Good video Elin. I put those adjustable brackets on my TR6 a few years ago and ran into the same problems with the bolts as you pointed out and your solution would have been much easier. Keep up the good work. 😎👍 Jerry
Nice video! You can measure camber in you home shop with a string, a plumb bob, some tape and a tape measure and some math. Simply attach the plumb bob to the string and tape the string to the body of the car so it hangs down the over the centerline of the wheel. Now measure the distance from the string to the top of the rim and do the same to the bottom of the ring. With those two measurements you can now figure out the camber angle.
Thanks so much for the video , it really helps, my brother has a TR6 almost a twin to the one you are working on , we are doing rear ended seals , Thanks
Interesting to see the set up and modifications that have been made available. I must admit I've never really understood the terminology around the geometry. What I do know is that they charge a lot just to do the tracking, I think it's to cover the cost of the digital machines not the labour. I think Rusties tail looks stout enough to torque those bolts up!! Good luck from Spain!!
Modern vehicles have a completely different suspension geometry The rear suspension of a TR6 is complicated because any change of camber on the rear wheels can independently misalign either rear wheel, regardless of proper alignment of the front wheels. Once the front wheels are in alignment, you must adjust the rear suspension to ride height because any deflection of ride height will affect the direction of wheel direction. For example, the driver side ride height is low. The negative camber (top of wheel is more close to centerline) will cause the left rear wheel to point towards the front right. Everything is vis-versa. Withe the TR6, because of rear frame and suspension geometry, you must adjust the rear suspension to be equal first, irrespective of the front. Remember ....more weight on the rear of a TR6 creates negative camber (both rear wheels tracking to the opposite front wheel). The less desirable geometry is positive camber, which would result in loss of directional control of the car. That 30°+ sqew of the suspension trailing arm mounts to the frame creates this kaka. Have you ever seen a TR with positive camber? Equalise ride height first to adjust camber to neutral. Check the frame for damage/geometry and correct if possible Rear suspension of TR6 is .....kaka
Good job Elin. Although looking at the inner wheel well just above the spring, it looks as if it could do with a little tickle with the welder before it deteriorates any further.
Elin I know you mentioned it, but it deserves repeating. Whenever you are working around the trailing arm mounting points, give the frame a careful inspection for rust damage. Water can get in around those mounting holes and rust the frame from the inside out. If the mounting area fails, your day can become very exciting, very quickly!😬
Elin, nice job explaining the geometry and the functionality! Those adjusters allow for a few degrees of change, so if I understand correctly, there still could be the need to change the number of shims if you ran out of adjustment on the adjustable trailing arm brackets. Not likely, but both affect the position of the trailing arm geometry, yes?
Thanks for another useful video. Is the plan with the adjustable brackets to set it up as per original Triumph spec. There is some good information about the standard brackets on Buckeye Triumphs website, but I'm sure that you will be aware of this already. Incidentally, I guess you had one task on your mind, but I am a bit surprised that you didn't replace the trailing arm bump-stop rubber. Might have been easier to at least crack the thread on it while the trailing arm was off the car. The rebound rubber under the shock absorber arm is still there, but looks pretty chewed up, so maybe you are planning a video covering both replacements!
I was just taking apart my rear suspension today to I can clean it up and replace all the bushings. Easy enough except for all the seized bolts. DO you recommend Poly bushing for all the suspension? My rubber ones are mostly all rotted away. What type of bushing kit should I get?
I believe you can buy them from a few places that resell them, but the origin is Good Parts www.goodparts.com/product/trailing-arm-bracket-kit-adjustable/