Really useful video delivered in a non-patronising manner - great tips too, especially the smaller at the top of the hole than at the bottom hole tip ;) , nice one!
Thankyou very much mate. Appreciate the comment and its often over looked but making the base slightly wider, will reduce the chances of the posts leaning in the future.
About to replace the entire fence in my back garden next weekend so researching now. This video is absolutely fantastic, all key points covered. Super ✨
nice job mate. good tip for setting posts. dig your holes a little bit deeper so the post sits about 30-40mm lower than your panel in the bay....then when you put your first bag of mix in slowly lift the panel up to the correct height and the mix flows underneath and holds it if you get me. saves having to have the post in and out etc..
Installing the fence is for me the easy bit, what I really need a video or some advice on is how to attach a wooden gate to a concrete post, can’t find any information anywhere on the subject!
excellent tutorial! 1. my old concrete posts cracked and failed, I am going to replace them. Ive dug them out. but made a really big hole. do I need fill it all up with postCrete? 2. my posts are 9ft high - depth I need to dig?
Another great video :-) So when you finish fitting the fence on one side and need to make another side (for example fencing at a right angle / corner) How do you fit the post? The post doesn’t have a 4 side grove, so would you need to fit 2 x posts to start the new fence around a corner?
Thankyou 😁 you can buy corner posts. But if your corner is far from 90 degree then youre better off installing a double post here or the fence panels tend to pop out of the recess in the post.
Hello, I'm in the U.S. and don't think they sell the concrete posts around here. I might try making posts. Are the ones you used about 4" x 4" or 5" x 5"? And are the slots in the side for the wood, around 1" deep? Going by you saying the bottom concrete panel is 6", the post doen't look near that wide, so I'd guess 4" x 4", but don't want to be too thin if should be wider. I've seen some Indian and Asian videos of them making posts, but never have seen or got a answer on what dimensions they are. Anyway thanks for your instructional video and your fence looks great. Even if they sold the posts here, I'm wanting to go 8' above ground and horizontal boards, so will likely need to custom make longer 11'-12' long as well as maybe go a little deeper and wider concrete in the ground, idk. Just trying to find what is normal as a starting gauge to figure by.
I'm about to start this job in my own garden. First thing I noticed in your video was the wodden gate secured to the concrete post. Could you please tell me how you did this?
My metal gate always used to fall over when the wooden post it was attached to would snap after a few years. So we replaced the wooden post with a concrete one. The trick is, drill a couple of holes through the concrete post and then attach a long bit of 2x4 timber to it using some suitably long bolts to go through the timber and post and secure with some washers and nuts on the other side. Then you can screw your gate hinges to the timber as usual. Fixed mine around 16 years ago. Haven't had to touch it since. Also, I just noticed in this video, the gate is actually attached to the wall (look where the handle is), but the idea's the same. There's still a timber bolted to the post for the gate latch.
Great video - I learned a lot - Thank you. Maybe a newbie question, but if I was looking at building a fence for a total height of 6 foot, what height fence and fence posts should I get, please? (Taking into account the height of the concrete gravel boards as well, of course). Thank you
Thanks for another great video. I was wondering if you could still fence a boundary that has a slight bow in it using the same materials? Sadly our boundary isn't a straight line but wasn't sure it the slotted posts would allow for the panels to sit at a slight angle following the curve. Hope this makes sense. I look forward to receiving your opinion. Many thanks.
Depends on the angle. If it's small, you could get away with it, the slot's always a bit wider than the panel. If it looks like the panel might pop out of the post, then use double posts. i.e. keep the post in line with the panel, then have a 2nd post right next to the first one, but angled to continue the run for the next panel. You'd probably have to concrete both posts at the same time. I'd strap them together with some angled blocks to hold them at the correct angle while you work. If you want to be really clever, you could cast your own posts with the correct angles, but that's getting a bit fancy...
This is a brilliant video, thank you so much - all these tips I haven't seen on other videos, that are really important! Question, have you got any tips for getting old concrete fence posts out (too short and wonky) without creating a pond-sized hole? 🤣 And if you do end up with a large top-wide hole, what to do about it before putting the new fence post in? Many thanks again for a great video.
Your welcome mate. Do you really need to remove them. Or can you off set new posts from previous ones ? We normally just cut them down to ground level.
