The defrost thermostat for my refrigerator is out of stock. Can I replace it with one with similar temperatures. (Mine is KitchenAid/whirlpool #WP2321805, with marking “L23.8-19.4C”. I assume this means “close at 75F, open at 4.4C = 40F”.)
That would indicate that the part should be working and not stopping the refrigerator from going through the automatic defrost cycle. But that doesn't test the opening temperature. Also, defrost thermostats can fail intermittently if moisture gets inside the part. If you suspect it could be bad, it is often replaced as they are a common failure point in the defrost system. On GE refrigerators also make sure to test the defrost sensor: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SBfqozNgLYY.html
I do all my own work and have several rentals with GE side by side. You offer all information in one place from one source. I find what I need and don't need to spend a day on RU-vid. Thanks for making this such a smart website/channel!
It would be better if the term "continuity" was defined. Continuity is the presence of a complete path for current flow. A circuit is complete when its switch is closed. A digital multimeter's Continuity Test mode can be used to test switches, fuses, electrical connections, conductors and other components.
Thanks for the video. I have a Samsung model RF268ABRS and i am getting continuity at room temperature (.03 ohms) on the black thermostat. Now that you explained the thermostat is a high limit that explains why it has continuity. I do have the other sensor and it is reading 4.5K ohms at 74 degrees ambient temp so it is also good. My defrost element is measuring over 159K ohms so it is bad. Thanks again for the video. 👍🏼
Great video. I have a GE side by side door. My defroster failed. It was replaced along with the thermostat that came with it. Problem I'm having is that now the defrost cycle is too hot! Seems like the cold isn't kicking on fast enough. Does that mean I have the wrong thermostat or faulty one? It looks like the traditional first one in your video. But I also have a thermistor so I'm a bit confused since you said usually the high limit thermostat is the one with a thermistor. But yeah my ice is melting together into one big piece and I see icicles on the racks. Help!
Did you replace the parts with Genuine GE parts? Have you tested the temperature sensor like we show here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SBfqozNgLYY.html
Ok I have a Samsung RF4267HARS/XAA Fridge, Numbers On My Defrost Sensor, is 40/60 ? How would I test This with A Multimeter ? From what Im seeing here, at Freezing Temps, this Should be Closed ? And at 140°or even Room Temp 76° ETC, it should have an Ohm Reading Correct ? If all of what Ive said, Is Correct then mine is Bad, It Is Closed at Below Zero Temps, and closed in a Bowl Of 140° Water as well, no Change in Ohms Either Way
We couldn't find the opening temperature listed for your model refrigerator, but most are around 140F. It sounds like it is bad from what you are describing. You could try heating up it higher than 140F to see at what temp it opens.
@@PartsDr Ok thanks, I'll try it a Little hotter, But Definitely Seems bad to me, thanks for the Reply. Also, 1 other Question, in testing My Evaporator Fan for Voltage, should the Fan be Running with the Magnets Taped to the Marks ? Mine Did not show 12 Volts, Fan Breifly Came on, then Stopped.
It would depend on the current state of the thermostat. If the thermostat is cooled down and in a closed state, once it reaches 64F it will open. Once open, the thermostat would need to cool down below 23F to close.
