as well.
I am normally one of the first to complain about price of these systems but this time I have to say Phrozen really came through and is offering a sweet upgrade at a very reasonable price, all things considered. Still a printer of this size is not going to entice someone who is not in it to make money or has a way to sell what they are making due to the absurd price of resin. Still I would like to know what resin you are using that only costs $40 a liter? I am paying right at double that and have yet to find a resin of sufficient quality for a lesser cost. Great video and looking forward to hearing more about it.
Hey Jessy, would you recommend a resin printer to someone who makes a lot of helmets or other big armoryparts or should I stay with my cr-10s? Love you work btw:)
Great review, Jessy. I'm about to bust open my Elegoo Mars (finally!). Anxious to see your 2-piece helmet print. Quick question, if Nova took 2.5 bottles, how did you replenish the resin in the middle of the print? Were you prompted? Does it pause and resume cleanly?
you can just pour it in while curing a layer. you can pause, but you should try to avoid it. if you mush, wait for the build plate to rise and pause it then, that way you are not interrupting a layer cure.
This is a cool machine, and I like it for the Z axis that has 10 cm more than my Anycubic M3 Max. With that being said this is a 3 year old video, and the Anycubic has 6K and prints basically the same size less the Z axis. Now What I don't like about the Anycubic is that I am using Chitubox, and it has to convert the file to the Anycubic format to print, and I am getting Ghosting issues with the prints at times. I think Phrozen just prints strait from the Chitubox, and I am hoping that this will fix some of these issues. Now the Price on the Transforms is to high at this point. With Machines like the Mega 8K being at 3k give or take this machine at 2200 to 2600 is just Ludacris. I am looking at an open box Transform on eBay at the moment. The man paid 2500 for it give of take 2 to 3 years ago and claims to have used it 3 times. He is asking 1700 for it, with 112 shipping. I told him that in my opinion that if someone offered him 700 for it, he should grab it and run to the bank. Phrozen puts these on sale about 4 times a year for 999. with free shipping. The other issue is that the spare LCD screens are around 300 to 350, and 550 from the reseller stores, and they are all sold out at the moment. I found out the hard way with the M3 Max that I had to wait 5 weeks to get a replacement screen from China, and that if you are going to print a lot, you really need 2 on the shelf in reserve if it is at all practical. I have a Mighty 8K on the way and I am somewhat pitting it against the M3 Max although it doesn't print as large of pieces, I want to see if it cures the ghost walls in the prints.
Hey unk its ya nephew! Now I know why I've been holding off and saving my money. This may be the printer I've been wanting for! I'll hold off for about four or more months to see how this works for you. Thanks again!
So now it is 3 years later, and I have a chance to buy a used one in good condition for 1,000 dollars. I am using a M3 max now and I want to go bigger but keep the good ass resolution. So my question is this close to 4K?
The layer shift lines look like they are a result of a bubble building up inside the model that causes a pop when it pulls up on the model after some time, changes in topology or orientation can help with that
Resin prints are typically high detail but fragile. if you drop them they will more than likely shatter. You can mix in other resins to make it more flexible or durable
Hey Jessy, would you mind telling us the purpose of the two 5.5" screens that comes with the machine? I've been looking at this model and I can't seem to find any info about it. I'm new to SLA printing as I just only picked up a Photon S for work.
Greetingsª i have an issue with my Creality LD- 001 The build plate is made of metal and a thick layer of glass. I have printed with it only 5 times and is all dented from the spatula removing the prints :S, so i guess in only a few months i would not be able to print with it again. Other LCD printers like Elego mars and Anycubic Photon have this issues as well? Can i buy a spare part from anywhere?
Elegoo Mars has a solid aluminum build plate. I use a metal scraper to remove prints from the build plate and haven't experienced any damage whatsoever after several months of use. What you describe doesn't seem to be standard, but I don't know anything about the Creality resin printer.
@@mimked Same, i was looking for more information regarding this printer but there is little informarion, even in other youtube channels. But yes, this printer has a glass layer upon the metal building plate and after a fea uses is very dented. I just send an email to creality contact mail but i dont really think they sell spare parts :/ so i'm f*cked i guess...
