So I was looking for a fishing reel gear video but man you got me into an endless pit of researching airsoft guns. I have actual firearms but holy smokes is this interesting.
I like that you showed working on a V6 gearbox instead of the standard V2. Maybe show a V7 or even something like a SVD gearbox (4 gears) in the future.
greasing the spring helps with reducing noise and vibrations. When it comes to break barrel airguns (not airsoft) there's a noticeable noise and vibrations. and that's just from one shot.
Great video, really helpful. This is slightly off topic but I was curious if you knew of any tricks to improve magazine feeding? The issue I'm encountering is with Stanag (M4) magazines.
You're forgetting about dielectric grease. It's good to grease certain electrical contacts with dielecteic to prevent corrosion, rust, and ensure contacts stay in good condition.
Thanks brother.. I just came back from the hardware store and had picked up that very same grease. Low and behold my grease is thumb-nailed on your vid. So I click and find exactly what I was previously looking for. I've heard of the government listening in and then dropping adds but must have had some secret service agent following me in store. Saw what I purchased and contacted RU-vid to chuck your vid in my face. The conspiracy deepens...
you grease the spring to preserve its life, makes it rust resistant, protects it from whatever it DOES touch, and it doesn't hurt a spring to grease it, and there are some benefits, no matter how small. Don`t think i am saying your advise i wrong, cause it isn't, i just lube my spring because it wont hurt, and i don`t mind the extra expense. Props to you though, legit videos, i subscribed yesterday, cause your videos are more information dense than most other videos i have found.
Springs are usually Stainless Steel, or Chrome Vanadium/Chome Silicone, and shouldn't corrode. They're not going to wear out from contacting the Guide or the Piston either. What grease will do, is attract and hold dust/dirt/debris that gets in to the Gearbox, which WILL cause wear.
I'm sure you have a ton of spare parts. It would be cool to see videos of what you can make from your various spare part bins. You could even sell them after you make the video.
The only point of contention I have with this, granted it's a very specific circumstance, is trigger contacts. Something with a high dielectric strength, such as Super Lube's silicone compound, can help cut down on arcing in systems that don't have a mosfet, extending the life of the trigger contacts.
How do we clean grease off a gate Titan v2 board? Exactly where do we position each wire in the motor harness from the trigger mech inside the gearbox (where does each cord go)? How/where do you fit the motor connector wires on the motor in the grip? Where should we use Teflon tape other than their inner barrel? (All M4 V2 rear wired) thank you
I have some weird gearbox v2 that is supposed to be "compatible with v3 gearboxes" - does the same parts that need greasing apply? They look pretty much similar
"Because anti-reverse latch work by friction" I could use an explanation there. Greasing the shaft could reduce the wear on it and I think it could damper the slight noise of the latch touching the rotating bevel gear. It also applies to your trigger shaft I guess, greasing it (a little) could help slowing down the wear (avoid greasing the contacts obviously). Same thing with your selector plate. As a general rule, greasing any moving part which are sliding/rubbing against another is a good think, since it reduces friction thus reducing wear. I'm no expert though, so please tell me why i'm wrong if I am.
I tend to look at greasing/lubricating things in two ways: 1) Will "x" theoretically wear out over time? (x being the anti-reversal latch in this case) and 2) Does it wear out over time? The answer to #1 is, of course, yes. But the answer to #2 is no. I have never seen an antireversal latch, or the gearbox that surrounds it, actually wear out over time. That's why I don't grease it. You may not be wrong on reducing sound, though.
Can you do an expansive video where you just explain the basics of how a gear box works, what the different parts do, and how to take apart/put together a common V2 gearbox? i am getting into air soft, and i have found out that it is easier to work on something mechanical when you know what certain parts do, and how the different parts work together to perform a specific function. ALSO, I am working twords being a Civil Engineer, and i hear you have a degree of knowledge in engineering, any suggestions of how to deal with the boring number crunching you often have to do in classes?
Grease attracts and holds any airborne debris that gets into the 'Box during use. The AEG Gearbox is basically just an Air-Pump after all,and the air comes in from the Environment it's being used in. All that dust/debris that goes in, sticks to the Grease, and basically turns it into a fine grinding paste. Anyone that's ever stripped a 'high-mileage' AEG Box will know the mess that they get inside. That's why I never use any Grease in my G/Box builds. Instead, I use a Dry Film Lube, Molybdenum Disulphide based. I use it on anything else that's subject to wear too, Piston Tracks in the Shells, ARL, Semi Cut-Off Lever etc. I never use Grease on the Piston Head either, for the same reason. I just squirt Silicone Spray directly into the Cylinder with a long thin Tube (passes through the Barrel & Hop) before and after each use, then dry-fire to get any excess out, then clean the Barrel and Hop Rubber with Cigarette Filters. It's like stripping, cleaning and re-lubing your Cylinder and Piston Head every time you use the AEG, but only takes a minute.
