Installing a Double DIN android auto head unit in a 2000-2002 GMC Yukon / Tahoe / Silverado / Sierra 

Enjoy once you are done, a nice head unit with some modern convieneces really spruces up these trucks, and they are still one of the best trucks/suv platforms out there.

Glad I could help

It's disconnected, but I see no reason to pull it out. I've actually been tempted to to see if I can use it as an Aux source as a throw back gag. The guy I got the truck from said he got it with that tape in the deck too, so I figured what the heck I'll leave it til I get rid of the rig too.

@@DriverJsGarage any updates for the reverse cam by the way love your vid. ✌

I appreciate it, no unfortunately I haven't had time to get the backup camera installed. Since the Pandemic I've not had anywhere near the amount of time I would like to get all of my projects done. Just flat out too much to do between working, and playing teacher for my kids.

@@DriverJsGarage You can upgrade the tape player and the onstar to cubby holders. I did it, makes it look more modern and another place to toss the cell phone lol. I’m sure I’ll find it… but why don’t you recommend changing the 99-02 with 03-06 dash kits? I changed my truck to a double din, now I don’t like my single din in the Yukon anymore. I know I’m “supposed” to change it but if I can get away without it why not Onstar: www.ebay.com/itm/99-06-Chevy-Tahoe-Silverado-Sierra-Yukon-Suburban-Dash-Storage-Cubby-Bin-U58-/203278522627?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Tape deck: Radio Stereo CD Replacement Pocket Kit Fits Chevrolet Chevy www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDYNUC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0RB58ANPZ6839P6ABWEF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the links somehow this comment got lost in my replies. I'll check both of those out, because while the tape player is a silly novelty reminder of when the truck was made, I'd rather have more functionality since this is a rig I use mainly for hauling or jobs.

Glad I can help folks. I know it's an easier job, but not everyone knows that and I wanted to make sure I could help folks get some confidence that they can do some of this stuff themselves and save $$. I don't know much about the P-30 frame, and box trucks/motor homes specific setups to help figure it out, but sometimes there is a factory amp, and if you don't wire the head unit into the wire that signals the amp to power up, you won't get audio. Again I don't know much about the P-30, but I hear about this and see it in other vehicles I've worked with. IF you're going for a more custom built motor home, I'd also suggest potentially designing your own full amplified audio system, if that's in your comfort level. There are a few really good car audio channels out there, that focus more on fully custom systems (where I'm more of just a DIY for projects I want). @CarAudioFabrication ( www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication ) is an awesome source for info and does some really neat builds to inspire.

It sounds good so far. The only issue I've run into is with getting the wireless connection to work with my s8+

@@DriverJsGarage are you upgraded to Android 9 on your phone?

Nope currently running 8.0 I believe. Not sure if I can force 9 yet or not. I've been considering an S10+ though

So I finally upgraded to Android 9 and it still won't seem to acknowledge the wireless connection. I'm going to do a bit more digging and see what I can figure out. Follow-up video coming down the line.

Late last fall I figured out how to do the wireless connection and forgot that I wanted to address it in a video. So I'll talk about that in another video probably next week.

Correct, Metra has started selling kits that have colors that are close to factory appearance. I recommend folks specifically wanting the metra kit to check out crutchfield so they can be sure it fits their vehicle easily. If you want the metra kit you can head over to crutchfield and put in your vehicle information to get your kit. www.crutchfield.com/g_112200/Dash-Kits.html?tp=3121&fa=1#&avf=Y

Best I could find on google was 7" wide, 3 7/8" tall and and 6 1/2" deep (which feels close to accurate). I would say test fit it before cutting the bracket see how it sits. Be gentle and go slow as you see how stuff fits. If you run into gaps after putting on the bezel then you'll need to cut that rear support brace. Likely only at the top to allow it to displace a little for you.

You have to cut the rear brace too it just happened that it was already cut on my truck

Everything needed was in the dash kit I bought.

The wiring harness I got was a very basic wiring harness. None of the on-star features are retained and I didn't have steering wheel controls in my truck.

It was over a year ago so I can't remember. When I FINALLY get around to installing the backup camera next week I'd be glad to take a look at let you know. Feel free to join my discord I'm on there much more than I check older videos for comments !

