Thanks for posting this excellent video on using the Murphy Door hinges. I must have watched over a dozen videos on this and yours was the only one that made sense to me or at least conformed to what I had planned. You are absolutely right that Murphy Door does not provide enough info to help the do-it-yourselfer when it would be so easy for them to do so. I called one time and got no help. I'm doing an out-swinging door with a width of 24 inches and 7-8 inches deep. I'm a little concerned about the amount of space that will be available to enter the room but I'm going for it. Thanks again for the inspiration.
Thank you for the video and measurements. This will be a big help! Is the sound editing off a bit or is it just me? Felt like it ended in the middle of a sentence?
Okay. Awesome build, but I'm really disappointed. So many comments saying how good it was that you provided measurements. Except for the MOST Important Measurements! What are the offsets for the hinge centers?!?!? Back from the face? In from the end? I've been watching videos on building hidden doors for a long time, but no one gives any of these critical measurements! Do you remember what these measurements are? Thanks for helping.
Thanks for watching. If I understand your question, I relied on the template they provided to I did not really calculate any thing related to the hinge position. It was the swing side I was focusing on since that information was unknown. If I did not understand your question please give me another try…
It looks like the jamb on the swing side isn't square to the sill plate, or the opening. Is that done intentionally or are my eyes just seeing it wrong?
So the jams are existing trim around the opening on a house built in 1952. It’s likely not perfectly square. It all gets covered in molding so you will never see that.
The door opening was just a pass through to the basement with no door. It was grilled out with a piece of 3/4 x 6 trim. Well the actual width is less than 6. Since it was the same depth as a DVD case I made the simple book shelf frame out of the same size trim. But I cut up a mic up on the bottom piece of the shelf and mounted it to the bottom hinge to test its swing clearance. Once it was short enough to swing open that is the size of the top and bottom of the book shelf.
@@thereefaholic is the pass through 32 inches from sided to side, I am looking to do the same but my opening is 32" wide and with a 6" deep shelf when open will only have about 25" of space to walk through I'm thinking that a little tight.
Yes when open the pass through is narrow. About shoulder width. I pop the shelf out when I get it something big in there. It’s a poling with a ball Bering so the door is removable. The opening is about a standard door opening. I am not there to measure.
I’m sure they do. For me it’s not about burglars more than it was a place to put my DVD’s in my home theater and block off an opening to the basement .
What Material did you use for the book case? I was curious to know if you set the upper screws in adhesive like you did with the lower jam. Thanks for the video..... was exactly what we DIY's need
The book case is poplar. Holds paint well. The upper screws went into a wood header so no glue. I felt the weight on the bottom hung along with movement may loosen up the Tapcon screws over time so I added some adhesive .
@@mhgrabow is it 3/4 poplar? Also, during your video you used an upper and lower test piece to get your gap length and clearance. Did you just use those template holes for installation on the actual shelf or remeasure for absolute plumb on your hinges ?
@@mhgrabow Appreciate the video and expertise. Working this project this week and cannot express how helpful this whole video has been and of course, the math is essential. Not sure why Murphy keeps this information hidden. Liked and subscribed.
Yes on the back dose there is one of those peg locks like you have on a fence. A wire pull release made from a coat hanger comes under the shelf and you can pull it with your finger. But I drilled a bunch of earth magnets into the molding to hold it closed and flat and the lock is only for emergencies. Yes those hinges were around that much. There were some cheaper ones on eBay but they looked quite cheaply made so I think these were well worth the money.
Yes my book case is 5.5” deep so basic Home Depot or Lowes 6” poplar boards. (No rip cuts) I don’t have a video on building the bookshelf itself. But it is a simple use of pocket screws rabbit joints and dato’s. The face frame also uses pocket screws on the backside. You could find several videos on bookshelf building in face frames. So I didn’t bother making that video. Sorry
Ok sounds good. And I have the hinges but I’m trying to find where I put the hinges at the bottom right identical to yours. Did you have to print off that paper where it says to put the bottom hinge?
Yes I needed to print off the paper. At least for the bottom then used a laser to align it up top. I’m f I remember correctly there was some issue with the print. All another reason to start with a simple board and only a couple short screws before you commit
If I was doing the inswing door. And I’m using my laser as well. What do I line up the top with to match the bottom. So confusing and Murphy won’t tell any info
@@kennyconley8383 The Laser is to line up the top hinge and bottom hinge on a door that swings in or out. when you get the bottom hinge location figured out, you can use the laser to like up any part of the hinge. so you can do the center of the pin hole, the edge of the pin hole, a particular screw hole, the edge of the metal plate, ets... Just have sure whatever your laser is aligned with on the bottom hinge, you use the very same reference point on the top hinge. I think Murphy just wants you to buy their kits and if you dont they dont seem to offer much assistance.
