Thank you for making this video. I am replacing a small amount of the old plumbing for my bath and shower. The shower head had a regular 90 degree elbow (not a drop ear elbow). It looks like the drop-ear has a couple of holes for wood screws so that the elbow can be attached to the framing. My old shower/bath has no framing up at the top, and there was nothing holding the shower-head in place except for the pipe. I have no wood framing, and the elbows and pipes have no clamps to hold them onto anything. I suppose my first order of business should be to put in some wood framing.
Awesome video as always Kordare. The Guest bathroom is coming along awesomely can't wait to see what you've got in store for the outdoor entertainment area.
Would definitely insulate the bathroom and use 5/8 sheetrock on both sides. It make a huge difference with noise when the shower is in use and the added privacy is nice being in the main living space.
Some states in usa goes irc plumbing codes , some others Upc codes. By upc codes that 1 1/2"trap arm for the vanity can not be extended more than 42" from the vent tee and also you can't use more than 90 degrees, otherwise you need to install a cleanout
A lot of nice work done there! A few things that need to be fixed though with the washroom to be code. The trap arm for the sink is too long for the diameter pipe for 1.5" pipe, the length has to be 6" or less. And the direction can't change more than 130 degrees. There also either needs to be a window or a vent fan that can handle the volume of air in the bathroom.
All in all a pretty good job. The only thing I see that is wrong is your first tee on the cold side should be 3/4x1/2x1/2. The tee that you used to connect to your system on the cold side should be 3//4x3/4x3/4 (3/4” Tee). Good job, though.
1-1/2" drain for a lav can only go a maximum of 6 ft before connecting to the vent.. I believe your lav is too far away from the vent and is basically unvented. Also, you are allowed a maximum of 135 degrees change of direction on that pipe before connecting it to the vent.. you exceeded that with 2 90 degree elbows. An air admittance valve behind the wall above flood level with a sanitary tee instead of a 90 degree elbow could have possibly been a fix depending on your local building codes.
No problem, you can increase the pipe size to give yourself longer distance before the vent connects. 2" pipe can go 8' and 3" can go 12' but that's obviously crazy for a sink drain. An AAV is definitely the easiest fix here.
@Tom-y1j possibly, but it's based off pipe diameter and slope. So it's not just a made up number. A 2" pipe can't fall more than 2" overall before reaching a vent. 2" ÷ 0.25" per foot is 8'. In most jurisdictions, that would probably be fine. Of course you're better off tying in the vent close to fixture anyway. Is there anything helpful you can say, or are you just being a troll? The same way you say it wouldn't be allowed there, I can easily find many places where that would work. Also, what isn't allowed? Increasing pipe size to increase your distance before venting? That's a pretty universal solution that would work anywhere.
Another great video, the rubber couplings are called ferncos. Did you drop your sink drain a 1/4 " per foot ? Nice work on the tub drain that was cool.
Do you have some sort of manifold somewhere in order to shut off water to select sections? Might have been nice to stuff one in the wall space near there and have an access panel.
Fantastic job. Great diy project. I didn't see a p trap on the tub but assuming it was down there from the rough in process. Those white main lines...are they pex A or B? You may have mixed them and they will leak soon.
Thanks! From everything I could tell they were the same version I used, since everything fit in the exact same manner on the fittings and I checked all crimp connections with the gauge.
@@Kordarebrother please hear me. That's PEX A that you crimped to pex B. Please Google the difference. You cannot do that your line is going to blow off randomly and destroy that entire bathroom
Using pex for the tub spout connection will restrict this line due to its smaller inner diameter and often will cause a drip from the shower head while the tub is being run. Should be run in copper.
@@wrenchboostboi8994 that’s actually not true. Both pex a and pex b have fittings that insert into the pipe which restrict the flow. Copper fittings go over the pipe for example and do not restrict flow.
@@i.bleed.green.2081naaw it is true… pex B fittings are much smaller due to the fact of having to fit into the inside diameter of the pex pipe, minus the width of the fitting walls as well. This makes a pexB fitting restrict flow by about 1/3 the normal rate. Pex A fittings are made so the fitting fits exact to the inside diameter of the pipe, so all that you lose is the fittings wall width - which would restrict flow by a much lesser extent. A pexB fitting would literally fit inside a pexA fitting… the size difference is not negligible.
@@wrenchboostboi8994 I’ve personally installed pex A on a tub spout and had the result in speaking of. There might be a difference in diameter but it still causes an issue. That’s why everyone, including the video maker, goes another direction.
Not sure if there is a "fart fan" in there might want to consider it to reduce humidity in the bathroom, as far as your sink drain you essentially created a wet vent for your tub and im not sure but I hope there's a p trap in the ground for the tub drain . You used a nice copper stubout for your toilet but not the lavatory? Anyhow overall good clean work
Yes I installed a vent fan in here. I installed a check valve vent under the sink, and yes there is a p trap under the concrete for the tub. Used copper for the toilet because it is left exposed, more prone to potential sunlight or getting hit. Thanks!
i noticed a clean out cap by the bottom plate on the wall where the vent stack is. Will you be placing an access door for that on other side of that wall.
I see only half inch lines ( hot and cold ) in my basement . If I take a water supply from half inch lines for the basement bathroom and kitchen , is there any water pressure issue ?
I never said up or down. I said the valve directs the water. (valve: a device for controlling the passage of fluid or air through a pipe, duct, etc., especially an automatic device allowing movement in one direction only.) I understand how the diverter works. My question was, why did you use 3/4" pipe from the valve to the tub spout instead of 1/2" pipe? Your answer was that if you don't use 3/4" pipe (If you don't do that) from the valve to the tub spout it will come out of the shower head? @@Kordare
You wrote something like... "I cannot wait for the season finale: The First Flush". This video was make for people who are doing a bathroom re-model or putting in a new bathroom. The video is not meant for entertainment really; it's an educational video or instructional video. It's not really meant to be fun to watch, just informational.
Personally where the toilet will be I would have the double sink vanities instead and where the sink is going to be at I would have the toilet Just more privacy