First welcome to the Yukon crew! I also bought all of the parts to make the newer dash style work too, started modifying them and found the kit after I started the work. Which is why I ended up making this video, because I felt like the effort it took to update the dash just wasn't worth the result when I could buy a kit for the same price and not mess around with fitment and fabrication I also recently found out that another brand has since started selling kits that are already color matched as well. If the color match/fit/finish are good I'll be updating the links in my videos to the newer SCOSCHE kit too. I'll probably likely do a review video of the ir kit also, because so far the kit looks like it's better than the original metra kit I used.

@@DriverJsGarage Definitely shall be watching for that.

looks like I accidentally set it to private. Video should be up again.

For the Double din there are a few ways you can do it, you can modify the stock bezel (but then it won't look exactly right if you go back to stock, so I went the route of getting a double DIN specific bezel / facia. The first one I got was black, when I was initially shopping around for the head unit I could only find black in stock, and wasn't sure how long the wait would be to get the right color, so I just pulled the trigger. ~1 year later my truck was broken into and the bezel in the video destroyed so I've since replaced it with one that very closely matches the factory color (I believe I updated the link in the description of the video to the newer one that has options for matching the stock colors).

I didn't have to cut the plastic shelf on mine. A longer head unit or a newer (03+) truck may require that to be cut. but with the head unit and model year this install was done in, that was not required. The metal support brace did need to be cut at the top to allow for some additional clearance though (but was already done prior) as another aftermarket head unit was in the truck before.

Let me preface this by saying it's been about 4 years since I did the install so remember every detail isn't going to happen. 1. I believe so, but... my door cards did not have Bose logos on the speakers that I remember (been over a year since I've driven the truck too, and it's not anywhere near me to go verify). But because it had on-star I believe it had to have Bose in it, because I couldn't find anything showing on-star trucks that were not also equipped with Bose units. 2. Yes it's an after market bezel. In the video I had a Metra Double Din Head dash bezel, (the link for that is still in the video description). After my truck was broken into and my head unit stolen , and dash ripped up, I replaced it with another after market bezel that had options for different colors, and listed a color that more closely matched the factory look (and it was close enough in color match that I was ok with it). It's not a perfect look, but it's better than the Metra IMO. The newer kit I have in it is from Scosche, I got it on Amazon here: amzn.to/3wlp0qV 3. On the amp wiring color, I'm fairly certain the wire was red, and that the more pink look it has in the video is because of the harsh white light, and how deep of a red the new wire I was using to connect in was, combine that with the fact that I had to peel off a lot of gooey tape from the wire where the previous owner had done a half assed job of splicing it in (no solder or connector just cut some of the cover off the wire, and wrapped the wire on and taped over it) of the wire and it looks discolored. But I'm like 99% that it was red. I hope that helps, but again it was 4 years ago I did the install, and haven't done another Yukon since, so I might be hazy on the details. TLDR; 1. I think it had bose based on other options but not sure 2. Yes after market bezel, shape was fine on both that I used., scosche > Metra 3. Pretty sure the wire was red, but only showed on camera due to color contrast between the new red wire I was using to jump to the amp wire.

I'm not sure why you wouldn't just cut the bracket, as I've not heard of any major issues from doing so, and it's not integral the vehicles safety. So besides keeping it as close to OEM as possible I can't think of any reason I'd say not to just cut it. But. If you don't want to cut the bracket and still want a double din, one of the easy solutions is to buy a head unit that doesn't have a CD/DVD drive built in, and only functions as an android auto/car play unit and a digital media player. You'll still be able to play music using digital services, memory sticks, etc. with the right unit, you'll just not have the ability to play CD's. From there, the options get more complicated. Measure down to the MM and look for a unit just short enough to clear without cutting. Build/Fabricate custom brackets and a custom facia to make the head unit sit slightly forward

I did a pretty lazy ghetto install on it, since I don't even believe it's necessary (never got back to testing the theory that I could run without it connected or see what the difference was with/without it since I use my phone/Waze via android auto for GPS/Maps. I ran the wire down under the steering shaft in the dash and routed it up to the drivers side A pillar, and just gently tucked it under the headliner (it's loose pinned between the headliner and the ceiling. I found a spot that it doesn't bulge or interfere or fall out). It's right next to my mic mounting spot (which I realized I didn't cover either).Which is clipped into the drivers side headliner right next to the A pillar with the mic aimed at the drivers seat.

