thank you for the quick response. I will have plenty more questions down the road as I am forced to remodel my shower because i had some tiles cave in when I barely bumped them with my knee and discovered that the previous owner of our house remodeled the shower and only used sheet rock! and no waterproofing what so ever! so im in the process of tearing it all down and drying it out and starting from scratch. great videos!!!
If your installation is in a shower, than watch my Waterproofing your Shower-how to tile a shower wall video. I talk about this in that video. However I am working on several videos right now and I will make sure I get that video in the near future. When taping joints I always use a fiberglass tape. I put it over the joints first, then spread a layer of thin set over that. In the shower I use a waterproofing membrane to fill most of the cracks. Let me know if you have any more questions.
Cement board is much more durable. It is cement all the way through and when tile is attached to it it becomes one. Most of the time if you try to take a piece of tile off a piece of cement board, the cement board will come with it. If you do the same thing with gypsum then only a layer of paper will come off. If gypsum gets wet it's not savable, where cement board can withstand water. Choose cement board, it is the right way to go!!
Hey partner I just wanna say that I've seen hundreds and hundreds of videos and I have to say stay on point like you've been doing,your videos are fantastic I love them they are very very helpful thank you so very much....
You made me smile with the 16-3/4" "big" measurement. I thought I was the only one that did that except I usually use + or - for 1/32" adjustments. I do a lot of tile and stone work and always like to see how other craftsmen do their work. Looks like you do good work!
Very detailed and practical demo! Especially about the lip of the tub stuff. I have the same problem about the tub lip and this video gives a good solution
I like the way you protected that tub! I am getting ready to do this and have just installed an expensive whirlpool tub. I am going to have to really protect that during the process. Thanks!
Steve, Great comment! I understand your concern and if you use the proper insulation along with a vapor barrier, then waterproof the cement board with hydroban , you will not have any problems. I live in Minnesota and the weather is the same. Humidity is very high and drastic temperature changes are constant. We don't get 110 degrees but it get's hot. Be sure to use the best possible insulation that you can and mold will not be an issue. People have problems because they skip important steps.
KernelFactory, I did not use green board anywhere! I used cement board all throughout the shower. I always use cement board in a wet area like a shower. If use green board outside of a wet area that would be fine. For example: the walls in the bathroom that do not get wet, but it is in a damp area. I know that there claim is it's safe, but I personally only trust cement board in my tile installations. Keep in mind that when using green board, the tile is only sticking to a piece of paper.
I've watched a few of these videos on other channels and this is the best one by far, step by step and done in real time with great explanation along the way. Thanks very much for taking the time to do this video, I'll check out some of your others too if they are all this good. I feel I'm ready to do it myself now. Much appreciated,.
Since you are putting a vapor barrier over it, it doesn't need to be paper faced. The R value is what is the most important. Your insulation will stop the hot and cold changes from from getting to the wall, which is what causes sweating, that causes mold. I am not an expert in insulation, so you check with someone on that. I am talking to you as if I was in your shoes and what would I do. I have never had a moisture problem with the methods that I am sharing with you, so I believe in it.
Thank you very much! I guess I didn't put it together when you asked about the green board. The green is a paintable membrane(hydro ban) that I put on over the top if the cement board. I appreciate your comments!!
I very much appreciate your advice! I think I might get some attic insulation, that way it wont be faced. Then cover it with the black tar paper and use the hydroban. I think Im just head-tripping it. Thanks again! Im getting closer to being ready to do the shower area, I think I will put up the green sheetrock in the rest of the bathroom first.
thetiefenbruns, I do have shower floor videos on my site and there is a link to it in the description below. The black material behind the cement board is tar paper. I don't have a video on that. It can be used for additional protection from water, but if you are using hydroban in the shower like I demonstrate in my waterproofing a shower video, you will not need the tar paper! Great questions! If you have anymore please ask.You can also ask on my site and there is a link in the description!
I was going to tell you that actually 2 of the walls of this shower are outside walls. I added the area onto the house that the tub sits in. The reason I am very concerned about the waterproofing on those 2 outside walls is the crazy weather here in Oklahoma. It can go from just below freezing at night to 75 degrees or more in a matter of hours, add to that super-high humidity here and temps can get up to 110 degrees in summer. Mold can be a real prob.
