Thanks man!! Jez was over the moon the first day he rode home, and I'm glad I got his reaction to fast charging on camera. The awesome bike just got awesomer.
Perfect timing. I'm getting very frustrated trying to figure out how and where to mount that gigantic Type 2 connector and that's the only thing keeping me from diving in and installing my 10 kW pan kit. I was looking back through your old videos trying to find where you say the name of those blue connectors, but hadn't had any luck so far. Then you post this video and now I've got it! Thanks for all the informative videos. 👍
@@NewZeroland The other thing is that it gets really expensive really fast if you're making adapters for everything to Type 2. Not to mention the space that would take up on a road trip. Seriously, those EV sockets and plugs are a gigantic rip-off. It's not rocket science or exotic materials. It costs a couple of bucks at most to make those things and they want well over a hundred bucks for a plug without a cable?
@@awo1fman so true. Hopefully Zero stops using big bulky andersons someday. They aren't even waterproof! And we need a global standard for charging stations. It'd be nice if cables were built into the stations, too.. like Tesla destination chargers.
Pro-tip, splice a C13 plug to the third phase of your 3-phase mennekes kable, that way the on-board charger can help with an additional 1.3kW and you don't need to key the bike on to start the charging.
Yes. I did the same. Modified my type 2 cable, and can get 5,8kW from original Charge Tank, and extra 1.2kW from original charger. One extra bonus : in France there is a big difference in monthly fees between 18 and 22kW. Therefore most of public chargers are limited to 18kW i.e. 6 per phase. With this setup you can still get your 7kW instead of 6kW.
hi!I also plan to make a cable and installa charge tank in Eu Hungary, but my Type 2 cable has only 1 phas the other 2 pins are not isntalled by teh chinease vednor :( so nothaving 3-phase mennekes kable just 1 phase pins present, can I just use the same phase to 6kw charge tank and 1.3kw obnboard splitted from same phase? iF i ADD 220 ohm resistor it let me use 32Amps on one phase as I know.
You guys and your DIY self-sufficiency impresses me greatly. I wouldn't dare do anything remotely like what you do. Getting those chargers away from the belly pan is a smart move, I think. Great job all round!
Haha, thanks John! I think I scared Jez a little with all the wiring mess and custom stuff, but when you cover it up with shiny plastics, nobody has to know ;)
@@NewZeroland Dude im just finishing the Video... ;) i skiped a date just to make it posibe :) But today i had lot work at the hospital... i will release it on sunday.
that's pretty slick! I'm looking into getting a new sr/s just tested a sr/f last week but trying to decide if the premium model is going to be worth the extra 2k when i really don't plan on using it for long rides
Nice! The SR/S looks like a great choice. Premium is the bigger charger, right? It all depends on where you ride. I hear they get great range so you should be fine wherever you are.
@@NewZeroland yeah heated grips and a 6kw charger vs the 3 but that's only if you use level 2 charging.. jut normal wall plugs both charge the same speed.. you can also get a center stand for the sr/s.. lol I love center stands they make it so easy
Very clean work! Good job! I can't get my new 9.9 pan to work with public chargers for some reason... Seems like the station doesn't see I'm even connected.
Aw man! I think it's the switch. Did the diginow kit come with an on/off switch? Sometimes the station wants to be connected to the bike first, to say "oh hey, what's up, bike" and then you flip the switch and it says "cool, we've met, now I'll give you the juice." You might need the bike keyed on, too.
@@NewZeroland yep, they included a switch to set the bike in charging mode and another switch for the inlet. The first one works fine, while the second doesn't seem to do anything. Tried every combination I could think of of plugging, switching and turning the bike on. Nothing worked. Waiting for Brandon and Morgan to figure something out...
is there a way to use the diginow charger without the key? cuz doing this in many areas of the U.S. with the key still in the bike would just get it stolen, especially if the fans are running.
