There was one thing we forgot to address in this video. It's an optional addition as the screw placement shown in the video will work fine. When you are installing the first and last sheet it's a good idea to add one extra screw in the low of the corrugated panel at both sides of the gable. It's located within the FIRST SHEET PLACEMENT OF THE LINKED VIDEO at about the five minutes and 35 second mark. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hQM-bDFm-PE.html
Here in Australia, we do not lay down that adhesive tape otherwise we install the same as this video. And these guys in this video are not predrilling holes to install the screws.
@@robertbutler8004 Hi Robert do you pre drill the sheets before you put them up on the roof? I'm about to put my own roof on and still learning how to do it. Also the old roof has old Decramastic metal tiles on it And the purlins are quite small but at 260 centers. Is it ok to screw a new corrugated onto those? Thanks George NZ
If you’re saying drill your screws on the high part of the corrugated roof panel, then what size screws should we be using so that screw will safely secure into the purlins?
Work measurements methods/standards for contractor billing ? What is procedure ? Is overlap area deducted from total area =no of sheetxroof sheet area ? Or total area measures as many sheet installation done ?
The metal sheets in the video - what is the distance in inches between the apex (from underneath) of the 'highs' of the sheet and the surface of the plywood substrate? Given that measurement, what length and diameter of metal screw do you recommend? Suppose we substitute the plywood for 1x4" timber (called 'lathing' in my corner), how long should the screws be? Of course this didn't matter when galvanized nails were in fashion. One just pounded them in with a hammer until the caps ('umbrellas') hugged the ridge of the sheet.
Jack, The 7/8” corrugated is 7/8” high with a 2.67 pitch which is the distance from center of the high to the next high corrugation.. Yes can install on wood lathing. Would just need to make sure if not installing on a solid substrate that the wood lathing is spaced properly to carry the load of the sheeting. 2" wood screws would need to be installed into the highs of the panels. Here is a link to a load chart www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/docs/78-corrugated/78-Corrugated-Load-Chart.pdf Here is a link to a screw placement video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wMdOnxBmu0E.html Hope this helps Paul Rubio
Shouldn't the screw spacing have been determined when you derived your negative design pressure test failure reading when you performed your ASTM E1592 testing? The screw spacing should be exactly as it was during the test. Location of the screws will also be the same as the test data. Why would the customer need to employ an engineer?
I'm making an outdoor 6 x 2 ft rabbit cage with a back-to-front-sloping corrugated sheet roofing. I am leaving an 8 inch breadth of sheet outside of the cage's frame on the top front to prevent rain and sun from getting inside the cage from the front. How much sheet should I leave in the top back to protect the cage from behind?
Hi, an outstanding set of videos. Clear and easy to understand. I am particularly pleased to learn about the foam strip that fits between the fascia and the roof. I live in a rural location in New Zealand and have been looking for a solution to stop small birds getting into the roofspace via that open gap. Problem solved. Now to check if local building reg's allow the foam and then where to get it over here. Do you export perhaps?
Allan, I appreciate the positive feedback. We could ship the foam closures to New Zealand, but it would be expensive. Here are your two best options: A. Call a metal roofing manufacturer and if they sell to the public they will have the foam in stock. B. Call your local roofing supply center as they normally have access to this. Have a great day.
It's called profile foam in NZ. You can buy it from the roof manufacturers but it's made by ampelite or ansylite depending on your roof. It's about $5 a metre. Side note I'm blown away by the differences in best practice between USA and NZ. One example is that we only lap our sheets one corrugation and don't use butyl tape.
You seem to have missed sealing the corrugations against bats, birds, or other animals. What do you recommend that would keep the air circulation which is a benefit of the corrugations?
Are you saying nails in the low seams? If so this is a recipe for disaster as the nails do not have the rubber sealing washer and are not controllable in installation pressure.
Silly question: do you drill a hole then, if you are setting the screws on the top of the hill? Or use a jig to guide the screw? Seems like it will be difficult to get the roofing screws to drill through the metal without skipping around, if they aren’t put in the valley.
Pre-drilling the sheets is an option, but not a requirement. The screws that you use will be self drilling and when used in conjunction with a quality screw gun it will work fine fastening in the center of the high. Here's a video on pre-drilling the screws: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RApotTZu2uE.html
Ok, thanks! I’m pre drilling holes with a bit, but I only have a cordless drill. It’s just a shed roof and the shed is already old. (And I may have smashed my knuckles a couple too many times with those damn self-drilling screws.) Thanks for the tips.
My elderly mother is being quoted $8000 and $6000 from two different roofers to replace her metal corrugated roof on an open back porch (where her firewood is stored). This seems crazy high to me as it's about a 10x12 roof. I can buy pieces of 2x12 metal corrugated from Lowes for $29/each. How in the world can it possibly cost $6000-8000 for this job? Is she being suckered??
I don't know the job specifics. However, the price seems absurd. Your issue is the size of the job. Any roofer that's good is busy and there's no money to be made on such a small job. Small jobs are done by handyman. However, handymen usually aren't qualified to install metal roofing. Your between a rock and a hard place.
I have an approximately 45 foot x 10 foot (ridge to eave) awning. If I'm looking to install western rib, is it preferable to order single 10 foot panels or, for example, a 6 foot panel and a 4'6" panel, overlapping them to prevent any unnecessary cutting with small imperfections in the awning dimension?
