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I just got mine today, and when leveling with the creality bl touch, I noticesd that it sits lower than the level and I can't level that bed at all with out the bed pushing up on the hotend.
So far, Zero issues. I don't use it a TON, but haven't had any problems. I DO use the Spider 3 a ton, and it's my favorite hot end so far. Clean prints, every time. Not a single clog yet
I noticed that there is a black and a red wire on the new speedy spider heater wire, and the factory heater wire has 2 red. Does the polarity matter on the heater wire when hooking it up?
Thanks for the video. I have seen some other folks having issues with theirs, thankfully I have not had problems with mine and I am loving this hot end. I was wondering what retraction settings are you using with the speedy spider?
I do appreciate your videos (Thumbs up) but you would get longer watch times and more views if you also included some results segments in these videos. I know that the videos would take longer, but I think the lifetime of the videos would be worth it.
With 3 Partnered YT Channels, over 2000 videos, millions of views, and endless analytics available on YT, I promise, even if Jesus Made an appearance, I wouldn't get longer retention. I'd be talking to myself by the end. People like shorter, focused content. Drop off is 80ish% in the first minutes of any YT video. Plus, results are the result of a landslide of factors. That said, I share my printing and work, multiple times a day on my Insta and other YT. @GreggAdventure. ✌🏼
I have a problem with setting the temperature. PID doesn't help It does not heat the nozzle during printing. Still missing 10*C The standard HOTEND works without any problems. Spider 4.0 works beautifully except for this E1 temperature error
E1 typically means the Thermistor has a problem, or isn't connected. If your get an "not heating as expected" error, try this: Turn your fan down to 90% when slicing. And test again. Mine failed EVERY PRINT, till I made that change. Zero fails since.
Why is your fan on 0%? Should be %100, however I found I got the error, unless I used 90%. I'm talking about slicing for PRINTING (FYI, I switched to Spider 3)
iv installed the speedy spider, i cant dial in my retractions whatsoever! i used to have great prints, is there a trick to these all metal hotends or do i have a faulty one!!! thank you sir!!! used to run 6 60mm speed, now it looks the best, which is super stringy at 2 and 30mm!!!! i dont want to give up on this ender since i had it from the start of this hobby!!!
I am just a little confused is it plug and play or do I need to splice the wires on an ender 5 plus?? I thought i heard you say you can just plug it in and you're done.
Yes. Many models will connect directly too the included harness. At launch, this information can often be hard to confirm, or, straight up wrong. So, I try to cover the bases for self splicing.
Does the fan duct fit properly after swap to this extruder? I have impression the nozzle is a bit lower and air blows on it, not on the filament.Greate movie by the way.💪💪💪
So I got this hotend. I can’t get it past 7.2 mms cube flow rate. If I increase the temp to 280 it works but then I can’t really print with it since everything just droops and looks fucked. Wtf am I doing wrong? With a stock kobra go hotend I can push 17 mms cube. This spider was literally almost the same cost as a brand new kobra go
It looks good and I only have one concern. It looks like the heater cartridge and thermister are not replaceable. It looks like you would have to buy a new hotend if you damaged one of the wires somehow.
4 is much closer to the current design, seen in all the modern 3D printers. However, in my experience, (and others), there have been some issues with the heating element. The Pro 3, is a TANK. It will hold up to abuse, and never let you down. It's also, yes, easy to service. The 4 will heat faster, but, who cares.
Sonic Pad. It's an easy setup, and the printer is instantly like a new machine. It's NIGHT AND DAY. Sonic Pad, is the way, PERIOD. Grab a used one or on sale. You'll be up and running in 30 min, and after a short learning period, you'll wonder HTF you lived without it.
Awesome. I put it off for MONTHS, cause I didn't believe in it. Boy was I so wrong. You'll love it on your 5+. Just be patient as you learn the ropes. And remember the new GCODE for ABL! G28 ;Home BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default
I’ve installed mine but after having near perfect prints on my stalk hotend this one I havnt gotten a single print nor does it adhere to my pei bedsheet
Because I have a fancy expensive tool. Might as well use it. 😛😛 Plus I can control exactly where the heat contacts, and the exact temp. It produces superior work. Also, my butane lighter ran out my on my very first take. 🤣😂🤣
Agree. I try to show methods that the average person can do, as well as what instructions show, if there are any... Solder would totally be a better choice. Greetings from NJ USA
@@petercallison5765 and a crimped cable has no change in the resistance... basically crimped cabels have a higher inner resistance then soldered ones. keyword contact resistance... but you should know how to solder. 95%+ do not know how to do it.
Hi Friend. I'm running SONIC PAD on the 5+. You should too. It's a quick and easy setup. It will bring your 5+ up to modern standards. Klipper has a small learning curve, but, if you don't go crazy trying to push the machine super fast, and all that, it's easy, and you shouldn't fear it at all. I 1000% suggest you go SONIC PAD on the 5+. Otherwise, use TH3D. But.... Go Sonic Pad. Used on Ebay will do.
