I tried this with mortar and once it dried you can just rub the mortar off of the backer board completely with your hand. Is this normal or should I have used a modified thinset?
When you have tape with less than adequate adhesive (I taped the joints, but when I returned a few minutes later, half of the tape was lying on the shower floor!) A friend who was a drywaller suggested I use some spray corner adhesive for drywall. I sprayed it on, let it get tacky and the tape stuck!!! Crappy tape at HD. Both rolls I tried were brand new!
Hi Joe. I really appreciate your no-hype tips and common sense approach to teaching these techniques. It's not rocket science but definitely requires demonstration and practice. Words don't teach as they say. No two jobs are ever the same, is that right?
I agree with Jason Silva. This is the best video I've seen. The guys told me to use corner bead but I just couldn't make sense of it. Do all that work and then have rusted corner bead.
Hi Joe/Joel? Sorry didn't quite catch your name. Thanks for the video. I have hung my cement board unfortunately I have a small area in the corner where I have not made it quite square. There is a gap almost 1/4 inch. Can I prefill this with quick set then tape over and mud again? Or I need to take it down and redo it? I will also be using liquid membrane with mesh fabric over the corners.
I just can't imagine how this could have been done any better. Stressing that a "divot" is better than a hump is so key. I was also thinking about how to transition 1/2" green board into .42" Hardie Board and extending the Greenboard beyond the tile line makes all the sense in the world. A+ piece here!
From one believer to another, thank you for a very well done video that is helping me through my bathroom renovation. Keep up the good work, love the witnessing in your videos.
I've always used the red guard to tape ( fiberglass mesh) an bed all joints instead of thinset gives the walls the ability to flex without cracking joints.
So what if I'm only having to do 3 ft.up from a soaking tub and then I have a shelf at either end due to our plumber putting our drain in the wrong place.
Do you tape an inside corner where cement board meets drywall or just let the tile hide the joint? If you do tape do you thinset one side and drywall compound the other?
getting psyched up to do this in my wife's bathroom.. started off as "would you please recaulk the tile in the tub?" and turned out totally gutting the bathroom, removing 1975 linen closet and throwaway hall closet to expand the room.. now tiling floor to ceiling, installing new counters, sink, mirrors, floor tile, soaker-freestanding tub, and on and on.. had to do lots of rewiring, new plumbing (sigh). and we live out in the country far enough that finding someone to do the work is next to impossible and twice as expensive. So, despite years of construction experience, never liked floating and never worked with thinset, so been putting this off. After seeing your video, it almost looks like fun! Thanks for your video, and using your phone, the video quality was just fine. New Sub! Thanks,again.
Hi jack. Thanks for making this vdo for showing the tricks. Appreciate if you can make and post more and more vdos on cement board projects. Since there are very few vdos on the internet. It helps us the people like me.
Thank you. So, alkalai resistant fiba-tape for the joints, right? I'm still trying to find the right thinset. I read that the cementboard needs a modified thinset that meets certain standards. I think it means it has latex or something added. Question: What if I am not doing tile? I plan to use a glue-up fiberglass wall set over an existing tub. The wall set will not go up as high as the board so I want to paint over any portions that stick up above the wall set. Any suggestions on that front? Should I put cementboard all the way to the ceiling or let it terminate at 5' above the tub? My wall panels only go up about 54" so there will be about 6" of cementboard above. Also, how would you handle corners that go from cementboard on one side to printed plywood on the other? I will probably cover the corners with some sort of trim, but I want to make sure the cementboard edge won't crumble.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat Its thin glue-up surround and I have to glue it to the cementboard but I also need to fully span the studs and get to the end of the alcove since I will be removing the existing plywood panels. although, I suppose I could leave some portion of the plywood panels, but I would still need to bridge from cementboard to plywood. The panels are probably not the same thickness as the cementboard. This bathroom was made by idiots who put carpet in the bathrooms, cut entirely through the joist under the tub for the trap, and had non-waterproof plywood surrounding the tub.
Thanks for taking the time to post your videos. Clean, clear info for us weekend warriors. We're at this stage now; hung the last cement board last night and ready to tape/mud. Curious... we took cement board up and will tile to ceiling (existing sheetrock). I assume we use the same cement board tape for the ceiling joints, but use drywall mud instead of thinset?
About to tackle my first cement board taping and thin-setting. Your video was super helpful and gives me hope! 😆. I'll be looking at more of your videos for sure as I go along in this project - thank you!!!!
So can I use Easysand90 (or any other setting mud) for the cement board to sheetrock transition as long as I use a roll on waterproofing membrane within the spray zone?
Is that a cement board approved mesh tape? It’s supposed to be gray. The regular mesh tape will fall apart because the acid in the cement board will eat it away.
Great presentation. I'm in middle of doing this now and this cleared up what direction I need to go. I was thinking originally running loctite polyurethane sealant on inside joints for expansion and contraction in a very old house on post and pier. I have shored up floor as I added alot of weight with mortar bed under acrylic pan. I added studs and 3/4 ply to single wall construction to beef up. I think thinset and mesh tape will be good for filling seams and screws prior to waterproofing.
@@SoThatsHowYouDoThat I really appreciate your response. Thank your so much. Do you have a recommendation for thinset to use? Or what you normally buy? Just curious as to what other use
Thank you so much! I love that there is grace when doing this! I have a question, I did my thinset on my tape but after it’s dried there are little “holes” from the tape. It’s like the cement dried and it’s under the tape and the holes on the tape are showing through, but you can see the concrete set under it. I think I mixed my thinset a little too thin... Should I do another coat of thinset or will my red guard take care of these small holes?
Great video. I’m learning a bunch. Thank you. I’m building my tub surround with Hardie backer. Does it matter if I use modified or unmodified thinset when I tape and fill the seams? I’m planning to use Aqua Defense as the waterproof membrane.
Depends on the hardie backer , look in the pdf of the specific board instructions. Either will blend to the drywall ok, just make sure it is the right thinset for that kid of board. If not, then you can’t get a good stick. I used the hydrodefense board, and Custom Building Products FlexBond mortar bc it works with the board & is more flexible when dried so I won’t get as much cracking. Good for changing environments, best out there
On another of your videos, I think you used the HydroBan membrane to tape the inside corners - why did you choose to use thinset on the inside corners here instead? I'm about to put up the concrete board and do this myself... thanks, your videos are VERY helpful.
