Install an Auxiliary Fuse Block Constant Hot and Switched  

One thing I wil say I DISAGREE with: you 100% should RETURN those USB plugs and get the HIGHER (4.8 AMP I believe) version.... almost NOTHING you’ll be carrying around every day uses that 1.0A output to charge... that output is like iPhone 5 power (YEARS AGO)... all the new devices START AT 2.1AMP and go up from there... if you can find an 18V usb (instead of 12v) with an integrated “smart” charge circuit that detects the device’s MAX safe charge needs, you’d be on the CUTTING EDGE and would have a TRUE “UPGRADE” that would be relevant and useful for several more years AND wouldn’t charge your mobile gadgets at a SNAIL’s PACE (until USB-A is completely phased out by USB-C) - speaking of USB-C, I’d also look for a port that includes one of these while you’re at it... almost EVERYTHING now charges via USB-C.... but when you use a USB-A on the other end, you’re only charging at the speed the “A” side can handle, and the “C” side becomes irrelevant. As for the “smart charging” integration, I know you can buy very cheap modules online (we’re talking under $10) that will protect and control the output once it has detected the capabilities of whatever device you’ve plugged in... they’re usually in the form of a PCB (microchip looking board) so you can easily tuck it away out of sight within your concealed wiring.. Over time, you’ll grow completely frustrated with the limitations you’ve placed on yourself with charge speeds of 1.0A & 2.1A as your devices charge 10x slower than they would at home (and sometimes NOT AT ALL w/ certain current tech gear due to the power being TOO LOW) - this is why I wanted to take the time to chime in about it. Hope this helps!

Where do I get that first fuse block. ?

No link for the main fuse block that protects the circuit?

Thanks for the help man. So, if I have accessories with inline relays I can eliminate those and the one 120 relay takes care of all of them? I have inline relays for my led headlights, an led light bar,fuel lift pump,and rear led cargo lamps

Really like your wiring set up, I’m very picky with my wiring myself and most never do a wiring job I would have in my vehicle. But yours is top notch job. Although I do agree with the comment on the usb plugs. You should get the higher power! I changed mine and it’s a world of difference how much quicker it charges! As they say, there’s always room for improvement!😂

I personally use an Escort Max 360C and have Google Maps going on my Android head unit. It's best to have both options going as the Google Maps, Waze (not recommended), and others rely on users to "tag" a cop location... Whereas my radar pinpoints them a couple miles in advance, giving me the option to "tag" them for those who only use mapping software. Good radar detectors have a higher chance of saving your ass than any app.

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you like it! Hope it helps!

That's why I am here! Like damn... I just asked someone on their live stream and stated that people shy away from showing this part

Exactly. Finally a thorough video

Was wondering the same

To trigger a relay it takes so little amperage that a fuse isn't needed.

You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.

Ferrule crimp sleeves do work great. I've used them often. In some circumstances I prefer them.

You are welcome, glad the video helped! Thanks for subscribing.

Glad I could help

If the device you're adding pulls more than ~15A, then I would most certainly run a relay (hook the load directly to the battery, hook the low amp trigger for the relay to the fuse box) instead of pulling the power for the device directly from the fuse box. To make live easier when needing to connect a high amp device directly to the battery: I installed a positive buss bar. You connect a buss bar to the battery once, then connect your high amp devices directly to the buss bar instead of the battery post. Mine has 8 posts on it. I also installed a negative buss bar. Again, the point of the positive and negative buss bars are to make it easy to connect something that you would otherwise connect directly to the battery posts. You can only stack so many things on those battery posts.

I would only ground to the frame or battery direct like using whats pictured in the video, if you’re running wires it’s just alot easier to run a single wire from the battery to a fuse box and ground any accessories to the fuse box if theres ever an issue or troubleshooting needed you’ll be better off

In general, fuses hold up better than breakers as there are no parts that can become faulty. Yeah it's a pain in the ass to have to replace the fuse, but it's better than a breaker not working when it should and potentially starting a fire.