I love your videos Man. You're actually going to help me do my first shower and Floors upstairs for my wife. I'm following along with you on all of it. what is the black vapor barrier behind the concrete board you have there? or what would you suggest for me being in California? by the way thank you very much for taking your time to make these super helpful.
KernelFactory, That was a great question and I I hope this helps! Thank you again for your question and I have lots of info on my site. There is a link to it in the description. Thanks, Joe Letendre
Thank you very much for the great comment. I am confident you can do this. I have lots of videos and there is a lot of info on my site. There is a link to it in the description below the video.
Thank you for the great question. The only thing that needs to be done that would be different is to have a vapor barrier behind the cement board. There really is not anything else that needs to be done differently. Hydroban, which is the product I use, can be used on any wall. Just to be sure about your question- are you referring to an outside wall inside the house? Even if you are talking about a wall that is outdoors hydroban will work!! This product is GREAT!!
I very much appreciate your advice! I think I might get some attic insulation, that way it wont be faced. Then cover it with the black tar paper and use the hydroban. I think Im just head-tripping it. If you have a minute I'dlike to ask if you have any videos on tiling the ceiling over the shower/tub? I plan on tiling it. The ceiling over the shower has been lowered and is lower than the rest of the room
Have you ever used Redgard? I am currently renovating our master bathroom and I plan on using hardie in conjunction with Redgard for the shower walls with a Swanstone fiberglass shower base (I installed today). I wanted to use Durock Next Gen (never used it before) because it was recommended to me for shower walls however every board at Home Depot had damaged edges exposing the mesh. When I went to pick up a few boards to put on the lumber cart they all cracked in the middle. Durock seems very brittle in comparison to hardie.
gschum1 No i have not used redguard. I have'nt heard of any failures with it so I'm sure it is fine to use.Durock can be brittle and it gets beat up at the home improvement stores. BUT....once thinset is applied it has the strength you need. I dont like hardi backer for many reasons.
cesarN maria, Thank you for this great question! Just fill that in with thin set. You can spread it with a 6 inch taping knife or use the flat side of your trowel that you will be using when installing your tile. Just make sure that it is even with the cement board and you can use fiberglass tape to reinforce it. It also will help hold the thin set in there. Mix the thin set a little thick so it will not sag and drip out(that's what the tape will help with). Check out my site for more tips.
Thanks for the video. I am using durock for my shower walls, overtop the durock I will be installing full size synthetic marble slabs instead of tile. Basically getting rid of all the grout and tile seams that leaked before. My question, is it recommended to put a vapor barrier between the studs and durock? Or should I just tape the seams?
pretty informative video. thanks for posting. A quick question, i saw that your rested the Durarock on top of the shower base lip. When you tile the shower, did you have the tile itself overhang over the 1/4 inch base lip and did put mortar on that spot of the base lip as well . Its a shiny/ glossy surface and I didnt know if it would stick ? thanks !
+Rob Chiulli Every situation is different but what I did in this situation is I taped that joint with mesh tape and then I painted it with a waterproofing membrane. I then filled that gap with thin set. It solved a few problems for me. I was able to waterproof that area, give the thin set something to stick to and I will never have to worry about cracking. It also helps if there was ever movement in the tub. Again every situation is different. I can help you more if you need it. You can go to my website(there is a link in this video description) and find the link there to my facebook page and post some pics of your situation. I would be glad to help. Hope this helps!
Does working with an outside wall make any difference on the type of waterproofing? Question I have had different answers to, I would appreciate your advice. Thanks~Steve
Thank you Steve! I think you are being smart to make sure you know that what you are doing is right. I am going to be releasing a new series on my site this week! It is on How to Tile Custom Shower from start to finish. It will include a custom shower pan. Check it out and thanks again. Of course a link to my site is in the description below the video! Please keep in touch and let me know how the install is going.
thetiefenbruns, I experience with gypsum backer board and I would not use it! I think the only reason they made this product is for easier installation. I think it is JUNK! I know there claims sound good but it really comes down to this- If you install tile on this type of backer board, the only thing you have attached your tile to is a thin piece of paper that covers the gypsum. That's it! I just think that is not good enough. So I always recommend cement board. Durock 2nd Generation is best.
