INSTALL METAL ROOFING Helping my son install metal roof on his double decker swing set for the twins. Tips on Installing #diy #shorts #metalroofs #MaxKendallMetalRoofing
Manufacturer of steel siding here. You are 100% correct on over tightening fasteners. But one thing you are doing wrong is using an impact gun. Impacts will induce oil canning on some panels. Best to use a variable speed drill with correct settings to avoid the potential. Just my $0.02….. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for this post!! As a retired wood shop teacher. Very few people use a tool to its maximum capacity. A drill has drive settings. Take a test piece and set your drill’s drive clutch as desired. It will make you more exact, every screw driven the exact same. Also makes you faster and more efficient.
The metal roof dilemma, do you screw the flat or the ridge? In hot climates, like Florida, that rubber gasket will last about 10 to 15 years. If you screw on the ridge, setting the torque on your drill will diminish the risk of crushing the crown, the surface contact is less. Screwing down on the flat, provides greater hold. However, the risk for leaks is imminent after the rubber washers dry out. Speaking from my own experience. Ive found, screwing on the crown creates a downward hole. Once the washer dries out, there remains a gap, a rounded V, but the screw serves as an umbrella. Heavy storms, water will get in. Screwing on the flat just leaves a gap of about 1/32" once the washer dries out. If only someone could come up with a truly sun resistant washer!! Either way, crown or flat, once the washer dries out, the seal is no more. I have a metal roof on my home. I intent to have the screws replaced in about 15 years. Currently replacing the metal roof on my shed. I plan on laying some tylek paper on the plywood, then tar paper on the plywood. My strip boards treated, I cover the top with folded piece of tar paper 4" wide, tacking it down with a staples, then the metal. Tar holds up pretty good, tends to Crack and dry, holds a seal as the years go by. I assume the washers are going to fail! Ill probably run a bead of roofing tar between the sheets. It's time consuming but do-able for a shed. I've taken down a few old metal roofs, learned much from what I've found.
You should always place screws in the flat and the rib. Flat- metal to wood screws. Ribs - metal to metal screws. Never screw a metal sheet straight down in plywood, should always have a lava or hat track. If hat track is used it will be metal to metal screws. If you replace a metal roof over another Metal roof "ALWAYS" Hat track.
@@gerryfernandez8679 lies flats are the manufacturers recommended fastening. They say screwing the flat make a better connection with the roof. Please stop spreading misinformation
This is manufacture specifications for most r-panel products. At least here in usa. I understand its a great spot for a leak but we have to install how they say or they wont warranty it.
some brands that's how it goes other brands it could void the warranty always check manufacturer specs or any leaks are on you otherwise they cover anything that leaks under defects.
Everyone knocking the screw pattern, notcie he's at the eave and that is the exact manufacturer recommended screw pattern for 9-36 panel which is what looks like he's using.
For screw placement it depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
Thank you for your comments. So many people are telling me how I'm doing it wrong. I buy my panels straight from the manufacturer and I'm installing the way they say. Thanks for watching !!!
@@nevales I think it was in the mid-teens, but you'll need to fine tune that as it will depend on the lumber you're screwing into. Softer board get a lower number; higher for harder. Once you find it, most will be fine but an occasional one will need a little tightening or loosening
I did screw on the ridge, but so many are told un these videos to screw on the flat and low, water flow down and there is less real-estate on the high part of the ridge
Depends on the manufacturer. Some say on the ribs and others say in the flat. Follow your manufacturers install instructions; not the ass hats that take instructions from one product and use it to install all others.
Don't use impact driver. Normal battery drill set on 2 or 3 depending on the brand will do the job without worrying, alternatively I have seen a Makita impact driver that, can be adjusted to low torque. Writing from UK. Thanks for video
@@superdinmt yeah that's how most people i've seen does it however i have seen some who don't pre drill and do just fine, but yes i do agree pre drilling makes a world of difference especially when your roofing on an angle.
What about when metal doesn't seat to wood i bring it down and then back off a lil bc I ran into when I walked on it a couple days later the metal was bouncing
So what it is washer are not like old ones there not rubber. Think about this let's say night temp was 60 day temp gets up to 80 metal roof temp is probably over 100 so metal has atleast 40 degree temp swing. Metal moves alot an leaks on screws metal roof are good screws suck
Stopped using two piece screws nearly 20 years ago. If the budget won’t allow for one piece (capped head) SFS / ZAC screws that trap and protect the washer, I decline the project. JS
My supplier is just over $3.00 Lin. ft. and the panels are 3 ft. wide. I built a 12 ft. by 48 ft. lean to for just under $2000.00 total in counting all materials.The project you see here on swing set for that metal and screws was around $400.00
I build awnings like this on the ground, I’ve never seen someone use string to line up their screws. fuck a square and making a perfect notch everywhere lmao
Metal ROOFS, not ROOVES. Use a drill driver with a reliable clutch, not an impact driver. Let the drill clutch set the screw. An impact driver requires perfect trigger control and consistent battery power. You create a dimple in the roof with an impact driver.
I fucked up a whole rooof this one time. It became comical because my boss would send me there at least once a week for a year until he gave up. It was fun
Those screws do not last anyways, you should be caulking them when you are done,. I Chase roof leaks for a living and the biggest problem of a metal roof are the rubber washers are gone and weathered and water is going down the screw hole. our solution is to use a fat to screw with a bigger, rubber washer, and then caulk it.
Those will eventually leak no matter how you install them. They make a screw with a cap over the washer. It keeps you from over tightening the screw and protects the washer from the weather
This is a poor performance metal roof option given the screws will reverse out over the years and the screws collect everthing that hits your roof. Best to go with a Standing Seam Metal roof.