PID tuning on my ender 3 results in thermal runaway but if i just tell it to heat to 200 or 220 for that matter it will reach tempature and stabilize without thermal runaway. Is this a firmware bug? The tuning seems decent enough already right off the bat because the tempature stays within a degree or so. What are your thoughts? One thing i noticed too is that with my hotend once i tell it to heat up it will reach around 120 degrees in only about 5 seconds, in crealitys video showcasing the heatup time they too have their hotend heat to 120 degrees instantly and then they have a steady rise. With yours there seems to be no spike in tempature and just a steady increase the whole way through.
I would avoid Creality Firmware as much as possible and go with something like MRISCOC. Also, I wouldn't lose sleep over PID tuning. However It shouldn't be failing like that.
Nozzel came off and tightened with no issue. Where did you end up with your reaction setting with this HE on your E5+? I figured that it would be the same as my Microswiss but definitely not.
Know the wattage of the heater? I’m running the Mriscoc FW, and it uses MPC, and while it claims to complete the auto tune, it sets everything to 0.000 and that prevents the hot end from working. I tried adjusting wattage up, that seems to help the auto tune curve… Maybe. Still haven’t gotten a completed run that actually gave settings. Either way, I found some settings for a 65w hot end, that may work well enough to at least get working for now.
Do you have any issues printing with PLA on the spider all metal hotend. I installed a Micrswiss all metal hotend and direct drive and every time I try printing with PLA it cloggs the hotend. So I only use PETG now which I have had no issues with.
Thanks so much. I'm using TM3D, it's a massive improvement, and the install is not terribly complex. Take your time and do the Screen 1st!. #SuperThanks
@@3DRundown That's what is confusing me. The ceramic heating element has cooling fins around it in the lower portion. If those fins touch the heater it would actually be cooling the heater and be pretty bad for performance. That's why I'm wondering if they touch or not.
I wouldn't do it. These ceramic hot ends are the future, but I had problems with 2. Go for a Spider 3. Really excellent hot end. However, your stock hot end is OK also. Eventually it will wear down, get gunky, and become a problem. Spider 3 is the way to go
Is the size of the speedy hot end the same as the stock hotend of an ender 5 plus? I have the og spider hot end and it's way bigger than the stock so my bL touch doesn't reach the bed before the nozzle and my nozzle is crashing into the bed. Not sure how to correct this. I tried adjust the bL touch with a bracket but then the bL touch crashes on the support brackets to the left when bed leveling 😮💨
A spacer will fix your problem. I have a video on that. However, ditch that slider and get a spider 3 (not the speedy. It fits, but I have had problems). SPIDER 3 is normal size, and will work with no modification.
Awesome video, thanks. I have an Ender 5 plus, and Im deftly will add the new hot-end!!! Question: your Ender 5 plus firmware seems more complete and better than mine, what is your firmware version? mine is 1.70.2 and it sucks! Thanks
Brother, forget the firmware. Put a Sonic Pad on it. 15 Min setup and off you go. However, the firmware that WAS on it (just a static screen now) was TH3D, and it's worlds better than stock. Now it has Klipper flashed to it, via the Sonic Pad, but the screen stays like that, as it's no longer used. Sonic Pad becomes your screen
The V3 is a really great hot end. I think their best. Will see how the Speedy holds up. Having no Heat Block is kinda cool. But the "Speedy" refers to the Ceramic Heater, giving it a fast heatup. I don't believe Speedy has a HF Nozzle on it. I think it's an MK8. Spider 3 Does.
Can you do a firmware update or upgrade for the ender 5 plus? I put insanity firmware, then tried going back to stock. All I get is either Chinese and buttons don't work. Or English and buttons don't work.
Creality firmware is awful, and the most recent version has a language but. You'd want to go back one, but, I wouldn't even do that. Put a Sonic Pad on it. It's an easy setup, and works great. It's like going from a Potato, to a super computer
Just installed Spider Speedy on my ender 5 plus Stock setup I plugged the extension cable between the thermostat to the backside of the printer “without soldering”. Plugged the heater with the extension till the backside then soldered it. I’m using Marlin FW It is working great so far With the old stock hotend I was suffering from temp runaway and clogging and fluctuations of temperature Now I’m looking for the best way to update the firmware to 300 degrees Any advice?
Just finished a long print for an Uber Jason X Machet, and it went perfect. Haven't used it a TON yet, but, so far so good. I'm doing an E3 MAX next. What's your symptoms?
@@3DRundown I had mine replaced twice. This is my third spider speedy and still having heat creep. What I did to solve the heat creep issue, is to use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for the heat break, heat sink, and the ceramic heater block.
Hi so I have a ender 5 plus and Im fairly new at wiring, do I need to do the crimping and wiring he does between the hot end and the existing wiring? or was that to just show how to do for those who wanted the option? If I do need to do it, does someone mind explaining what all the different wires do?