I do not understand why you think the DSR needs a firmware update to run a chargetank. The firmware on the MBB and BMS you could potentially update trough your phone (MY17 or later). The 6kW CT will come with the latest firmware revision (V2.07) and only needs a CAN communication to the bike. 2 leads on the B- and B+ and that is it. I have installed more of these then I can tell you, but a firmware update is not necesarry. However, I do not think i have installed them on older then MY17 bikes, so i am curious to your reasoning behind the needing firmware.
Hey thanks for watching. We used old diginow chargers which are discontinued. Your best bet is to find some chargers sold by Otten (I think in Germany?) or buy a charge tank from Zero.
I love the idea of a superfast charge time, but my experience of fast charging Lipo Drone batteries is that it seriously reduces the life span of the batteries. Lion batteries have different characteristics but the principal is the same. I wonder how quick you can charge a battery before it reduces the lifespan too much.
They way I see it is, the faster you charge, the less time the battery has to get hot. As long as you charge up to 100% every once in a while to balance the cells, the battery stays pretty healthy.
I can’t tell if the two outer heat sinks are symmetrical but if they are wouldn’t it have been better to install them same as the middle one (fins up/down vs side to side). That way they should be more effective as they would “breath” better (heat rises). (Unless I missed something.......)
That's a good point. Most of the heat exits through the middle, but it could help if they were rotated. We have some more plans for this setup, so I'll make sure to fix that. Thanks man!
Also if posable allow some “breathing” room on the bottom so the cooler air has a way in to do its magic. Perhaps the front and back will allow the air in & the fan in the middle lets the air out???
Also be mindful that the fans will move xxcfm and this must be exhausted without being sucked back into the air cycle. Must create an air system whereas cool air is introduced & (all) the hot air is exhausted (without being short cycled back into the air circuit). I miss spoke on my original response. Hot air does indeed rise with natural conduction but seeing your using a fan (convection), air will be forced in/out with force so pivoting the fins 90° will be more for airflow rather then direct heat transfer efficiency. If you have the space (total height) consider putting some spacers on the bottom before installing the components so as to create an air duct and install sealant (foam tape or?) to force the air past the heat sink fins for greatest heat rejection effect. I’ll assume the fans discharge upwards & if so, air in on the front/back & out the center. P.S. HVAC is my thing.
@@ericsokoloff89 thanks for your input! This is really helpful. I've seen people drill holes in the sides of their tanks to get more airflow through it. We'll see how far this guy wants to take it haha.
How about the 5 years Warranty, when you modify the Charging unit? is it gone? Looks very nice, I like the HD LifeWire but it's much to expensive for me so This DSR would be an alternative, there is not so many dealers in Denmark yet, (And I have a long way to one) so it's nice that there is no maintenance. :-)
The warranty is still there (not for long though because this is a 2016 bike) but you could just order a charge tank from the factory and that would be covered as well 😁 I really like DSRs! I think they're still some of the best Zeros.
@@NewZeroland would you choose the new Zero SR/F over the DSRs? I was thinking about the Black Forest, and have a Charge tank, I have a Honda CBR1100 Super Blackbird XX now, and we go to Germany for rides (DC charging no problem) Thanks
@@MichaelSrensenVirklund I'm not a fan of the SR/F but being able to charge in 1 hour at one of those 3-phase AC stations is pretty cool. The DSR with charge tank would still take 2 hours. If you have DC stations in your area, the only way to go is an Energica!
Hey did Jens do his tour? Only kaikoura, but hopefully further. Man, I can't wait for us to tour the South again on our new emotos! And I love the Sarolea shirt!
@@NewZeroland I stopped in Ward starting at Picton. There's a 16amp charger there at a quiet hotel and you can use their lounge while waiting for $5. Had some lunch, cuppa, and internets time. But that was when I had to wait for 6.6kw! And it took very gentle riding to roll into Kaikoura :( It's going to be tricky dropping from and average 160km to 140km...maybe 130km on hilly legs. I already want a 21.5!
