Inside a defrost thermostat and thermal fuse 

Yep and single dose suppositories and those little ammonia packets you snap to wake somebody up as well..

@@Z-Ack very cool stuff. It's funny how when he started thinking about how the wires are crimped together I was like" this is so interesting!" Probably to only like 5 people! But turns out it's a bit more than 5 :)

Makes me wonder when we will see a renaissance of tubes, but flexible ones

The pooploop has been completed.

I thought it looked like a tube for toothpaste, myself.

Safety devices should be as simple and reliable as possible. Springs opening contacts, energy loss shutting down devices, gas pilot lights with automatic shutoffs, etc.

Thanks! I could have sworn I'd seen that somewhere.

It's medieval stuff like these that save your house from burning down!

indeed.. : )

@@gags730 the one with the appliance Manger board and the dsi (direct spark ignition) board for the oven?

@@gags730 that's the plan. Planned obsolescence and intentional murder of the repair market. It's sabotage. It's "products as a service". It's "sustainable income". It's a weapon to kill human prosperity and replace it with turning humans into bags of meat - tax cattle. Unfortunately, trying to explain to a meatbag that they're a meatbag doesn't work. Oh well, not a loss, they ARE meatbags.

No broiling allowed.

lazy design engineers; providing work for thousands of installation/repair techs the world over

@@frogz they're not lazy, it's intentional.

Low temp alloys would not have the mechanical properties to be draw into wire. It is usually a button or a plug. Honestly the best you could hope for is a tensile of 5k psi with an sn/bi eutectic. The rest are drastically less.

*drawn

These things often have to conduct the whole current in series with a line voltage (120/230/240V) heater element or heat pump compressor, so you can't really make the wire that fine.

Heh! Blame the fridge why don't you?

Not glowing=/=Not hot is a lesson we all learn at some point.

A good high temp wire is coated in silicone and woven fiberglass.

Maybe silicone at the end of the insulation.

I have done something similar in the past with success. I use solid core wire and strip the insulation off the wire, then heat seal. Same premise as what’s shown in the video, but with solid core wire and no insulation at the point of the heat seal. Obviously it’s important to stop adjacent conductors from touching while heat sealing, but it hasn’t been an issue for me yet.

Yes, things can wick down a stranded wire. I have had batteries leak and found the corrosion wick like 6 inches down the wire finding green corrosion the other end.

I've worked with a sensor that had to be waterproof, but had a connector at the end of 20cm of stranded wire. We used "sealed" wire, which had small blobs of silicone sealant added to the strands every two cm or so. That makes the wire more expensive, of course, but it did a good job of preventing moisture from moving down the strands.

i'll bet anyone who witnessed it happen will never forget the dull orange glow of the heater before it blew

Speaking of irons and thermal fuses. This I think was an older model but don't know for sure. I was scrapping an iron for a few things and also use the base/ soul of the iron as a weighted base for something else for a tool Mount I think it was it may have been I was using it to make a soldering iron holder for someone! But the thermal fuse in that iron was something well rather intriguing. It was not standard little cervical thermal fuse like the one in this video was. It was essentially to contacts brass or copper alloy or other that that a bit of a spring to it. There were two circular portions of the contacts that were essentially soldered with a low melting point alloy. And that was the thermal fuse itself! Also I was working on an old movie projector which I wound up salvaging in the end once it died! The Intriguing thing is the internal Motors were actually 240 since this was originally built in Europe. However the power transformer was designed for use with world voltages. So this Transformer also acted not only as the lamp Transformer and a step-down Transformer but also a Step up Transformer! And when I was in there trying to check some voltages I got a nasty surprise happened to bump the terminal on the Transformer they're like whoa that's more in line voltage turns out I I had received a 500 volt shock! So I put it like that that's designed for multiple countries and is produced in Europe be careful that's not something I expected in the least and because it was so dark inside of it it was difficult to see and almost no terminals were labeled besides the input selection terminals for line voltage selection. No mention of very high voltage or whatever inside you think there would be some sort of warning when that voltage is present! And yes it was being powered from 120 volts here in the US! The other interesting thing is instead of a fuse or even a thermal fuse this may have been used for both simultaneously possibly. It had what I would describe as an open link fuse with a spring hooked on one end of the s-shaped hooks of the fuse element. Essentially a low melting point elderly attaching to pieces of either copper or other metal alloy. Essentially two pieces of metal and solder was the actual fuse! And fairly strong extension spring! Not sure if this was intended to be blown by current or heat or both but I suspect both. Also I'd seen something similar to that iron thermal fuse but on a smaller scale inside of some old hair dryers every once awhile but not very often mostly very early ones probably wasn't the best idea to take those apart since their mind have been asbestos! But those hair dryers continued to dry hair! This is long before modern hair dryers but still looked like someone the modern ones back when they were just the two prong cord and no fancy gfrc and ionic whatever where all you had was on off cold high low medium that's about it. Later on they would add a diode to do away with one of the heating elements essentially feed half-wave rectified to the heating element to reduce element power output. Much like the old Radio Shack dual heat soldering irons more old school hi low dimmer switches. I'm wondering if there's anyone that makes a night light fixture that has a diode in series with the socket to increase lamp life and dim it quite a bit as well of course incandescent and this needs to be for 120 volts ac for United States as well! I know when option would be a nightlight size and wattage bulb that would be something like a 220 volt indicator in place of the steering night light bulb but that's harder to find but they do exist probably costly to get potentially as well