This is one sexy printer. I'm just afraid about the cleaning and curing of massive prints. It's already not so user friendly with regular resin printers.
If printer profiles/settings are stored on the sd card wouldn't the wifi settings be there as well? If you can find the wifi file in the sd card maybe you could copy paste your password.
If you're enjoying resin printing, check out eSUN's eResin-PLA. PLA based resin with properties a lot closer to filament (ie. MUCH less brittle, and a bit more flexible than other resins)
On fdm if you use 20 or 30 (whatever) small pieces. Put all on one stl then slice. In design software select finished object and clone and save as a single stl. Do not import other files that makes the file huge! Like a lot on thingiverse.com.
look nice but with 20cmx20cmx20cm max is not enoght for 2000€. I am back to my 4 axis CNC. Maybe invest in one new 5 axis CNC than 3D printer. I see you when can make 1m3 work volume.
Idk if you will read this or not but I’ve been 3D printing for about 6 months and I really enjoy these videos. Eventually I want to start doing printer reviews but I don’t even know how to start. Can you maybe describe how you started doing them? Or somehow message me and we can talk.
yeah, unfortunately the build plate stuck issue was only during the big white Nova statue... it was working correctly for the Oni Mask and smaller prints
why do resin printers use inches while fdm pretty much only uses mm? like resin printers are smaller and using a larger unit of measurement makes things way too confusing
So right off the bat they do need to work on the UI and try to make things a tad more universal in terms of lingo. I can really see this as a unit that a business uses. They don't quite need the pro's yet but they do need to size/quantity in one go and not multiple. The real question is how long do the parts last and how much does it cost to replace them? I may have missed it but is that also using an FEP film or is it a "glass" plate given the size. - Answered on Dungeon Printer's YT
Any chance the minor layer shift is due to a flaw in the Z screw? I would check each model you've printed to see if the few lines you are getting are at the same height of every print.
"An overly complex wifi password for good reasons" uh.... I'm in network security, password complexity isn't the weak link, and you can increase password complexity by adding more characters rather than special characters.
Whatever the test file is, we got it to load into the printer tonight during setup and it says it's 6001 layers and will take 133 hours to print. So we just got a 10mm calibration file instead :D
Do you have your Chitubox profile available for download? We're doing a test print of a tiny steamboat that took 2.5 hours on the Slash OL (and we've shrunk that model by 50%) and it's going to take 20 hours on the Phrozen. Something is strange. We got the profile from the Facebook group. Burn time is 80000ms, cure time is 8000ms. Heigh is 50 microns. Not sure why it's so slooooooow. But at least it's up and running.
I wonder, why on earth these types of printers should have layer lines at all. Imo they could just run Z motor at a low constant speed and interpolate between 2 displayed images in a linear fashion.
I think the issue is that you need some time and tolerance for the new liquid resin to flow under the hardened resin. Therefore there is a lower limit to the height of the layers.
first of all, only mad ladds should buy this printer. like you said, it's one hell of a loss when your printer fails at 95% of a 3 day print or something. Second, it looks like you've lost a lot of weight my dude. you look a lot healthier, keep it up!
That sure beats the heck out of the ten grand for the form 3L. This printer could be good for a “production” miniature business. Or in my case for producing large numbers of custom 1/35 scale figures for dioramas and/or “model kits”. But.... I really need to produce items with absolutely NO layer marks and the carbon one (because it’s continuous printing/no stopping for layers) @40 grand just isn’t an option. I saw your phrozen mini video last night and I noticed today that phrozen has a 4K high definition printer. Do you have any info or opinion on that one?
great video! how was your experience dealing with Phrozen support? and how helpful is the community around the Transform? For me thats a huge thing is to be able to get help easily, either from other users or support. There nothing worst when a printer doesnt work and you have no one to turn to.
That right there is a great question. Email response took a day or two, I mostly relied on the Phrozen Facebook group. Unfortunately the user group is still really really small for this.