Coming soon. I still have the Camera and hardware for it sitting in the glove box of the truck. I think I'll get to doing that one later this week.

DriverJ's Garage would like to see the install as well

Sorry I haven't done the install yet. With the lock downs across the US (and world), I've had a lot less time to shoot videos since I have 2 young kids that are no longer in day care and doing their school work at home. I'm hoping in the next week or so I'll actually have time to get it knocked out..

and unfortunately things haven't really let up on me, so filming time has been non existent. (Install alone probably wouldn't take me too long, but filming doubles or triples how long it takes a job to get done.)

Yes, you need to order one of the dash kits that expands the head unit opening to double din size. I prefer the Scosche kit, as it looks enough like the factor kit that I can't tell a real big difference. I switched to the Scosche kit after initially ordering the Metra dash kit. This is the installation kit I now have in my truck. It even comes with the wiring harness, mounting hardware and antenna adapter. amzn.to/3zcHFpg

The radio side part of the harness is 2 parts. The part that connects to the head unit itself was provided by the manufacturer of the head unit, and came in the original package. The second part that needed to be wired onto to this, to connect to the trucks harness. Is linked in the description of the video, (I believe in this specific instance the provider was Scosche).

I'd like to say I'd be surprised if you had a factory amp and didn't have a pink wire, but I know sometimes corners get cut, repairs get made etc. I searched a bit to see if the Tahoe varied from the Yukon in any paper work I could find and everything I found seemed to be the same for GMT800's. The Amp power wire should be pink. IF the head unit works already you don't need to worry about it because you likely don't have an amp. My experience with GMT800s if you don't have the amp wire connected you get no sound at all. Where I've had other cars, that still had audio, but the volume was just lower. The amp wire for me, wasn't part of the main harness. It was a smaller plug in that was if I recall 4 wires on a separate connector I had to splice.

Yup, same steps, just a different looking radio you're removing.

Also I'll be doing some other Yukon / GMT 800 focused videos in the near future as well.

I did not have to trim any of the bezel/trim around my head unit. I used an aftermarket kit first Metra (which was subsequently damaged when my truck was broken into, then switched to a scosche bezel after I got done dealing with insurance. Having never first hand taken apart an express dash, and not having seen one in person for a long time I did a quick google search and the pictures I'm finding don't look like it's the same type of dash. In all likely hood you probably could make it fit by trimming the bezel, but then you lose the option to return to stock without buying a new part. You could look for other radio options that offer a touch screen and modern connectivity, but the ones I saw on a quick search don't appear to be capable of taking CD's and only allow digital play back. TL;DR : Since I don't think the dashes are the same I can't give you a 100% answer more than I didn't trim mine I used an aftermarket kit.

The only cut that needs to be made if you're using the install kit, is on the rear metal bracket, at towards the top where it connects to the underside of the dash (not every head unit will require this either, as more shallow units can be installed without the extra cut to clearance the support bar).

@@DriverJsGarage thanks, you the man bro

It does! It was a big reason I chose it. It has a memory card slot, CD Player and android auto functionality. The new version of this model is the Pioneer 4500 NEX brand new: ( amzn.to/3vOKslx ) refurbished: amzn.to/3zMAZ1s and has the same features, but the one I installed was a Pioneer 4400NEX refurbished amzn.to/3qhXRBu

No, when I got the truck it had the stock dash surround, and a single DIN radio installed (using some brand of spacer kit). You can see it at 03:12 A previous owner (I'm at least the 3rd owner) had already cut the support bracket. I'm guessing the single DIN unit that was in required some extra depth.

I am definitely still here on RU-vid, just been too busy to make any new videos for a while. I'm not sure how you would fix this with an after market head unit. I did a quick google search using ' how to change door chime volume in gmt800 with aftermarket radio ' and came up with some results, but don't have the time to do the research myself today. I hope that gives you a lead. Otherwise... I believe with a stock head you push the #6 radio preset and it adjusts it in some of the other trucks that share the same platform. So if you still have the stock unit you reinstall it and change it, then put the JVC back in and see if that works, but no promises on that one either as I never ran into the same problem.

amzn.to/2W5CySU Metra DP-3002B

This kit gets around doing the basket swap. The only cut needed is the rear brace behind the bead unit.