I have a very old garage that I'm roofing to be a chicken house. The roof is arched (slightly). Do I lay the sheets sideways for an arch? Bottom one first?
The sheets will only curve the easy way, but that might mean the water drains the wrong way. Nobody will curve a small job for you. Good luck with the project.
Derick, Western Rib has a wider low and the screws will go in the low. I have attached a screw placement diagram link. www.cortenroofing.com/docs/pdf/western-rib-screw-placement.pdf?__hstc=187130103.a0187661f72c773f5bf5b6ae0b342094.1589055209040.1599676704423.1599681083514.216&__hssc=187130103.2.1599681083514&__hsfp=1886519386
Had a buddy I was working with adding a corr. roof over a walkway and he kept going on about how long he'd been in construction (hard head) and he was putting the screws in the valleys I kept saying hey man that will trap debris as it had very little fall and sure enough after a few yrs. There is only one thing worse than a hard head and that's a dumb ass hard head.
@@FinehomesofNewHampshire it was catching debris big time I just used longer screws and put em on the high point. the issue was not much fall in the flow line plus he put caulking around and that made little dams that caught trash
@@FinehomesofNewHampshire Well, I guess I'll find out who's right...about 2 year ago I installed a panel by drilling in the valleys. This last weekend I had to replace the water rotted plywood underneath the corrugations due to leakage through the washered screws - not to mention the accumulation of pine needles and leaves in all the valleys. The new roof is now drilled through the peaks. I'm putting my money on the the mountain top.
Garbage the row of screws closest to the gutter should be fitted on every second corrugation to help against wind uplift.That installation would be condemned in Australia.
Metal roofing is normally installed on a wood substrate or metal purlins. Usually "Cee" purlins. Here's a link: www.westernstatesmetalroofing.com/galvanized-metal-c-purlins.html
In instances in which the screws are not the same color as the tin it's done so you can see the screws better. It's hard to get a good visual with a white panel and a white screw.
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?
Chad, I appreciate the comment. This is one of those installation methods in which both are correct installation methods. If you we're to look at the installation manuals for many different manufacturer's some would recommend the screws in the highs and some in the lows. Lows = Better attachment, but less weather-tight. Highs = More weather-tight, but lesser attachment. Also just to clarify we are only recommending this attachment method for wavy corrugated and not an exposed fastener panel such as PBR Panel, U Panel, etc.
Hi Chad. I am owner of a competing company to Western. However, one must ask the question why? Why are some on the top and some on the bottom? Why do you say all screws in corrugated go in the troughs? I may be able to help explain. Top of the corrugation allows for more ample expansion and contraction and will allow the exposed fastener to remain solid for a longer period of time, as well as remove it from the water. BUT.......and here is where it usually leaves the "roofer" behind; what does the manufacturers ASTM E1592 negative design pressure test reveal? Was the test completed with the screw in the top or the trough, what size screw, how often on center? Was an ASTM 330/331 also performed with the original test? If so, where was the screw placement during these tests? If the end user wants the panel to perform as tested, then they MUST use the exact same screw placement in order to have a UL rated roof. UL uses the original ASTM testing data to grant the UL listing of metal roof products. These tests are completed as an assembly of products, ie (how many screws, where placed, type of screw, #10 in plywood? ) #10 screws have not passed an ASTM test yet by any manufacturer in plywood, only #14. When you deviate from the tested assembly application, you now put your customer at risk of not being insurable by most home insurance companies, as well as product failure. The most aggressive insurance company to know about this is State Farm. If you install a metal roof that is not UL rated as a result of a claim, state farm will deny the second payment and your customer has every right to demand it be fixed, or not pay you. It is very important that you and all roofers become familiar with metal roof testing to insure you are installing an approved system. Western Metal Roofing recommends installation techniques commensurate with their testing. If these tests seem foreign to you, reach out to me on LinkedIn and I can help get you more resources so you can learn the "whys" of how these systems came to be. I can also familiarize you with all the current testing criteria and how it relates to specified projects as well. Before moving into manufacturing I installed roof systems as a subcontractor for the Dept of Defense, Army Corp of Engineers worldwide for 43 years. I am happy to share that knowledge and experience. smoats@metaldt.com
@@aoyinc i know it seems counter intuitive to put the screws in he troughs due to the water running there, but you have to have the screws fastened as tight to the deck as possible due to thermal expansion and contraction. when the screws are at the top of the corrugation you have to have a really long screw to hit the deck and you are giving the panel way way more room to lift as the screws back out. same with propanel. here in colorado we have to go back and tighten screws after about 5 years, then go up the next larger size after a few tightenings. i usually start with 5/16ths fat boys but many people will allways start with 1/4 inch heads so they can move up to 5/16ths fat boys. also the neoprene collars wont seal well at the top of the corrugation as it is convex rather than concave wich will seal... in some areas the panels wont have as much problems with thermal exp/cont as here where we are roofing at 7-10k feet of elevation and the temps can be 100 plus to neg 30. but mainly its the seal of the neoprene collar. sorry if i offended anyone-wasnt trying to talk smack and hope all you fellow roofers out ther have a merry christmas or what ever holidays you are celebrating this time of year