Can you do a guide for a current super charger setup? It seems like they're sold out everywhere, and I can't find where you talk about the pan upgrade failing
Yeah they stopped making them last year, but you can find used ones every once in a while on the Zero owners facebook group. My pan filled up with water and corroded the wiring, so drilling holes in the pan would be great, or mounting them in the tank.
Thanks! Naaah, even with all 3 on my bike, the fastest I could charge was an hour. I'm holding off on road trips until the next bike with DC fast charging 😁⚡
NewZeroland patience is a virtue. That ABS issue seems to be what’s standing in the way. Is there aftermarket ABS to get a lightning compliant for import then remove after it arrives? If that would be legal.
Hi! I have my 14,4kWh Zero S since half year now and I can easily make trips of 220km a day at 65km/h speed max about 5 hours ride, and I am very very tired (not the bike) to keep the throttle at that position and not use brakes just coast (only brake regeneration no throttle off brake). I am thinking now about a fast charge option but not the expensive 6kW charge tank, as I am not needing it all the time. Is there a way to have an off bike 6kW charger like the DEltaQ 1kW just a 6kW so I could put it to my top case if I need 6kW+1kW charge power on longer trip, but don't have to carry all the time on my maximum 200km/day trips? So some external 6kW at least for the auxilary charge plug and I could modify my custom Type2 cable of course to power both the external and inboard. I think any aftermarket 6kW chargers could work as not need to activate the charge progress with the can-bus signal on the auxilary charger plug because the internal charger activates it and the 6kW external just works in parallel when battery pack relay is on and active... maybe that could be the cheapest and best idea for a faster charging without bringing a charge tank all time.
Yeah that sounds cool. Lots of people used their DigiNow (TC chargers) that way. They just ran custom cables up to the top box. DigiNow no longer sells these, but I think there's a company in Europe that still does.
@@NewZeroland I found some 3.3kW charger items now on ali, (they look like there old 3.3kW TC Elcon model, also called diginow) the question is the "CAN" or "enable" version is good for me? Do I need charge controller as extra or just plug the charger into AC, and the DC output to Zero S accessory charge port and if I give AC to the onboard bottom charger both chargers will charge and accessory charger port will still work? I am not sure if "enable" mode is enough and what else needed to keep charger alive and charge process alive. Thank you for the help, I need it! Nut sure what to connect to the signal pins in the accessory Anderson in Zero and also for the charger signals, as I see no charge controller expernal box included. Don't want to key in the bike for charge, so not leave the key in and turn it on...
@@NewZeroland as I checkedno need to connect signal if onboard enables charging, but if I use a non deltaq charger Zero will fing it in the logs that I charged fadter and warranty would void on the battery....
@@NewZeroland I don't know but its new bike, got new battery on purchase as original dead in the showroom at storage and if there is a problem again they will probably check evetything just not to cover under warranty. They told the dealer it was his fault as did not charge every month when previos (unused) battery failed to charge fine.
J1772 is only used in the US and Japan. I was pretty shocked to find that out too haha. Just about every other country uses Type 2 plugs. We just wanted to be different and use neutrik connectors :D
@@NewZeroland okies ;) i need some help. idk whether you can understand my problem, but still i wanna tell. i have made a lifepo4 battery pack of 7p, 24s. with dedicated lifepo4 24s bms of 50Amp capacity. all connection are done correctly like - B- to battery negative C- to charge negative P- to negative of controller The bike goes on, the bike display is on and going and all the sensors with horn & indicator are active. But as soon as i pull the accelerator, the system goes down. What you think? should i pull out the BMS for its wiring and soldering checkups? coz the battery i fixed was connected accurately. since its lifepo4 battery, its Voltage range is 3.2 to 3.65v. so i had made 24 sets of 7 cells in parallel. But all the cells had 3.25v during connection except for 2 cells , that were 2.98volts. so there are 2 theories that might be the cause of my problem- 1. The battery voltage are not synchronized , but since i put the bms hence it should balance the unbalanced cells. 2. BMS is faulty. please help.
