Inside a poundland £5 sealed LED 10W floodlight. 

And your Smartmeter lets you pay for 40W :D

Or a clothes iron.

what if like me you are A, a bloke and B, a bloke who dont posses one of them iron thingies ?

Use a torch or put it on the stove in a pan.

A hair dryer might suffice.

Then you are a creased scruffy bugger and should hide away out from public view...... Or you work at Barclays.

I've seen a method very similar to this used in windshield replacement, where the oriiginal is attached to the car body with some sort of strong adhesive.

relative... as Clive showed in a video of a pair of days ago it may be just a loose wire or something stupid, it's anyways a shame you cannot open it easily and it's also painful for "fix it all" buddies (cost apart)

I'm one of the guys who would try to repair it. If it breaks in the process, there is nothing to loose. I don't repair if a new one is cheaper or close to the original price if there is a major failure. I don't have an electronics shop nearby so I have to order any single part.

all agreeble... it's anyways shameful that this particular "ability" of devices is still overlooked (if not gotten worse), this "trend" of forbidding zero-cost-repairs on whatever is not ending, people become more likely to open things and repair em themselves.... an iconic brand? apple?... device? printers?.. my old FIAT car had a throttle body that costed 700€, it was LITERALY half of the fuel injection, the problem? a stupid potentiometer that could cost 10€... and they don't even make those stuff to last, those leds are rated for 20k hours but a bonding wire may get loose in a week, who knows?... i still have the SCHEMATICS of my old Mivar TVs, there was the schematic in the box, my new car comes with just how to adjust the clock, old OWNER manuals had schematic, fluids type and amounts and even torque data for engine bolts, only exploded views were missing

Alot of idiots don't know how to wire a plug either but that is still not a reason to make it a toss in the bin item.

Micheal Donnellan yep!... and i'm not so "green fan" afterall, but it's unbelievable!! i refused to buy those 18V leds as bulk because I KNOW they will become obsolete or something... we work for and buy and trash things that are basicelly OUR (it's intended) workforce

Kew Akl ...along with the oh so generous 20cm power cable!

+Sean Not-telling -- Thank you for the information, I did know something like that was commercially available.

Clive, can you buy one of the ones from home bargains and show it on your YT channel. Is there a home bargains shop in Edinburgh?

I don't even try opening these. They are basically landfill.

@@BigClive But that's terrible. I think a hacked version with a view to longer life would be fab.

That's not a bad idea. But the silicone adhesive doesn't seem to weaken with heat.

He has plenty, as I've watched plenty. Take a look at this if you want a hearty laugh; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NWDUDkBl1Zk.html

I want to put longer cable on osram led and it seams silicon is protected by metal edge :(

Nothing to test it properly with while traveling.

@@BigClive But it would be nice to do when you get back, especially the PF. At ten watts VA vs real power starts looking important. A quick guess suggests that most of the power is dissipated in the linear regulator.

@@BigClive No prob mate... Thinking cause it's sold in Poundland it is the full 10 watt as they have to stand over it but interested to see! Keep up the good work mate

Supercell seems to be a relatively legitimate low cost brand that you can buy from other retailers - not one of poundland's own label brands (not that there's anything wrong with those). it's got a website (supacell.eu.com) with TUV lab reports on some of it's LED bulbs, the website claims PF >0.9 on these slim floodlights.

They haven't got these on my poundland's £5 shelf - but they HAVE got a solar PIR garden floodlight...which might be a good item to take home for full examination. Guess the original bateries will be rubbish, but can they be upgraded?

Or a chinese copy of it :)

I wonder what frequency the generator puts out. Many of these lights do flicker visibly due to only being lit for part of the sinewave.

@@BigClivethanks for the response. Is there any way to check that frequency? I'm a mechanic to trade so AC electricity is somewhat of a mystery to me. Although having said that, from watching your channel intently for a while now, some of it is actually sinking in. Now I actually know my bridge rectifier from my bum! :) Keep up the good work, loving your videos and narrative!!

it got sacrificed in the name of science ofcourse

Torx bolt ?

You can buy LED COB modules on eBay for a wide range of voltages. They need to be mounted onto a proper heatsink to allow them to operate without overheating. If using 110V or above modules the heatsink is best grounded for safety.

Do you mean vehicle fuses? Search for PCB mounting automotive fuse holder.

Thank you Clive, what about the diode choice?

I think it was a typical 4.7uF 400V one. I didn't notice any obvious flicker.

For running cables short distances on a protected outdoor wall away from impact damage a common choice seems to be rubber Ho7 flex. You should be able to attach the lights to the beams no problem with short screws.

Thank you very much Clive! I hope you've had a great Christmas! I love your videos, I have been watching them for years now!

It sounds like it's got a failed LED. They're all wired in series so it results in flickering or a dull glow.

They tend to use a regulator, so it would probably be the same intensity at the higher voltage.

@@BigClive thank you. What do you use to convert ac to any dc current can you recommend something?

Have you tried a different power supply? I had a similar issue (ZERO reception on regular FM) because of a noisy power supply (my rear cam is right by the in-glass antenna) and switching to a different power supply helped.

DashCamAndy I’ll give that a go. Just need to find a 3m usb cable. Cheers

It's silicone, so not really meltable.

@@BigClive there is anti-silicone out there used to remove rest of silicone from bathroom tiles etc., that may do the trick... here in Germany it is a kind of red grease based ones example www.mellerud.de/shop/de/silicon-entferner-250-ml.html

A shame... The lights look quite good for a fiver.

It does occasionally get in if cables are stored in a yard.

This was off of a 500 foot roll that was covered in stretchwrap. no water exposure to any parts of the spool could be seen. It never caused problems, but it was very freaky watching water ooze from wire that was going to be connected to 480 v ac, as the ferrules were being put on.

That is a very similar font! I don't think it's exactly the same as the tng font though

whatever it say, likely means fail 12 months :))

I wonder if it's a flare?

I've got a photograph of one if you've got somewhere I can send it.

As poundworld are dead in the water that wont be a problem for much longer.

If the kit runs on 5v it'd be OK, if it's designed for 3 or 4 cells then that's a 4.5 to 6 volt battery when full and would probably be fine. Micro USB is a bit fiddly to solder, you might want to remove the data pins on the back of the socket to give more space between the power pins.

Okay thanks bud that's kinda what i figured, and the milliamps from a phone charger shouldn't effect the kits, would it?

They seem to have someone technically minded choosing their products.

The silicone is very hard to remove.