Thanks man. Its not always possible. All depends on the ground levels but i run a string line along the length i want to fence. Say 300mm off the ground. Then check the level of it with a big level. If its level then spot on if not then ill dig the gravelboard in as much as necessary then you can just level off each post. Hope that makes sence but its all about getting the first post perfect 👍
Yeah i would definitely pick concrete over wood posts. The first thing to rot will be the bottom of a woodenpost so youre adding years of life to your fence if you go for concrete. If you prefer wood 🪵 as some people do you can add a post saver. Heres a video i made about this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EzGLK_Te2yA.html
@@JamesMontana how many years does the sleeve add? Would you still need gravel boards at the bottom for the fence panels? Trying to go for a more natural look with wood flowing all the way round the garden, but don't want something that get beat up in 5 years.
@@MK-px3re its hard to give an exact time but it dies considerably increase the lifespan of a wooden post. For the extra cost its absolutely worth it. They only cost a few £ and should give you 5 more years if installed correctly.
Work from the top, downhill. Get 9ft posts instead of 8ft as youll be losing alot of the post depth because of the step on each panel. Depending on how much each step is you may want to go for a 1ft gravelboard or your panels will sit on the ground, on one side. Normally id recommend doing closeboard on arris rails as its easier when working on a hill. Hope this helps
@@JamesMontana Cheers, its a gradual rise, i wouldn't say its steep. Shame i cant show you a pic. I can't go any higher than 2m inc gravel boards due to planning rules, so ideally want to maintain the 2m height throughout if that's possible for privacy
Certainly not with concrete posts but its a myth that gravel helps with drainage. The fact is the post doesn't rot under the ground. Only when oxygen and water are both present does rot thrive.
Hi, I'm finishing my fence with concrete posts, concrete gravel boards. My last run of 4 panels will end with 19cm gap to neighbours fence on 90 degrees. What would you recommend as a solution?
@@JamesMontana any other solutions without buying additional panel / board? I was thinking just to buy some panel board and filling the gap or sticking additional post as I have a spare one or reducing last panel and building a gate with some additional timber that I would have to buy. What do you think?
@@mattbandura9015 will your fence finish in line with the neighbours post or between the panel? Yeah you could get another panel and cut it to fit the 19cm gap if its in line with a post. Or just secure it to the neighbours panel.
@@JamesMontana fence will end in the middle of neighbours fence so no way to join it really. I can leave my last wooden post from old fence and once I stick my last new concrete post just fill the gap with some boards without gravel board?
@@mattbandura9015 yeah of course you can do that. Just depends if you want to finish it like that. You have to live with it at the end of the day. Youll have to replace that one post someday. Why not just do it now.
What do you prefer to use for digging out old posts that were concreted in. I've done a few with a breaker but you can end up with larger holes than needed. Are those digging bars with chisel ends better ?
I absolutely avoid it whenever possible haha. But if you have to dig out the concrete a petrol power concrete breaker is your best bet. You cant avoid making the hole bigger whatever you use. You could try pulling the concrete out if the post isnt rotten.
@@Filmchippy just off set your new posts from the old. Chances are you had to cut the fence to fit on one end. Just switch it around and.work the other way. Just check where your new fence posts are going, as there may be even older fence posts in the ground.
@@JamesMontana haha yeah I would do that but the whole length of the garden and front must have been a brick wall years ago. So there's footings all the way lol. Nightmare when I did it 20 years ago I remember. At least I've got two grown up lads to help me now lol. Its only 9 panels just have to go for it 💪
Hi, I've ordered 8ft concrete posts, 6inch gravel board and 6ft panels. I've done the maths wrong I think I'm going to be over by 6inch. What's the best solution? Replace panels with 5ft?
@@JamesMontana Ideally wanted it to be 6ft. The panels I ordered are exactly the same as in this video at 6ft, I have 14 of them 😫 where I ordered from only have 5ft or 6ft as an option
Postcrete is too expensive if your setting in alot of posts Best to use ordinary cement and ballast much much cheaper and doest set too fast so you have longer to adjust your post if needed
Your fence posts aren't "level". They are plumb. If they were level they would be lying down. Sorry to be so picky but if we are to be professional we should use the correct terms.