John Warner do you use dry spray grease like motor chain grease? Youre the first person that state my theory exactly like you explained and why we should use that kind of grease
No Sparklaus, I know the stuff you mean though. What I use is a liquid solution, it can be brushed on, or it's also available in Aerosol form. Google Molykote 321R. It cures to a fully dry coating that's extremely tough. It has to be applied properly though, and the prep is very important, as it is with paints and other coatings. Best surface prep is a light abrasive blasting, I made my own Blasting Pot, and Cabinet, similar to this one . . . ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1Z01aQ5VBNg.html
I use a very fine Abrasive Powder, it puts a very slightly matt finish on the surfaces, perfect for the Coating to bond to. Heating afterwards helps it cure.
I agree with you on the points you made, why not put a simple dust filter around the gear box than? i mean, if grime getting into the gear box is a problem, than make it airtight. than that makes a second problem, the gear box is an air pump, and needs air to function. so why not make a gearbox that pumps air to propel the BB, and than when it needs more air, make sure the air comes from one place that can easily be filtered with a simple dust filter. any thoughts on this idea? its seems solid to me except some minor issues with how to go about doing something like this, but, start a discussion on this.
I guess it would be possible, but the point of the dry film lube is that you don't need any grease at all. The pressure rating of the film is huge, way beyond the relatively low loading on the gears. Any dust/dirt that gets in doesn't do any harm.
I applied super lube to my gears but it won’t actually “stay on.” After re opening the gearbox, the synthetic grease is kind of vanished, no longer applied to the gears that I put it on..
Could you do a build with 18:1 gears with a dsg sector? The reason I ask is because I’m thinking of doing this myself to make a snappy trigger response but keep the rate of fire to a minimum.
all im saying is you said dont grease the piston im not saying you have to layer it but any moving parts that make contact with another you should grease it a small bit less resistance but when it comes to efficiency every little bit counts
Has anyone heard or seen any issues with using dielectric grease with electronics installed like the Titan Gate? What worries me is some grease has to fling off the gears and possibly cover light sensors and possibly cause a short in the circuit boards.
Dialectric grease shouldn't cause shorts (superlube is dialectric I'm fairly sure), but if you use too much it absolutely could fling off and cover the titan's optical sensors, yes. Very carefully applied film of grease preferred.
It really depends on how frequently you play. If you do full days 9-4 of playing, you should grease every 3 times you play. You could do it less if you live in an area with less dust but really it should be done every three months as a basis of when
I bought teflon grease to lubricate my gun but then i read somewhere that the teflon eats rubber parts. Some say it does, some say it doesnt, and some even say it "regenerates" the rubber. Im confused. I dont want to use it for the rubber parts in my gun if it can eat them up. Should i buy silicone grease for that or is it safe to use the teflon grease for everything?
Use silicone grease/lube or the ptfe lube he used. These lubes are plastic friendly. Most other lubes/greases (Lithium grease etc,..) are mineral oil based and break down plastic. Don't use any sprays or aerosol cans or whatever, the things use to pressurize it break down plastic as well. Only use bottles/tubes/pots,...
Old video, but one reason people grease springs is to reduce that "twang" noise you get. For example an AUG has a very "twangy" trigger and grip spring that benefit hugely from a liberal smearing of grease.
Michael Necker Here in Brazil the Krytac is sell like is the best of the best of airsoft, and Ares are the other option. These two brands are constantly compared with other here, like team Krytac versus team Ares. Your opinion will be welcome to resolve this fight haha. (Sorry the bad english)
In this fight im kinda on the Ares site. I just like systems with less parts to fail like a COL (which the EFCS doesn't have). I also never had any issues with ares-internals. Except one time my shell broke but that was purely my fault ^^
I hate saying this, but I'd have to go with Krytac on this one as I've worked on them before. Their parts are not as good as they could be but they are damn good for being stock guns. Krytac basically forced other companies to make better guns for lower price, which is the why they are seen as the best of the best (Which of course they aren't). As for ares, I've never really liked their guns, I don't know if it's just me, but I can't get myself to like them, I see them as inferior to many other ones. Just my 2 cents
For real machined parts you would clean the metal with an oil based cleaner. If you would clean your slide or barrel with oil, I'd probably suggest cleaning your gears with the same thing. Ballistol or CLP?