Looks very PVC-ish.

Can you give us a clue as to where they're available? They look well-made...

@@stepheneyles2198 I bought engineer ph-55 and ph-57 scissors from ebay couple years ago. I don't know who the hand model for those was, as it actually hurts to use them. Or I have been spoiled with classic fiskars handles here in finland, where fiskars has been THE scissor brand since the sixties and basically everyone has them on their kitchen. I bought those engineer ones just because I wanted to know if i have been brainwashed to use Finnish brand and to see if Japan would give us better tools, but it seems to be pretty hard to reach for the green ones, when my orange scissors are available. I'm not sure if the blades are any sharper/harder/whatever, as it does not matter if I would not want to touch the handles.

why would they use RF rather than a hotbar? What's the benifit?

@@UberAlphaSirus a "hot bar" could burn the pvc and still not provide a hermetic seal. The time the bar would be in contact would be very critical, too much or too little could ruin the item. RF welding is better for that sort of job. You'd be surprised how many things are RF welded. Just go to B&Q and have a look at all the sealed clear packs .. they're a bitch to open but it stops people messing about with stuff while letting them see what they are getting

@@davestewart2359 I don't see why a "hot bar" would burn PVC unless it was set to max. Why it would not create a hermetic seal. Can you use RF to impresion serial numbers on the other end of the capsule. And would the copper conductors interfer with the RF energy? Just some intrested queastions, no mallace intended.

@@UberAlphaSirus ok ..... Direct heat is very difficult to control. It takes time to transfer through the material, so while the inside is still solid the outside has already melted. Sometimes there are molecular changes that go on due to the heat and the material becomes brittle. Conversely with RF welding the tool is "cold", the heat is generated inside the material (a little like a microwave). The applied energy needs only to be on for a few seconds and the whole of the material where the tool is in contact becomes molten. Yes you can imprint text as you are welding, the tool needs to be designed for it though. Finally, yes, having wires poking out is not a good idea, but as long as the tooling and the process is properly designed, there "shouldn't" be any problems. Though accidents do happen. I remember working on a machine where thin steel backplates were encapsulated in the spine of a binder. The plates had to be placed perfectly as there was only about 1mm space all around. If the tooling hit the steel plate there would be a hell of an "arc" which would burn a hole in the upper tool AND the base causing a few hours downtime.

@@davestewart2359 thanks. Sounds like I will have to look into it more.

I do this too, I buy the glue lined heatshrink and once hot I use an old set of heavy pliers to cold crimp the open end, then at the wire end pump in hot glue and reheat so it looks like it's been potted around the wires.

Now if only the valve wouldn't dribble leaving icicles hanging from the tray and a glacier along the bottom of the hopper.

@@tactileslut the fix for that is to change the solenoid valve, which is separate from the ice maker module.

@@jkbrown5496 ... and the drawer, as the girlfriend's mother stabbed through it with an ice pick where I'd been leaving it over the sink every week or two. Back to topic, your ice maker sounds like Clive's neon sign sequencers.