Installing a New Parking Brake 

There's lots of laughs when I'm working on the car, mostly laughing at myself. I make some silly mistakes, but it doesn't always end up in the video. :)

Haha, thanks! Yes, it's difficult to film under the car, but doubly difficult to weld under the car while on your back. ;)

Exactly. :)

Awesome, thanks! Good luck on your car. :)

You are very welcome!

No problem, thank you.

Thanks, will do!

Wow, thanks!

My pleasure!

No problem! :)

Glad you enjoyed it! :)

Awesome, thanks for the support!

Glad it helped! :)

Awesome, glad I can help! :)

Haha, you're welcome. :)

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Welcome!

Depends on the location. :)

No problem! :)

Thanks!

Thanks. Grease gun is perfect, got keep the grease industry in business somehow. :)

Sounds great, good luck!

It’s on the list.

@@AndyKruseChannel you should post the list, and have your 6k subscribers vote on your next project.

Thanks for the info

I didn't see anything like that when I was looking for all the parts for this install, but it sounds like a nice feature to have. I'll see if I can find anything. Yeah, sometimes it feels like a circus working on this car, I thought the music fit the feeling. :)

There's a hole below the steering column that is sort of punched through at an angle. I think once you get in there it should be obvious. There's apparently a bushing/sleeve/thing that goes there around the parking cable to keep it from rubbing on the sheet metal, and I missed it. A viewer pointed it out, I figured I'd fix that next time I was in that area of the car. :)

Thanks! Yes, while you're in there, it's a good idea to replace the other components inside the drum system. You can typically get a spring and clip kit for cheap, but it might be worth it to replace the wheel cylinders if they look old. It will require bleeding of the brake lines, but it's good to do while you're there. The parking brake cables are likely fine, they may just need tightening up. Since you're touching on the safety portion, if not you're not going for a numbers-matching car, I strongly recommend upgrading to a dual bowl master cylinder if you don't already have it. The reason is if any part of the hydraulic system fails with a single bowl master cylinder, all the brakes fail. A dual bowl separates the front from the rear and so if one fails you'll still have the other and can stop the car. I had this very issue on my first Mustang (back in 2015) and the brakes failed on the way home after buying the car. I had to use the parking brake to stop the car, it was super scary.

Awesome, I love it when people are able to pull something of value from these videos. 😁

@@AndyKruseChannel 1 year later and i finally got to re-assembly and came back to reference this video, so thanks again

It's a QuickJack. I have a review video about it on my channel. :)

The item you are referring to is a generic fused distribution box I found on eBay. They're all over the internet, nothing fancy about that particular unit. :)

More music? Got it. :)

Sorry Brotha, I don't have access to a Ford 500, although I wish I did. I get a lot of requests like yours and I wish I was able to make videos on other cars, like the 500. :)

Correct, I do not have that seal-thing. However, based on how everything fits down there, it doesn't look like the cable contacts the firewall. But I could be wrong.

Not sure what you're getting at here, but the brake handle says "brake", as does every other emergency brake handle I've seen for these cars. Further, the master cylinder has nothing to do with the emergency brake, there is nothing that connects the two. :)

Yes. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks

I use the crossbar.

@@AndyKruseChannel that crossbar since is curved will put pressure on frame rails pushing them out. It is definitely noticeable when replacing inner fenders and frame rails and measurements are constantly being taken. Motor mounts don't hold the frame rails together since they are rubber or even polyurethane mounts have some give. I use, and others I know use the adjustable cross member attached to floor jack and go under the lower control arms. We lay a 2x8 about 2 ft long on the floor on each side and drive front wheels on to them. That gives the clearance for the crossmember of the floor jack to clear the oil pan and lift the car with the rubber pads of the floor jack under the lower control arms. This I believe, causes less stress on the frame rail welds. Not telling you what to do, only a suggestion. Its a beautiful car.

That list getting shorter is a good thing, then it's time to spend money on the fun stuff! :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Did you decide what seats you want?

@@eddievantailn2882 Not yet, I'm really struggling with buying something so expensive that is so subjective. When it comes to performance parts, I know what I want and I know how they work, so it's easier to make the decision. For the seats, if they don't look right or don't feel right, I'll probably take a bath on them trying to sell them since they'd be used and people won't pay a fair price for them. It's something that I'll have to take a chance on. :)

@@AndyKruseChannel Oh how I struggled with my decision, going the inexpensive route was something I thought would bite me for sure. I cannot tell you how pleased I am with what I selected, not only do they feel great but the style was period correct so they look like they belong in my car. Also, I'm just under 5'9" so the seats work, as you know this can be a factor.

Dude, there's over 400 videos on my channel, you've got a few more to get through before assumptions can be made. :)