I'm building my deck the same way. All in all it'll cost me an extra $100, but I'm not building it with profit in mind. The deck I'm replacing was built all kinds of wrong and still lasted 50 years. I know mine will be level, square, and much stronger in the end, and will outlast me.
The problem with this is the water doesn’t drain and once you put deck boards over this it will eventually rot out. I do dock repair and anytime the wood is deteriorating it’s situations like this where water can’t drain and gets trapped.
“Sometimes they’re very smug in their videos, but that’s just what you gotta deal with.” Lol. Yep. And they’re all over the help forums, too. Very smug.
Very matter-of-fact. Gets right down to business. Carefully explained. Good demonstration. This type of installation should satisfy the code the way the post is blocked and bolted. As Wood Doo told us, "This post will be rock solid for a good 30 years. Good Job!
I’m finishing up building my deck with my father in law. Thanks to my wonderful wife she had to get her dad involved. I’m very thankful he helped(since I never built a deck before) but what he had in mind and what I have in mind were complete opposites. He seemed to do the minimum to build a basic deck. Me on the other hand would have rather had an overbuilt, decorative deck and done my posts similar to yours. I would have loved to use cedar wood or possibly high quality composite decking. I’d rather save up my money for the highest quality material I can afford and take my time building it in hopes I’ll get a very long life from it.
Nice, I like the idea of handrail posts being bolted to the inside of the “rim” . I also like that same post going all the way down to the ground. Also a drop beam 18 inches away.
You aren’t a professional, which explains why you did it to last! I really like your approach. A professional would be in and out as soon as possible. Thx!
Great presentation. I am going to be building a 12' x 16' shade area on my deck. I am using 6" x 6" pt posts for the corners and the top rail. I found your video informative. Thank you for sharing.
Yes, I think with 2 half inch carriage bolts and a double banded rim to attach them, I believe it couldn't support a 6 foot wall. The blocking around the base of the post would be critical.
I like everything about this connection but instead of carriage bolts (which I thought about using) I chose 1/2” galvanized hex heads with a large washer. So I could get the added surface contact. But I’m not a contractor either. I start more projects than I finish too, so….Hey, I liked the art on your intro, subscribed!
@@wooddoofus I agree, I only used hex bolts because there’s a 2x8 fascia board installed over them. A lot of it I guess just has to do with layout of the deck.
Just read a site from a screw manf IIRC, and they suggest using 2x washers on a CB, one on the nut end and one on the head end. Using the washer gives you ~30% more surface area which translates to more clamping force before the head starts pulling under the surface of the board. A little tricky to find washers with a square hole, and to keep it from spinning while torquing.
Very good well explained video. Can't see a pro doing it any better especially when the original post design had the structural screw buried into solid air!
I wish I was more forward thinking. I thought about making this video after I was done installing. I have some more posts coming up on my endless deck project. I will try to remember to make a video with the process. Thanks for watching!
I actually built my deck very similarly. The only thing is the bolts should go through your double rim joists because the joist load (shear load weight) is being transferred from your joists to your dbl rim joist and your ledger. The way you have it the weight that the bolts are carrying is only on the outer rim joists
Just deleted a long comment, however what he did makes good sense. If he ran the CB's front to back as you suggest, where would the nuts end up? On the back of the 4x4, or the scrap 4x4? That doesn't give him any forward-back support except for some screws in the sides. The way he did it, the 4x4 already constrained by joists on either side, and its forward-back movement is restrained by the 2 CBs running side to side. If that 4x4 ever really starts moving, it'll take enough force that it'll blow that scrap 4x4 with the itty-bitty screws right out of the way. I've got a lot of posts not near a joist and was going to run them with CB front to back as I have a double rim joist and blocking behind from joist to joist. Now I'm rethinking because of the above, but doing that on a non-corner might be impossible. Either way, he's got 2 1/2" bolts running through his 4x4 through a joist on either side, so probably not much flex for the front rim joist. Heavy enough weight might start splitting the side joists, but if he adds a 2x behind that scrap 4x4 he can get some additional support from the joist behind it.
@boots7859 why would anyone add 2x blocking behind a larger joist? I block with the same dimension as I frame. So my bolts went through double 2x10 rim joists, the 4x4 post and through a 2x10 blocking that was secured between two joists. Deck frame is solid and built to support the full load transfer from the joist through the CBs.
Great suggestions thanks. I'm planning to upgrade our existing deck where most of it needs replacing. I'd like to have seen how you assembled the fittings you describe which would have been really useful...
Thanks for watching! I'm not exactly sure what fittings you're asking about. I do have a deck series playlist on my channel with more videos to come. Like you, I've been upgrading my existing deck for almost 2 years now. 🤣
@@wooddoofus Apologies for not being clearer. I was referring to the actual procedure for assembling the upright post with its supports so I actually see how and in what order you put it together. I need to replace my upright posts so it would be useful
Oh, I gotcha. For me, I clamp on an oversized post in place after I round over the corners. 48 inches usually is plenty so I can trim the top off to it's final height with a circ saw. I clamp it as I use the post leveler and then set it with some decking screws. This is a good time to add the blocking. Then I drill all the way through with my half inch bit. I pound the bolts in with a hammer and add the washers and nuts to the other end. Tighten with a crescent wrench. Good luck on your deck!
@Wood Doofus don't get me wrong, if you sealed all your cuts with say green copper or whatever it wouldn't be an issue for many many years. Everyone has an opinion these days though haha! I'm in the middle of doing this almost exactly the same. I just have some 4x8 pt board scraps I got from work that I'm using instead of 4x4. Doing it the exact same way. Keep up the good work!
And add a 2x behind it so it can get support from that other joist. Get a gallon of liquid rubber instead of joist tape. I've got a couple coats on a 48x16 deck and still have more than 1/2 5g bucket left. Takes longer, but way cheaper and much thicker than actual joist tape.
I'm doing a 46x16 and doing my posts similar to yours. The science behind doing posts is worth thinking about. You can run a couple hefty carriage bolts through the outside rim joist through the 4x4 with a washer/bolt on the back. This is probably the norm for DIY'ers, and while strong back and forth, and side to side, the back and forth will twist your rim joist. Doubling up the rim joist with a lot of deep screws into the joists is a not too expensive addition which will help a lot with that flexing. A lot of my posts seem to fall in the middle of a joist run, so I am adding a 2x scrap on both sides and a blocker behind the 4x4. The 2x scraps just give a little more left-right support to the 4x4, and the blocker behind the 4x4 support it from back and front leaning or pulling on the railing and rim joist flexing. I've got about 18 posts, and saved about 25-30% by going with 1/2" x 7' galv hex bolts, 2 washer and a nut. Putting a slight countersink on the rim joist and similar on the inside of the facia piece alleviates the problem is seeing hex heads. I also ended up getting 5g Liquid Rubber to coat the ~1000 LF of joists vs joint tape. JT would have run $300-400 minimum, while the LR was $180 5g and I still have about 1/2 left.