For the Speedy Spider, the wires are pre-installed and very short. You just crimp the 2 red wires for the heater. The 2 white's are the Thermistor. Nothing else needs to be touched.
Giving up on this extruder... went through 2 already... clogs VERY easily. Clogging was the reason I ditched the stock hotend... The nozzle does heat up really quickl;y and the nipple guard is great. Other than that, not that special. Still looking for a good replacement for the stock hotend. Any recommendations would be welcome.
My Spider 3 have never clogged. I use it every day. However, your Speedy shouldn't be clogging either. But I am having heating issues with it. Not yet sure if the hot itself, or a wiring thing. Maybe your retractions too high? Should be 5ish. Spider 3 is Super. I may put one on my 5+.
@@3DRundown this is precisely what I was thinking. Retraction or heat creep. I’ve avoided doing a Hero Me because I wanted to keep the printer as stock as possible as long as have the stock gantry. I was going to return this second heated today but I may try to pull it apart and fix it just to test before I get another.
You didnt mention anything about thermistor settings? I installed this on my klipper build and I am having my printer disconnect over and over ever since installing it. I think it is because of my thermistor....
I am running TH3D Firmware on my 5+ and made no changes at all. It's been amazing. There may be changes you need to make on Klipper. I'd have to study up on that one. Feel free to pop into my Sonic Pad group and chat with the peeps there. facebook.com/groups/crealitysonicpad
@@3DRundown Thats very suspicious. I trust that you are printing just fine, but I have serious doubts that your nozzle is actually the reported temperature you think it is. Today I am going to set my thermistor back to the stock settings and see what happens. Thanks for the input.
@@ThePrintHouse this seems to be a common problem with the hotend that I, and many others are experiencing. If I set my print settings to 260c I can get good quality prints, where if the nozzle was actually 260 degrees the print would look terrible. Something must be going wrong on crealitys end.
@@expertshooter2055 Well every thermistor is using different resistors in order to produce the readings it does, so every resistor is calibrated differently. That is why you need to change the firmware to recognize a different thermistor or else the temperature your 3d printer believes it is is incorrect. In Klipper that is easy to change, not so much with stock marlin printers without custom marlin compiled firmware. Because this hotend can reach higher temperatures than the stock hot end, they were required to use a different thermistor than the stock hotend and so anyone installing this on a typical machine without klipper will likely need to custom compile their firmware to get accurate readings.
Hi there! Thanks for the video! Iam installing the spider speedy now on my Ender 3 max neo. But how do you know witch orange wire for the heating element is positive and negative? Or doesn't that matter?
@@3DRundown yes when I mounted the spider speedy the nozzle is unable to touch the bed the autolevel sensor will hit the bed first. And I learned that it's really important that the tube is tight against the nozzle.....still learning :)
@3DRundown I have the spider 3 pro hotend now for around 4 months. And till now it worded will but for 1 or 2 weeks now I can not finish any print anymore - it starts clogging ….. any methods works for 1 or 2 prints maybe. What is your experience with the speedy spider after 4 months?
No clogs yet on my Ender 3 Max with Spider 3. I print on it almost every single day. Have your Slicer settings changed? Could be retraction settings? But I'd start by looking at your Bowden tube to see if it's scorched or deformed, and, consider a new nozzle
I'm having a tough time with that call. I really like the Spider 3, and I like that the heat Block and Coupler can be easily replaced, but, if this thing holds up, it's 1000% the future of Bowden Hotends. Till some time passes, it's a tossup, but I see no reason NOT to get one, yet....
Hey, nice video! I recently upgraded my E5+ to this hotend. As you said it comes with a .4 and a .8 nozzle. Have you changed the nozzle after use? I am going to put a .6 on but am not sure where or if I need to hold with pliers while changing. With my other all metal ends I need to hold the block in place so it doesn't spin. Any tips?
@@3DRundown Nozzel came off and tightened with no issue. Where did you end up with your reaction setting with this HE on your E5+? I figured that it would be the same as my Microswiss but definitely not.
I'm Running Sonic Pad on my 5+. It hasn't missed a beat since the day I turned it on. Setup was like 10 min, and at the time, I had never used Klipper before. I assure you, 5+ works on Sonic Pad.
I am having the exact same issues. I am running a BTT SKR 3 along with upgraded firmware. No matter what adjustments I make on this damn thing, it reaching about 10* below the requested temp and then fails. It is really becoming a pain right now.
@@3DRundown set it at 200° and it still can't melt PLA have to set it at 220. Then while printing temperature fluctuates wildly. Thought it was because I had the CR touch inside the fan shroud so remove that and was still doing the same thing although not as bad.
This seems to be a common problem with the hotend as I have seen multiple issues with this issue. I am having the same problem and I'm thinking of just returning this thing and buying the spider v3.