Yeah the 2002 should be the same.

The only things I unplugged from the head unit were the Antenna and the harness. If you are talking about the black/red harness that was sitting loose in the video, that is the Aux cable that goes to the tape deck that came stock in this truck. Typically these and stock CD changers don't work with after market head unit's. In this case it was already disconnected, and I was just moving it out of the way. The other harness' I disconnect after that were for the HVAC controller and just plug back into the matching spots.

In this case I didn't have to take out the heating controls, it just made accessibility and filming a bit easier. I didn't have to cut anything when I did my installation. (If I recall correctly the rear support was already cut in my truck (sorry 2 years ago is a long time to remember)) Not all head unit's will even require cutting the rear brace. If you do it's typically only the upper part of the rear brace that needs to be cut free to gain some additional clearance. Pretty easy with a small saw .

The stock size is DIN and a half / 1.5 But a Double DIN head unit can be fitted using a kit or fabricating your own parts.

Pioneer lists it as CarPlay and Android Auto compatible with both wired and wireless connections. I use android auto on a wireless connection The Unit installed in the Video is the Pioneer Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX (Which is now an older model) but if you wanted it you can still get the older model here: amzn.to/36SZOuu The replacement / new model of this head unit which is also android auto/apple car play compatible is the Pioneer Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX : and you can snag it on Amazon here: amzn.to/2MmZRWb

I actually used one of the parking brake bypass circuits. it ran a big extra (I think $15?) for the chip that you wire in, but then I don't have to set the parking brake to get to those menus or splice into the wire on the factory harness. When I eventually do the back up camera I will have to use the reverse wire though if I want it to be automatic.

For a Double DIN aftermarket unit in a 1999-2002 you have to either replace or heavily modify the stock bezel. The modifications aren't reversible in the instance you want to return to to stock when you sell, so buying the bezel is the best way for a double din. For a single DIN you do not need to replace the bezel, just get an installation kit that modifies the shape of the stock opening to single DIN (and this is easily reversible, but unless you get a model with a fold out screen you aren't able to have a touch screen and nav without further modifications.

Everything needed for the installation of the double DIN setup should be linked below.

I can see what my original footage has and try to make something from that. But if I don't have it in the original footage, re-doing the wiring step by step probably won't be possible. Typically the wiring harness adapter will have a key/legend to what each color wire on the adapter is for, and the manual for your head unit should have the same type of key / legend for the wiring coming off of the head unit, so you can match the two up and go from there.

The only gap that I noticed is between the ash tray and charging port doors and the bezel, but I'm not 100% sure on what the gap looked like prior without looking at old photos.

You'll want to order the dash kit, that has the brackets included. amzn.to/41HKVpE (make sure to pick the color that is closest to your dash)

@@DriverJsGarage Thanks but that link is only for the dash bezel. I was going to replace it with a 03 and up Escalade bezel. I need the link to the stereo brackets

The scosche kit that I linked includes the brackets as well. I originally went about trying it with the 03 bezel, but I used the 03 Bucket/cage for the radio too and decided it wasn't worth my effort. I can check and see if the bezel fits at some point as I'm 99% sure I still have the 03 bezel I bought for that idea

amzn.to/3Ohq47S - they're included with the double din kit from Scoche

Not if you use the Scosche or Metra dash kits. (not of the dash bezel any way. The one thing depending on head unit, you may have to remove the rear brace or cut it to allow rear room if you buy a deep double din.

The links for all of the conversion parts are in the description. There is an aftermarket dash kit that makes it a double.