Thanks so much for your video! What would my wall prep look like if one wall is concrete cinderblock (in an unfinished laundry room)? Would you just put the concrete board on the drywall side and just tile directly onto the cinder block side? Or do I need to make both walls uniform surface first?
Can I use tar paper for added protection on my shower walls before I put up Durock like you did? They are interior walls but it seems quick and easy and may as well staple it up for added water proofing or is that a possible problem??
Hi. I bought hardiebacker do you think I should bring it back and get durorock or wonder board to do shower wall tile? And how much do you gap the board's from the lip of the tub. thanks
I ended up using the 1/2 inch hardiebacker it was the worst to cut had to use a diamond tip blade for my saw was worried about the the bonding to the board when I called hardiebacker they told me to wipe with a damp sponge hopefully won't have a problem only using 6x6 tile so there not heavy next time using the durrock liked the way you just cut right threw it.
For a bathtub surround, where I won't be putting up a redgaurd or other water proofer over the Durock, would you primer the Durock before tiling? Or just tile right over the Durock without any primer? I ask because Versabond says primer should be used over lightweight cement, but Durock has no mention of it. My plan was to use Versabond as a thinset. I have heard of CBU's sucking moisture out of thin-set, any recommendations? Thanks!
+Bryan Boyle If you use a polymer modified, latex modified, fortied thinset there is no need for anything else. I mention all those names because different brands of thinsets use different terms. Just be sure it has a latex additive. I have never primed cement board.
SoThatsHowYouDoThat Thank you! I used Flexbond mortar (polymer-modified) and it adhered quite well without a primer. Amazing how hard it was to remove a tile that needed to be adjusted just seconds after putting it on the wall.
I'm going to replace my walls but don't want to cut up to the ceiling should I just go the height of the durock up, 5ft? then would i just cut a foot off the main side wall if I'm hanging those sideways?
I`m using cement board to sheet my newly framed fireplace wall...there is not going to be any moisture...the firebox is electric...do you think I could use deck screws...and what length of screw are you using on 1/2" board
+Dave Sanderson, Jr. If the tile is going to cover that joint then use tape and thin set otherwise use sheetrock joint compound so it can be sanded smoothly for paint.
so I'm 18 trying to help my parents fix our house. we have to remove all the walls, bathtub, everything to fix it. insulated then make it look new again. so doing so do we do this to our entire bathroom ?
Yes Sir, it is an outside wall, inside the house. I have heard that if you use a vapor barrier behind the cement board and also use the Hydroban it will cause what they refered to as a "mold sandwich" doyou think there is any truth to this?
Just use a skill saw with a diamond blade or a a mini dremel for the really tight cuts.. Damn knives get dull quick and tend to chip away the interior stone sometimes.. Just my 2 c
thanks for the video, very helpful! Quick question - In adidtion to tiling the shower, I plan on tiling a half wall throughout the entire bathroom about 4' high. My intention was to use durock in the shower and greenboard everywhere else in the bath. However i was told today by someone at USG that I should use durock on the half wall as well since greenboard (or anything with a paper backing) can delaminate and compromise the tile. do you agree with that or are they just trying to sell me the more expensive product?
+Joseph Russo No. You will need to build the showerpan either on top of a bladder or build the pan then put the membrane on top of the pan to waterproof that way. There is really a ton of info to explain and it would be better to watch. Just go to my website so thats how you do that and I have videos there that you can watch. There is a link in the description or on my channel that you can use to get there.
+Joseph Russo Nope not at all. If you want to give it more support then go right ahead. I would consider using a membrane on top of the pan instead of using a bladder. Much easier, cleaner, it provides an anti fracture for the tile and it prevents mold and mildew.
For labor? if yes than it also depends if it's floors or walls. You should charge anywhere between $3 a sq ft to $6 a sq ft.( and even HIGHER) It also depends where in the country you are. I charge higher rates, it really doesn't matter to me what other guys are getting.But the prices I mention above seem to be standard.