I totally agree with Diego. Just keep extra fuses. If you blow a fuse ... figure out why. Thanks for dropping in!!

LOL ... Not the first time I've heard that. 😂

Its in the top pinned comment. Thanks for checking out the vid.

Yes you are absolutely correct. In my rush in getting this done I went totally off track on that.

Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it!

Glad I could help!

Glad the video helped!

How’s your sniper system running on your 1970 Cutlass? Helping a friend get his started soon with super sniper installed.

@@cutoversoldspartsguys3377 It is going pretty well. I have the Hyper Spark and Ignition Coil and Box installed. I am having issues with a little electromagnetic interference within the engine bay, but still trying to sort that out. But overall, still liking the Sniper system. Hope your is going well!

It is a really handy set-up. I have used it several times now since installing it. Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you!!

Nope .. its a very good question. If you put the LEDs on the "switched" circuit it shouldn't drain your battery. If you wire the "constant on" fuse block you will have to add switches to your LEDs to prevent draining the battery. Hope this helps!!

@@Poweraddicts thank you, it does help.

LOL .. Its Tennessee for ya. It can be clear one moment and crazy weather the next. I don't remember which video it was but on day one there was like 3" of snow, the next day was t-shirt weather and the snow was melting. Glad the video helped you and you liked it so much!!

Yes. The black wire coming off the relay will be grounded, the other goes to whatever switch source you want to tap. Find a fuse on your vehicles fuse box that turns on when the key is in the ignition or turned on, insert just a single fuse tap into that, which connects to your relay. You will obviously need to insert a new fuse into that fuse tap, and it really isn't going to matter what amp fuse you use. It's only mission is to allow current to that relay. Just pop in a 10amp and call it good (while also inserting the fuse you pulled to insert the tap... Into the tap). The advantage here is that instead of adding a fuse tap for every accessory you add, you can just connect to your new switched fuse block. Simple, fast, safe, and clean.

Assuming you mean this one? amzn.to/3XQSqfm . Honestly it is a matter of preference between a replaceable fuse and a resettable breaker. I have used the breakers many times. The Jeep Cherokee XJ Camper trailer I am building now (videos coming soon) will have the resettable breakers in it.

Sure, You can switch it anyway you want. I used the fuse block just so I didn't have to use another switch. Hope that helps!

Adapter to mount to the intake. Then figure out how the throttle cable will work with the carb. I know that is overly simplified and really doesn't help. But that is one of those things that cant really be explained in a message. I've done it to a few GM trucks. It can be easy or very involved, it just depends on the set up.

It's really a matter of preference honestly. I do like the resettable breakers and use them often. The XJ camper trailer I'm building now (videos coming soon) will have some in it.

Here ya go: Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI

Thanks. Amazon is a swamp to find something specific.

Here ya go: amzn.to/4eBmVeR . I need to update the links in the video as well. Have a great day!!

Here ya go: Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI

You can just keep the total load in mind to prevent adding too much to this added circuit.

You can if you want.

Go for it!

Yep, as long as the blower fan has its own switch.

It is just tripping the relay so it takes a mear fraction of an amp to trigger a relay to turn on.

To piggyback on that answer can I use a fuse tap and connect to a 5 amp or 10 amp fuse?

It only takes a few milliamps to trip that relay. If you want to put a fuse inline you can use a 5 amp and that would be more than enough.

@@Poweraddicts thank you so much

Here ya go: Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI

Glad it helped

You can out it anywhere you want. That is up to you. Thanks for checking out the video!

They work great!

If you are referring to the wire coming from the fuse box that turns the relay on, I didn't put one in it. It takes mere milliamps to turn on a relay so one really isn't needed. If you want to add one, a 1 amp fuse will be more than enough amzn.to/47DhTMH . If you are referring to the main large wire from the battery to the relay, that size fuse will be determined by the total load you will be adding to the distribution blocks. So I can't tell you what size to use for that one.

Can a fuse tap be used?

If the accessory pulls more than 15amps I would.