It sounds like you're asking if you can swap a steering wheel into the truck, but I'll address a few points to make sure I'm doing my best to answer. I don't imagine swapping the steering wheel itself would be an easy swap, I don't think steering wheel controls were an option until later years of this body style (03+ I know has them in at least the Denali trim). However much like swapping climate controls I would imagine it's a lot more involved than just buying the steering wheel. I would imagine wiring or a harness transplant would be needed as I doubt the wiring for controls exists in pre steering wheel control trucks (if you have the same year, and your truck was not optioned with steering wheel controls, then the swap could be more direct, as the wiring may already be run in the truck). There are aftermarket controls that including steering wheel mounts you can find some options on Amazon here: amzn.to/3q7k3xc They also make wiring harness adapters for cars that have steering wheel controls to be able to have the controls work with after market radios. You would need to check your specific fitment before buying one of these: amzn.to/36XRATj

@@DriverJsGarage thanks

The one's I got came with my Dash kit and works for 2000-2001's - amzn.to/3ZkI6vn If you just want brackets and to try and modify your stock dash surround, you can try these brackets (they look right based on the pictures and the years listed - amzn.to/3qZGWse 2003 - 2006 you'll want something like this - amzn.to/3Po4vnU

@@DriverJsGarage thank you this helps out a lot couldn’t have done it without your help thank you again and have a great day!

You're Welcome, glad I could help.

found my answer in old reply thank you and great video

Thanks for the kind words, and yeah the brackets came in the install kit.

Correct. I didn't bother looking to see if anyone makes some type of adapter to make it work with an aftermarket, because I think I only own a handful of cassettes still.

The most likely cause of no sound from an after market head unit that was just installed is the truck has a factory amplifier, and the power wire wasn't connected to the new harness. The amp wire is on a secondary smaller harness that is connected to the factory radio. I'm working from memory here, but I believe it was a red wire on the smaller harness. This wire needs to connect to a switched 12v source (one that turns off when the truck is off). Most commonly I see it added / spliced into the remote turn on lead wire from the head unit side of the harness.

IF your speakers worked with the stock head unit, you probably have a factory amp on your truck and the Amp wire is on a harness on that is removed when pulling out the factory head unit, but that does not get integrated on the new wiring harness and has to be powered another way. This isn't something required on all GMT 800's as not all of them have the factory Amp. It's a small connector maybe 4 wires, and I believe it's the red wire on the connection (been a while since I did one that had the amp). An easy solution is just to tap your remote turn on lead onto that wire so the amp get's powered on.

Yes. The rear bracket did need to be cut. You don't need to fully remove it though. You can just cut the top of it.

I did 2 installs in the same week and I actually can't remember if I cut the dash support or not. I know I did in the Camaro I did an install in, but for the life of me I can't remember if I did on the Yukon. However I would guess if others haven't had to cut it, it's because the depth of the head unit doesn't require that to be done. Some Head Units are more shallow and don't require the bracket to be cut, while others are deeper and will require the cut.

I put a Kenwood in mine and had to cut the plastic bucket and metal bar behind it.

PURESOUND4 what tool did you use for the metal? Do you remove the bucket and do it outside by drilling out the rivets?

@@dvcsub It was 2 years ago, so I'm a little fuzzy on the details, but I did take the bucket out and used a dremel to open up the back of it...a lot! I think I also used the dremel with a metal cutting wheel on it for the steel brace.

PURESOUND4 thanks man! I got to do this on Tuesday for a friend

The specific head unit I installed in the Yukon WILL NOT fit an S10 according to every fitment guide I've looked at, but you can do a double Din in the S10, the factory dash on the 2nd Generation S10 is a 1.5, but they make a kit (relatively inexpensive too) to make it a double din. The unit with the most features similar to the head unit in the Yukon is the Alpine INE-W970HD linked here: amzn.to/3mmE2X4 (the package even appears to include the back up camera) Here is a link to the S10 specific double din kit from Metra: amzn.to/3o8D8Os

@@DriverJsGarage alright thank you!

The dash kit was ~ $120 when I purchased it (could have gone up or down since I did my install almost 2 years ago). The Wiring harness ran $10 I think. The links in the description should go to the kit and show the current prices as well.

On this generation of Yukon/Sierra/Silverado/Tahoe the largest part of the expense will likely be the head unit, install kit, and dash surround, and depending on the head unit you choose $1k might just cover parts and install gear. (I chose a middle of the road head unit so if I recall parts and such ran me ~700 including my backup camera) but there were definitely head units that ran up to ~ $1k alone. It's also going to depend a lot on the shops in your area. If there is a BestBuy and you 'just want it done' $80-150ish for the install itself. (depends on if it's a touch screen or simple old school head unit). At custom shop you're definitely looking at more as they are going to go the extra mile on the install, and may bill by the hour instead of the job. It all depends on the complexity / quality of the install you want. Around $1k for what you saw in this video is probably what you're fairly realistic if you're going the BestBuy/big box electronics store installer route.