You should grease bearings too, but just make sure you clean them out from time to time as grease will keep metal particulates in there. Also note that bearings spin faster without grease, but it will wear the bearings down more quickly because now you have metal to metal contact with no lubrication medium.
Just use Brake Clean for cleaning my dude, way faster and more efficient than hot water. CRC makes a Dry Spray Moly lube too, which I personally prefer for my GB's, being in a dry, dusty climate. Then I use Dow Molykote 55 for all my O-rings, one tube has lasted years. You only need to use the slightest amount. Bearings I use Valvoline Palladium 5% moly grease.
It's easier to do that, but you dont get the same experience and knowledge that you would get doing it yourself. I would say do your own work, but if you screw everything up and want to give up, use a pro tech as a last resort.
It helps to know this information. I've had techs work on a few of our rifles and I disassembled it for inspection; and I've found anything from uncleaned yellow grease, to Teflon tape on the cylinder head where it contacts the piston. I've even seen low end bushings installed and loose gearbox screws. It's worth knowing what to look for, and modifying your gun will leave you smiling 😉
I have good air seal on my piston head's o-ring, but if I put silicon oil or grease on it, the air seal becomes pathetic and unusable. If I dry it, it works better. wut do?
Pssst, just use brake clean to clean the metal components. It’s literally designed to wash off oils, debris, etc, - and then dry immediately afterwards leaving ZERO residue.
Ball bearings are small when under 8mm. It is the same reason why most people will not use ball bearing inserts that have a cage, because you have smaller bearings which lose efficiency. Most airsofters will benefit from just steel bushings over due to simplicity of maintenance and reliability.
I decided to save a lot of time with that tiresome old gearbox greasing. I just tapped and threaded for a grease fitting, sticking out of the pistol grip. Saves time and man those gears are quiet!
if you were to upgrade a krytac mk 1 spr what would you do to it? I need to do some of these things on my own, and I keep hearing mixed things. you have not lead me wrong yet.
The krytac is going to be for outdoor play. So shooting close to 400fps is what I am looking for. I would like good accuracy and consistency. I don't normally use full auto so having good trigger response is a plus. I heard something that will help the krytacs feed is a sector delay chip as well as since I don''t use full auto a burst function might come in handy. I know for the burst function I would need a titan or similar mosfet installed. If that is the case I would not do that my self and have my local shop do it. (I don't have good history with the shops techs, so I would like to avoid them). I know I don't need a new mosfet so that is not a big deal for me just to have burst.
Installing the titan is easy as pie look up the video. If you have the money, go for it. Considering Krytacs are pretty good out of the box, the Titan is a great option. One of the things I'd change tho, it's the piston for an SHS/Rocket Swiss Cheesed blue piston, they are like 11 dollars or less. What I'd also recommend is to Rhop your stock barrel since they are pretty good, almost as good as prometheus, so upgrading your stock barrel would save you some money with almost as good performance. Go to Airsoft Teching Q&A on facebook, it's the biggest teching community and is always active. Any questions you have, go there and you might learn a little something else
Hey i know this is a 2 year old video but ... Superlube is nice dont get me wrong ok . With that said in my opinion it is #1 to thick and gets even thicker when cold . #2 is kind of expensive #3 is hard to get internet says home Depot has it on the shelf but ive never found it. So your forced to order it . With all that said in my opinion Lucas red and tacky is a superior lube . #1 It is a lithium based grease with ep lubricant and ptfe. #2 it is about the perfect thickness. Even with the grease literally frozen in the freezer it has about the same tackey ness so movement doesn't slow down. #3 and best part . Lucas red and tacky is available everywhere. Walmart, lows, home depot, hell even dollar general sometimes. #5 its cheap .i picked up a large tube of red and tacky sentheic for half ? Of what s.l cost me . Just my thoughts guys hope it helps someone.
You said you cleaned the parts? I saw dirty parts being greased. Less than stellar. Professionals use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the internals properly and completely. Super Lube is not the best for metal parts. OK for plastic & rubber, but you really want something with molybdenum disulfide to protect against wear on metal parts and gears. Use a dental irrigation syringe to precisely apply grease right where it needs to be. Your application method is kind of messy. You get paid to do this? LOL. Also your eyebrows are weird. They need work.
