In this video, I install an OEM taper attachment on my Wards Powercraft 10" Lathe. A big thanks to John in Florida who sent the item to me. PLEASE SUBSCRIBE!
Without those dovetails I don't think your retro fit taper attachment would have been rigid enough only being held there with two bolts. So no time wasted and its always good to challenge ones self and come up with solutions where there might not be one. There might be many other people who might find this video over the years who are thankful that you provided a solution for them and now they can turn tapers and such. Thanks Mr. Pete for your amazing contribution to furthering peoples involvement in metalworking!
Your original plan- the longer dovetail would act to keep the taper extension from moving since only two screws fasten it to the cross slide. The only problem I'd see with that is perhaps more friction but I'd think that wouldn't be a problem that way oil couldn't overcome. Besides, you could always just remove the gib if it was. Nice to see the wonderful generosity in getting the exact taper part! Even two of them! Congratulations on your being sponsored!
Congrats on the sponsor Mr. Pete! Very generous of John to send you those parts! Kudos and thanks to all that support our RU-vid Shop Teacher!! That compound mount does look to be a copy of the Atlas design. I'd think there should be those tapered wedges under set screws for that round dovetail like the Atlas. Someone probably improvised with the dog points.
Absolutely, at the very least the making of that adapter showed us another series of planning and machining. It also helps others that have to make the same or similar part. Not wasted time at all.
You suggested in a video, if you don't have a height gauge, get one. So I did. A Moore and Wright 300mm. It must be the seniors edition because it has a magnifying glass that flips over onto the scale. Brilliant thing. Now to buy a mill, and tooling and gauge blocks and.....errrgghhhh
I watch a lot of your videos multiple times. Love hearing stuff hit the trash can or floor. I'm sure the machined Logan lathe attachment, along with the raw casting would fetch a good price on ebay.
Most older machinists still have a sense of generosity, over greed. The dovetail on the aluminum extension, I think, was needed for rigidity. The extension was an elegant solution to your problem. Twenty years from now, when they hold your auction, people are going to be able to buy some very nice, complete, lathes. Thank you for restoring and maintaining our machining history, from when the USA was the world standard.
I too thought the dovetail on the aluminum extension would give added rigidity so it wasn't wasted effort if you did have to use the part. Thanks again for your time and efforts. I've learned so much from you.
I find your off-topic excursions just as informative and useful as the on-topic stuff. Besides, a retiree never really wastes his time, the journey is just as enjoyable as the destination!
I watched the OEM version of this first. I have to say I very much prefer your aluminum cast version much more. While watching the OEM version you stated it did not have the dovetail and you surmised that it wasn't necessary especially being cast iron. But in watching the OEM demonstration a very discernible twisting can be seen as you operate it. Where with this custom cast aluminum it is rock solid throughout your testing of it. This can only be due to the dovetail providing much greater support and rigidity regardless of being of a softer material. I must applaud your impeccable work on this custom tooling and suggest you compare the 2 different ones for flex and accuracy. I believe you will be pleasantly surprised. P.S. First posted this comment on the aluminum version as well for both your and commenters benefit.
mrpete222, if for nothing else your work inspires others. And being a man of the Lord, we know the path of hardship is the road less traveled but also the one of greater reward.
Good video Lyle, really a lot of information about taper attachments. I like the simplicity of the Logan design, it looks like the inventive mind could re-design the same for the home shop fairly effectively. Cheers!
Hmm . A pair of cam follower bearings bolted to that could turn that into a tracer attachment. Can you also narrow the guide bar bracket to give you more angle
I have to say, I noticed that cross slide racking a little when you changed direction. Sounds to me like the extra dovetail on your shop built taper attachment might actually be superior to the factory design!
I'm actually sorry you got the parts shipped to you, Mr. Pete. I enjoy your approach to solving the problems that come up and you solve when fabricating the missing pieces. Thanks for the video but your time wouldn't be wasted if you finished the part you were making.
Lyle, Fine series of videos. It was great John sent the taper attachment. Back to watching a few more of your videos. Think I'm about half finished. :-)
Mr. Pete, Get yourself some Evapo-Rust. No shop is complete without it! Keith Rucker turned me onto it and I am forever grateful. It will save you scrubbing with the 3M pads. Thanks for the great videos. -Scott
Mrpete222 I have the taper attachment for my Logan 825 lathe except I am missing the small slide piece that slides along the bar of the taper attachment. I sure could use the extra one you showed early in the video, I don’t know if you have plans for it but I’d be willing to buy one if you have one available.
My thoughts on the part that you made. The dove tail you put in it would make it more rigid since it was two parts instead of one casting. So I think it was a good idea. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video, I have a Logan 12" model 2555V that I wish I could find a taper attachment for. If you get anyone responding to you that they have one for a 12" Logan, please let me know.
Mr. Pete nice video #402,I'm assembling my 10" logan lathe at this time, I'm working on the taper attachment but I'm missing the sliding block on the bar back there,would you please sell it to me if you have 1 to spare,thank you?
Thanks for the content tubalcain. I'm wondering if a man of your knowledge could possibly help me in the metal department. I have a stainless steel stud (A2 or 304) that's broken off flush with an aluminium cylinder head. What can I do to remove this stud? I.e what type of drill bit would work best, should I even attempt to drill and use an easy out or will the metals have galled together? It's only been in the cylinder head for about 3 months or just over. Do you know how long it takes for these metals to gall.. if they at all do? It's causing me major issues, im scared to attempt to remove it as I've heard of easy outs breaking and they're hardened tool steel and would be even harder to remove. I know it's off topic, I really just need some great advice from an experienced worker such as yourself. You can see you have had many many years experience and it does show! I understand if you don't see my comment but if you do consider any help I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
Mr Peterson I wonder if you can help answer a question? In the US it seems the normal practice is to have the compound permanently offset "for threading". This is a practice that seems unique to North America and I was hoping you could identify when the practice became established. I have a theory it may relate to war time production when men and women from other occupations were employed as turners. During my training we always kept the compound parallel to the bed unless threading some coarse pitch. I can see advantages and disadvantages for both practices so I find it curious the option seems to have divided along geographical boundaries. BTW the new cross slide seems to have a large gap over the old dovetails might I suggest a rubber scraper to seal up the gap.
We always keep it at 29 deg. Then it does not strike the tailstock nor at 0 deg would it interfere with the crossfeed. Keeping parallel seems strange to me.
Can you put me in touch with the guy in Oklahoma who has an extended cross slide. I am missing that part for my lathe and would like to purchase it from him.
Would you be willing to part with the bolt on piece you made? I'm just getting started (bought lathe this past spring) and dont yet have the skills or equipment to make one. Thanks Alan