@@DriverJsGarage Thanks, I had no idea best buy offered it. They look like my most trustworthy option at this point, great quick reply ty!

I don't think ALL locations offer it, but definitely available at at least at a few of my local locations still.

The dash kit I linked in the description should have everything you need to make it fit. It includes a full dash bezel sized for a double din instead of the 1.5? DIN opening that is standard.

How did you remove the 2 ribbits?

I used a dremel tool, but if I had a different drill bit I could have just drilled them out too.

This link should take you to Amazon Mexico, and the correct item: amzn.to/3yUcMFj

The one that holds the radio

I've seen several kits say they work for the early GMT800 trucks, but the pictures do not look the same as the kit I got. The first kit I used and installed during the video is this one (At the time they only offered black... now they offer colors too Metra Double Din kit (Black) : amzn.to/3Vuzq5I Metra Double Din Kit (Shale, this is the color of my interior): amzn.to/4a1GtXW Later after my truck was broken into and my head unit stolen, I switched to a different brand as they offered color matched ones. I liked this kit better, because the texture even is a closer match to factory... amzn.to/43sR63j

Correct the stock head unit is a 1.5 and so is the factory dash opening for the head unit... However this is how to install a double din head unit into the truck.

Reduce the video quality in the settings drop down.

Yep

Sure is!

There are a lot of fitment guides out there. I typically use Crutchfield but there are other websites that have a good fitment guide.

@@DriverJsGarage thanks man you still react after all these years ,respect

I try to as I have time, I like to try and be as active in helping as I can.

That is the idea of video, to look at that :D

I had Sirius for almost a year and the only thing I found myself regularly listening to was sports on it, I use a memory card with my entire music collection, or my phone with amazon music on it more. I definitely get why some people just go with XM and are happy with that though.

I may not have simply because it already was. The previous owner of my truck did a pretty hack job of installing the head unit they had installed, and I can't remember if it was hacked up or not because it was so long ago now. But you make a good point, installing a lot of oversized after market head units requires either fully removing, or modifying the rear brace. There are some modern units that have slimmed down by giving up the disc player though.

There are definitely worse connectors than the blue push downs, but they definitely aren't the best. There are definitely ways to improve the install.

😂

Patrick, I did some research and found the dash you kit you most likely will need would be the SCOSCHE GM5602DDSHB and Amazon offers them in multiple colors here: amzn.to/30G3kDU . (Shale is the most likely color based on that pic, but you can decide which of the colors you want based on that link). If I'm not mistaken the extra connector you have looks like a GMC Slave/Aux Input plug. Usually these are for CD changers or external additional tape decks sometimes found in vehicles of this vintage. These auxiliary devices (multi-disc cd changers, extra tape decks etc. usually do not work with after market equipment. Assuming the photos are of your truck and it having the On-star and thus Bose radio options ( I don't recall these options being separate) you will need the PAC AOEM-GM21A which allows you retain all the factory features. You can find that here: amzn.to/2NsSJd6

The additional small black connector would remain disconnected in your install as well.

Thank you so much for your respond, I don't believe my car has bose system and rather just stick stereo, which then means the additional black harness is probably aux/onstar then, I could just leave it. First time I see the frame with the color I wanted, thank you so much, but if I am excluding the aux/onstar harness I need the basic harness for my car, shouldn't be too hard. Thank you so much for your respond :))

And the shale color looks abit lighter than what I have, i don't know for sure fho, however, it would look disgusting if it's a mismatch, maybe I should safe it and go with black..

@@P47RICKG You could paint either to match more closely if you feel confident with a paint can, and I just went with basic black. While it looks off set from the rest of the dash it isn't terrible. I looked around and couldn't find any information Bose / On star being separate options. I checked every fitment guide online I could find and most said 'on-star w/ Bose' and did not list an On-star option solo so I would assume these options weather mentioned or not are intertwined.