Easy Factory Amp Bypass 2002 Chevy Tahoe GMC Yukon 

Glad it helped!

what do you mean?

Which kit?

From the factory amp in the dashboard. Same 24 pin harness is used on the back of the radio as on the factory amp. Hard to find it in there

It worked perfectly, if I could post a photo I would. It was advertised as an amp bypass for an impala/monte Carlo and came prewired, didn't have to do any modifications. It was pretty much plug and play for my 02 Yukon, amp was in the same spot as this video

Nice work! I've been listening to Hard Rock/Metal/Thrash since the 80's so I understand the need for a good sound system. Thanks for watching.

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks for watching!

thanks so much for watching!

Don’t u have to bypass the amp just to play any music at all when putting in a new head unit ....??? Had a 2002 Yukon before Wouldn’t play nothin

Glad it helped

Glad to help!

When you say both, what do you mean. This video shows amp bypass. What else can I bypass.

U just saved me so much time thank u good sir

@@danielkruckenberg9882 np at all. 👍

Me too been working on this damn thing for three days now

Everywhere says it’s the 2000-2001 Monte Carlo/impala is that the correct one?

@@randymurdock2547 the harness? Oh what do you mean?

thanks for watching

With stock radio?

@@danielduncan8345 yeah I still have the stock radio in. I might make a video on it. So when I do I’ll send it.

So your saying installing that part , with stock radio , you will have sound out of door speaking ?

@@danielduncan8345 all 4 door speakers work yes. It’s wired the same way he stated in the video that he’s using

Hey, when using the Metra 70-2021, how does it effect the sub and rear d pillar speakers? Thanks for sharing btw!

appreciate the comment.

How did the 70-2021 work out with your install. I have a new head to put in and want to bypass the amp...

@@michaelgracephotography8308 Worked good, all the speakers still worked including the sub. I replaced the OEM speakers with Infinity Ref and a pioneer shallow mount sub.

@@draconis112 I've ordered what I need, can't wait.

does that not work when using factory speakers?😂

Thanks for watching

That's what I'm going to try. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

No

Google it, basically is one thick wire with all 4 speaker wires inside to easy connect all together

A group of wires with different counts. Most run a 9-wire. Has 9 wires. 8 pairs and 1 remote wire.

I also have a problem like that bro I hit a bump once and now it starts playing for like 2 minutes and then I lose power

Really? That's F'ed up. Why wouldn't GM fix that error? I'm about to by pass and wire up an entire after market system in a 2001 Tahoe and your comment has me worried

Jack khol if you can test it from the head unit all the way to the speaker's you won't have a problem but what I found is that all the positive and negatives are reversed in the schematics for the Chevy there is also a polarity Checker CD or download for your phone that you can buy and then you put the tester at the speakers to test them after you get everything installed and make sure they're correct you can buy them from China for like 15 bucks call the speaker polarity tester I don't know why everybody doesn't have them

Thanks for the reply. So you are saying every Chevy during these years are like this? I'm working on a 2001 Tahoe without Bose system.

And it seems like I could just reverse the leads at the speakers if that was the case correct?

Jack khol I'm just saying you can't trust any wiring schematics part of the problem is the rear speakers were 4 ohm speakers and they flip the polarity around on the speaker connectors so they reverse the wires but the problem seems to be that the A&B is not labeled correctly for positive and negative and nobody has ever picked up on that and nobody really ever checks they just put speakers in and hook them up the same way they were and realistically if all your speakers are wired in reverse polarity you probably won't notice it much but they do make cheap polarity Checkers to tell you if they are in phase to me all these high-end stereo shop should be using polarity Checkers because a lot of people's cars I work on I check them and their speakers are wired in reverse polarity

So glad to help!

Glad I could help

I'm not 100% sure how it was originally wired to the sub. I added an aftermarket amp and sub and wired them directly and did the amp bypass.

jes1kbs2002 jk

How did you do it man im going crazy with mine

If you are installing an aftermarket amp, you can run speedwire to the amp, or rerun your speaker wires directly to the amp. I have a 5 channel amp. One for each speaker and a subwoofer.

It was not a problem for me, but I can't say for sure, all my stuff was 4 ohm. Hopefully someone else will chime in...

So just buy the 70-2021 and would work just fine??

@@TheTaterhead09 I believe the 70-2021 might be reversed IIRC. So it works, but rights are lefts, or maybe fronts were backs, there was something inverted about it like that. So, to get it working 100% you'll have to swap the pins around a little. It might also have the + and - inverted as is, which won't sound great either.

If done right, it can be reversed so the factory amp will work. However, once you apply the mod, the point is to use a better aftermarket amp.

