Since summer is here, I decided I needed air conditioning in my shop. Unfortunately most window AC units are designed for Double Hung windows. I only have a single Horizontal Slider window. What ever will I do?
*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ru-vid.comUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
95% of RU-vid videos is for people installing an AC into an vertical sliding window which seems to be fairly easy. Glad I stumble across yours. Thanks and wish me luck!
Great job I have an older house with double storm windows also horizontal sliders and was looking for some OTHER ideas and you just gave me a couple THANK YOU
Makes me think I'll have to call Canadian Tire to have them install mine! That was a lot of fiddling, cutting and gluing etc to make it fit properly. I just don't have all the tools to do it.
Made the job way more complicated than it is. Should have taken 20 minutes. Didn't he see the holes in wood before he put it in window 1st time or try the fit of upper wood before he GLUED it together. He could have made it much safer if the wood was inside of track, screwed to it and extended 2" inside window. No he GLUED wood before knowing it was right. Trying to show how smart-looks dumb.
Good job. I had a similar problem with my Ac going into a slider also. Lucky I work for a window company and got the glass in the fixed side ( non moving part) made about half the size in height. I was able to install the unit like I had a single/double hung unit and was basically able to use all the parts for the Ac. And the best part for a day ac is not needed I can still open my window and lock it normal also.
It seems like a simpler solution would be a 2x2 on the bottom. The nubs you pointed out (at least on my unit) are designed to sit outside of the window. On your window, they would go around where that second, further track is. This is a safety feature to keep the the AC from falling (or being pushed) into the room. With your design, the only thing keeping it from falling into the garage is that thin vertical piece of plywood you screwed in at the end. It is probably enough 99% of the time. On the top, if you only used one piece of longer ply, do you think you could angle ply then place the AC in? After that you could just shove the second smaller piece of ply in. The screws would go into the longer piece of ply and should hold it in place as well as a window. Many people on youtube are using a metal rod and gravity to hold the top part from falling through the window. Overall, good ideas, and thanks for the ideas about varnish!
Maybe if your just gonna install a small one like this anyway. Most of them are not powerful enough to cool a large room though. I tried it and ended up taking the p.o.s. right back. lol.
J.R. Ross I have one from Danby. Do they not make anything? Seems they do it all. It’s cooling pretty well for our upstairs apartment. I think it’s a 10,000btu. Bought used so it’s not a big gamble. Just installed a 12,000btu unit also from Danby and it is cooler than the portable but I wouldn’t say by a large margin. It cools our living room downstairs and doing a great job at that. Replaced a gutless 5,000 Walmart offshoot brand. It had mould and other funky stuff on it. I sipusoect it was making us sick so it had to go.
What size window do you have? I'm going to attempt to install a similar unit into a window that has an opening that measures about 22.5" wide and 14" high. so I'm planing on making a wood frame or something for it... Thanks! Great video!
Lol that’s pretty much all I had as well. The hand saw looks more like a kids prop toy. I cut up a salt from an IKEA bed that I didn’t use anymore to be the base of the window. It’s very much a cobbler install but hopefully it’s enough. My concern is the water it produces will cause mildew and that’s going to be blowing in the home. I’ve had similar things happen with cheap units from Walmart but this time I bought a 12000btu Danby from Costco. Apart from the slight cost increase it was a hell of a job getting it up my 3rd floor apartment and the install was equally daunting as I’m doing this all by myself. But I’m digressing,
Unless you're planning on a hobby or job needing them you don't need all that. A cheap hand saw, cheap electric drill that can use screw bits, good hammer and screwdriver all all most projects require. I wouldn't have put that wood on bottom of A.C. I would have put in window track and worked from there.
I'm thinking the condensation and the windy days of rain will rot that wood, , unless it is treated wood. Plywood won't last as long as wood. To permanently glue and screw it to the ac is making more work for you later when it rots. Then again perhaps you ac won't have a long life before the wood rots.
Actually yes, after 3 years I am starting to get some rot just on the faces that are exposed outside. It helps that I only have the AC unit installed May through September. I may sand and re-varnish the rot surfaces before this coming summer.
Pressure treated wood would last much longer. Cost a little more but worth it. It only takes rainy day taking toll without winter. Yes I agree that will help to make your untreated wood last longer by taking out during the winter months. My neighbor used wood and after 7 years of Danby 12,000 btu window ac, her wood which is stronger as you know (not pressed board) rotted right through. She just pulled a wee bit on the one side and it fell apart. I'm going to buy a Danby, her's still worked just worked harder and took longer to cool down to bearable coolness.
Hi David, I was wondering as I just installed one myself today with limited knowledge and tools at my disposal. I had to settle for having the AC partially indoors where some of the exhaust vents on the side are inside the home. Luckily as I was enjoying some cooled air after my labour I noticed some water was draining but all of it was dripping outside. Makes me wonder two things. One, is it levelled correctly? And two, will this partial vent that’s inside cause future problems as it isn’t installed according to manufacturers spec. I don’t recall seeing a properly installed AC unit ever dripping water. My understanding is if it’s working properly the coils or whatever they’re called in the unit will take care of it by evaporating. Hence if I’m seeing water pool and drain then there is a problem with the installation. Does that make sense?
There may be an air conditioner out there that doesn't drip, but I've never seen one. I grew up in an old house with window units like this and they always dripped.
Lol I guess all new ones have built in obsolescence. The one I bought has garnered many positive reviews with some testimonies saying it’s lasted 12 years.
Craftsman David I’m going to go against the grain here and say they do work. Perhaps not as efficiently. For the cost of a vertical unit you can buy 3 of the traditional ones. I had this setup for 3 years or more. If you level it enough that the drainage goes outside it works in a pinch. Of course my experience or lack thereof caused some of that drainage to harbour mould and the units I have gone through all have mould. I’d say do it at your own risk, it will work in a pinch but make doubly sure it is draining outside and possibly clean it after the summer season to prevent mould from growing. I’ve had many summers on the same unit and it always stayed cool in spite of manufacturers claim it doesn’t operate properly when the orientation is swapped.
You can buy A.C. units that actual body is only 16" which can be used in older casement windows. The measurements usually given are for full use with side fins. You don't need to use those. I use 1 small unit, 16" wide and about 14" height. We made sure had tilt then used plexiglass and wood to frame window area above it. Works and looks great! You should be able to find smaller model, online usually shows measurements, versus trying to put in other way.
Don't need all those tools. If you have to buy wood, with no holes, usually you can get several cuts of it for free. A hammer and nail (for pilot holes), screwdriver, maybe a cheap hand saw. Either he's stupid or just looks that way, as he took a 20 minute job and made it look like you had to be an engineer. Is this how his company works and bills for hours of work for actual job that should take 1/2 hour?
