Thank you for the video. Just what I was looking for. A video showing Daytime Running Lights with and without Can Bus, and showing the different brightness when switch to and from high beams and Daytime Running Light modes. Keep it up
Hi dialfast, I bought Sanvi 3" projectors A6L biled laser projector and I have Hyundai Elantra 2013, and I don't know how to set the Canbus,,,I don't know how to connect the wires, canbus direct to the projector? Any guidance or information will be welcome, good day
But wait, when LEDs installed, does your DRLs still supposed to come on even before installing a decoder? I have this issue with my Monte Carlo..I have LEDs in but DRLs won't come on..how to fix??
I have a question i have a 2008 odyssey and i wanna upgrade my running lights headlights and fog lights do i need canbus for all or just running lights
I have a question if it can please be answered. I’ve got a 2011 Jeep Patriot and I’ve bought two different sets of led lights from two different dealers and my lights flash and blink and go off. So how do I fix that. Do I need something like the box ur talking about? I don’t know anything about cars. I’m calling a car shop tomorrow I go to but I ran across This video
I got led headlights for my 2010 Mazda 3 and only the high beams work? I believe the daytime running lights and high beams are on the same bulb. Will this help at all?
Your comment is old but I'll respond with my own experience. Not all LED lights will need a CANBUS Decoder. Some LED headlights have internals that either include such components or have a power draw close enough to what your car's computer/ECU will be looking for thus not popping up an error message. So it will depend on the exact ones you get and install.
So I got the canbus adapter and it gets hot to about 170F. There are no mounting holes or anything so I just have it resting where it falls. Unfortunately on the passenger side this is the window washer fluid container. Is this hot enough to melt it?
Daniel McDonald I doubt it because that part of the car is suppose to get hot, have you ever popped the hood open while driving for a while, it’s super hot. Plastic melts at 500 degrees and I don’t think they put cheap plastic in cars where it gets hot they probably have some durable stuff in there
This is long after your question, but 170F is quite hot. That definitely can melt plastic. Anything softer than ABS plastic that is. I would wrap mechanic's wire tightly around the canbus's housing and use pliers to twist the connecting points of the wire. Leave a lot of extra wire on the end of the twisted together wire to mount the canbus to the header panel or rad support. (Really, anywhere that is steel and away from plastic and wires and your rad fan) ;-)
The Autoone LED lights listed in the description doesn't come with an external decoder, but many people have found them to work well with Honda vehicles without issue.
When I install led for the blinkers it blinks super fast and the arrows dont show up on the dashboard do I need the decorder. By the way I have a European car dacia sandero stepway plus 2021
That's what I was wondering. I thought the video was going to explain where to hide those things. I just taped them with electrical tape as far from the engine as possible... but I have a feeling It's not going to last
I install decoder it works for drl but when i turn on headlight it gives again check headlight lamp message what could be the problem?? I haven't change high beam is it because of that?
I boyght the hb3 9005 led plug and play fo my toyota highlander 2006. The DLR is not on when I realese my brake. It only work on high beam. What do I need to fix this error. The honda on your video just shown that you clear the DLR message on dash board. Mine is different I don't have the DLR indicator appear. The thing is not on for the DLR
What am I missing? your LED on High Beam at 6:05 looks DIMMER than the Halogen at 3:25! Also, the DRL is MUCH brighter than the stock halogen DRL mode. Are you still using these LEDs 3 years later?
I bought these and they barely reduce the output of the bulb and pretty much run at full power. You can notice about a 5-10% increase/decrease in light output when the high beams are turned on in comparison to the DRL’s. Any suggestions?
@@SaintNick289 I have basically abandoned the idea of having dual function DRL and High Beams. Those that work in these modes are way, way overpriced and not that bright either (I've got 30,000 X-7Seven Apollos and and 40,000 lumen YKHOMs LEDs in my projectors and they are amazingly bright, without the glare). Instead, I've bought SOCAL Switchback LEDs to replace my existing Signal/Parking lights. Funny you just posted this, as I received the switchbacks a few weeks ago and was planning to do this project today, but it's raining. Basically, I'm planning to cut the front parking light bulb circuit and feed a new 12V wire from a relay powered on by the DRL warning light circuit, cutting its wire off from the DRL warning bulb on the dash. This way, when the DRL is called for, the DRL bulbs in the switchback would be turned on though the new relay powered on by the DRL warning bulb circuit, while the bulb itself would be permanently turned off on the dash. In essence, the parking lights would be transformed into DRLs and there would be no more DRL warning light on the dash, but I would have no more parking lights at night. But first, I'll see how they work at night as a parking/signal light and see if the DRL bulbs are tolerable and don't glare other drivers, because they are very bright. If they work this way, then I'd simply turn my parking lights on during daytime, which is not a bad idea anyway. The SOCAL Switchbacks have a good finned passive heatsink and don't overheat as DRLs from testing them for hours on end with no outside air cooling. They incorporate a 'canbus decoder' for the flashers that's just a parallel 20W resistor that I'm planning to remove and instead, replace the existing mechanical flasher relay with an electronic one to get rid of hyperflashing. I just don't like the idea of these parallel resistors, they generate too much heat when flashers are used as hazard lights (for signaling a few seconds it's no problem).
Hi, How are these holding up after almost a year? Any problems with the bulb or canbus decoder? I saw another video of you replacing the fog lights again, did the RCP fog lights not last long? Thanks
I have a 2002 accord. just like in the oddysey you have here, the high beam and the drl use same bulb. when i had regular halogens in, everything was working perfectly. now i installed led for the high beam/drl and the bulb works perfectly when i turn on hight beam but will just flicker and come off when connected. Will any of these 2 boxes you shoed in this video fix the probem?