Sure you figured out by now but just in case LOL. If you are installing a sub only and have factory Hu you run a proper and that matches as close in rms not peak to you sub so sub handles 600 rms at 2 ohm then try and find a ame with a rms of 600 watts rms is steady power what it outputs like 1200 watt doesn't matter as much as rms in all speaker installs. Then your run the RCA and Renate wire which is what I assume your referencing as the speed wire. That goes into the back of Hu they make adapter for stuck headuncts called line convert out I think,, basically extra part I0 connect your rea and remote wire non of you already have aftermarket hardest which I wou ld get first for any upgrade you went need the loc it will have RCA and remote wire connect on radio harness already. Same goes for door speakers get a 4 channel run set of RCA and remote wire to headunit and then speaker wire goes from amp to each door speaker. You have a +/- wire going to each and that's how gu run aftermarket speakers and amp. You can also get a five channel amp, which will give you the same concept except you only have to run one set of RCA’s and remote wire(speed wire). There are other configurations and I’m pretty sure you can buy RCA wires to run directly in some head units and amplifiers. I’m sure there’s other tips in anyone will correct me if I’m wrong, but this is just a general explanation. Also, you will have to run your power wire and ground wire for the amp obviously but I didn’t mention that. Hopefully you were able to figure it out either way. .

Same here. Super stinks

Depends on the new head unit. I'd prob go with one or the other based on installation time/effort rather than performance if the difference is only trivial. You'd have to be more specific about your factory and new equipment if you wanted to get a specific answer though. Good luck on your project!

What about the vol control on the steering wheel?

I pulled the RDO AMP fuse and lost all audio...

did you ever find this out? i assume you can leave the pink wire out because the harness bypass just connects the 8 speaker wires together forming a complete circuit excluding factory amp

Hey Tahoe Victor. Keep me posted on what you do to your Tahoe.

Yeah, you can wire in a second harness as well that plugs into the amp to make the tweeters, D pillar speakers, and stock sub work as well. That was the first diagram he showed in the video.

I'm having the same issue. I've removed the clip but the amp won't move. I feel like I'm going to break something if I force it.

EVH forever! Anytime

many thanks!

My plan is to physically remove the amp. Maybe even go far as removing the wiring. I’m doing a full system in my 03 with Bose. I’m gonna trace and label each speaker wire. And tap in them thru the back of the radio. Or if not I’ll just tap into them from the factory amp location. I’m gonna put the amp under the passenger seat anyways. So I’ll need a short run from my speed wires to the harness at the amp. I’m not tryin to revert to stock anytime soon. Lol Bose is nice. But much nicer set ups out there. It is a bit dated. It’s time for an upgrade.

Let me know what route you took. I plan on doing a full upgrade. So I’ll let you know how it goes.

@@Username-ng8jy I ended up getting a 2010 tahoe with Bose and put another amp and a 12’ sub into it, so I went a seperate way

@@nateweiner8890 ah ok man. That’s cool man. Hope you enjoy the ride. I got an 2003 I got earlier this year. With the holidays coming up. And free time. I’m finally fucking with my tahoe. Just got my tranny rebuilt with sonnax shift kit corvette servo and upgraded converter. Got carpet on order. And need to repair my headliner. I got a wood steering wheel I’m refinishing. Black Friday deals popped up so I’m ordering my sound equipment.

Smart..

Speedwire can be eliminated by going directly from an aftermarket amp to the speakers.

Hi, Jacob, I have been trying to bypass my 2000 suburban amp. Which wiring harness bypass do I need?

@@briank6357 this harness that he made works perfect. For the 2000 suburban. Only problem was that the harness was missing one pin. So if you have an extra harness sitting around you could take a pin from it. The harness I used was the Metra 70-2002 and followed the instructions in the video. Works perfect. No rear sub though or rear tweets. But i added a cvr so no need for factory sub.

My setup assumes a second 5 channel amp so it would not apply to you (unless I missed somewhere that you do have a second amp). When i said i did not care if my "rear" speakers worked, I was referring to the tiny tweeters in the way back (D piller). I was not referring to the rear door speakers. Those do work. Hope that helped

the point of the video is so you can follow along and just do it.

yes.

@@TahoeSteve ok but when I tie my harness together all I should tie together is my power ,signal and ground right the door speakers in the front are disconnected but there are still some speakers in the back that are not disconnected so even though I have my main speakers I'm going to be using running straight from my amp if I tie the harness in color to color for all wires then the leftover speakers are going to be running through the factory amp and make it sound like crap right ? Kind of a rhetorical question lol it just sucks because I want to use them highs

Thanks for watching!

thanks for watching

i dont think it will work if you have a Bose system. hopefully someone who knows for sure will chime in

good tip, thanks for sharing

thank you for the amp bypass tip if u can find one for a Nissan Mariano let me know

Did you figure this out? My battery has been dead 2 days in a row after full charges.

Nicolas Brown yes It did I bought this bypass from amazon for like 10$ my problems was that my amp was staying not turning off, I recommend pulling the amp fuse if it fixes the problems buy the bypass, it’s cheaper than a used amp and it sounds 10x much better without it

Thanks so much for watching

I believe the stock rear speakers are 8 ohm speakers and they may only work with the factory amp which pushes 8 ohms to the back speakers. If you bypass the factory amp to the back speakers, they may not work because the head unit does not push 8 ohms. I’m about to get into this situation so that’s why I’m replacing the stock rear speakers with 4 ohm speakers to match with my head unit. This should also be the same if you are using a non-factory amp.

Are you referring to the sub or the small door speakers in the rear passenger doors?

I don't know because mine was not Bose to start with. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Connect blue w/ white line wire to your red 12+ and it will bypass,well it worked for my 06tahoe and 10.1 android head unit. May be diff for your vehicle